KangerTech SUBTANK Mini

[Govols]

No, kinda want one, but can't justify the cost when what I have has worked so well..... If one breaks though.....

I hear ya...my only gripe (if you can even call it that) is all the refilling. All the online reviews look very good on the Plus. I'll end up getting one...just a question of when. Taking your advice I think i'll try the 80 VG on the .5 OTC and see how i like it... I'll wait on the 100 until I learn to rebuild.

 

[janne303]

My mini leaks from the ring. It can be moved more than my subtank plus ring.

 

[oplholik]

I have been running the rda head on one of my mechanicals built to 1.5Ω. Nice s/u for me. I am considering getting a pack of OCC heads, and rebuilding those to the same as my RDA, + about 2.5Ω for use on a Provari using 29 or 30g Kanthal, and full contact coils. This seems like the cheaper way to go rather than buying spare RDA heads in case a head needs to be replaced. Does this make sense to anyone but me?

 

[USMCotaku]

I have been running the rda head on one of my mechanicals built to 1.5Ω. Nice s/u for me. I am considering getting a pack of OCC heads, and rebuilding those to the same as my RDA, + about 2.5Ω for use on a Provari using 29 or 30g Kanthal, and full contact coils. This seems like the cheaper way to go rather than buying spare RDA heads in case a head needs to be replaced. Does this make sense to anyone but me?

The occ heads are really simple to rebuild... In some ways easier then the rba.... I've learned through trial and error that you've gotta tuck the wick tails in to the holes line they come stock. 3mm ID is perfect for them, and a 3mm bit will fit through the wick holes to hold the coil in place while trimming and securing the legs

 

[serenity21899]

I'll be honest, I didn't take the time to read 2200ish posts before posting myself. I have 2 sub tank mini and love them. However, on one of them my afc is now spinning and not locking into place. I'm not sure if this occurred due to dropping it, or just plain useage, but it's slightly annoying.

Has this happened to anyone else? And has anyone fixed this issue?

 

[oplholik]

Haven't had that problem, but I think there is a fix in this thread somewhere if I remember correctly, also Sweet Vapes has replacements.

 

[serenity21899]

Haven't had that problem, but I think there is a fix in this thread somewhere if I remember correctly, also Sweet Vapes has replacements.

Thank you.

 

[Mowgli]

I'll be honest, I didn't take the time to read 2200ish posts before posting myself. I have 2 sub tank mini and love them. However, on one of them my afc is now spinning and not locking into place. I'm not sure if this occurred due to dropping it, or just plain useage, but it's slightly annoying.

Has this happened to anyone else? And has anyone fixed this issue?

Haven't had that problem, but I think there is a fix in this thread somewhere if I remember correctly, also Sweet Vapes has replacements.

nice price too - Subtank Base Airflow Controller

 

[oplholik]

Yeah, I have two of them, just in case, along with an extra rba head, a bunch of gaskets, several glass tubes, and insulators. I'm also getting another sub tank tomorrow. I'm all set.

 

[tehmidcap]

The gf and I own a total of 3 Mini's and a fourth on the way. With the first one I bought I got the colored O-Ring set as well as a pack of 1.2 coils (along with what comes with these I will probably have a bunch of coils that will go forever unused).

I think all we need is a couple airflow control bases and a couple replacement RBA heads and we should be Subtanking for years.

 

[oplholik]

Along with the new mini, that will give me 4 occ heads to rebuild to suit me, so I should be good to go for quite some time also. Need a place to get extra of those rubber insulators for the bottom of the occ heads.

 

[oplholik]

Bingo! I thought I remembered buying a bunch of grommets that fit the old Drunker tank, and I just found em, and hey whaddya know, they fit.

 

[tehmidcap]

The occ heads are really simple to rebuild... In some ways easier then the rba.... I've learned through trial and error that you've gotta tuck the wick tails in to the holes line they come stock. 3mm ID is perfect for them, and a 3mm bit will fit through the wick holes to hold the coil in place while trimming and securing the legs

How the heck do you get the little top off the OCCs? I've rebuilt two so far just leaving them on (just to have on me in case I get a wicking problem or something with RBA while at work)... But I tried pulling the head off using two pairs of pliers to no avail. All I managed to do was scratch up my coil head.

I was going to try a vertical build (arctic style) but taking the top off would make that a whole lot easier.

 

[oplholik]

I took one off today w/ pliers, and it twisted out fairly easy.

 

[USMCotaku]

How the heck do you get the little top off the OCCs? I've rebuilt two so far just leaving them on (just to have on me in case I get a wicking problem or something with RBA while at work)... But I tried pulling the head off using two pairs of pliers to no avail. All I managed to do was scratch up my coil head.

I was going to try a vertical build (arctic style) but taking the top off would make that a whole lot easier.

Don't pull the top off! Yes they are press fitted and in theory should come off, but the body will often crack. Just pull the bottom pin and grommet, pull out old coil through the bottom with pliers. Clean and dry, then put in new coil legs first through the chimney hole. Run whatever you wrapped your coil on (assuming 3mm or smaller, 3mm seems best) through one wick hole, then through your coil inside, and out the other wick hole. This holds your coil in place and aligned with the holes while reinserting the grommet and pin and trimming the legs. Make sure to trim the legs as close as possible, any sticking out will make inserting into the sub tank base difficult. After that, pull out your bit (or whatever you wrapped on) and wick.

 

[oplholik]

You are right USMC, really no reason to pull the top off. I realized that after I took the top off mine.

 

[Psofos]

I'll be honest, I didn't take the time to read 2200ish posts before posting myself. I have 2 sub tank mini and love them. However, on one of them my afc is now spinning and not locking into place. I'm not sure if this occurred due to dropping it, or just plain useage, but it's slightly annoying.

Has this happened to anyone else? And has anyone fixed this issue?

You've lost the little metal ball bearing,propably while cleaning it. It's a very small metal ball that helps to lock it in place. You might find a similar if you see the size of the hole where it sits.

 

[Nailz]

Don't pull the top off! Yes they are press fitted and in theory should come off, but the body will often crack. Just pull the bottom pin and grommet, pull out old coil through the bottom with pliers. Clean and dry, then put in new coil legs first through the chimney hole. Run whatever you wrapped your coil on (assuming 3mm or smaller, 3mm seems best) through one wick hole, then through your coil inside, and out the other wick hole. This holds your coil in place and aligned with the holes while reinserting the grommet and pin and trimming the legs. Make sure to trim the legs as close as possible, any sticking out will make inserting into the sub tank base difficult. After that, pull out your bit (or whatever you wrapped on) and wick.

Agreed, 1st one I rebuilt, I tried to pull the top off, the body didn't crack, the top didn't come off, but I did snap the 510 screw thread off the head, after that I decided it wasn't really needed for the trouble and did the way you posted.

 

[serenity21899]

You've lost the little metal ball bearing,propably while cleaning it. It's a very small metal ball that helps to lock it in place. You might find a similar if you see the size of the hole where it sits.

I'm just going to replace the base as suggested. I'm too old to be messing with stuff that small.

 

[oplholik]

I just finished rebuilding the 2 occ heads, and success, I think, have to go get another mini at the B&M a little later to try one in. I built it to go on my Provari P3 using 30g Kanthal, 3mm I.D. I was shooting for 2.5Ω and got 2.7 - 2.8 Ω. Close enough for now I think. The first one I did was a lot of futzing around getting the coil to stay centered and straight to the side holes, but finally got it. The second one went much easier. So will test one later today when I get the tank.