KangerTech SUBTANK Mini

[cigatron]

Spitting or popping has always meant the coil is flooding to me. Turning up the power or wicking slightly lighter takes care of it every time for me.

I tolerate some spitting early on during wick break in because I wick heavy for extended wick life and no dry hits. My twisted 32 spaced coil runs at 27.5-30w once broke in but early during break in I have had to go as high as 40w to stave off popping or spitting.

Agree with the previous post....pg is spittier.

 

[g3n3r1c]

Spitting or popping has always meant the coil is flooding to me. Turning up the power or wicking slightly lighter takes care of it every time for me.

I tolerate some spitting early on during wick break in because I wick heavy for extended wick life and no dry hits. My twisted 32 spaced coil runs at 27.5-30w once broke in but early during break in I have had to go as high as 40w to stave off popping or spitting.

This is something I've been fighting with mentally if not physically.
I've just gotten into VV/VW territory, always used mech mods and built my coil for the wattage I'm going for, with these VW devices I've been running .8ohm - 1.2 ohm coils at 3.8-4.2 volt thinking I shouldn't try to over do it... but I should be running them higher and find I really like a 5v vape..
I feel like this is just going to wreck my wicking but then all of you are doing the same..

I'm falling for it though, I just cranked up this 0.8ohm triple twisted 30awg coil up to 27, 28, 29, 30watt and it's damn good, the higher I go the less pop and spit I get, and the more the flavor comes out...
I will say that the vertical coils I've built on this RTA require less or no break in time, and they don't pop or spit like the horizontals, and they are much quieter which is a good thing at work

Here's to going against everything I learned using mech mods and genesis wicks.

Also, using the STMini RBA, the last vertical coil I built is still rocking after 30ml.. and the last horizontal coil I built is still rocking after 40ml.

I'm finding balance in both wicking and building my coils, thanks to all you people for sharing what you do.

 

[DP2Raja]

Hey thanks man, it worked a treat. Cheers!

Really glad that helped! Enjoy it!

 

[RandyF]

Spitting or popping has always meant the coil is flooding to me. Turning up the power or wicking slightly lighter takes care of it every time for me.

I tolerate some spitting early on during wick break in because I wick heavy for extended wick life and no dry hits. My twisted 32 spaced coil runs at 27.5-30w once broke in but early during break in I have had to go as high as 40w to stave off popping or spitting.

Agree with the previous post....pg is spittier.

Yea, I think I will try more cotton, I tend to wick on the light side, possibly letting too much juice to the wicks. I never get any flooding, but it is very possible they are over-saturated. I vape a 65vg/35pg, so I wouldn't think the juice being too thin is an issue.

 

[cigatron]

Yea, I think I will try more cotton, I tend to wick on the light side, possibly letting too much juice to the wicks. I never get any flooding, but it is very possible they are over-saturated. I vape a 65vg/35pg, so I wouldn't think the juice being too thin is an issue.

It's interesting Randy and G3N, I came from the "less is more" generation of wicking strategies with protanks and its variants. Wicking in those tanks was super stupid critical to getting even a decent vape because the wick had to go through a hole or slot into the tank to form a seal. A little too much cotton, the draw would get tight and produce dryhits...too little, they would flood/oversaturate and spit and pop. It wasn't that more cotton transported less juice, quite the opposite actually, it was that air could not enter the tank as easily to releave some vacuum so juice could flow.

With these kayfun style rtas there is no hole or slot that the wick has to seal off therefore air can freely enter the tank on low pressure demand.....an awesome thing really because now "more is more". The more densely we compact the cotton in the coil the faster it transports juice to the coil (up to a point) and the higher power levels we can maintain. Allows for running high vg juice too...a huge boon to tank vaping!!

So I really struggled at first with my Billow, Lemo and STmini because of my "less is more" mentality. I kept trying to fix dryhits by wicking lighter....fail. I had to unlearn everything I thought I knew, began wicking heavier and now all of my rtas work flawless...except the Billow which leaks when placed on it's side. Oh well, can't win'em all I guess.

Anyway, glad to see so many peeps having success with the STmini and other rtas using heavier wicking. Just rewicked my lemo after 95ml.....whaaaaat?!

 

[Darryl Licht]

...Agree with the previous post....pg is spittier.

lol

 

[TDiddlez]

Did it have the black o rings also? If so, what vendor did you use? Looking forward to o order a 2nd mini, but definitely want to make sure it is the latest with PEEK, cut holes and black o's

I just ordered mine from WorldofVape.com on Monday and it arrived today. Has the tan PEEK insulator and came with black O ring replacements. My first subohm tank and I am loving it.

 

[BigEgo]

I just ordered mine from WorldofVape.com on Monday and it arrived today. Has the tan PEEK insulator and came with black O ring replacements. My first subohm tank and I am loving it.

Mine came with red orings, but has the new insulator and the deep juice channels.

 

[Darryl Licht]

I just ordered mine from WorldofVape.com on Monday and it arrived today. Has the tan PEEK insulator and came with black O ring replacements. My first subohm tank and I am loving it.

Mine came with red orings, but has the new insulator and the deep juice channels.

If you both think it's good with the OCC's, wait till you get a good build on that rba! Oh Myyyyyyy!

 

[RandyF]

If you both think it's good with the OCC's, wait till you get a good build on that rba! Oh Myyyyyyy!

I'm hoping to find that good build with the RBA, but those OCC heads work pretty damn well, and I really like the smooth draw. I would like to find someone that could make PEEK insulators to replace the rubber ones they have now. Seems like it would work if there were a couple grooves for the wire milled into it. Though I haven't tried rebuilding with the red insulators Kanger is using now, maybe they will have a higher heat tolerance than the white did.

 

[TDiddlez]

If you both think it's good with the OCC's, wait till you get a good build on that rba! Oh Myyyyyyy!

Yes still looking to get into the RBA as this will be my first experience with building, but I have heard some good things about it. It would appear that mine has the deeper juice channels too, but i have nothingto compare to.

 

[DavidAmonettNashville]

This Coil wire I stole from an old Atlantis coil head has been outstanding...Did someone state that the coil wire they use is Ni-chrome?

 

[ThunderDan]

Atlantis coils use NR-R-NR. The resistance part could be nichrome I guess. Considering they come from China it wouldn't surprise me.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[DavidAmonettNashville]

Atlantis coils use NR-R-NR. The resistance part could be nichrome I guess. Considering they come from China it wouldn't surprise me.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I thought that the wire was made in the USA...Thought I'd heard that anyways

 

[ThunderDan]

I thought that the wire was made in the USA...Thought I'd heard that anyways

You're right, they do say that don't they.

 

[Taylor7617]

For those that rebuild OCC heads

Do you test fire your coils inside the casing? If so...isn't this basically the same process as dry-burning a used coil to remove any 'gunk' ?
If this was done at a lower wattage, using short bursts ...seems exactly the same. I ask, as I've read numerous times that these should not be dry-burned to clean coils ...but seen on a couple YouTube vids were this is done. Seems common assumption is to just recoil. But, if that is the case, how do you test your coil to ensure it's working properly. Maybe you use the RBA base before installing. Just curious. Ultimately my question relates to not scorching / burning the insulator.

For those that use Japanese Organic Cotton

Since I'm awaiting receipt of my first ST ...thought I'd also pick up some extras JOC. As I understand, there is a more dense outer layer. Is it a personal preference whether to use this or not? Is it possibly a bit more heat resistant that the inner? Does it allow more/less flow of the juice? I'm sure there are a ton of threads on this, but since this relates to wicking the ST thought maybe you all could weigh in on your thoughts.

Or is KGD a better medium?



Last question. Does using the RBA section of the ST Mini allow for less juice compared to OCC head/deck?




Thanks all.

 

[ThunderDan]

For those that rebuild OCC heads

Do you test fire your coils inside the casing? If so...isn't this basically the same process as dry-burning a used coil to remove any 'gunk' ?
If this was done at a lower wattage, using short bursts ...seems exactly the same. I ask, as I've read numerous times that these should not be dry-burned to clean coils ...but seen on a couple YouTube vids were this is done. Seems common assumption is to just recoil. But, if that is the case, how do you test your coil to ensure it's working properly. Maybe you use the RBA base before installing. Just curious. Ultimately my question relates to not scorching / burning the insulator.

For those that use Japanese Organic Cotton

Since I'm awaiting receipt of my first ST ...thought I'd also pick up some extras JOC. As I understand, there is a more dense outer layer. Is it a personal preference whether to use this or not? Is it possibly a bit more heat resistant that the inner? Does it allow more/less flow of the juice? I'm sure there are a ton of threads on this, but since this relates to wicking the ST thought maybe you all could weigh in on your thoughts.

Or is KGD a better medium?



Last question. Does using the RBA section of the ST Mini allow for less juice compared to OCC head/deck?




Thanks all.

1) I don't dry burn/test fire coils inside the casing for the reason you mentioned, melting that insulator. I was able to get 3-5 rewicks out of a stock OCC without dry burning. I think if you're careful it could be done, I just don't take the chance. As for testing it, I just put it on the base and put it on an ohm meter.

2) Mainly personal preference I believe. To me I think it wicks slightly faster when I remove it, but it might just be a placebo effect.

3) STmini has roughly the same juice capacity in either configuration.



Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[RandyF]

1) I don't dry burn/test fire coils inside the casing for the reason you mentioned, melting that insulator. I was able to get 3-5 rewicks out of a stock OCC without dry burning. I think if you're careful it could be done, I just don't take the chance. As for testing it, I just put it on the base and put it on an ohm meter.

2) Mainly personal preference I believe. To me I think it wicks slightly faster when I remove it, but it might just be a placebo effect.

3) STmini has roughly the same juice capacity in either configuration.



Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Agreed. Only difference is I never bother dry burning my coils to clean them, I just wrap a new one about once a week.

 

[Barryo]

For those that rebuild OCC heads

Do you test fire your coils inside the casing? If so...isn't this basically the same process as dry-burning a used coil to remove any 'gunk' ?
If this was done at a lower wattage, using short bursts ...seems exactly the same. I ask, as I've read numerous times that these should not be dry-burned to clean coils ...but seen on a couple YouTube vids were this is done. Seems common assumption is to just recoil. But, if that is the case, how do you test your coil to ensure it's working properly. Maybe you use the RBA base before installing. Just curious. Ultimately my question relates to not scorching / burning the insulator.

For those that use Japanese Organic Cotton

Since I'm awaiting receipt of my first ST ...thought I'd also pick up some extras JOC. As I understand, there is a more dense outer layer. Is it a personal preference whether to use this or not? Is it possibly a bit more heat resistant that the inner? Does it allow more/less flow of the juice? I'm sure there are a ton of threads on this, but since this relates to wicking the ST thought maybe you all could weigh in on your thoughts.

Or is KGD a better medium?



Last question. Does using the RBA section of the ST Mini allow for less juice compared to OCC head/deck?




Thanks all.

The OCC heads dry-burn just fine as-long-as you remove the cotton wick first. If they are really gunky, flush them out under running water after dry-burning to get rid of the gunk. I dry-burn every several days when I change the wick. The coils come out just like new.

I don't believe there is any danger of burning the insulator at the base of the head while dry-burning. The 1.2 ohm coil that came with my STmini had non-resistance legs on the coil so no danger of burning the insulator. I put in my own 2.0 ohm coil without non-resistance wire and after several dry-burnings have not noticed any burning on the insulator. To be on the safe side, I ordered a bunch of pre-made NR-R-NR coils from Fasttech.

 

[cigatron]

Any of you have probs with the insulators splitting when using larger than 28g? Mine do, even though I make sure the legs exit in/over the little slits at the bottom of the head. Maybe the pos pin in my base sticks up higher than most and over compresses the insulator....dunno.