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Kanger SUBTANK-MINI - help!

Discussion in 'New Members Forum' started by thejd, Nov 23, 2015.

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  1. thejd

    thejd Full Member

    Nov 23, 2015
    London, United Kingdom
    Hi guys,

    I've been vaping for just under 2 months now and thought I'd take a break from asking the guy in my local store a million and one questions and seek advice from you wonderful people instead! I started off with a Vision Spinner 2 battery and an Aspire Nautilus Mini clearomizer but exchanged the Spinner 2 for another battery due to only getting about 4.5/5hrs battery life as opposed to the promised 16+. I then started experiencing problems with my Nautilus Mini, it wasn't producing as much vapour and the flavour was nothing like it was when I first started using it! Long story short, I bought a Kanger SUBTANK-Mini only a couple of days ago - it was great at first but after having filled it up prior to going out, I was constantly getting burnt hits which not only tasted gross but freaked me out given I could see the cotton in the coil glow red! I brought it back to the store and the guy swapped the coil for another, I'm using a 1.5 Ohm coil now but am still having problems with my tank...it's leaking through the air flow control regardless of the fact that I've made sure everything's tight and as it should be and I'm not experiencing the great flavour this tank seems to be notorious for?!

    Thanks in advance for any help you guys might have. :thumbs:
     
  2. macis

    macis Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 14, 2015
    hanged on, helps on its way!
     
  3. Katmar

    Katmar Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    Sep 19, 2009
    Pittsburgh, Pa
    Bump for an answer and welcome to the forum....good luck...:)
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. djsvapour

    djsvapour ECF Guru ECF Veteran

    Oct 2, 2012
    England and Wales
    Something is very wrong, but saying that is not much help to you.

    What sort of mod are you using? What sort of power? What sort of coil (Vertical) ?

    A subtank coil head (or the cotton) should never glow red, not if it's in the tank soaking up the liquid...

    Leaks are very unusual too.... maybe you are missing a part. If you vape them 'hard' enough, there's not much chance of liquid seeping out anywhere.
     
  5. suprtrkr

    suprtrkr ECF Guru Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Yeah, a little more info, please. Regarding the leak, check the coil to make sure it's fully seated and for a missing o-ring.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  6. Tol

    Tol Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jan 2, 2011
    NY
    The Kanger 1.5 ohm OCC Vertical coils should be 10-26 watts for your power range. Like suprtrkr said, we would need a little more info on your setup and definitely check for missing o-ring on the coil itself,
     
  7. edyle

    edyle ECF Guru Verified Member ECF Veteran

    with wick is cotton, so if you burn the wick, it's gone and will leak.
     
  8. thejd

    thejd Full Member

    Nov 23, 2015
    London, United Kingdom
    I'm using a box mod, it's a U20 with a 2200mAh capacity - I know there isn't much about them online but the guy from the store has one and said they're pretty much like an iStick but more powerful as they can go to 7.6v/23w whereas the smaller iStick can't? Apparently anyway! I'm using the 1.5 Ohm OCC Vertical coil that came with my tank and am vaping on 23w...there was great flavour when I first used it with the coil that ended up giving me burnt hits but not with this one, it's really strange!
     
  9. thejd

    thejd Full Member

    Nov 23, 2015
    London, United Kingdom
    Thank you! :)
     
    • Like Like x 1
  10. djsvapour

    djsvapour ECF Guru ECF Veteran

    Oct 2, 2012
    England and Wales
    U20? Yes, that's an iStick clone.

    23 watts is pretty strong... maybe that was the problem.

    A 1.5ohm atomizer isn't the best for 15 watts or more. I'd be looking at the 0.5ohm coils for that sort of power.

    You are right, in a way, that the U20 (if it does over 20w) is better than the iStick 20w, but there are other iSticks of that size too. The 30w is a great model.

    Did you buy it all together, as I'm wondering if you have a genuine Subtank?

    No disrespect buy it all sounds a bit shady. Promising you 16 hours from a Spinner? Recommending a clone iStick over a real 30w one.... the 30w has been out for a year and is a proven piece of hardware. If you wanted to vape at 23 watts, somebody should have advised you better.

    I'm sorry, I'm not helping much.
     
  11. Tol

    Tol Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jan 2, 2011
    NY
    Yeah, even though the 1.5 ohm can do 10-26 watts, 20+ may be a bit high, I use the 1.2 ohm occ coils around 12-15 watts. If you want higher wattage you might do better with something like the iStick 30 watt or 50 watt, or maybe even their 40 watt Temp Control model (all are around the $30-40 range or less). Then you have a better range of options at least and can use the 0.5 ohm coils on the tank if you wanted to try them out. 23 watt max is a bad mod to pair with subtank, IMHO.

    Also depending on your juice, it may not be wicking fast enough at 23 watts.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. thejd

    thejd Full Member

    Nov 23, 2015
    London, United Kingdom
    The coil I was using with my Aspire Nautilus was 1.8 Ohm and I was vaping on 12.5w, I did ask the guy in the store what wattage I should use with my new tank and he said it was fine to crank it up to the highest...bearing in mind I was originally using a 1.2 Ohm coil with the Kanger tank! Still, I'm not sure why he said that if it's not usually the done thing. :/
    I bought all my kit from the same store but didn't buy it all at the same time - when I started experiencing problems with the Spinner, the guy offered me the U20 in exchange as they were both £30. I've verified the authenticity of my Subtank using the scratch code on the packaging so it's definitely genuine! Maybe I should just get myself a different mod and continue using the U20 with my Nautilus. :blink:
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. thejd

    thejd Full Member

    Nov 23, 2015
    London, United Kingdom
    And don't be silly, any information is helpful - I'm trying to learn more about vaping and kits etc so please - share your wisdom!
     
    • Like Like x 1
  14. thejd

    thejd Full Member

    Nov 23, 2015
    London, United Kingdom
    I definitely want to try the 0.5 Ohm coil out - I can't imagine how much vapour there must be given how much there was with the 1.2 coil! Can I ask why 20w+ might be a bit high given the coil can do up to 26w? I'm trying to get my head around the whole variable wattage/voltage thing, it's all rather baffling to me at the mo' so apologies if I say something silly! I'm vaping Mother's Milk by Suicide Bunny - so good! But I still don't feel like I'm getting the full flavour.
     
  15. thejd

    thejd Full Member

    Nov 23, 2015
    London, United Kingdom
    I'll be sure to check this out when I next get a chance to do so, I'm at work at the moment! Thank you, I'll be sure to report back. :)
     
    • Like Like x 1
  16. SupplyDaddy

    SupplyDaddy I'm considered a Mad Scientist in some circles! Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Oct 21, 2012
    San Antonio, Texas
    Seeing the coil glow is your first clue that you have your settings too high for the coil or you didn't pre-soak the wick. Most likely you have burnt the cotton wick.
    Also, I did not notice if you said you pre-soaked the coil/wick before using.

    So, turn down the wattage/voltage and only turn it up if you feel it's not hitting right for you.

    Other things to look for as you have a leakage issue:
    Bottom o-ring on the base may be missing/damaged
    Coil may not be seated fully
    Either or both of the o-rings holding the glass tank may be damaged or missing
    Your glass tank may be cracked (no, sometimes it is not obvious!).

    The base o-ring is normally the issue as most people don't even notice it. You may have knocked it off taking the base off to refill the tank or when you rinsed the tank out (assuming you have rinsed it out...). If you actually have a genuine Kangertech Subtank Mini, you will have replacement o-rings in the box, along with replacement glass.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  17. Tol

    Tol Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jan 2, 2011
    NY
    No need to apologize for saying silly things, I do it all the time ;)

    I found personally on the 1.2 ohm coils that at 20+ watts it started tasting burnt to me with occasional dry hits. I like the 10-15 watt range for those coils because I use them to Mouth To Lung with a small bore drip tip to restrict airflow down enough for that style of vaping for me.

    The 0.5 ohm coils are made more for Direct Lung Inhale, and they need more power to perform well. They put out a good amount of vapor and the flavor is good still. I found that personally I enjoy them at 30-35 watts and anything past 45 watts is awful to me. Also when you start cranking up wattage on your mod you need to make sure you understand the amount of current it will draw and what your batteries & mod can handle safely.

    I always start at the bottom end of power for a given coil, bump up a few watts, take a couple more, etc... Work my way up to find a happy spot that uses the least amount of power possible and still enjoyable to me.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  18. djsvapour

    djsvapour ECF Guru ECF Veteran

    Oct 2, 2012
    England and Wales
    Coil ratings tend to factor in the best circumstances, ideal liquid ratio (PG/VG), accurate mods (many are not accurate) etc.
    I would say, in general a coil rated say 15-25 watts will drop under 15 watts and still work (weak, but working, avoiding gurgles) but often not get near the top numbers.
    I just had a (rare) dry hit on a 1.2ohm Kanger OCC coil at 17 watts (in a subtank mini).
    Is that because 17 watts is close to the edge, or thick liquid or just because my Sigelei is running a little hot tonight. We never really know.
    They change the coil designs (my OCCs are 8 months old and are the 1st version, ordered in bulk from China). The new ones might go way higher but get soggy set lower.
    It was the same with Aspire BVC (Nautilus)... the early ones got twitchy at 13 or 14 watts and could burn at 14 with high VG juice. The latest BVCs (bigger holes, cotton wool) are barely hitting at all around 10 watts and I've taken them up to 16 watts.
    More liquid (faster wicking) needs more power to work best but then there's the risk of floods.
    When you rebuild atomizers getting the balance spot on is kind of tough. It's the same for the manufacturers.... got to be, I guess? :)
     
    • Like Like x 3
  19. WiSK

    WiSK Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 15, 2015
    The Netherlands
    I have no idea why they rate those coils from 10-26W. It seems very unlikely with the tiny juice flow openings and the randomly oriented cotton wick. Rule of thumb is that you should start using a coil at 3.5V and carefully adjust from there. For a simple 1.5ohm coil like in the Kanger OCC that means begin at only 8.1W (P=V^2/R). After a few hits, start increasing power slowly, search for flavour not throat hit. Don't be in a rush to vape at high power. Back down if you taste any kind of burnt cotton.

    Remember also that Mother's Milk which is high VG, 65-70% I believe, so it wicks slowly, another reason to stay on lower power or risk dry burns.


    ps. I use the 1.2ohm coils @ 12W with 50/50 juice
     
    • Like Like x 2
  20. Gahh

    Gahh Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    May 24, 2013
    Bay Shore LI NY
    If you found advice that helped, you can skip this. Although you might want to give this a try.

    If your coil is the older Horizontal version, with the thinnest pin you can find, spin into cotton gently, both sides of the coil head.
    This will allow the e-liquid to flow more freely.
    They, ( China ) make them pretty crappy. I rebuild them after 5 ml of eliquid for an optimum vape performance.
     
    • Like Like x 2
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