Kanthol vs Nichrome???

[release the kraken]

I did a search on the forum for nichrome, and saw some people say they use it, but I was unable to find any discussions directly discussing why one would. So my questions:

1. Is there even a difference between the two or is it just name brand like coke vs pepsi?
2. Are there any quality differences, longer lasting, more solid construction?
3. Easier to coil?
4. Better resistance more/less with per coil count or no difference?
5. Is there any specific reason why someone would buy one over the other?

If this has already been covered to death and my search just didn’t bring up the right threads, feel free to just link to the ecf thread.

Cheers

 

[AlanWoltemath]

check out these 2 links to compare, my preference is Kanthal after comparing them myself
Nichrome Wire
Kanthal A1

 

[release the kraken]

Thanks much sir. And thanks for your testimonial about which one you prefer. So thats one vote Kanthol...

I have read those previously and temco is going to be where I end up purchasing bulk. They also have a great write up on the flat kanthol and how it directly relates to vaping Flat Ribbon Kanthal and its potential advantages over the normal round.

To be a little more specific I am looking for a direct side by side comparison of kanthol vs nichrome as I am not an electrician I do not trust myself to go back and forth between descriptions and correctly compare each spec. Additional testimonials of one over the other are always welcomed.

 

[Zipp]

I like wrapping microcoils with nichrome. The lower resistance lets me add a few more wraps without going to a bigger wire gauge which takes longer to heat. For regular coils I prefer kanthal for the opposite reason - fewer wraps needed to hit the target resistance.

 

[release the kraken]

I like wrapping microcoils with nichrome. The lower resistance lets me add a few more wraps without going to a bigger wire gauge which takes longer to heat. For regular coils I prefer kanthal for the opposite reason - fewer wraps needed to hit the target resistance.

Thanks @zipp so less wraps with kanthol a-1 vs more wraps with nichrome = same resistance?

Has anyone come across a good "chart" or rule of thumb of (x) amount of wraps at (y) gauge generally produces (z) ohms?

 

[fourtytwo]

Kanthal is a brand name of a resistance wire. Kanthal
Nichrome is an alloy of Nickel and Chromium and often Iron that is used in resistance wire. Nichrome - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A good source of Nichrome wire is a good hobby shop that deals with model trains. Nichrome is used in the foam cutters often used to make the layout. Hot Wire Foam Cutter - SubTerrain Lightweight Layout System® - Woodland Scenics - Model Layouts, Scenery, Buildings and Figures

 

[fourtytwo]

Thanks @zipp so less wraps with kanthol a-1 vs more wraps with nichrome = same resistance?

Has anyone come across a good "chart" or rule of thumb of (x) amount of wraps at (y) gauge generally produces (z) ohms?

This may be a bit more detailed then a simple chart but is very useful.

http://heatingelements.hitempproduc...l-Furnace-Mini-Handbook---Metric-version-.pdf

 

[Zipp]

There's no need for a chart. The resistance of the wire in ohms per foot (or inch) should be mentioned on the site you bought it from. Figure out the resistance you want, cut a piece big enough to give slightly higher resistance (to make up for the part you attach to the posts), and wrap it up. The actual number of coils doesn't really matter. Since every manufacturer's wire is a little different, you'll have to get a feel for the particular wire that you bought.

The reason why I try for more wraps when making microcoils is that they're so small that most of the wick is basically wasted. The more wick your coil is in contact with, the better it'll perform. With regular coils, you can just spread them out a bit to make sure you're not creating small dry/burnt spots in the middle of the wick when you vape.

 

[release the kraken]

Thanks @zipp and @fourtytwo.

I guess I just see everyone "measuring" their rebuilds as 4-5 coils and they get certain ohms vs adding one more coil and then they get more ohms is why I was looking for a coil number to ohm type chart. Breaking it down to the basic fundamental fact that its simply the length of wire was very helpful.

 

[locke2121]

With me it was a taste choice. To me, Kanthal, once its broken in, has a sweeter and less metallic taste. But like with this entire deal..taste is subjective.

 

[fourtytwo]

I find the best way is to use a multimeter. You do have one don't you? If not, get one asap.
Pull out a length of wire and touch the two probes to the wire, an inch or two apart. Look at the ohm reading. Move the probes closer or farther apart until you have the target ohm level you want. That is the length of wire that must be between the terminals in order to have the resistance you are aiming for.

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

Great, accurate and useful information from fourtytwo. Kanthal is not a type of wire but the name of a manufacturer who makes resistance wire. They make several different alloys, and nickel chromium is one of them.

I also endorse the idea of knowing exactly how much wire you need to achieve the target resistance. That trick of measuring the desired length by moving the probes closer or farther apart is spot on. No wasted wire and nearly perfect resistance every time.

 

[EmeraldLeo1982]

As far as I know there couldn't be such a chart that would tell you ohms per wrap because everybodies wrap is different, flaws, kinks, wrap diameter, etc. Best method is "Ohms/ft divided by 12" then figure out how many inches of wire you need, and wrap whatever type of coil you're looking to make that fits in your atty, and hit it with a multimeter to make sure it won't kill your battery or your throat.

 

[release the kraken]

I find the best way is to use a multimeter. You do have one don't you? If not, get one asap.
Pull out a length of wire and touch the two probes to the wire, an inch or two apart. Look at the ohm reading. Move the probes closer or farther apart until you have the target ohm level you want. That is the length of wire that must be between the terminals in order to have the resistance you are aiming for.

I had seen another post where the person mentioned using the multimeter but I do not have one as I was just going to wrap and use my vv device to check final ohms. With trimming the ends after putting in the base post and rubber grommet (im doing this for kanger attys), I didn't know difficult the "pre" measure would be and getting it close after the final trim down. So off to amazon to get multimeter and it does make the most sense and easiest way not to waste wire.

 

[EmeraldLeo1982]

I find the best way is to use a multimeter. You do have one don't you? If not, get one asap.
Pull out a length of wire and touch the two probes to the wire, an inch or two apart. Look at the ohm reading. Move the probes closer or farther apart until you have the target ohm level you want. That is the length of wire that must be between the terminals in order to have the resistance you are aiming for.

How does the post removed resistance idea work with something like a clear where there is no posts. I have approximately 1.6ohms worth of wire coiled into my clearo but it's not the rebuildable/replaceable type so the leads just slip down into and get held in place by the silicon ring onto the firing pin. That's close to .75 inch of wire that's not coiled so am I actually vaping on like .9 ohms on my ego battery?

 

[fourtytwo]

I had seen another post where the person mentioned using the multimeter but I do not have one as I was just going to wrap and use my vv device to check final ohms. With trimming the ends after putting in the base post and rubber grommet (im doing this for kanger attys), I didn't know difficult the "pre" measure would be and getting it close after the final trim down. So off to amazon to get multimeter and it does make the most sense and easiest way not to waste wire.

A multimeter is like an xacto knife. You never know how useful it is until you have one.

How does the post removed resistance idea work with something like a clear where there is no posts. I have approximately 1.6ohms worth of wire coiled into my clearo but it's not the rebuildable/replaceable type so the leads just slip down into and get held in place by the silicon ring onto the firing pin. That's close to .75 inch of wire that's not coiled so am I actually vaping on like .9 ohms on my ego battery?

Same idea applies. If there are no posts, it is the length between where the wire makes electrical contact. In your case, it should be from the point where it contacts the centre post and the point where the other end contacts the body of the base.

 

[EmeraldLeo1982]

Hmm so I actually am vaping about 1 ohms on my ego batt, well so far so good no button or batt heating and no safety cutoff. Guess I got a good knockoff. Sorry for temporarily hijacking your thread OP.

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

How does the post removed resistance idea work with something like a clear where there is no posts. I have approximately 1.6ohms worth of wire coiled into my clearo but it's not the rebuildable/replaceable type so the leads just slip down into and get held in place by the silicon ring onto the firing pin. That's close to .75 inch of wire that's not coiled so am I actually vaping on like .9 ohms on my ego battery?

Resistance is measured across the total length of the conductor(s), not all of which may be resistance wire in some types of atomizers. In some types of atomizers, there may be a length of wire that provides very little resistance and is meant to carry current to the load itself. In most rebuildable systems, the load is the length of resistance wire.

Look at it like you'd look at your toaster. There are conductors that carry the current to a load, and that load converts the electrical energy into heat and light. Plug it in, mash the button and the resistance wire ribbons light up, creating heat that toasts the bread.

It's the same idea in an atomizer. Some atomizers have only resistance wire. Some have wire that conducts current to a set of posts, to which coiled and wicked resistance wire is attached. The total resistance of the circuit is found by putting your probes on the two circuit terminals. The total resistance of the load itself is found by putting your probes on the two ends of the wire carrying the load.

If you're rebuilding coils, you really do need a good multimeter. Don't rely on cheap potentiometers found in VV/VW devices. At least not for any long period of time. A good multimeter might set you back $30 or so, but you will be amazed at the multitude of things you can test and do with it. And not just PV related.

 

[ukeman]

fwiw some of the "micro coil" threads there are attempts to provide an approx. resistance for # of wraps, given specific gauge and type (k or nich) and importantly as well, diameter of the wick which affects the length of the wire.

nichrome will have less resistance than kanthal in same gauge.

good info in this thread.

 

[EmeraldLeo1982]

Yeah you could use it to like..umm test the voltage coming from your hair dryer, or vacuum, or uhh test batteries with it =D