KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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Well, this old man needs to fall over and take a nap. Thank you all for your insight and guidance. Got a busy eatin day ahead tomorrow. Correction!.. today! Gnite all
The animal thingy is a copyright watermark from DesertVapes so no one copy's the pic. The box looks the same as the authentic boxes I got my bases in. So I do assume the bases are authentic. The rba looks like but they don't show the box it comes in, it comes in the same little black box as the base.
My best guess is that if your going to snag the pic then reuse it on your site then people notice, squint to see that its a DV pic you snagged and either DV get some free advertising or you'll get flamed for using their pic.
I've used DV many times and they are a good vender. Fastest shipping in the west.
The authentic bases and rbas are cheap enough, I don't see any reason to go with clones. Some of the bell caps work better than others. I got some small (but pretty) caps that aren't sold anymore. They were hard to fill 1/3rd and leaked. My suggestion is to try a couple different ones and maybe a top fill stm to see what fits your vaping style best.
I've also seen authentic stm's on clearance sales from $10 to $20 and since they include base, coils and cap, the price is hard to beat. I don't know why Kanger paints the inside chimney, but they do and it's a reason I stick with stainless. I'd trust a painted clone even less. That's just my opinion.
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The authentic bases and rbas are cheap enough, I don't see any reason to go with clones. Some of the bell caps work better than others. I got some small (but pretty) caps that aren't sold anymore. They were hard to fill 1/3rd and leaked. My suggestion is to try a couple different ones and maybe a top fill stm to see what fits your vaping style best.
I've also seen authentic stm's on clearance sales from $10 to $20 and since they include base, coils and cap, the price is hard to beat. I don't know why Kanger paints the inside chimney, but they do and it's a reason I stick with stainless. I'd trust a painted clone even less. That's just my opinion.
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Well, I give up trying to check those things out. Other people must be making the website hang up. Was on there today placing an order and had no problem going all over the website. My bet is "lurkers" have gone in and gotten them all by now anyway. They had the bases in several colors and the RBAs earlier today.
To clarify - I don't care one way or the other where people get their stuff. It's not some sort of competition to me. When I post about a sale or where something can be found...I don't get compensated for it in any way. I just try to help people find authentic stuff, when it's available for nearly the same price as the clones. My apparent frustration in posting sometimes is only because I can't zip zoom around on websites quick enough to not only keep up on here, but beat people to websites when they're buying up what I'm posting about for others. Rant over.
JC don't kid us now, you are hard core shinny.
Happy Easter all. G'luck.
These work perfectly....
Out of stock though....
$6.15 Acrylic SUBTANK Mini Bell Cap (5-Pack) - translucent / 37.5mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Thanks!
Those are the second ones of the 2 I posted earlier, but not the 5-pack since it was sold out. I just ordered 5 of the single ones instead, and it was only 40 cents more after the 10% off. The pack of colored ones I posted look to be the same in style/shape so I got them, too, even though they say they're .5mm taller. I like some color, too, sometimes.
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They been out of stock for eons...
I have just 1 of those bellcaps I bought just to see, they are prolly 4 or 4.5ml, not sure without checking but assume they are the same mls as the stock caged tank. They are better than the 42.6 caps only smaller, have a thicker, flatter top and feel more quality. I'm not fond of the smaller tanks since once you get a good build in them its seems your always refilling. I built a OMG clapton 26SS/34nichrome .24ohm into my TFV4 and feels like as soon as I sit down I have to get up and refill, must have refilled that atty bout a dozen times yesterday. I just began enjoying other wire types than the the kanthal I've been using since day 1. For those who haven't dwelled into stainless yet like me...your missing a new level if vape nirvana that leaves kanthal behind
Woohoo!
My jackpot from the STM/Quadflex trade was delivered Monday!
Not so woohoo! I'm in the truck headed for Missouri.
My jackpot from the STM/Quadflex trade was delivered Monday!
Not so woohoo! I'm in the truck headed for Missouri.
Great to see this thread alive and kicking. The stm has launched many a vaper into the world of building for flavor and nic hit.
I find the coils included with the RBA seem to last the longest of any coil I've used. Does anyone know what type of wire they're made of?
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I need a little help...
Been building using the RBA plus (the first "plus" with the larger holes closer to the bottom) for about a year and a half. Love it. But I'm having an issue where the juice starts to darken and you can see the darker juice coming out of the wicking holes or from the bottom of the chimney. The flavor starts to be impacted within a day. There a lot of potential factors I'm aware of - juice sweetness, build "quality", vape frequency, etc. I like fresh wicks and coils so I've always changed out every 1-3 days, but this darkening problem seems to be getting worse. So:
MTL vapor using the tightest air flow setting (v2 base) at 20 watts.
DIY juice - usually some form of tobacco, but I do also like bakery/sweets on occasion. 6mg/ml nic.
Coil - kanthal, 2.5 MM wrap, 5 wraps, spaced, 1.0 - 1.05 ohms.
Wick - KGD cotton, snipped to the height of the top of the chimney.
Vaping style: I tend to chain vape.
Are there any ideas, or do I need to take pics of my next build as I put it together?
Another question: doing the same build over and over, yet sometimes the flavor is incredible, other times not so much. Does anybody else experience this? My last build looked perfect, but it tastes kinda bland...hate that!
Thanks in advance for the help.
Been building using the RBA plus (the first "plus" with the larger holes closer to the bottom) for about a year and a half. Love it. But I'm having an issue where the juice starts to darken and you can see the darker juice coming out of the wicking holes or from the bottom of the chimney. The flavor starts to be impacted within a day. There a lot of potential factors I'm aware of - juice sweetness, build "quality", vape frequency, etc. I like fresh wicks and coils so I've always changed out every 1-3 days, but this darkening problem seems to be getting worse. So:
MTL vapor using the tightest air flow setting (v2 base) at 20 watts.
DIY juice - usually some form of tobacco, but I do also like bakery/sweets on occasion. 6mg/ml nic.
Coil - kanthal, 2.5 MM wrap, 5 wraps, spaced, 1.0 - 1.05 ohms.
Wick - KGD cotton, snipped to the height of the top of the chimney.
Vaping style: I tend to chain vape.
Are there any ideas, or do I need to take pics of my next build as I put it together?
Another question: doing the same build over and over, yet sometimes the flavor is incredible, other times not so much. Does anybody else experience this? My last build looked perfect, but it tastes kinda bland...hate that!
Thanks in advance for the help.
@dcdozer First thing i notice is your wattage. I assume you're using 28g Kanthal. For me 20W would get way too hot with such builds, even more with so little air, but that's also a matter of taste/preference. You could try a 7/6 wrap with 26g, 0.8 Ohm, at around 20W and slightly more air. You'd get a cooler, more dense vape and more taste.
I do however recognize the darkening of juice and flowing back into the tank. This occurs when i haven't wicked properly, usually too much wick, possibly also touching a post, the cap or the wire outside the coil (the legs) too much. Often very close to a dryhit.
When chainvaping you could consider using a bit more wick, 2mm above the cap, but really fluffy and combed, and certainly not jammed into the rba, and try to make it touch nothing, only cover the holes, to create some sort of reservoir.
Your builds may always look the same but most of the time the density of the wick varies. And this often influences the vape. I usually try to make it absorb as much juice as possible and avoid dryhits but balance between that and leakage.
Also make sure the screws aren't rusty, this occurs mostly with rba clones and older rba's. Wash and dry them thoroughly before every rebuild.
I do however recognize the darkening of juice and flowing back into the tank. This occurs when i haven't wicked properly, usually too much wick, possibly also touching a post, the cap or the wire outside the coil (the legs) too much. Often very close to a dryhit.
When chainvaping you could consider using a bit more wick, 2mm above the cap, but really fluffy and combed, and certainly not jammed into the rba, and try to make it touch nothing, only cover the holes, to create some sort of reservoir.
Your builds may always look the same but most of the time the density of the wick varies. And this often influences the vape. I usually try to make it absorb as much juice as possible and avoid dryhits but balance between that and leakage.
Also make sure the screws aren't rusty, this occurs mostly with rba clones and older rba's. Wash and dry them thoroughly before every rebuild.
Wow - thanks Leo - watching NHL playoffs now and will respond later. Thank you!
I found that I have to take the RBA apart often to get the burn't taste out of the airflow tube from dryburn scraping cooties especially since you can't overheat the coil. I do more scraping than burning and clean the old juice from under the insulators and of course removing all the screws to clean all the threads. Its easy to remove the coil, clean everything then put the same coil back into place and/or dryburn the coil separately with a torch and pliers so you don't burn the positive insulator from over heating.
I get a ring of dark juice along the bottom of the atty so its saying that my coil is cocooned and time to clean or replace.
Thinning the tails especially wicking with rayon is key and same method for cotton. Just pack the coil tight then with tweezers or pin scrape through the tail removing the excess wick without getting too close to the coil and taking from the coil. Rayon doesn't absorb juice like cotton does but flows the juice on the outside of the strands so more(tight) is better in the coil but less is better in the tails so you don't choke the juice flow.
I'd like to share a recent experience I had. The STM was l leaking. A LOT. I thought it was because I changed my o-rings but I found out my wick wasn't long enough . Problem solved!
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Yes regularly taking the rba apart helps. I quit dryburning used coils quite a while ago. New fresh coil for every build after an average 50 ml of juice and also a good rinse of the base with very hot water.
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