Sounds like you flooded it, just pull the coil and clean otu the base. I've flooded mine a couple times but had to try pretty hard to do it. I was getting dry hits and poor wicking so I started closing off the air hole and hitting it to get more juice to the coils. Under normal use it's very hard to flood.
KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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Sounds like you flooded it, just pull the coil and clean otu the base. I've flooded mine a couple times but had to try pretty hard to do it. I was getting dry hits and poor wicking so I started closing off the air hole and hitting it to get more juice to the coils. Under normal use it's very hard to flood.
Could be the heat from the vape, I noticed the same thing. Definetely a very warm vape especially if you chain vape
Thank you - I'll run the RBA for a few days to see if it improves. What's the trick to get the chimney off the RBA? - Mine is stuck. I noticed it when I went to re-wick it because it was not wicking well. I had to just pull the wick up a trim it a bit Now its wicking fine. That grip lip at the bottom of the RBA is tiny, How do you guys get a good hold on that thing????
Thanks.
JJK
Thanks! - I'll try that when I need a fresh wick. The RBA might seem a bit cooler. It works well but I bought this tank to use the OCC coils. I know most people would prefer an RBA but I would rather not deal with it. I guess that might mean I'll need to try the Delta II next
So this month I will have gone from the protank to the egrip to the egrip RBA to the subtank to the subtank RBA to the delta II
I need to stay off this site
Oh - now I need a 40 watt mod to run the delta II. I cant go back to protank / aspire nautilus mini type vapor now.. I need rebuildable performance without any rebuilding. Its coming.
Thanks! - I'll try that when I need a fresh wick. The RBA might seem a bit cooler. It works well but I bought this tank to use the OCC coils. I know most people would prefer an RBA but I would rather not deal with it. I guess that might mean I'll need to try the Delta II next
So this month I will have gone from the protank to the egrip to the egrip RBA to the subtank to the subtank RBA to the delta II
I need to stay off this site
Oh - now I need a 40 watt mod to run the delta II. I can’t go back to protank / aspire nautilus mini type vapor now.. I need rebuildable performance without any rebuilding. It’s coming.
The Atlantis has a much cooler vape
So I received my Subtank Mini on Jan 31, 2015 from myvaporstore and had been using it soley with the RBA head and the premade coil that came inside the RBA. My battery is an Istick 30watt, and I vape primarily at 25-30 watts. Unfortunately I hadn't seen any of these threads at the time about the clear insulators also being bad, and had only saw Phil Busardo's video about the original white insulators and how the clear insulators fixed the problem. My Subtank came with a clear insulator (which at the time I thought were the fixed ones), and I am sure you can tell where this is going....
The insulators melted.
My first tankfull of e-liquid on the Mini seemed fine and I was very happy, but upon refilling, I started to notice a very strange and disgusting taste. I thought at first perhaps it was my e-liquid, so I cleaned my tank thoroughly with distilled water, allowed it to dry completely, and refilled with a new e-liquid. The nasty taste persisted, and it was then that I decided to disassemble the RBA and saw that the clear insulator had melted in half and was coming apart, while the other half was fused to the metal base and into the airflow portion of the RBA.
I immediately cleaned the tank again with distilled water, let dry completely, switched to the OCC .5 ohm head and put new e-liquid in, but I could still strongly taste and smell the remnants of the burned insulator within the tank itself, as could my girlfriend and everyone who tried the tank afterwards. I thought maybe it was just my taste buds since I has cleaned out the tank and put in a new coil, so I brought the tank to my local shop and had a few friends try it out. These people were not present when the insulator melted and had no idea of the original issue until after they tasted it, but were still commenting that my vapor tasted and smelled of burnt chemicals despite the wick being fully saturated and primed correctly as I have always done.
No matter what I do, the tank now tastes terrible with whatever e-liquid or coil I put in it!
This is upsetting, because before this happened, the tank was performing perfectly and tasted amazing. I was completely satisfied with my purchase.
Ive contacted Kanger and myvaporstore but have yet to hear back from any of them. I'm hoping they make things right because I love Kanger's products and reccomend them to all my friends.
I'm having to resort to using my Aspire Atlantis (which I haven't used since I got my subtank mini and my girlfriend's subtank nano) while I wait for this issue to be resolved. Thankfully I rewicked the stock Atlantis coil with some japanese cotton so it doesnt mute the flavor as much as the silica wick did, but its still not as vibrant as the subtank's flavor was.
On a side note, my girlfriend's subtank nano has been performing perfectly and tastes great. I also wanted to say, other than the insulator being bad and messing up my tank, the tank performed great before this issue arose. Its by far my favorite out of the atlantis and the delta ii. I had no wicking issues whatsoever with the RBA and I was using 80/20 VG juice and chain vaping
The insulators melted.
My first tankfull of e-liquid on the Mini seemed fine and I was very happy, but upon refilling, I started to notice a very strange and disgusting taste. I thought at first perhaps it was my e-liquid, so I cleaned my tank thoroughly with distilled water, allowed it to dry completely, and refilled with a new e-liquid. The nasty taste persisted, and it was then that I decided to disassemble the RBA and saw that the clear insulator had melted in half and was coming apart, while the other half was fused to the metal base and into the airflow portion of the RBA.
I immediately cleaned the tank again with distilled water, let dry completely, switched to the OCC .5 ohm head and put new e-liquid in, but I could still strongly taste and smell the remnants of the burned insulator within the tank itself, as could my girlfriend and everyone who tried the tank afterwards. I thought maybe it was just my taste buds since I has cleaned out the tank and put in a new coil, so I brought the tank to my local shop and had a few friends try it out. These people were not present when the insulator melted and had no idea of the original issue until after they tasted it, but were still commenting that my vapor tasted and smelled of burnt chemicals despite the wick being fully saturated and primed correctly as I have always done.
No matter what I do, the tank now tastes terrible with whatever e-liquid or coil I put in it!
This is upsetting, because before this happened, the tank was performing perfectly and tasted amazing. I was completely satisfied with my purchase.
Ive contacted Kanger and myvaporstore but have yet to hear back from any of them. I'm hoping they make things right because I love Kanger's products and reccomend them to all my friends.
I'm having to resort to using my Aspire Atlantis (which I haven't used since I got my subtank mini and my girlfriend's subtank nano) while I wait for this issue to be resolved. Thankfully I rewicked the stock Atlantis coil with some japanese cotton so it doesnt mute the flavor as much as the silica wick did, but its still not as vibrant as the subtank's flavor was.
On a side note, my girlfriend's subtank nano has been performing perfectly and tastes great. I also wanted to say, other than the insulator being bad and messing up my tank, the tank performed great before this issue arose. Its by far my favorite out of the atlantis and the delta ii. I had no wicking issues whatsoever with the RBA and I was using 80/20 VG juice and chain vaping
Also, for anyone who doesnt know (sorry, havent read the entire thread)
In regards to the insulators, from what I hear there are 3 insulator types out there. The original white ones which are known to be bad, the clear ones which were mistakenly labeled as peek insulators and were supposed to fix things but ended up being bad, and now the brown/tan actual peek ones which from what I hear has solved the issue for others, but it might be too soon to tell since they are just now getting them out to people.
From what others have posted here and in other forums, if you have one of the older types of insulators (white or clear), you can contact Kanger and they will send you replacements for free. Unfortunately I was not aware there was a problem with the clear edition of the insulators when I received mine and went ahead and used it Im hoping to hear back from Kanger soon!
In regards to the insulators, from what I hear there are 3 insulator types out there. The original white ones which are known to be bad, the clear ones which were mistakenly labeled as peek insulators and were supposed to fix things but ended up being bad, and now the brown/tan actual peek ones which from what I hear has solved the issue for others, but it might be too soon to tell since they are just now getting them out to people.
From what others have posted here and in other forums, if you have one of the older types of insulators (white or clear), you can contact Kanger and they will send you replacements for free. Unfortunately I was not aware there was a problem with the clear edition of the insulators when I received mine and went ahead and used it
Im hoping to hear back from Kanger soon!Change the drip tip. I didn't have any extra tips and didn't like the wide tip of the Subtank, so I swapped it out with the tip for my Protank 2. Now, I get the spitting (whenever there is crackling) on my Protank, but not the Subtank. I currently have a SmokTech Mega Pyrex tip. You problem is 100% drip tip related.
Looks like I'm going back to the original subtank. This thing can't handle over 20 watts and doesn't wick fast enough or at all. Good try but never gonna work correctly with a tiny Rba section that barely holds and cotton being fed with juice through a hold the size of a tip of a needle. What were they honestly thinking? Too bad. So if anyone wants one with about 23 feet of 24 gauge kanthal I'll let it go for $30.
So the clear one is also bad? That's what mine has but I've only run half tank through the rba section.
It's REALLY really easy to screw up the RBA build.
You need to keep the wick as short as possible.
Make sure it's not touching the juice channels. If it does, you WILL get dry hits.
Build it Kayfun ....-cut style. VERY short. Barely touching the base, but not touching the Juice Channels. Trust me. It'll make your problems go away.
I run 95% VG right now through it, as I have a slight reaction to PV. I can say I've never had a problem since I figured out how to wick this little fella right.
I'll post some pictures if you want me to.
You need to keep the wick as short as possible.
Make sure it's not touching the juice channels. If it does, you WILL get dry hits.
Build it Kayfun ....-cut style. VERY short. Barely touching the base, but not touching the Juice Channels. Trust me. It'll make your problems go away.
I run 95% VG right now through it, as I have a slight reaction to PV. I can say I've never had a problem since I figured out how to wick this little fella right.
I'll post some pictures if you want me to.
Also, here's my thoughts on both the mini and the nano. I've used both for a little over 3 weeks now:
Kanger Subtank Nano
Pros:
Cons:
Kanger Subtank Mini:
Pros:
Cons:
Comparing either to the Atlantis:
Kanger Subtank Nano
Pros:
- Incredible Airflow
- Great Flavor
- Small Design
- Incredibly large amount of vape out of a VERY small tank. (Serious sleeper!)
- Great flavor on both the 1.2 Ohm and the 0.5 Ohm. I prefer the 0.5 Ohm.
- Sweet spot: 24W on 0.5 Ohm OCC. 20W on 1.2 Ohm OCC. YMMV
Cons:
- No RBA
- Drip Tip gets hot if you vape over 24W on the sub-ohm coil, and I haven't found a replacement tip that fits yet. Boo non-standard drip tip!!
Kanger Subtank Mini:
Pros:
- - Incredible Airflow
- - Great Flavor
- - Perfect size, imo.
- - Incredibly large amount of vape out of a VERY small tank.
- - Great flavor off of both 1.2 Ohm and 0.5 Ohm. I prefer the 0.5 ohm OCCs if I had to choose, or build my own.
Cons:
- The RBA is incredibly testy to build. If you mess up the airlow, it'll dry hit. If you don't use enough cotton, it'll Dry hit. If you use too much cotton it'll dry hit, etc..
- The chimney can stick from time to time. The less force you use, the better. Make sure you have the chimney completely dry before trying to remove it and BE GENTLE.
- Drip Tip gets hot if you vape over 24W on the sub-ohm coil. Replace it with another drip tip.
- 3rd party drip tips with single gaskets can fit kind of funny, but that's because of where the gasket sits in the housing (slightly higher than most). YMMV
Comparing either to the Atlantis:
- The flavor is exponentially better on the OCC and RBA than you'll get from the BVC coils on the Atlantis.
- My Atlantis would gargle and spit like crazy. Nothing like having hot lava thrown into your mouth. I instead get to deal with a hot drip tip, which is easily fixable on the Mini.
- The atlantis holds a lot less liquid, and imo leaks more.
- The build quality of the kit that comes with the kanger nano and mini is better, imo.
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Okay, so I use a standard 5x26 gauge wrap of Kanthol. This gives me about 0.7 Ohms.
When Wicking, you really don't want to cut it too thick. You want it to be moderately loose.
Cut your wick to size. I use the inner edge of my base as a guide.
Get your wick wet BEFORE packing it. It makes your life much easier.
Pack your wick, ....-cut style. Make sure the Juice channels are clear.
Will continue in Part 2 below. I can only attach 5 pictures per post.
When Wicking, you really don't want to cut it too thick. You want it to be moderately loose.
Cut your wick to size. I use the inner edge of my base as a guide.
Get your wick wet BEFORE packing it. It makes your life much easier.
Pack your wick, ....-cut style. Make sure the Juice channels are clear.
Will continue in Part 2 below. I can only attach 5 pictures per post.
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Picture from the sides so you can see how I have it packed away from the juice channels.
The other side
As you can see in this picture, the wicking is packed away from the juice channels even after the barrel is put on.
Top Cap screwed on.
All buttoned up and ready to not give dry hits.
The End.
EDIT: In the future, I'll also post on a temperature controlled build works out. Just waiting for my DNA 40 to show up.
The other side
As you can see in this picture, the wicking is packed away from the juice channels even after the barrel is put on.
Top Cap screwed on.
All buttoned up and ready to not give dry hits.
The End.
EDIT: In the future, I'll also post on a temperature controlled build works out. Just waiting for my DNA 40 to show up.
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Dude. Thanks for this. I'll definitely try it soon as I can. I was just vaping 90/10 vg/pg on the stock rba 0.5 ohm coil and I got a nasty dry hit that burnt my lungs. I did heat up and pinch the coils together for some reason. What does that do? It didn't change the resistance.
Pinching the coils just evens out the heating on them. You want them to heat up evenly from the center out, covering the whole coil.
Also, keep in mind that the sweet spot I've found is about 24 watts for most of the juices and amount I vape on this build deck. YMMV, but if you're getting dry hits, turn it down a half a watt, wait about 30 seconds, and try hitting again, until you find your sweet spot for both flavor and vape.
Also, you WILL know if you messed up. You'll get pretty harsh vapes. Just take out the cotton and try again until you get it right.
You will also know when you get it right. The vapes will be juicy and tasty as heck, with big thick clouds
Also, you WILL know if you messed up. You'll get pretty harsh vapes. Just take out the cotton and try again until you get it right.
You will also know when you get it right. The vapes will be juicy and tasty as heck, with big thick clouds
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