It's about temperature (watts) breid. You want to find the right temperature for the juice you like. What brings out the best of its flavor and vapor. The resistance you select determines what's required as answers to your questions. Once you decide on a starting point, I suggest 2.2Ω as a reasonable center-point then you know what coil diameter you'll need. I post wind
results tables in the
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html thread. There you'll see that you can use 1/16" and 1.75mm (approx). as a coil diameter to reach 2.2Ω resistance. Nice light fast firing and energy efficient coil wind. It's not as durable as 31, 30 or 29 but you can achieve similar vaping results with the TEMCO 32 you're getting
Using a large diameter like 3mm may be fine for a hand wind but it's not efficient. It's susceptible to shorts because it can't be stabilized. It's irregular and so will the coil be you wind on it. Turns that don't conform to the wick get very hot where contact is lost and the wetness of the wick does not cool it. This junks up the coil. You get increasingly a worsening vape, and yes, flooding. So win a clearo. Generally the bigger the wick the more power you can apply and theoretically more vapor (and possibly flavor). But what good is filling up the slot in a clearo if your vape is bad and wet? No there is little advantage in a clearo.
In Protanks and most clearos the width of the slot is only 1.8mm so that limits the coil size. Why? Because you can't keep the coil on the bit or screwdriver shank as you drop it into the assembly. You really want to do that as you want to use the screwdriver to help stabilize the coil during installation so it isn't distorted. If it is skewed or turns altered in shape you get the above…bad vape and flood again. If you can't stabilize it it's harder to terminate the leads at the post on the bottom, again bad vape. This thread really is very helpful in demonstrating what's needed.
So I would recommend a .07" (roughly 1.8mm or sometimes called 3/43") screwdriver. This will allow you to wind with hand tension and get a near perfect coil from the beginning. You won't need to torch it, scrunch it, etc. Just keep it on the drill bit, set it at the bottom of the slot and terminate the leads as best as possible in the direction that they exit the coil (not touching each other or the walls of the assembly). Once installed and before you wick it, you can put it on a mod and dry fire it. This completes the process of completing the coil by oxidizing it's surface. I'm sure you've seen the videos of how it lights up from the center. And it will, usually the first time if you've used enough tension. It gets much easier with practice.
Don't hesitate to throw out the effort if it doesn't look perfect. It takes minutes to do it again. Hours if fiddling if you try to wrestle a bad coil or set to make it work. It won't. Ever.
For the wick, it's hard. Cotton is easy to introduce but hard to get the balance of density and you must use a flavor wick. There's Nextel XC-132 my current favorite for clearo's and most tanks. It's the closest to cotton and the most neutral synthetic but it's expensive. It will however potentially last months, at least many weeks of rewashing once installed in the coil. It's seconds to thread it. Ekowool is good too but much more difficult to thread 1.5mm Eko into 1/16 than you may imagine. Silica is practically impossible to thread but it can be done with patience. Try each. Decide what works for you in effort and flavor result. Then decide which coil size you prefer as you test the options.
This will be a few weeks of practice, trial and error. But not the months I've seen so many go through. You will have a huge advantage if you start by making a contact microcoil with tension. It will be as perfect as some of the photos you've probably seen with very little effort. And it will be durable. My Nextel wicks last now about two weeks with the "blow out" refill maintenance I use. I soak them in a pyrex glass with hot water. Reinstall in a base and dry burn them, reinstall and go. Some of those coil assemblies last many weeks.
Basically this is a starting point. I hope I've answered most of your questions. LMK how you make out and if you need help.
Good luck.
