That's a lot of wraps for .5ohm, looks like 8 wraps. Wonder what gauge that wire is and how small the ID of the coil is.
Good luck! 
Yep, you start having problems with juice flow above 2.5mm at any significant power over 18W. I drill out channels and a matching notch on the v1 RDA cylinders for about a 1/16" Ø port to support flow up to 25W with as dense as 3mm coils (2.75mm the ideal for Nextel). To give these enough air you can drill out the RDA 510 contact pin holes a bit at a time to match the fluid flow. A bit tedious without a Dremmel but can be done using some fine diamond and metal round files with a bit of patience. Pays dividends.
The killer was the change to the new RDA. This latter design tends to diffuse vapor far more regardless of wind than the base channel version. It's difficult to work at any power level and dries out spontaneously just as often as it over saturates. But trying to sort out some workarounds at the moment.
Have a merry C.
I have a couple of them, a white one and a silver one. I don't use them anymore. I use the silver ones base to clean/rebuild my coils for my NEBOX since it's all internal. They use the same RBA deck and pre-built coils.I use twisted 28ga. with a 2.5 ID. 4-5 wraps gets me .5-.7 ohms. I might be +/- on the gauge as I havn't had to build one in months. I've tried many, many single-strand coils with the RBA and they either run too hot, heat-up too quickly or heat up too slowly. My twisted coils seem to strike just the right balance of heat, vapor and flavor.
Slightly off topic... I was in a local brick and mortar yesterday. As I was scanning their atomizer offerings and spied a red box with a Kanger logo and pic of what appeared to be a Subtank mini on it. I almost couldn't contain myself as I asked the clerk to see it. Turns out it was just a regular Subtank and not a mini.
I was in a local brick and mortar yesterday. As I was scanning their atomizer offerings and spied a red box with a Kanger logo and pic of what appeared to be a Subtank mini on it. I almost couldn't contain myself as I asked the clerk to see it. Turns out it was just a regular Subtank and not a mini.
Or buy an authentic $5 base, $1 bell cap and an authentic $6 RBA from Fasttech. Done for $9-ish all in with the SANTACLAUS code.The STM (authentic) is still available at FT.
For starters, space your coils. Coils that close hold the heat in. This is a good thing with mech mods when ramp up is a challenge, but completely unnecessary on a regulated box. Your coils also look to be getting hotter on one side. They should heat from the center out. Chances are you're not getting a dry hit, but a hot leg... almost as nasty...Man, I'm doing something wrong then... if I eek up much over 11W in my NEBOX, it burns after a few 5 second pulls. I usually keep at at 10.5W. Right now, the coil I have is about 3mm ID with 8-9 wraps (can't remember), the NEBOX says it's 1.15ohm and 3.45-3.5V when in use. I've enlarged the channels quite a bit and lessened the amount of cotton bacon wick I use, which seemed to help.
Maybe I should try a lower PG juice? I've been using Mech sauce 80/20 6mg Ape Frenzy for the past 6 months.
I use similar coils (couple more wraps per coil) in my Avocado dual coil on an Eleaf iStick 100W box. It says .78ohm, 4V and 21W.
In both devices with how I have them, I can go 4-5 days before the wick gets bad tasting. I dry burn the coils and hit them with cold water to clean them, then re-wick.
This is my avocado, don't have a recent photo of my nebox:
I have more than a few (12) authentic and enough bases, RBA's and bell caps to make at least 15 more, and will order more bases and RBA's tomorrow. (Ya never can tell, ya know
) 
The RBA Plus is quite small. But there are some workarounds. Dont use the RBA V1 (bottom feed, no holes on the sides). Make sure you use the RBA Plus V1 with the larger juiceholes. When using the RBA Plus V2 or the Toptank RBA with even smalller holes, either drill them out or get some caps from RBA Plus clones that have the right sized holes.
