KFL+ Too Harsh, Reduce Nicotine or Go Max VG?

[aznnp77]

as it's been said, drop the nic!

started at 24mg, once i got into rebuildables i steadily went down to where i am now which is 3mg. if they made 1mg i'd buy it.


advantages? less throat hit, vape more before i get the nic spins lol

Sounds like your solution would be to mix a 0mg and 3 mg bottle of the same juice, half and half.

As far as my situation goes, I'm still feeling out different things with the Kayfun. I ordered some 30 gauge today to see what it's like with 11-12 wraps instead of 5-6 of the 32 gauge.

The Kayfun doesn't hold up to chain vaping like my Protanks do. I wonder why. I usually try to keep vape time brief when I'm at work and try to get back inside relatively quickly.

ITC has a 10% off Halloween sale going on for Friday. It's an excuse to grab another 120ml bottle for $17.99, and possibly try out a couple of other flavors, although I just bought 600ml for $100 a couple weeks back .

 

[Monotremata]

About 5 hours in with my new Infinite KFL+ v2, and my Smoktech SID.. So far the 18mg stuff isn't any worse to my throat than on my Protank 2.. Well have to see how it goes, I think its an older batch when Killer Juice was doing 40/60 mixes and my new batch is 50/50.. No problems chain vaping either over here!

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[0S1R1S]

The Kayfun doesn't hold up to chain vaping like my Protanks do. I wonder why. I usually try to keep vape time brief when I'm at work and try to get back inside relatively quickly.

Check your wicking. I can full lung hit mine for 5 seconds back to back and never get dry hits. After you take a drag, see if have an air bubble rising from the juice channel. That's usually a good sign of vacuum/wicking. If not, make sure your juice channels are clear from wick.

 

[aznnp77]

I tried a different juice that I'm just trying to get through this weekend.

I build the coil at a 2.2ohm and trimmed the tails so that they barely met the channels. Surprisingly, I haven't had any wicking issues with it, and it's performing better than any build I've done so far.

My 30 gauge Kanthal should be coming today. I'll probably make another build later this week with it. A little bit annoyed that Lightning vapes raised their price on the ceramic tweezers over the weekend. For now, I don't think I need them.

 

[0S1R1S]

A little bit annoyed that Lightning vapes raised their price on the ceramic tweezers over the weekend. For now, I don't think I need them.

101Vape has them for $11

 

[aznnp77]

101Vape has them for $11

$2 shipping. Most places don't offer free shipping unless you spend like 50 bucks. I'll probably go ahead and get them eventually. Would make things easier, but I get by with what I have.

I rebuilt a protank head with the 30 gauge last night. I did 12 wraps and it came out to 2.5. Next time I'll do 11 and try to get into the 2.2 range I'm used to.

With twice the amount of wraps as I do with the 32 gauge, it was a tighter spot, but manageable. Something about the thickness of the wire just makes it seem so much better, I'm not sure why.

I think I read somewhere that thicker gauge kanthal is better for longevity. Is that true? I'm usually recoiling my primary tank once every 2-3 days. If i could make it last closer to 5 days or a week that would be nice.

Vape wise, it tastes about the same.

 

[tchavei]

I recoil once a month maybe not that it is necessary.. One usually rewickes more often than recoiling. 2 or 3 days sounds a little off... Why do you recoil?

Regards
Tony

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[JStallings]

0S1R1S I completely concur as concerns the nic hit on the KFL. I'm about to reduce my nic content as well, and I'm not going to miss it. Neither will I be missing the frequent juicy clouds I'll be puffing out because I'll still be makin' 'em

Nice build BTW, thats the first twisted build I've seen. I'll be trying that out after a bit of practice with the regular method (I just got the KFL two days ago).

Cheers!

 

[MattyTny]

What are you wrapping your coil on? The internal diameter of the coil will also impact the wicking situation. I usually have an I.D. of ~2mm. Other things to note coil related is the gap you have between the coil and the center pin airflow. You want a small gap ~1mm for a smoother hit.

When you take out your wicks you should wash them and inspect them for any evidence of burning like black scorching. In this case you need to try different amounts of wick. Also there isn't much of a need to twist the wick, cotton or rayon.

I noticed a couple juices gave a stronger throat hit from different vendors with similar VG concentrations. It could be a juice issue, unless you've used it before and it was fine.

Make sure you are drawing on the kayfun in a smooth manner, adjust the airflow if need be.

 

[aznnp77]

I wrap my coil on a mini screwdriver. I forget what size it is, but I think it's the most common size used for protank builds because it fits in between the channels. For the KFL I used the 1/16, which is the biggest one in the set of 5 I have.

I used to rewick once in between protank rebuilds, but I started using a really gunky juice as my primary and after I dry burn now it always just tastes burned. I rebuild because the flavor starts getting a bit off, and it doesn't pull as well as it did when it was fresh. I typically have to turn up the voltage to get any kind of vapor out of it.

I always rebuild the KFL, rather than dryburn, because after you take it apart, juice is dripping everywhere, and I have to wash it out and take it apart or it will start flooding. As a secondary tank, the KFL coil lasts much longer though.

I'm a chain vaper. I usually hit it 3 times consecutively, sometimes up to 5 times, so maybe that has something to do with it?

 

[MattyTny]

I would go one drill bit size bigger and you'll have more wick to work with. If you're using kohgendo cotton pads you should peel the pad apart, cut a length, peel off stray fibers and just twist the tip, not the whole wick. Drape the wick tails over the positive block just touching the deck.

I can chain vape my KFL, I use rayon wick, but cotton should work fine too. I usually give a few seconds pause between each drag though, I take long drags too. If you go draw after draw after draw it could possibly dry hit or burn since the liquid needs to travel up to the coil. Also when you use the kayfun make sure you aren't holding your device parallel to the ground. The liquid needs to be in contact with the channels. Also listen to the heating action. You should hear a crackle/sizzle, if it's more of an aggressive sizzle that continues for a while after you release the fire button then something is wrong.

 

[tchavei]

I don't know... A coil should last you quite some time. I assume you dry burn the coil without a wick in it right? Have you tried washing it under running water between dry burns to remove the burned residues? Dry burning separates the gunk from the coil but doesn't make it evaporate.

I vape 5ml per day and a coil lasts well over two weeks... Heck, I change coils when I feel like experimenting and not because they go bad or something.

Wicking is different. Silica will survive 3 or 4 dry burns before being useless as a wick, cotton usually lasts a day depending on juice or volume, rayon outlives cotton but can't be dry burned just as cotton can't either.

Regards
Tony

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[aznnp77]

I prefer to use screwdrivers since I can compress the coil more easily next to the handle, as opposed to a drill bit. I tried it once, and it just seemed so much harder.

I guess I'm just an exception, because most people I know can make a stock coil last a week or more. I've read about people recoiling their tanks every day, so perhaps I'm just pickier than I think about the freshness of my vape.

 

[Monotremata]

Don't feel bad my first couple days were rad but I've had nothing but dry hit syndrome the last 2 days.. Must've rewicked 5 times yesterday.. I'm starting to think the 32ga 1/16" microcoil heats too fast.. My first one was 6 wraps for around 2 ohms, worked OK. I upped it to 8 or 9 wraps and am at 2.3 now but it didn't help.. Everything is picture perfect, cotton amount, coil height, etc. But i have to do primer puffs every 2-3 vapes to get it to stop dry hitting. Gonna order some 29 or 30ga this weekend and see if that smooths out the heating..

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[Wern314]

From my experience 1/16 (1.58mm) ID is to small, not enough cotton to keep up with wicking. I'd say 2mm ID and larger is needed to wick efficiently. Keep in mind i take 3-4 second lung pulls so I need enough wicking to keep up. My go to ID is actually 3/32 (2.38mm) for both my Kayfun and RDA's. Try some 28 & 30awg both work great in the Kayfun.


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[aznnp77]

From my experience 1/16 (1.58mm) ID is to small, not enough cotton to keep up with wicking. I'd say 2mm ID and larger is needed to wick efficiently. Keep in mind i take 3-4 second lung pulls so I need enough wicking to keep up. My go to ID is actually 3/32 (2.38mm) for both my Kayfun and RDA's. Try some 28 & 30awg both work great in the Kayfun.


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I think I'm confusing a lot of you guys by mentioning my protanks and Kayfuns in the same subject. I use the equivalent of 2mm in my Kayfuns. I use a smaller screwdriver in my Protanks. I'm using 30 gauge in my protanks for this week and seeing how long they last. Hopefully longer.

 

[MattyTny]

The 2mm coil internal diameter is pretty key for horizontal kayfun builds when threading wick through the coil. I'd definitely use 28 gauge kanthal in the kayfun. When I first started rebuilding I only used 30&32 gauge kanthal, this was in my igo-s on my ego battery. I found that the wire is too thin and doesn't have that same durability as the 28 gauge. The 28 gauge coil will gave me more durability and the heat time that I wanted, also easier to work with. My current kayfun build is a 28 gauge wrapped around a 14 gauge syringe needle reading at 1.6 ohms. I only have an MVP2 and it vapes great. The initial heat time is very long if I haven't vaped on it for a while, but after the first two drags it's heating up quick.

Off tangent,
I remember when I only had the ego battery and the igo-s and I went to pick up 28 gauge at a vape shop I asked the store worker if this would work well on my ego battery, he said it's too dangerous and it could blow up. That statement was false because it all depends on how you use the kanthal. I vaped on the ego with the igo-s with 28 gauge reading around 1.6. It worked great and my face was still intact because I worked with my battery to create a coil within the amp limit.

What kind of wick are you using btw?

 

[aznnp77]

The 2mm coil internal diameter is pretty key for horizontal kayfun builds when threading wick through the coil. I'd definitely use 28 gauge kanthal in the kayfun. When I first started rebuilding I only used 30&32 gauge kanthal, this was in my igo-s on my ego battery. I found that the wire is too thin and doesn't have that same durability as the 28 gauge. The 28 gauge coil will gave me more durability and the heat time that I wanted, also easier to work with. My current kayfun build is a 28 gauge wrapped around a 14 gauge syringe needle reading at 1.6 ohms. I only have an MVP2 and it vapes great. The initial heat time is very long if I haven't vaped on it for a while, but after the first two drags it's heating up quick.

Off tangent,
I remember when I only had the ego battery and the igo-s and I went to pick up 28 gauge at a vape shop I asked the store worker if this would work well on my ego battery, he said it's too dangerous and it could blow up. That statement was false because it all depends on how you use the kanthal. I vaped on the ego with the igo-s with 28 gauge reading around 1.6. It worked great and my face was still intact because I worked with my battery to create a coil within the amp limit.

What kind of wick are you using btw?

I picked up the 30 gauge so I could use it on the Kayfun and the Protank coils. So far so good with the protank coils, so I'll probably continue to use them there. I used to have an MVP2 too, but I ditched it for an iStick about a month ago.

I used organic cotton for a week, but switched to rayon afterwards following the big craze from pbusardo's wick testing video. Koh Gen Do bloated in price and hard to find after everyone saw that. I also liked the pbusardo said the rayon was lasting longer than the Koh Gen Do.

Not sure about the working space in an igo-s, but 28 gauge would make a protank coil blow up unless you were sub-ohming. I'm doing 12 wraps of 30 gauge right now, and it barely has enough room to not touch the edges of the coil.