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oplholik

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Coil set to low, maybe ends of wick could use some trimming as it looks heavy on deck.
I have used both rayon and kgd but I'm leaning toward kgd for better results at this point in time

Should the wick be trimmed up a little shorter, and possibly so it comes straight down, and not fan out?
 

cigatron

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I'm putting up pics of my build in case someone sees something that shouldn't be. This is the way I build my cloned KFL's, and I don't have a problem, but may need to do something different with the ST. The coil is a 5/64" 1.25Ω and using rayon for the wick.

View attachment 420235 View attachment 420236

As vin said, coil set too low. Bottom of coil should be even with top of screw towers. Wicking density looks good for cc rayon. Fanning the tails out more than required to clear the juice channel doesn't help anything. Actually reduces juice transport speed to coil imo.

Coil dia (2mm) is good for lower wattage and mtl hitting with the afc set on single hole setting.

Lung hitting requires a larger coil 2.5-3.0mm and afc set to 2-hole or slot setting imo. 25-30w works good on this device set up that way with 65-70vg.
 

cigatron

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Vapor and flavor finally tailed off after 95ml! I can live with that peeps!!

IMG_20150317_171324_799.jpg
 

USMCotaku

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Nope I haven't, I don't think that's the issue. Cos I rebuild myself and still can't outperform his occ. I think it's the rdna have the overhead wattage. But if that the case, is there any chance to perform better on my subtank? I mean what build I can do for my rba or else?


It could also be due to the voltage regulation between the two mods.
Have you tried building a twisted wire coil? I did a dual strand 28 gauge twisted wire on an occ head with great success flavor wise
 

FleetFoxes

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So I got my Subtank yesterday and it's pretty damn incredible. I've gone through 4 tank fulls since then! I'm almost afraid to say this and am going to knock on a lot of wood, but I'm not having any leaking issues like I was worried about. I don't really drag it too hard so maybe that could be some of the problem? I'm also using 75% PG juice in it so it's pretty thin. I'm using the 0.5Ohm OCC in it, but when that is due for replacement I'm going to be using the RBA.
 

USMCotaku

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Well, I was hoping I had the leaking thru the air holes solved, but apparently not. I know everything inside is tight, I haven't had it apart since I re wicked it and made sure everything was hand tight. It was good for a few days, now it is gurgling when I take a draw on it, and leaking thru the air holes. I guess the final and last step is to take it apart again and replace all the O-rings. I hope that fixes it. I dunno, I don't think I'll be getting another one at this point.


I would focus on your build and wicking. I have zero leaking issues with mine, full tank to empty
 

vincom

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So I got my Subtank yesterday and it's pretty damn incredible. I've gone through 4 tank fulls since then! I'm almost afraid to say this and am going to knock on a lot of wood, but I'm not having any leaking issues like I was worried about. I don't really drag it too hard so maybe that could be some of the problem? I'm also using 75% PG juice in it so it's pretty thin. I'm using the 0.5Ohm OCC in it, but when that is due for replacement I'm going to be using the RBA.
never had a leak issue w/rba no matter what i did.
once u go rba u cant go back
 

ahmadmfz

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am I the only one having issues with the base not making contact with the coils/RBA?

had to back out the plug on the coil that CAME INSIDE the tank and had to fiddle with the bottom of the RBA section.

big subtank didn't have this issue.
You are definitely not the only one. My rdna refuses to fire the RBA, nickel or kanthal. It's not that I'm building it wrong; used an ohms meter to check and it registers 0.12 on nickel. Any quick fixes to make the rba contact the base? I hate rebuilding on OCC.
 

DP2Raja

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You are definitely not the only one. My rdna refuses to fire the RBA, nickel or kanthal. It's not that I'm building it wrong; used an ohms meter to check and it registers 0.12 on nickel. Any quick fixes to make the rba contact the base? I hate rebuilding on OCC.

Make sure the stem/positive pin at the bottom of the RBA is seated tight into the the deck. I was getting fluctuating readings on the ohms, and "no atomizer" indicated on my mod, so I unscrewed the RBA, stuck a small screw driver through the air holes on the stem and tightened real good. Problem solved.
 

Fegbri

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Just received another mini today in the mail. Rba has channels all the way through. My last is half way and it has the tan insulator my other has clear. I'll see if those juice channels make much of a difference.

Did it have the black o rings also? If so, what vendor did you use? Looking forward to o order a 2nd mini, but definitely want to make sure it is the latest with PEEK, cut holes and black o's
 

rowsley

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Did it have the black o rings also? If so, what vendor did you use? Looking forward to o order a 2nd mini, but definitely want to make sure it is the latest with PEEK, cut holes and black o's
Didn't have black o rings.
I ordered from sweet vapes. They have the colored o rings though, Well here in the next few days they will I'm pretty sure. The black may still be in stock I haven't looked
 

Kevin H

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Well......Something strange happened in the week that I had put my SubTank Mini down and didn't use it. It WORKS NOW! I guess that the juice just sitting in there for a week did something, and now it tastes MUCH BETTER. Now, my only issue is with it leaking. It leaks a bit when it's full (you can feel it on the glass tank), and when it gets low (not completely empty), it looks like it's leaking from the bottom. It's too bad, because I really like how the heads make the juice taste.
 

vincom

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my next buy, the lemo 2, all the reasons why i never wanted the lemo 1 have been addressed.
but its not out yet, patience! damn!




This looks great! Of course I literally just got my Lemo Drop (which is amazing) today... I am not worried about the side fill, Eleaf knows what they are doing and wouldn't put it in if it wasn't foolproof. The only complaint I have is not being able to access the build deck with a full tank. The kayfun killed it in that aspect.
ok so not everything i wanted i'll wait for lemo 3
 
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Darryl Licht

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Didn't have black o rings.
I ordered from sweet vapes. They have the colored o rings though, Well here in the next few days they will I'm pretty sure. The black may still be in stock I haven't looked

Odd... my colorful o-ring set came with black, clear, baby blue, and purple.

I think it will be a great way for those that own multiple stm's to tell them apart. That's what I'll do at least!
 

ahmadmfz

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Make sure the stem/positive pin at the bottom of the RBA is seated tight into the the deck. I was getting fluctuating readings on the ohms, and "no atomizer" indicated on my mod, so I unscrewed the RBA, stuck a small screw driver through the air holes on the stem and tightened real good. Problem solved.
Hey thanks man, it worked a treat. Cheers!
 

ahmadmfz

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Well I just got my STM from a b&m. It has extra black O rings and also the new RBA design? With the better juice channels and also new insulators (grayish?)

And does anyone experience TP hitting in early on nickel using the RBA? Mine keeps throttling even though wicking wise it is superb without any burnt taste.
 
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cigatron

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Well I just got my STM from a b&m. It has extra black O rings and also the new RBA design? With the better juice channels and also new insulators (grayish?)

And does anyone experience TP hitting in early on nickel using the RBA? Mine keeps throttling even though wicking wise it is superb without any burnt taste.

Better juice channels? In what way?

Grayish/tan insulator is the newest version. All good there.

Throttling/early TP = underwicked. Cotton should be tight in coil, tails just grazing the deck and juice channels clear.
 
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