Kanger protank - disappointed.....

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boshans

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I dunno I just tried the cheesecloth one again and it it STILL burnt tasting...I would make sure the kind of cheesecloth you have is white cotton, the one i have is tannish/brown...it says all natural blah blah blah, but it just sucks...if that happens to you try cotton balls, that one worked great for me at least.
 

NatashaR

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I have many. From 3 different vendors, and none have exhibited a problem.

When I read people having problems with these I attribute it to user error. These things do not leak, any vaper should know how to rebuild an atomizer head if the draw is too airy (or swap it out with an Evod head if they can't).

No need to play with my rbas at all, these produce plenty of taste and vapor on rebuilt cotton wicks at 1.6 to 1.8 ohms. On the stock 2.5 ohm heads if the gnurled bottom is screwed on TIGHTLY and placed on a FLAT TOP mod there is no airy draw whatsoever.

If you seem to get too airy a draw just COMPENSATE don't whine.
:facepalm:

THIS! FYI to those who have coils "out of the box" that are problematic... out of 12 tanks and probably 25 replacement heads (that I have USED so far), I have had 2 coil units that were DOA and 1 coil unit that "burned" no matter what I did. And I threw them in the trash. These products are not perfect and they are not immune to poor quality control. SOME of them are going to be DEFUNCT. Try another coil unit. It's a mass manufactured product. EVERY ONE IS NOT going to be perfect.
Contact the supplier if you have issues, as many of the suppliers ARE offering replacements for problematic issues.
 

LoriP1702

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I am HAPPY, HAPPY, HAPPY with mine too!! :vapor:

I've been using it since Friday, and I really do love it. Here is my take, but it's only my experience and :2c:, (be kind, I'm still a noob...LOL)

I have experienced a few of the issues the others have posted, but I think it must be user error on my part, or quality control.
Mine will start to seep (only a tiny bit) if the e-liquid level gets below 1/3, but only if/when I'm chain vaping at that level. So, I'm thinking that possibly the juice and the threaded areas are getting hot enough to allow a bit of seeping.

When it seeped the first time, I ran the coil unit under hot water, blew it out, and dried with a paper towel and let it air dry overnight.

Then when the second one seeped, I did the same thing, and put the first head back in (no seeping), until the fluid level reached below 1/3. So that is what leads me to believe it's something I'm doing to make the conditions "just right" for it to seep, or the one that seeped first would have seeped again as soon as I put it back in the tank. In other words, I think if it were defective, they would continue to seep, all the time.:blink:

The airy vape I think is just personal preference. Everyone is comparing to what they've tried previously. I didn't like it at first, but now I LOVE it....buy hey, I'm leaving standard cartridges....and while they've been fine for me for months.....they have their own set of issues too. I think all devices have some sort of quirk, or needed trick.....

ANYHOODLES, just my opinion, your milage may vary.........:oops:

Vape on y'all....:p
 

Red_Bird

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China often has minors working for low wages. So knowing this I expect there to be a few badly coiled atomizers, but they are rebuilt so easily.

If you don't know how watch PBusardo's video on HOW TO REBUILD A VIVI NOVA...The Kangers are rebuilt in the same exact way, the area in which you have to work is a tad smaller but everybody CAN do it. It might take 2 tries at first, but once u build your first succesful atty head its a feeling of accomplishment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6_b-uUKVJg

TEMCO sells 100 foot spools of Kanthal 28, 29, 30, 32 or 34 gauge wire for $9.00 or less (you only need a 2 to 3 inch piece for kanger rebuilds)

AMAZON you can find large bundles of 2 to 3 mm 100% cotton wick for $6 or so. (For kanger t3's, evods, pro tanks) you need about AN INCH of wick....bottom coiled clearos/tanks use tiny wicks.

I have found 32 gauge kanthal and 2.5mm or 3mm cotton BEST for Kanger + Vivi Nova rebuilding, myself.

A lifetime supply almost of atomizers for $20, lol. (BOIL cotton wicking material 15 minutes + let it dry, fast burn on kanthal wire before use is best)
 
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LazyBulldogge

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I'm now so converted, that I today received another Protank for the eVic, plus an EVOD to go with my Spinner battery :D

Edit: And yup, the Protank coils are easily rebuilt. So far I've just used 4x1mm silica and 6 wraps of Kanthal D 0.2mm, for a 2.3-2.4 Ohm coil. No flavor wicks, just 4x1mm silica inside the coil. Tip for that: Don't cut 4 pieces of silica, just cut 1, and fold it into 4x1, otherwise it'll dissolve when wrapping the coil :D
 
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LazyBulldogge

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That I was, that I was. Decided "screw this, I've paid a good amount of money (for the first tank at least), I owe it to myself to give it a thorough testing", so I did and I ended up loving the airy draw and the cool vape.
Plus I found out that once I unscrewed the eVic top cap to make a tight connection to the base of the Protank, it got rid of a lot of the noise I was initially complaining about :)
Rebuilt coil seems to silence it a bit too, so I might go about rebuilding the remaining coils next, rather than wearing the stock setup out first.
 

EddieAdams

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That I was, that I was. Decided "screw this, I've paid a good amount of money (for the first tank at least), I owe it to myself to give it a thorough testing", so I did and I ended up loving the airy draw and the cool vape.
Plus I found out that once I unscrewed the eVic top cap to make a tight connection to the base of the Protank, it got rid of a lot of the noise I was initially complaining about :)
Rebuilt coil seems to silence it a bit too, so I might go about rebuilding the remaining coils next, rather than wearing the stock setup out first.
That's what I do. I don't bother with the stock heads anymore.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tanks/404174-evod-protank-head-rebuild.html
Try it. Example of a better coil at the end. Couldn't edit initial post. It's great for natural wick material..
 

VClouds

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Coming from an eGo-T tank it took a bit for me to adapt to the greater air flow of the pro tank too.

For those that still don't like the air flow here are a couple of things to try.

1. Use a piece of sewing thread and make 2-3 wraps just above the threads. Use a single knot at first to see if the air flow it how you want it and adjust accordingly. When you are satisfied just double knot it and cut off lose ends. Fast easy and non-permanent fix for any similar tank with too much air flow.

2. When we started vaping we all had to learn how to draw in the vapor in a much slower fashion than with analogs. For me just slightly revising that and drawing even slower was all it took to solve the air flow issues and get the ton of vapor I was craving.


As for the seeping or leaking problems. I thought I had a problem but after a closer look found that it was just how things work in a bottom coil system. The coil sits right in the air pathway just a very short distance above the battery pin on the pv. What I observed was 2 things that made it seem like I had a leaking problem.

First was just condensation of vapor. After cleaning the top of my vamo and checking every few vapes I could see the slow accumulation of condensation on the top of the connection pin. If I drew a little faster (slightly more air flow) the problem almost disappeared.

The second thing I noticed was if I had the wattage up too high where I could hear a lot of popping some of the droplets from the coil (so close to the bottom) actually landed on the battery pin again.

So by adjusting my wattage and speed of my vapor draw I managed to correct both problems for the most part. Still get a little bit of condensation on the pin but not really any different than an eGo-T tank so I'm happy with it.

The only real problem I've had with the pro tank is I broke the threads off my first one the very first week I had it (cry cry). Can't really complain as I DID drop it on my toe while standing up, the weight of the vamo didn't help either (ouch). I would like to see the base section made from something a bit stronger as with the vent holes, air path, and threads all in that one section the brass is awfully thin and weak.
 

VAPN STUF

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Dont sell it just yet!

Try plugging some of the air holes to help the draw. I took a piece of teflon tape, cut a strip off about 2mm wide and 3/4 inch long, and then wrapped it around all the air holes sealing them shut. Then took a safety pin and pushed it through 2 of the holes. Its draw is perfect for me now.

As for flavor, I am getting great flavor out of it with just one of the flavor wicks removed. I didnt try it with them in since everyone talked about doing that, so I did it from the start. But you may be getting less flavor solely cause the draw is so airy and you are thus getting a lower vapor/air ratio. Try this method and then see how you like it...

I was thoroughly enjoying my pro tank since last Saturday, until today when I started getting unpleasant burnt vapes! I removed one of the wicks and presto, working better than ever!!
 

ElectricalSocket

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i was going to try it but having second thought now
If you want it to be perfect right out of the box and work EXACTLY how YOU like it, then yes don't buy it.

The thing is, everyone has different preferences, and different preferences sometimes produce unique problems as well.

It is extremely easy to replace the stock wicks with a cottonball wick and have NO issues. People are having problems because of the silica wicks and airflow preferences. Take out a flavor wick, there is a hole left on both sides the size of the wick. If you use cotton, it expands to fill any gaps. You could spend 15 min changing the wick to cotton and adjusting the airflow to your liking. The flavor is amazing. No off-gassing plastics!
 

Alexander Mundy

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If you want it to be perfect right out of the box and work EXACTLY how YOU like it, then yes don't buy it.

The thing is, everyone has different preferences, and different preferences sometimes produce unique problems as well.

It is extremely easy to replace the stock wicks with a cottonball wick and have NO issues. People are having problems because of the silica wicks and airflow preferences. Take out a flavor wick, there is a hole left on both sides the size of the wick. If you use cotton, it expands to fill any gaps. You could spend 15 min changing the wick to cotton and adjusting the airflow to your liking. The flavor is amazing. No off-gassing plastics!

Amen to that!

There is a learning curve, however I love my Protanks (and MT3s are much better) after re-wicking with cotton ball and closing up some of the draftiness.
 

ElectricalSocket

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Get this:

Yesterday my son and I were outside in the driveway. Son is 5. I have Protank+eGo battery laying on open truck tailgate.

Son asks "can I get in the bed?!". I turn around to say "ok just let me get my cig", but before I can finish "just" and walk 5 feet over to grab it....son makes random sporadic arm movement that sends it flying. *Too much energy!*

So, it lands on the concrete and I flip out. Angry...sad...mainly upset that I was 2 seconds away from saving it. Go inside and dump juice. Rinse it out and dry it. Hold it up to light, obviously scratched up some. Fill with water, put together, wrap toilet paper tightly around it, tape it.

30 min later: Happy! Dry toilet paper. I'm assuming micro cracks can/will get larger with time and temperature changes though. Most likely it will be fine until another, better device comes out (a couple weeks, right? lol).

Better materials=Worth it.
 

LoriP1702

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The only real problem I've had with the pro tank is I broke the threads off my first one the very first week I had it (cry cry). Can't really complain as I DID drop it on my toe while standing up, the weight of the vamo didn't help either (ouch). I would like to see the base section made from something a bit stronger as with the vent holes, air path, and threads all in that one section the brass is awfully thin and weak.

If you kept the glass tank, Sun-Vapors has the base listed in the "replacement parts" section at their website....:)
 
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