When mine flood I turn em upside down and blow through the air hole. That usually takes care of the flooding. Just turn it back up and take a pull and watch for the bubble
Kayfun clone's leaking need help
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inksane.....give that device a tankful or two and I'll bet the funky taste disappears. I can not explain why, but it just works. Both of my Russians tasted like metal no matter how well cleaned but after a tank or two, no more taste other than juice.
I'll confirm regarding turning the device upside down and blowing through the mouthpiece. Works like a champ. Wait... I'm holding it upside down and blowing "up" from the mouthpiece through the air "intake".....
Give that
I'll confirm regarding turning the device upside down and blowing through the mouthpiece. Works like a champ. Wait... I'm holding it upside down and blowing "up" from the mouthpiece through the air "intake".....
Give that
Thanks I will give it a few tankfuls and hopefully it will get better tasting like you said.
Thanks for all of your help. I am trying to work the kinks out of this one so when my real Russian 91% gets delivered I will be a pro at building them lol
Hope I did help.....This stuff can be a bit vexing at times. BTW... where did you get your Russian 91%? Our local B & M has the full Russian, but they want too much for it. Rather get one online if possible.
For me I get leaking every time I try to just mold the cotton onto the deck like the almighty anointed one rip tripper shows. I put the ring over the cotton with it pulled vertically, snip it 1/4 inch above threaded down chimney ring, then use a tiny screwdriver to push the wick onto the base on each side. When I try to lay it on the base with the juice grooves completely open it floods every time no matter how full I fill it. Upside down burns, air hole pulls, all the unflooding tricks will clear it for 1-2 drags and then floods again evry time. Dont know how it works for ppl. This is on both a real kayfun light plus and clone russ 91
I am going to try that next build. I do like rip shows and just push it against the deck.
The easiest and most successful way for me to do my wick is to put the evaporation chamber (ring) over the cotton I've pulled through the coil and brought both ends straight up to put the chamber over and down onto the threads on the base. Once the chamber is screwed down securely, I cut the wick even with the top of the chamber. I then use a flat toothpick and carefully push the ends down toward the juice channels. By using the top of the chamber as a guide, the ends of the wick should just barely reach the channels. They are not in or across the channel. Just slightly above it. I then put drops of juice on the wick and to make sure the wick is working right, put a drop or two on each channel and see if it is taken up by the wick.
This way has worked fine for me. To me it is very easy to "over think" wicking the Kayfun devices. And as is always said with cotton, less is better.
Hope this was clear enough and that it helps....
This way has worked fine for me. To me it is very easy to "over think" wicking the Kayfun devices. And as is always said with cotton, less is better.
Hope this was clear enough and that it helps....
Generally speaking, it's not an o-ring leaking if it's coming out of the air hole. I have 4 KFL's from fasttech and not a one of them leak. I use 2mm hollow core ekowool in a figure 8, wrapped with 5 wraps of 30ga A1 Kanthal. This puts it at 1.6 ohms. It could go as high as 2.2 ohms too if you wrap the wick too loose, so make it a little tight. But not so much as to not let it wick through. Or you could just do 4 wraps. In my opinion KFLs aren't good for anything under 1.2 ohms. For me, they seem to perform best at 1.4 to 1.8. At these ohms they seem to Give the best vapor (though they aren't a vapor machine like an RDA) fantastic taste and a pretty mild to slightly warm vape.
I just measured all the O-rings and they are. All main O-rings . base, two on the tank and the one on the
outside of the top cap, measured .55in OD x .39in ID x .055thk
or
14mm x 10 x 1.4 silicone
the one in the top cap is .3in od or 7.62mm +or - a little due to use.
You could use these from fast tech 10mm * 1.5mm * 13mm for $0.73 bit of a stretch, but doing so, will thin out the thickness to the right size where it will all screw together and not leak.
Sadly, I couldn't find any there for the one inside the top cap for the chimney though.
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No it's too thick, and a bit too large. the below are the converted mm to the one you linked. I'm still looking on that site (started 2 days ago) and so far haven't found one that I'd feel comfortable with.
Your linked one is O-ring Size: 3/16"ID X 5/16"OD X 1/16 this converts to the bottom numbers in mm
4.76mm ID x 7.9375mm OD x 1.5875mm thk. OD is close though.
Heck if you can find others you want or need from that site, you could throw one in your cart and check it when it got to you. Not sure it'd be worth paying shipping charge on just one not knowing for sure if it would work or not though.
Found that link in a thread talking about 0-rings for a Russian 91% I believe. I just saved the link, not the thread link..... oops, can't go back and see what it was for.....
I do know some have had luck with the assortment boxes from Harbor Freight.... that will most likely be what I get when I need some....
I do know some have had luck with the assortment boxes from Harbor Freight.... that will most likely be what I get when I need some....
I ordered a complete I ring kit off eBay for like $8.xx including shipping. I just got it the other day so I haven't tried to see how it fits. Once I figure out all the sizes needed I am just going to buy a few of each size for way cheaper.
If you got the same one I did, inksane, they do fit. Mine also came with two insulators -- one for the 510 conn screw and one for under the pos. block.
I can confirm that they'll fit in the real KFL, KFL+ and R91. Somebody showed that link after I posted an Amazon link to a 100 pack of red o-rings I've been using with the same dimensions. Amazon.com: 008 Silicone O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Red, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 100): Industrial & Scientific
They are snug, but work just fine. Dunno about the clones or the new KFL+ where they changed the top cap slightly.
Bimini ... Are those O-rings you mentioned basically the same as the ones from the O-ring store? I think the ones you reference would hold up to some juices better, but I'm no materials engineer....lol.
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