Kanger Subtank Mini clear insulator melted to my RBA!

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JC87

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Feb 4, 2015
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Also, what is the resistance on the build you typically in it? I wonder if running a low resistance coil, raised as high as possible off the deck, along with low wattage would help with insulator failures?

I used the factory installed coil in the rba so I didn't have time to try any custom builds before the insulator gave out, but the factory coil was running at a stable .6 ohms until the insulator failed (on an istick30 watt)
 

RiceBurner95

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I used the factory installed coil in the rba so I didn't have time to try any custom builds before the insulator gave out, but the factory coil was running at a stable .6 ohms until the insulator failed (on an istick30 watt)

How long did it take to fail? I'm guessing pretty quickly if you never had a chance to rebuild it. I really hope they figure this out and find a permanent fix for it, because I really bought this for the RBA portion. Though after reading about the OCC coils, they don't seem so bad. Pretty easy to rebuild, and good flavor and vapor.
 

JC87

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UPDATE in regards to the brown insulators

This is hearsay, but a user on another forum has informed me that there are multiple version of each subtank RDA deck. Here is his post

I think it's crucial that people be aware there are MULTIPLE versions of every ....ty part for these tanks. I love my subtank, but seriously Kangertech, come on:

V1 25mm RBA: ....tty white insulator, half-drilled juice channels
V2 25mm RBA: Clear insulator, juice channels drilled vertically the rest of the way to the base of the RBA
V3 25mm RBA: Clear insulator, Larger Air hole, fully-drilled juice channels
V1 Mini RBA: White insulator, half-drilled juice channels
V2 Mini RBA: Clear insulator, half-drilled juice channels
V3 Mini RBA: Clear insulator, fully drilled juice channels to the base of the RBA

These are not official version numbers, just my chronological numbering as I've followed the releases since getting my V1 25mm Subtank, replacing the insulators with the PEEK beige ones, and watching people who ordered later get better stuff.

So the brown insulators might be for version 1 and 2 of the original subtank RBA. That being said, I have heard from another user that Kanger is developing a 4th insulator edition because of all of the issues with the clear insulator. I have not seen these yet though, but it would make sense to me. Kanger has been sending out brown insulators to people who have informed them they had a subtank mini, so I have no idea. Some people have gotten them to fit, some havent.

I also find it strange they are selling brown insulators for the original subtanks, yet were previously releasing the tanks with clear insulators. I wonder if all new versions will come with the updated brown versions. I would hope so.
 
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JC87

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Feb 4, 2015
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Yeah, at this point I've done all I can trying to get service from them, which is a shame because I really liked Kanger. Now Im just trying to inform as many other users with subtank minis as possible so they don't have to go through the mess I have or potentially harm themselves if they are using unprotected batteries.

I haven't given up hope, but right now I kinda have my eye on the Delta II and the Goblin RTA since Kanger has given me the run around.
 

RiceBurner95

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I was tempted by the Delta II as well. I'm just not sure about airflow. I got the subtank mini mainly for its huge airflow. I did have my eye on the Lemo, but after a friend got it and I felt how restrictive the draw was, I couldn't do it. I like open lung hits with minimal restriction. Even though people claimed the Lemo was open and flowed well, I thought it felt like drawing through a coffee stir straw.
 
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JC87

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Feb 4, 2015
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Yeah I feel the same way about the lemo. Keep your eye on the goblin, it looks to be the best dedicated RTA, its just impossible to find right now but should be around soon from what I hear

The delta II seemed to have good airflow when I tried one (using the prebuilt coils), I just dont like how they sell the RBA separately, and the tank portion itself looks harder to clean than the mini.
 

ckquatt

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I admit I haven't read through all the pages of the many threads about this insulator problem but as I want to get the mini in the next couple of weeks (I know I need to make sure it has the new insulator in it). My question is what juice were you using in it? You may have already said, I just didn't see it.

I was just skimming through the posts looking for updates.

Thanks!

Sent from my Atari 2600 using Tapatalk
 

ckquatt

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Gotcha! While reading I saw Pluid come up a couple of times but I realized it was the guy on the YT vid (who took the video down!) I was about to say! Pluid is my ADV and it disolves the wood stain of my cabinet if I leave a drop on there to long! Its no wonder why his melted! LOL!

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inspects

Squonkamaniac
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Please do, and if anything comes up, please post picture and let others know! That being said, I hope you dont encounter any issues. It seems some users are having problems and others arent. Having said that, I wouldn't want to take a gamble and have a tank ruined the way mine was.

JC,

I have a total of ten Kanger Subtank mini's....this afternoon I disassembled every rebuildable, none have any gaps in the clear plastic like shown in other pictures I've seen.

Do you know if these pictures taken after usage, or prior?
 

JC87

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I cant say for sure unfortunately. Though I have think its safe to assume people weren't just blatantly mis-aligning their insulators. I think this comes down to quality control. It seems some units are just fine while others have slipped through the cracks. Guess some of us just got unlucky and are now left to deal with it on our own :(
 

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Squonkamaniac
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I cant say for sure unfortunately. Though I have think its safe to assume people weren't just blatantly mis-aligning their insulators. I think this comes down to quality control. It seems some units are just fine while others have slipped through the cracks. Guess some of us just got unlucky and are now left to deal with it on our own :(

JC...Reason I ask....I'm wondering if heat is causing the insulator to shrink?

Which is why I wanted to know if the pictures of gaps are taken after use, or prior.
 

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Squonkamaniac
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I think that is a sound theory. Unfortunately I am unable to comment on it as I do not know. Its very possible the heat is causing that though. On the flip side, its also possible they are coming like that from the factory. We need more data to be sure.

I agree, I can't find who posted the picture of the deck so I can ask when the picture was taken.
 
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