kayfun base shorting out? not reading ohms, need help
- Thread starter RichRod
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Yes, not a short but an open circuit. Back out the center pin on the bottom just a hair. If you've been taking it all the way apart to clean - i.e. removing the bottom chamber - it's easy to screw it back in too far to make contact.
+1 for the center pin not making contact. I don't have a Kayfun (have considered it, however!) so I am not sure if the center post is adjustable. My guess is one of your other mods has a slightly longer center pin and has pushed the center pin on your mod down slightly.
This is why adjustable center pins on a topper are a "good thing."
IF the center block was touching the negative side he would read 0 ohms or a SHORT. Vamo would say Low ohms.
My MVP and Vamo work fine on every topper, except when my KFL+ came in. The 510 is too flush on the bottom of the KFL, and it's not adjustable on the lite version. Have to lift the mod pin a little, often enough I out the screwdriver on my key ring.
My mechs have floating pins so they don't have that problem. Fairly common issue on mvps and Vamos for KFL users.
My mechs have floating pins so they don't have that problem. Fairly common issue on mvps and Vamos for KFL users.
The center screw IS removable. You need the correct size slot screw driver and grab both the positive and negative posts with a pair of pliers.
ahh thanks, for some reason i thought it wasnt on the kfl+ but ill give this a shot
Well, waded through this and can say a few things.
1) A lot of people do not understand the difference between Shorting and Open circuits.
2) A few gave good advice as to the problem.
3) Some people have a hard time accepting Facts, even when it makes sense.
Vamo's.............eVics, Z-Max, Provari, etc., etc., etc. are NOT multimeters. They can all read a coils resistance, but ONLY it they are actually making Positive and Negative contact.
Even the great little ohm checkers are worthless if the connections are not made.
On the other hand, a multimeter can tell you instantly is the coil is properly connected and what the resistance is.
Kayfun is Steel Deck
Pin is Steel, Chromed Brass, Copper <i.e. METAL>
If the coil is properly secured between the (+) Block and the (-) Block and Not Broken it has a resistance. If you cannot read this resistance, you are not contacting the Plus and Minus sides or the Device - body and center pin.
search Vamo pin fix. Before the sub forums were archived we had a GOOD step -by-step on repairing the dropped pin issue. Cheap, simple and effective.
1) A lot of people do not understand the difference between Shorting and Open circuits.
2) A few gave good advice as to the problem.
3) Some people have a hard time accepting Facts, even when it makes sense.
Vamo's.............eVics, Z-Max, Provari, etc., etc., etc. are NOT multimeters. They can all read a coils resistance, but ONLY it they are actually making Positive and Negative contact.
Even the great little ohm checkers are worthless if the connections are not made.
On the other hand, a multimeter can tell you instantly is the coil is properly connected and what the resistance is.
Kayfun is Steel Deck
Pin is Steel, Chromed Brass, Copper <i.e. METAL>
If the coil is properly secured between the (+) Block and the (-) Block and Not Broken it has a resistance. If you cannot read this resistance, you are not contacting the Plus and Minus sides or the Device - body and center pin.
search Vamo pin fix. Before the sub forums were archived we had a GOOD step -by-step on repairing the dropped pin issue. Cheap, simple and effective.
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