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JustWondering1

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Aug 29, 2015
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I got the TTM problem solved by using the rba with the Kanger rba coil. It's working great now! I've got a little more air than I like, but I think when I change the coil, I'll replace it with one of my fast tech prebuilts and it will be an awesome vape!

Thanks to everyone who chimed in with ideas and advice!

I'll worry about my problem with my STM another day!

Thanks again,

J.W.
 

JustWondering1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Aug 29, 2015
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One more thing I did to solve the airflow problem was to keep fiddling with the airflow base until I got it right. Still, it was the RBA that made the biggest difference. That doesn't seem logical, but it's what happened!

I would have probably given up without all of the good suggestions and tips everyone gave me.
Thanks again!!
 

MacTechVpr

Vaping Master
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Verified Member
Aug 24, 2013
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Hollywood (Beach), FL
I got the TTM problem solved by using the RBA with the Kanger RBA coil. It's working great now! I've got a little more air than I like, but I think when I change the coil, I'll replace it with one of my Fast Tech prebuilts and it will be an awesome vape!

Thanks to everyone who chimed in with ideas and advice!

I'll worry about my problem with my STM another day!

Thanks again,

J.W.

One more thing I did to solve the airflow problem was to keep fiddling with the airflow base until I got it right. Still, it was the RBA that made the biggest difference. That doesn't seem logical, but it's what happened!

I would have probably given up without all of the good suggestions and tips everyone gave me.
Thanks again!!

Congrats that you made some headway JW. And your suspicion of the base.

I say change the air filter before you drop the engine. What you describe as sizzling is an indication of over-saturation (under-power) as several posts above suggest.

Sizzling at the end of a pull can also be over-drying of the wick (if you're running lower power). You've pulled too hard, or too often, or it's too much wicking for the capacity of the media you have installed choking flow (not enough airflow as well can keep it too wet). That'll give you some afterburn when you let off. But, short of sputtering or spitting which can happen with too much power whether too wet or dry. Point being, the coil's too hot for the mix.

So there could be several issues in play as well. To better focus the convo we'd need to make sure it's not low-power wetting your connection. Was your base contact wet? If even a bit and you dried it out, how did it change the vape?

Limiting the air/juice flow's a nice stop-gap but I'm afraid it may not help find the cause in your case. If it's a clone, it could very well be fit. We can go down a million rabbit holes without knowing your exact set-up. For example, what is the metal comp of your Fasttech coils? We make the assumption too often that things should work.

Like your RBA observation. It's spot on. It does work better than the OCC, even with the FT mystery wire. Don't you wonder why Aspire went to US made Kanthal? It's not because they know better. It's due to the influence of users here and elsewhere observing that their's didn't work, imo. As to the ST RBA, it allows you to put in a more effective wire or build. Unfortunately, it lacks the airflow of the OCC (by design).

As for the small or larger side air-hole RBA's that replaced the good old originals, haven't you noticed how they're everywhere for sale? Especially clones. You could dial up the channel flow of the original RBA with a little delicate effort of tuning the feed channels. And it's needed because as the spec's tightened up for these tanks so did the need for air and juice flow precision. Our taste and juice variations require it. There's no one-size-fits-all. I guess that's really the illusion that we're struggling with.

As our gear has gotten better (in design) subtle changes to the hardware or aftermarket substitutes can cause major problems in performance. An example are clone bases which due to fit and alignment issues with the cores often produce some of the symptoms you describe.

There's a Spanish expression I love which applies here…el que compra barato compra de cada rato.

Translation: He who buys cheap buys often.

Unfortunately with the FDA breathing down our necks there's little incentive for makers to keep up replacement parts support or quality. So it's ever more important for us to understand how the stuff actually works and particularly, to rebuild.

Good luck. :)
 

JustWondering1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Aug 29, 2015
4,228
13,182
Congrats that you made some headway JW. And your suspicion of the base.

I say change the air filter before you drop the engine. What you describe as sizzling is an indication of over-saturation (under-power) as several posts above suggest.

Sizzling at the end of a pull can also be over-drying of the wick (if you're running lower power). You've pulled too hard, or too often, or it's too much wicking for the capacity of the media you have installed choking flow (not enough airflow as well can keep it too wet). That'll give you some afterburn when you let off. But, short of sputtering or spitting which can happen with too much power whether too wet or dry. Point being, the coil's too hot for the mix.

So there could be several issues in play as well. To better focus the convo we'd need to make sure it's not low-power wetting your connection. Was your base contact wet? If even a bit and you dried it out, how did it change the vape?

Limiting the air/juice flow's a nice stop-gap but I'm afraid it may not help find the cause in your case. If it's a clone, it could very well be fit. We can go down a million rabbit holes without knowing your exact set-up. For example, what is the metal comp of your Fasttech coils? We make the assumption too often that things should work.

Like your RBA observation. It's spot on. It does work better than the OCC, even with the FT mystery wire. Don't you wonder why Aspire went to US made Kanthal? It's not because they know better. It's due to the influence of users here and elsewhere observing that their's didn't work, imo. As to the ST RBA, it allows you to put in a more effective wire or build. Unfortunately, it lacks the airflow of the OCC (by design).

As for the small or larger side air-hole RBA's that replaced the good old originals, haven't you noticed how they're everywhere for sale? Especially clones. You could dial up the channel flow of the original RBA with a little delicate effort of tuning the feed channels. And it's needed because as the spec's tightened up for these tanks so did the need for air and juice flow precision. Our taste and juice variations require it. There's no one-size-fits-all. I guess that's really the illusion that we're struggling with.

As our gear has gotten better (in design) subtle changes to the hardware or aftermarket substitutes can cause major problems in performance. An example are clone bases which due to fit and alignment issues with the cores often produce some of the symptoms you describe.

There's a Spanish expression I love which applies here…el que compra barato compra de cada rato.

Translation: He who buys cheap buys often.

Unfortunately with the FDA breathing down our necks there's little incentive for makers to keep up replacement parts support or quality. So it's ever more important for us to understand how the stuff actually works and particularly, to rebuild.

Good luck. :)

Thank you so much! I have no clue how to solve this problem! I don't have a lot of experience with RBAs, but I am trying to learn as quickly as I can.

The airflow issue I had on the TTM I solved by persistent fiddling with the AFC and using the RBA.

The harsh taste of my vape was on my STMs, and now that I've got an RBA in my TTMs, I'm having the same harsh taste in them too. The harsh taste isn't present with every hit, but I am vaping on three different mods, trying to rotate them with each hit, and am still getting harsh hits fairly often. The longer I wait between hits, the less likely it will be a harsh one.

I would love help figuring this out. The only time I remember having this issue before is when I would move the wattage either up or down too rapidly.

I decided the problem must be that I had used the Kanger prebuilt coils that came with the STMs. These were sub-ohm prebuilt coils, because my mod showed them to be at approximately .3 and .5 or .6 ohms. Previously, I had used higher ohm prebuilt Kanthal coils that I got at Fast Tech, and didn't have this problem. I think these Fast Tech prebuilts are 1.5 ohm coils. When I say prebuilt coils, I am talking about the already coiled wires, that you need to wick and then trap the leads in the RBA screws. I thought surely this would fix it, but it did not. These are supposed to be Kanthal, but the writing on the label is in Chinese, so I can't be sure.

I should mention that I am vaping on three mods right now and having the same problem on all three of them:

EVIC VTWO & STM
Using my STM at 11 W and the coil reads at .96. This is a prebuilt Kanthal coil that's supposed to be 1.0 ohm. The label is in English, so I am sure this is Kanthal. This STM is on my EVIC VTWO Mini.

Eleaf Pico & TTM
My Pico is at 12.7 W and the coil reads 1.74 ohms. This is a generic prebuilt coil, that I think is supposed to be 1.5 ohms. I got these prebuilt coils at Fast Tech. I am sure I ordered Kanthal, but since I can't read Chinese, I can't be sure what they are.

iStick 40 & STM
The iStick is set at 13.5 W and the coil reads .66. I guess this must be one of the sub-ohm prebuilts that came with the STM.

I think it's possible there was a drop or two of water on the base when I put the coils on and wicked them, but I can't be sure. Should I put new coils on now, so I can make sure there's no water?

Are my STMs and TTMs clones? I can't be sure. I've bought three STMs that are supposed to be authentic and were bought from U.S. vendors, and two that were clones. I don't know which of them are clones and which of them are authentic. I'm pretty sure the three TTMs are authentic because I bought them from a U.S. vendor with a good reputation.

Thanks again for your help with this!! Any advice is greatly appreciated!

J.W.
 

JustWondering1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Aug 29, 2015
4,228
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I was wondering same as I understood you could. Tried to order some cages before they ran out. Any leads on these replacement parts?

Good luck. :)

I'm not sure what you mean when you say cages? If you mean the bases, I assumed Cheallaigh was asking if I could just use the STM base on the TTM tank. I tried to do this and it didn't work. I've seen tons of the bases for sale, most recently on Desert Vapes, but I know I've seen them on other sites as well. I would be happy to let you know whenever I see the bases on various sites.
 

Halphes

Full Member
Oct 13, 2016
5
13
45
Whats up fellow Vape lovers? I searched to see if a thread on the SUBTANK Mini had been created and I could not find one so I created this. If one already exists feel free to merge them. Here is my review of the KangerTech SUBTANK Mini. I am loving this tank!
<span style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-size: 12.8000001907349px; background-color: rgb(250, 250, 250);">

This look awesome
 

Cheallaigh

Ultra Member
Aug 13, 2016
2,281
2,954
54
Georgian Bay, Ontario
typically it's a wicking issue, either too little or too much... either way not enough is getting to the coil. what I do with all my rbas, cause a few dry hits was enough for me... every 6 or 8 vapes and it can vary I do a prep vape... close the air, don't press the button and a couple of quick puffs. it's a small risk of flooding it a bit over horrible dry hits.
 
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JustWondering1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Aug 29, 2015
4,228
13,182
typically it's a wicking issue, either too little or too much... either way not enough is getting to the coil. what I do with all my rbas, cause a few dry hits was enough for me... every 6 or 8 vapes and it can vary I do a prep vape... close the air, don't press the button and a couple of quick puffs. it's a small risk of flooding it a bit over horrible dry hits.

I'm going to try that. It's odd though that I'm having this issue with juices that are fairly high in pg, isn't it?
 
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