All of my other tanks have officially been retired and my second mini can't get here fast enough. Technology is such a beautiful thing.
KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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Put a new build on the mini this morning. Intermittent contact prob raised its ugly head. It's not the coil or build. It's the rba pos pin coming loose from the rba base. As a general rule I never remove the rba base when building or rewicking. I just don't get how that pos pin unscrews when it's trapped between the rba base and the 510 base pin. It does though...this is the second time it's happened even though I tighten the crap out of it.
Could this have caused the burnt insulators? I think so if the high resistivity in the circuit occurs at the threading of the pos pin and pos deck post. My res readings went from normal to 5.2ohms and everywhere in between within just a half dozen vapes.
Tightened everything up and all is well now. It's a little scary though because when APVs are in wattage mode and see a high res they will crank up the voltage to maintain wattage. In my case it was putting out 50w when it saw higher than actual res although I had it set to 20w. Can't image what would happen with 150w APVs when that happens. Just say'n and I hope you're listn'n.
Side note: If your coil is not firing from the center out when you know it should be your rba pos pin could be loose. It adds resistivity to the pos side of the circuit and shifts the res center toward the pos side (guessing here). Mine was doing that so I fiddled with the post screws until it stopped. Turns out that was coincidental and there was an underlying problem.
Cig
Could this have caused the burnt insulators? I think so if the high resistivity in the circuit occurs at the threading of the pos pin and pos deck post. My res readings went from normal to 5.2ohms and everywhere in between within just a half dozen vapes.
Tightened everything up and all is well now. It's a little scary though because when APVs are in wattage mode and see a high res they will crank up the voltage to maintain wattage. In my case it was putting out 50w when it saw higher than actual res although I had it set to 20w. Can't image what would happen with 150w APVs when that happens. Just say'n and I hope you're listn'n.
Side note: If your coil is not firing from the center out when you know it should be your rba pos pin could be loose. It adds resistivity to the pos side of the circuit and shifts the res center toward the pos side (guessing here). Mine was doing that so I fiddled with the post screws until it stopped. Turns out that was coincidental and there was an underlying problem.
Cig
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Authentic zna lite + dna 40 + sub tank mini + rba with brown insulators + ni 200 at .20 ohms = awsomeness.
Followup to my previous first impressions post... Making some progress.
I made a smaller 30awg Ni200 coil (7 wrap) that fits on the deck a little better. I also wrapped the Ni200 leads around the posts in hopes of improving the connection. Even spaced on a m4 left hand thread screw, tension wrapped with a jig. .17ohm.
Wicked a little different, my typical build is to juice the cotton and then use a micro flathead to stick the ends to the deck brushing the top of the juice channels. This time I left a bunch more cotton, and used the "ends pulled up through the lower chimney section" method. I mushed the ends down on to the deck with the micro flathead, making sure there was a small opening exposing the small juice holes on either side. Juiced it up and it's a little better.
Flavor is a little better. I'm getting there...
I made a smaller 30awg Ni200 coil (7 wrap) that fits on the deck a little better. I also wrapped the Ni200 leads around the posts in hopes of improving the connection. Even spaced on a m4 left hand thread screw, tension wrapped with a jig. .17ohm.
Wicked a little different, my typical build is to juice the cotton and then use a micro flathead to stick the ends to the deck brushing the top of the juice channels. This time I left a bunch more cotton, and used the "ends pulled up through the lower chimney section" method. I mushed the ends down on to the deck with the micro flathead, making sure there was a small opening exposing the small juice holes on either side. Juiced it up and it's a little better.
Flavor is a little better. I'm getting there...
My first ni200 build went flawless. Did an 11 wrap 3mm at .20 ohms with 28 gauge. It's wicking like a champ. 22 watts without a hint of tc kicking in at 390f. More coil = more flavor.
IanDVaypes has posted a picture in the RBA inconsistencies thread of his RBA deck that came with the updated brown insulators pre-installed, and juice channels cut all the way through. If anyone cares to see what the latest version of the RBA looks like, check it out. I've re-posted it in the insulator melting thread as well since it pertains to the issue.
Hopefully this latest version of the RBA puts any issues to rest and everyone can be happy again
I've also been able to start using my subtank mini again by thoroughly cleaning multiple times with alcohol and distilled water and using another OCC coil. I've got my baby back! Partially, but still better than nothing
Hopefully this latest version of the RBA puts any issues to rest and everyone can be happy again
I've also been able to start using my subtank mini again by thoroughly cleaning multiple times with alcohol and distilled water and using another OCC coil. I've got my baby back! Partially, but still better than nothing
Thanks @IanDVaypes - I'm going to try a larger coil tonight with a bit more cotton, was also getting some hot spitback as well. I might try @WeirdWillie's bridging method too to keep the big ol' coil nice and fed...
IanDVaypes has posted a picture in the RBA inconsistencies thread of his RBA deck that came with the updated brown insulators pre-installed, and juice channels cut all the way through. If anyone cares to see what the latest version of the RBA looks like, check it out. I've re-posted it in the insulator melting thread as well since it pertains to the issue.
Hopefully this latest version of the RBA puts any issues to rest and everyone can be happy again
How bout providing a link to the thread page with the pics of the new setup?
I dont want to cross post, you can find the thread started by me in the clearomizer section of the forum. I dont want to derail this thread with the insulator discussion any longer as Im sure people are tired of reading about it here when there are already threads for it
Hey guys, I haven't gotten a chance to catch up, so the brown insulators is a thing we should be emailing Kanger for?
Also, I've only had my mini since last Tuesday but so far I love it. So I've been messing with the RBA section and I'm not sure if I bought some janky Kanthal or what, but when I do 5 wraps of 26 gauge on a 5/64's drill bit (1.98mm) I get .3 ohms. When I do 6 wraps, I get .4 ohms. Shouldn't I be getting around .5-.6 ohms? Setup is on an IPV Mini and it usually reads .1 ohm lower than actual.
Deck or could my kanthal be shoddy?
has to be the kanthal right? all other stock builds read just fine.
Also, I've only had my mini since last Tuesday but so far I love it. So I've been messing with the RBA section and I'm not sure if I bought some janky Kanthal or what, but when I do 5 wraps of 26 gauge on a 5/64's drill bit (1.98mm) I get .3 ohms. When I do 6 wraps, I get .4 ohms. Shouldn't I be getting around .5-.6 ohms? Setup is on an IPV Mini and it usually reads .1 ohm lower than actual.
Deck or could my kanthal be shoddy?
has to be the kanthal right? all other stock builds read just fine.
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I have not had the opportunity to try out the RBA section on my newly acquired mini yet. I have only used the 1.2 ohm OCC and am thoroughly it! I also have not really had the itch to get into the RBA section yet, as I have been enjoying the OCC so much.
In my opinion, going from an Atlantis to the Subtank mini was like going from vivi novas to the nautilus mini. For me, the Subtank mini with the 1.2 ohm occ cool has been an absolute delight! Crazy flavor, great vapor production, and I like that it is a nice warm vape.
What is your favorite configuration (occ, RBA, resistance, wattage and juice) in your Subtank Mini?
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In my opinion, going from an Atlantis to the Subtank mini was like going from vivi novas to the nautilus mini. For me, the Subtank mini with the 1.2 ohm occ cool has been an absolute delight! Crazy flavor, great vapor production, and I like that it is a nice warm vape.
What is your favorite configuration (occ, RBA, resistance, wattage and juice) in your Subtank Mini?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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OK... did a new build again, this time 8 wraps of 30awg Ni200 coming in around .20-.21 with an inner diameter of around 3.2mm. Wicked it more densely with KGD cotton and left some longer tails. Flavor is really starting to come through... and this may also be due to a lack of machine oil that these things were coated in when they arrived. I've cleaned them several times thoroughly. My go-to liquids are coming through as they should now... I've still got some time I need to spend with these little guys, but I'm almost ready to say "impressive" ...
Mini arrived today. Brown insulator from Canvape.com (registered supplier here)
fits on an IPV mini just nicely. I like the "lip" on the afc base to catch juice off the coil or rba when you take it apart. the 25mm subtank has less of a lip on the base.
the mini really is mini. I won't even be using the RBA on it, rather build on the 25mm RBA. I tried the mini this morning, like it. Airflow is nice but the 25mm is the caddy of subtanks for me. More capacity, less time spent filling it. Anyway, I had no dry hits on the mini RBA up to 25w and I'm no expert on wicking...dumb luck.
I don't give permission for my pictures to be crossposted to any other thread here.
fits on an IPV mini just nicely. I like the "lip" on the afc base to catch juice off the coil or rba when you take it apart. the 25mm subtank has less of a lip on the base.
the mini really is mini. I won't even be using the RBA on it, rather build on the 25mm RBA. I tried the mini this morning, like it. Airflow is nice but the 25mm is the caddy of subtanks for me. More capacity, less time spent filling it. Anyway, I had no dry hits on the mini RBA up to 25w and I'm no expert on wicking...dumb luck.
I don't give permission for my pictures to be crossposted to any other thread here.
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Did get a chance to read through all the posts but has anyone had a problem with the BA section? I did. It would not make connection inside the base. In my case I guess the VaporSharks spring in the 510 isn't strong enought to push up the Subtank Mini's center pin to make connection. So what I did was unscrewed the pin on the RBA section and put a small o-ring (from two sided key chain screwdriver) under the shaft insulator. Now it is working!
This is the drip tip I'm using on my nano without temperature control. It's the mega pyrex 510 drip tip, made by Smoktech.
I got it from kidneypuncher: Mega Pyrex 510 Drip Tip - Kidney Puncher
Here's the drip tip I use on my subtank mini. It also works great on the nano. Being as I'm running temperature control on my mini, no longer really have problems with overheating.
I am using a fat boy drip tip with the mix boy delrin insulator currently:
Again, available from kidneypuncher:
Mix Boy Hybrid Drip Tip - Kidney Puncher for the insulator.
Fat Boy Hybrid Drip Tip - Kidney Puncher for the tip.
It's by far the most comfortable drip tip I own.
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Did get a chance to read through all the posts but has anyone had a problem with the BA section? I did. It would not make connection inside the base. In my case I guess the VaporSharks spring in the 510 isn't strong enought to push up the Subtank Mini's center pin to make connection. So what I did was unscrewed the pin on the RBA section and put a small o-ring (from two sided key chain screwdriver) under the shaft insulator. Now it is working!
So I've been playing with two of these for the last four days, one for myself and one for the wifey. I was holding off on stating and forming any set opinions until thoroughly tested and played with, but I must say I'm very impressed for an RTA kit designed for beginner-moderate experienced vapers!! Both myself and the other half are rocking these and having great vaping time, and I normally run a dripper! That is until very late last night when I decided to try and use the RBA. I checked, and re-checked my coil and connections with eyes and a meter, but the Vaporshark (my everyday device) continued to say "check atomizer", like there was no atomizer there. I finally gave up and went to bed (it was already very much past my bedtime), figured I'd play around again tonight to figure it out. But what your saying above MegaVap makes sense. Could you post some pictures of the modification you made with the o-ring please? That way I'll attempt to make the same or similar adjustment to make it work.
Thank s in advance
The pin is just floating in there held by a rubber grommet. What I did was unscrew the RBA push the base against a flat surface(pin down) and reinstall the RBA. You should see the pin push out just slightly when you screw in the RBA.
Awww yeah! Got mine today, and so far I'm loving it. A true dripper experience from a tank. This thing makes as much flavor and vapor as any of my drippers, and gives me almost as much airflow. I'm so happy with it, I had to go sit out in this rare, beautifully sunny, 70 degree February day and do a little photo shoot with it.
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