Kayfun Lite - Whistling (non AFC version)
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Just set up my first Russian 91% last night. While blowing on the parts to blow any dust or stuff out of it, I blew through the drip tip. It IS a whistle.
Couple of things:
First - you should completely strip clean and inspect a New unit - Even if it looks spotless. No telling what may be hung inside a channel or hole. I have found plastic bits in every KayFun I own, down in the center post channel.
Second - Before reassembling, make a reference of the air hole opening in the center pin. When securing the pin, try to stop at a point where the opening aligns with the air shaft. This may reduce or stop whistling.
First - you should completely strip clean and inspect a New unit - Even if it looks spotless. No telling what may be hung inside a channel or hole. I have found plastic bits in every KayFun I own, down in the center post channel.
Second - Before reassembling, make a reference of the air hole opening in the center pin. When securing the pin, try to stop at a point where the opening aligns with the air shaft. This may reduce or stop whistling.
You could be right. Will check that 1st thing when I get home tonight.
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I thought the entire air shaft is round so it doesn't matter which way you turn the pin?
BTW are there any alternate drip tips I can use for the KF instead of the stock one?
1) Do everything crxess said.
2) I made little scratches on the underside of the KFL to line up with the groove in the 510 screw-head such that, in doing so, the screw's side holes would then line up with the air intake coming from the side of the atty.
3) I enlarged the air intake, and while I was there, went ahead and beveled its rim. Effectively smoothing out the air path a bit.
4) I also sanded smooth the centerpin side air holes just in case. They seemed a bit sharp to me.
Hard to say which of these (or combination of these) stopped my KFL from whistling. But it no longer whistles. So there you go.
2) I made little scratches on the underside of the KFL to line up with the groove in the 510 screw-head such that, in doing so, the screw's side holes would then line up with the air intake coming from the side of the atty.
3) I enlarged the air intake, and while I was there, went ahead and beveled its rim. Effectively smoothing out the air path a bit.
4) I also sanded smooth the centerpin side air holes just in case. They seemed a bit sharp to me.
Hard to say which of these (or combination of these) stopped my KFL from whistling. But it no longer whistles. So there you go.
folkphys,
how much did you enlarge the airhole by?
BTW, bevelling = countersunk hole right?
how much did you enlarge the airhole by?
BTW, bevelling = countersunk hole right?
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Enlarged it to 3/64" and countersunk (yes, beveling = countersunk) it with a 1/16".
Then last night I was feeling frisky so I enlarged it again this time to 1/16" and countersunk with a 5/64". Then I went ahead and enlarged the centerpost holes to 1/16". 600 grit wet sandpaper on the holes afterwards. Now it breathes near as wide open as a Fogger and certainly equal to my R91. I have to primer-pull it to get it going upon refill, but once it is primed it sure vapes reeeeaaal nice.
Then last night I was feeling frisky so I enlarged it again this time to 1/16" and countersunk with a 5/64". Then I went ahead and enlarged the centerpost holes to 1/16". 600 grit wet sandpaper on the holes afterwards. Now it breathes near as wide open as a Fogger and certainly equal to my R91. I have to primer-pull it to get it going upon refill, but once it is primed it sure vapes reeeeaaal nice.
Hmm, I tried the countersinking "fix" last night with my dremel. No joy, still getting mad whistling. I even ran some wet thread through the air hole to clean it of any shavings.
I may just have to go ahead and enlarge the hole with an actual drill bit. I don't mind an airy sound, but the whistle is obnoxious lol
I may just have to go ahead and enlarge the hole with an actual drill bit. I don't mind an airy sound, but the whistle is obnoxious lol
Could be the center pin. I took sandpaper to it after I noticed how sharply and sloppily its holes were cut. I also used a tiny flathead screw driver to knock off any metal shavings left hanging at the drill exit points inside (center pin and deck). Plus I used the same tiny screw driver to ream out all the airways.
perhaps, simply having such a small (from the factory) air intake creates a whistle no matter how clean and smooth the entries, exits and pathways are.
perhaps, simply having such a small (from the factory) air intake creates a whistle no matter how clean and smooth the entries, exits and pathways are.
I am really eager to try out your suggestions but can't can only do it during the weekend 
Oh well...
Anyway, have any of you guys noticed when putting back the center pin, it has the tendency to screw in a little crooked, just a tad, which in my Kayfun clone, always ends up shorting out.
I have to unscrew and re-screw it again, sometimes several times just to get it right. The "tolerances" seem a little to tight for comfort. I have also noticed that the center hole is a little rough on the inside. Quite scary as I use a mech mod with unprotected batteries.
Not sure what you guys make of it?
Oh well...Anyway, have any of you guys noticed when putting back the center pin, it has the tendency to screw in a little crooked, just a tad, which in my Kayfun clone, always ends up shorting out.
I have to unscrew and re-screw it again, sometimes several times just to get it right. The "tolerances" seem a little to tight for comfort. I have also noticed that the center hole is a little rough on the inside. Quite scary as I use a mech mod with unprotected batteries.
Not sure what you guys make of it?
Definitely noticed the oversized 510 screw head on a buddy's KFL, which even when aligned perfectly straight, made me worry. So I gave him a handful of sandpaper and told him that if the thing ever started shorting out on him to go ahead and shrink that sucker's diameter. Would take a while, but worth it unless you get a spare from some other clone that is smaller. You could also try shoving a tiny o-ring around the 510 screw head -- this was a good temporary fix for the infamous Fogger shorting fiasco.
I would guess however, that you are a victim of an ever-so-slight machine misalignment. It could either be the center pin itself or the positive terminal block. Either way, a decent replacement of one or both of those parts should forever solve your problem.
As for the rough-on-the-inside center hole, you could wrap a small piece of high grit wet sandpaper around a screw driver and ream it out, or scrape every surface in there that you can with the end of a tiny flat head screwdriver.
I would guess however, that you are a victim of an ever-so-slight machine misalignment. It could either be the center pin itself or the positive terminal block. Either way, a decent replacement of one or both of those parts should forever solve your problem.
As for the rough-on-the-inside center hole, you could wrap a small piece of high grit wet sandpaper around a screw driver and ream it out, or scrape every surface in there that you can with the end of a tiny flat head screwdriver.
Ok screwed up big time this evening!
Tried boring out the airhole, turned out to be a ..... to drill to say the least. Melted 2 drill bits, broke the tip of another near the airhole opening. Now the airhole is blocked with no way of getting the broken piece out
I will bring it down to a machinist tomorrow to see if he can help me out. Keeping my fingers crossed. Hope I don't have to buy another one as the current one is only less then a week old
Tried boring out the airhole, turned out to be a ..... to drill to say the least. Melted 2 drill bits, broke the tip of another near the airhole opening. Now the airhole is blocked with no way of getting the broken piece out
I will bring it down to a machinist tomorrow to see if he can help me out. Keeping my fingers crossed. Hope I don't have to buy another one as the current one is only less then a week old
Oh my. Sorry to hear that. I should have mentioned this earlier and now I'm extra sorry that I did not, but it is one of those platitudes you learn from machinists that seems to always go-without-saying.......LUBE. Must lube metal when cutting it because it produces quite a bit of friction resultant heat. I just squirt a few drops of liquid that I hate on my drill bit and at the drill site and then I take it reeeeal slow. And re-lube often.
Not that I am assuming that you didn't lube your KF before drilling, but perhaps not enough so, or else your drill was under-powered or too slow/fast, or perhaps the drill bit simply wasn't quite fit enough for the task.
Not that I am assuming that you didn't lube your KF before drilling, but perhaps not enough so, or else your drill was under-powered or too slow/fast, or perhaps the drill bit simply wasn't quite fit enough for the task.
Hey don't worry about it folkphys. It's not your fault. I am just ...... at myself for being a little too careless with it. You are right, I didn't apply enough coolant on it.
And the new drill bits I purchased don't seem to be up to the task either. I thought the KF base was made of mild steel, seems it's a little harder then that.
I hope the machinist can fix it. If not, I will probably get him to drill out another hole if he is up to it.
And the new drill bits I purchased don't seem to be up to the task either. I thought the KF base was made of mild steel, seems it's a little harder then that.
I hope the machinist can fix it. If not, I will probably get him to drill out another hole if he is up to it.
Ok brought it down to the machinist today. He managed to drill out another hole right next to the original one. Now there is a bur all round the hole on the inside. I have tried filing it down but now the bur has been filed flush to the insulator rim stop inside, which is still quite close to the center pin.
Is there a way to file it down completely?
Is there a way to file it down completely?
Just had an idea to filing the inside burr. Bascially saw off a small round needle file in half and then attach it to my Dremal. I now have a rotating deburring file. Hope it works
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All right. Deburring done. Burr at the back of hole is now completely removed using the above method. With the new enlarged hole, whistling is finally gone too! Can't be happier.
Thanks guys again for everything
Thanks guys again for everything
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