Have to check one of these out been on the fence but what the hey! Sure I'll make them work good from the sounds of it something new for the collection
KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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Here you go again* Stop stirring the pot.
I dont think its wrong to want to receive what you ordered, and I think its great customer service they even gave you the option between the two (don't know of any other sites who do) which makes them pretty transparent and trustworthy in my book. It was probably an honest mistake on their behalf
I dont think its wrong to want to receive what you ordered, and I think its great customer service they even gave you the option between the two (don't know of any other sites who do) which makes them pretty transparent and trustworthy in my book. It was probably an honest mistake on their behalf
I'd say keep it and vape on...
I have 3 minis and one with the clear insulator, and they all work flawlessly... (I use the rba in all 3, can't get to use the OCC coils too much) I've only heard of one case of a problem with the clear insulator... When the mini first came out in "betas" there was rapid and quite numerous complaints with the white rba insulators... Kanger fixed the prob with the clear insulator and then made a tan (brownish) one to supply the mass production... IF there was a big problem with the clear ones, these forum pages would be full of people complaining about the clear ones being a problem... as I am sure they sold many thousands...At the end of the day, of course it's you call, but I'm pretty sure if you use it and something goes wrong, you could always contact your vendor and explain the sit.
As always, just my 2 cents...
my bad, thought it was clear, bad eyes, took it apart looks tan in color, bought it jan 27
Hey RandyF I had the same problem with my VaporShark rDNA40 all you have to do is take the coil or rba out of the deck then take a q-tip and push it down so you can just pull it out. I just switched mine out with the spring loaded pin out of my big 25mm kanger sub tank and believe it or not they both work great in the VaporShark now....go figure..
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We seriously did open the whole case full, but not just to measure the juice channels. The store owner wanted to check all the insulator's color and tighten all of the positive airtube stems too. All known issues with the device were addressed. Super good people wanting their customers to have the best out of box experience. Maybe that's why their store is packed all the time. What the heck, I got a free bottle of juice for giving them a heads up and satisfied my ocd cravings.
Yes, I had doubts about consistency of the juice channels from posts in this thread. I was unable to reach the power levels others were at; turned out to be under wicking.
Now it makes more sense. Excellent customer service.
I also am putting more cotton into my RBA wick than I used to do on my other RBAs. I mean, tight in the coil...it's just perfect. Was vaping at 33.5 watts last night...no dry hits. I usually keep it around 25-27w though. Sometimes down to 22 just for a different vape experience (depending on the juice ratio).
I have ordered a RBA deck for my Delta 2. I will use the same theory of wicking on that. I noticed the juice channels on it are quite a bit larger than the STmini channels. I really don't like their prebuilt heads with the 'mystery' wick.
DP, when you get your D2 RBA could you take a pic of, or measure, the width and height of the juice channels in comparison to the STmini? I'm curious about the relationship between the width and height of juice channels. Just want to confirm some suspicions.
TECHIE STUFFBeen looking into the science and math regarding the availability of juice to the wick in these kayfun style rtas. Example, why does my Lemo rock at 45w while I'm limited with the mini to around 30w even with the same airflow settings and juice type.
The pic and chart below should make it evident that enlarging the size of the juice channels in a given rta may not stop dryhits but rather drop the level of juice in the channel too far making it more difficult for the wick to pick it up. I say "may" because if the channels were too narrow to begin with there may be room for improvement on flow by widening the channels a little but going too wide will drop the juice level too far and run the wick dry.
The chart on the right shows some really tall meniscus heights in mm, far exceeding the height of our juice channels, but we need to remember that there are other factors to consider; the vacuum in the tank is in constant opposition to the capillary effect in the juice channels and the viscosity of our juice far exceeds that of water.
Tried to keep it simple here; no math. Just trying to ..... your brains a little. Hehe.
Good luck,
Cig
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Here you go again* Stop stirring the pot.
I dont think its wrong to want to receive what you ordered, and I think its great customer service they even gave you the option between the two (don't know of any other sites who do) which makes them pretty transparent and trustworthy in my book. It was probably an honest mistake on their behalf
Im sure it was a mistake. I order from there often and have always got great service... I just am on the fence cuz no matter who you order from returns SUCK! lol... mayne if I was more patient it wouldn't suck so much... waiting is not one of my strong suits...
Been looking into the science and math regarding the availability of juice to the wick in these kayfun style rtas. Example, why does my Lemo rock at 45w while I'm limited with the mini to around 30w even with the same airflow settings and juice type.
The pic and chart below should make it evident that enlarging the size of the juice channels in a given rta may not stop dryhits but rather drop the level of juice in the channel too far making it more difficult for the wick to pick it up. I say "may" because if the channels were too narrow to begin with there may be room for improvement on flow by widening the channels a little but going too wide will drop the juice level too far and run the wick dry.
View attachment 412319View attachment 412320
The chart on the right shows some really tall meniscus heights in mm, far exceeding the height of our juice channels, but we need to remember that there are other factors to consider; the vacuum in the tank is in constant opposition to the capillary effect in the juice channels and the viscosity of our juice far exceeds that of water.
Tried to keep it simple here; no math. Just trying to ..... your brains a little. Hehe.
Good luck,
Cig
Ahhhh...very enlightening.
You ARE elfin with my brain! LOL
These are under "no pressure" (other than normal atmosphere) I assume. More like sticking a fat straw and a thin straw into a glass of water in an open room. The question I have is when the pressure does change (after a draw) and it attempts to restabilize - is a thin capillary apt to level out (replenish) juice to the deck any faster or at a higher volume than a wider capillary? That is probably what this is showing, not sure.
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Yep, the chart values dictate that the reservoir and tube opening are at the same pressure. Any pressure. Your a thinker DP. Your question about replenishment of the juice based on channel size is a complicated one. I'll pm you to keep from derailing the thread.
Not to confuse the subject even more, but why can I get similar vapor production at lower power in the Subtank Mini vs. the Atlantis? Same build, same resistance, same juice, same wicking material, lower power, same vapor volume, better flavor?
Not apples to apples comparison? Vertical coil in the Atlantis vs. horizontal in the STm.
this, and my theory would be that the atlantis coil uses nr-r-nr wire, which means it has a much wider area to cool. Ergo, takes mroe power to heat and stay hot.
Maybe some of you veteran vapers can help a brother out...been using a nautilus mini for a month now on a 20W istick, at 1.7Ohms and 14.5 watts, and have been very happy, with great flavor. Just got the subtank mini with a 30W istick, and no matter what I do, (OCC coils, both the 1.2 and the .5, the RBA) and no matter the wattage, tried everything from 14.5 to 30 and everything in between, I am barely getting any flavor...nothing compared to the nautilus mini. Tried a bunch of different liquids as well....vapor is great, no dry hits, etc, but absolutely no flavor. Watching all the online reviews, the subtank seems to be the flavor king, so something is definitely wrong. Any thoughts?
Idk why ur flavors arent coming through but I was on the naut mini and I can't use it anymore now that I have the subtank, I like the rba better(depending on coil & wick) than the occ
Flavor potential is certainly there with the STm. Maybe vapor's tongue?
Flavor peaks with all my devices at the wattage setting where vapor output is the coolest. That's the temp where the most complete vaporization is occurring. Like sweat evaporating from your skin when you step out into the breeze.
Too high wattage; the vape gets hot and diffuses flavor. Introduces burny taste when overly high.
Too low wattage insufficiently vaporizes the juice. Boils it instead and goes hot with little flavor and an added harshness and throat hit.
Get the wattage just right your vape turns cool and flavor blows your lid off.
That magic place can occur in a very tight wattage window depending on juice. Sometimes just plus or minus 2watts can cause a discernable diff in flavor.
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Ok, I'll play around with it some more. What have you guys found to be the sweet spot for say a 50/50 juice? Not sure about vapors tongue, since on the nautilus Im getting great flavor....I was thinking the flavor is more "diffused" because there is so much more airflow. What I will say is that on the tightest setting the flavor is a tad stronger than wide open, but still weak. Appreciate the insight boys, will continue to try and figure things out.
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