Kanger OCC Rebuilding

[Deathscythe]

So I've watched how to recoil and rewick the factory Kanger OCC heads and I'm getting extremely frustrated when doing it myself and was looking for a little guidance.

I started by using the Steamengine App to get an idea of where to start and have run several different variants of coils. I started with 26g Kanthal at 5 wraps and ended up between .9 and 1.1 ohms. I'm trying to reach .5 ohms when rebuilding. So I went to 24g kanthal at both 4 and 5 wraps and they come out at .1 ohms when Steamengine says it should be .5. So I split the difference and tried 25g Kanthal at 4 and 5 wraps which land it around .7 to .8 ohms consistently. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Is it possible the 24g is touching somewhere and shorting out giving me the .1 ohm reading?

Also, once I got a head to hit .6 so I went ahead and re wicked it with some organic Japanese cotton. With the stock heads I can take 3 to 4 full 6 second or longer pulls sequentially without a problem. When I used mine I couldn't get more than 1 or 2 2 second pulls without it burning and ruining the cotton. I'm using 75/25 vg/pg, is it possibly too much or not enough cotton?

Thanks for any feedback, this has been driving me nuts for something that seems like it should be so simple.

 

[State O' Flux]

So many directions at once... but no mention of wattage applied to the various resistances. Wattage is a critical value that, like wire gauge, net resistance and coil count in parallel... without it, you can't calculate heat flux and heat capacity.

 

[Psofos]

24g 5 wraps should get you at 0.6. Standard coils use 24g. It must be shorting somewher in your coil. Maybe the leg that comes at the bottom,at the rubber grommet. That was my main source of odd readings on the aerotank i used to rebuild. When it shorted in the chamber it read 0.0 ohms. 0.1 and such low readings mean the wire is not cut flat at the bottom outside the coil or the rubber grommet teared from inside.

 

[Deathscythe]

To answer the first response, I usually run at 20 watts. That seems to be a good sweet spot for me.
To the second response, do you think I could be being too aggressive when bending the legs out at the base/pin? Maybe making the legs touch on the inside of the shell?

As far as the wick, I e heard that less is more. Maybe I'm using too much cotton?
On a side note, it appears to me that when Kanger assembles the heads that they are wicked before to cap is pressed on.

 

[Psofos]

I just did a rebuild on the occ head. Did not remove the top cap. Used 26g kanthal on 3mm screwdriver 5/6 wraps 0.8 ohms read on the istick 50w. I used a 5mm wide strip of an organic cotton pad. Rolled in coil nicely and cut 2mm outside the side hole. Dropped 1 drop on each side and gently pushed it in the holes so it would come flush to the side. Easiest rebuild ever,no dry hits on 75% vg. Flavour is a bit less than on the 0.5 ohm build on the rba,but still very nice vape.