Kanger protank rebuild

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f1vefour

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As you can see from the first post the OP used 32g kanthal and 3mm silica wick and it worked for them.

Personally I would use 1.5mm or 2mm silica. Build a coil with what you have and see what you think about it.

Mac is a coil building perfectionist (and knows his stuff), heed his advice but forge your own path.

You know you can use cotton or hemp yarn as wick as well since you can't handle raw cotton. People have had great luck with peaches and cream cotton yarn (may be called Peaches & Cream).

To wick with silica after a coil build you can wrap the end with an extra piece of kanthal and feed the wire through the coil and pull the silica through with the wire.
 
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STiZzle2010

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I'm thinking I am going to try it at least as it has already been ordered and it's on the way. Kind of too late now. Worst that happens is the tank floods and I know it won't work, right.

I will read through the information mac provided and try to grasp a better understanding on how this all works. I just want to enjoy these tanks...

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MacTechVpr

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As you can see from the first post the OP used 32g kanthal and 3mm silica wick and it worked for them.

Personally I would use 1.5mm or 2mm silica. Build a coil with what you have and see what you think about it.

Mac is a coil building perfectionist (and knows his stuff), heed his advice but forge your own path.

You know you can use cotton or hemp yarn as wick as well since you can't handle raw cotton. People have had great luck with peaches and cream cotton yarn (may be called Peaches & Cream).

To wick with silica after a coil build you can wrap the end with an extra piece of kanthal and feed the wire through the coil and pull the silica through with the wire.

I'm thinking I am going to try it at least as it has already been ordered and it's on the way. Kind of too late now. Worst that happens is the tank floods and I know it won't work, right.

I will read through the information mac provided and try to grasp a better understanding on how this all works. I just want to enjoy these tanks...

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Thank you both for your confidence…but hardly perfect so...prove all things! In fact, I'm counting on you.

No, what f1ve said stir. You can definitely use that 32g, and you should. A lot of folks on the KPT move to 30 or higher for the durability. And also for the power handling of the higher gauges. You can put more turns on the wick for a given resistance and so max out the surface area for vaporization (more wick contact). I find threading 32g a bit of a delicate affair at times with finicky media (some times less turns are better). I'm working through 31 now and it has some nice attributes. But really the main benefit of gauges for our purposes is to be able to hit resistance/temperature targets with precision and to accommodate the power capacities of your device. Finding that working zone or spot is the adventure. Have at it. Have fun. Come back and let us know when you hit it good!

Good luck.

:)
 

MacTechVpr

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glycerol

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Are you talking about running the wick into the tank?
Yeah, even that.

Good morning glycerol, responding to you on this thread so you may have a chance to review some of the related conversation. Yes, this technique does apparently seem to work in stemming some of the leaking past the coil head flange into the 510 socket. It does also seem to result in somewhat of a more airy and fuller vape. I would try anything in the channels, fill them completely, with the same or alternative wicking media. It makes it a bit more tedious to clean as they probably will come out or have to come out if you clean as per the wick flushing suggestion I provide for prolonging coil life.

Some time ago I experimented with this solution using silica, cotton and Ekowool. I believed that putting a bend in the wick tended to impede wicking. I was trying to address flooding issues but in the end got less flow and dry hits. So first flood then dry. I gave up on the idea but it definitely seems to work. On this particular build, taken down multiple times and rebuilt (fully reassembled) once with the same coil and the channel wicks it is vaping exceptionally well.

So I would go ahead and try any wick media, recommend it.

Good luck!
Thanks man, will try leaving 3 mm extra wick on each side today to see what will happen.
 

STiZzle2010

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Just build my first coil! Not the best picture quality (using camera phone) but how did I do? I have tried vaping with it yet as I am still finishing a tank. I did add a flavor wick as I am scared to flood...

EDIT: Just tried it out and it seems to be vaping very well! Taste is good, vapor is good, no dry hits, and no flooding! So happy! I do notice it crackles a bit louder but this doesn't bother me.

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f1vefour

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Just build my first coil! Not the best picture quality (using camera phone) but how did I do? I have tried vaping with it yet as I am still finishing a tank. I did add a flavor wick as I am scared to flood...

EDIT: Just tried it out and it seems to be vaping very well! Taste is good, vapor is good, no dry hits, and no flooding! So happy! I do notice it crackles a bit louder but this doesn't bother me.

Congratulations, I had a feeling you were going to be okay with the supplies you ordered.
 

f1vefour

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Well I rebuild 4 total. 2 came to 2.0ohms, 1 was 2.1ohms, and 1 was 1.8ohms. Consistency will take some practice. I do notice that when using the 2.1ohm the base of my tank gets pretty warm and this doesn't happen with the others. Is this normal?

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Probably has a hot leg.
 

MacTechVpr

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Well I rebuild 4 total. 2 came to 2.0ohms, 1 was 2.1ohms, and 1 was 1.8ohms. Consistency will take some practice. I do notice that when using the 2.1ohm the base of my tank gets pretty warm and this doesn't happen with the others. Is this normal?

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Probably has a hot leg.

The length of wire determines your resistance. Wind around the same thing and the same length you get the same resistance. Wind it tighter and you get closer to the same every time. Hand wind around a soggy silica rope that's not the same size from two different places…it just ain't gonna happen fella's.

Just sayin'.

Good luck (but good effort first few tries stir).

:)
 

MacTechVpr

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Ah makes sense. I did wrap as tight as I could and used a 1/16th drill bit. I will try to be more consistent with the wrapping that way I can stay at 2.0ohms.

What is a hot leg and is this bad? Should I not use this head and rebuild it?

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I know you probably don't have one yet (a 1/16" miniature screwdriver or similar). And it's great that you started. That's what I'd hoped, that you'd jump in and try and get one of those guys installed. And hey, the faster that we observe the problems that happen with hand-over-hand winding using the wick as a guide and realize it the better. There's people right here on this forum still hand wrapping after years, suffering the consequences to their lungs and psyche from their equipment not working the way it was designed to work. Why, I asked myself? Well we're communal, a group animal…and we tend to do things that way that most folks around us do. The most natural thing in the world. But it's not always the best for us, for you. I'd like to see you have that opportunity, to see what works best and get it.

So look, I think within a couple'a three days if you start winding around a drill bit, better still an instrument screwdriver with tension, you'll be seeing coils that are straight as rails. That'll stay together well enough to even try pokin' silica through 'em. Odd's are they have what you need at a dollar store or pharm near you. And that's really all it takes. If you got wire on a cardboard put it on a bobbin or anything round you can spool it on to keep as much kink or bend out of the wire. And have at it. You'll be thankin' me, I know it, once you vape the thing and see the difference. And you will because…

Electrons follow the path of least resistance, like water, current reaches out for the easiest place to go. A hot leg, is often a loose turn in the coil, usually on the end. It's separate from the rest and it becomes a narrow obstacle. When it was joined with the other turns it was like a big broad plain and current could flow easily across it. But when it's got to go through this separate little wire it bogs like a traffic jam and gets hot as hell, far hotter than the rest of the coil. The rest of the coil may be soggy and even leak, yet the hot leg burns and scorches.

Nobody, I mean nobody, can wind with the precision to avoid them consistently. I don't believe it. Can't happen. The material we're winding on very often isn't itself. Even when we make microcoils. The imperfections aren't usually evident to the naked eye. But we can overcome that second source of hot legs and shorts — with tension. When coil turns are made to adhere with tension they develop metal memory like the torsioned spring on a screen door. That contact is more easily maintained, even with handling like wicking in place after installation.

That's the coil I'd like to see you make and try. Because I have good reason to believe it will be far more satisfying and less error prone than what we usually start out with in a hand wind. I've done a few of these myself, just like you. And your's was good, very good for a first try. So I have little doubt you can do what I'm talkin' about.

Then let us know what you think, will you stiz?

Good luck.

:)
 
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STiZzle2010

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I decided to rebuild the coil as I did not like the idea of the hot legs and the possibility of melting the rubber grommet. This time I was successful without any hot legs.

I am using a 1/16th drill bit to wrap the kanthal around and I keep the coil wrapped around the bit until I get it seated. Once I clip the leftover kanthal, I remove the drill bit and I connect to my iTaste to check the ohms and do a test fire to check for any hot spots. Once everything is good, I thread some cotton through the coil and I also add some cotton as a flavor wick. Reassemble and vape.

So far I have been successful with the exception of the hot legs. I have not experienced any shorts and I am getting better at a consistent 2.0ohm coil with a 5/4 wrap. I am so happy I decided to learn to rebuild and now I absolutely love my MPT2'S! Thanks guys!



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