Killer 705 Clone from madvapes (Terminator RDA) for $11.99

[Kemosabe]

That is helpful info, Nelson. I was gonna get the agr for one of my terms but now I think I want the x8. I really like the possibility of getting a glass tank for the x8 too. I vape a lot of citrus. It's too bad the term is fiddly for you, I'm having a great experience with mine.

 

[foggdawg]

Is it true or is it just me , but using the terminator with a bigger tank works better? I was about to scrap this project then I remembered I had an old carto tank sitting around. I broke the term down queued up Todds video on the killer and started from scratch. But instead of screwing the bottom connector onto the tank, I screwed it into my mod. Then attached the unit with the tank onto the mod. Now I can see the juice control clearly. It vapes incredibly well. This works outstanding for $12 imo.

 

[nelsonm64]

only real issue i have with it is, it is HARD to keep from flooding on my AGR tank when filling. even with the juice control closed and filler screw removed, more times than not it floods bigtime when screwing the top cap on! juice coming out the bottom too... tried filling using just the filler hole but thats not working for me either. i'm hoping when i get to try it in a X8 it wont be an issue.

 

[michliu]

only real issue i have with it is, it is HARD to keep from flooding on my AGR tank when filling. even with the juice control closed and filler screw removed, more times than not it floods bigtime when screwing the top cap on! juice coming out the bottom too... tried filling using just the filler hole but thats not working for me either. i'm hoping when i get to try it in a X8 it wont be an issue.

This may just be crazy talk, but I was having the same problem on my AGR tank, intermittent for me though, sometimes it would flood, sometimes it wouldn't. Last couple of times I've filled, I didn't let the juice level go above the seam between the bulb and the top tube. I've tried it via the screw and taking off the top cap. No leaking the last 2 refills. I also screw the top section onto the bulb base really tight.

 

[GraceH]

Built my first coil ever on my Term. 32/32 Nr-r-nr with cotton ball wick. After the forth try I had something the looks like a coil. Poped in on the provari and checked the ohms: 1.2 wth? I was shooting for 2.4. I was using a multimeter to determine the length of Res wire needed (as in Todd.s killer vid). IDK. Its a new meter. The readings were all over the place and seemed to take a long time to make up its mind, and seem inconstant when I moved the probs. So I guess I'm gonna need a better meter before my next build.

In the mean time I'm vaping it at 3.5 volts and quiet pleased with myself that I built a working wick and coil. And I'm loving the flavor from the cotton balls.

 

[nelsonm64]

This may just be crazy talk, but I was having the same problem on my AGR tank, intermittent for me though, sometimes it would flood, sometimes it wouldn't. Last couple of times I've filled, I didn't let the juice level go above the seam between the bulb and the top tube. I've tried it via the screw and taking off the top cap. No leaking the last 2 refills. I also screw the top section onto the bulb base really tight.

i think the juice is going in between the 2 bulb halves and causing the flooding. with that little piece of ground wire sticking through i don't think it seals tight enough and the AGR being so freaking air tight the juice is being forced through there, could be completely wrong though...

 

[nelsonm64]

Built my first coil ever on my Term. 32/32 Nr-r-nr with cotton ball wick. After the forth try I had something the looks like a coil. Poped in on the provari and checked the ohms: 1.2 wth? I was shooting for 2.4. I was using a multimeter to determine the length of Res wire needed (as in Todd.s killer vid). IDK. Its a new meter. The readings were all over the place and seemed to take a long time to make up its mind, and seem inconstant when I moved the probs. So I guess I'm gonna need a better meter before my next build.

In the mean time I'm vaping it at 3.5 volts and quiet pleased with myself that I built a working wick and coil. And I'm loving the flavor from the cotton balls.

congrates! atleast it's working, these things aint easy to rebuild! how many wraps did you use? one less next time perhaps?

 

[GraceH]

2/3 wraps. 1 less wrap?? lol. if I wanna do sub ohms plus I'd have to get a mech to fire it with. Idk about all that. I was wanting a 2.4ohm coil. But if wasn't a complete fail. I'm happy with the vape from it. I just have to be sure to remember to lower the volts when I want to vape from this term tank. I have one more term (2.4 ohm "stock" coil).

 

[michliu]

i think the juice is going in between the 2 bulb halves and causing the flooding. with that little piece of ground wire sticking through i don't think it seals tight enough and the AGR being so freaking air tight the juice is being forced through there, could be completely wrong though...

Trapping the wire will definitely lead to flooding. I learned with my other Terminator, the Oddy clone, not to leave the gap. I use a pin to push the end of the wire inside as I'm tightening down so it doesn't get trapped.

 

[nelsonm64]

2/3 wraps. 1 less wrap?? lol. if I wanna do sub ohms plus I'd have to get a mech to fire it with. Idk about all that. I was wanting a 2.4ohm coil. But if wasn't a complete fail. I'm happy with the vape from it. I just have to be sure to remember to lower the volts when I want to vape from this term tank. I have one more term (2.4 ohm "stock" coil).

lol, sorry i meant i more wrap, long day. i should read what i write before i post...

 

[StereoDreamer]

I just successfully vaped an AMP tank completely empty, running a Terminator in it.

25/75 juice, NO "manual juice feeds", and no dry hits.

Vaping technology For The Win

 

[Firestorm]

I was shooting for 2.4. I was using a multimeter to determine the length of Res wire needed (as in Todd.s killer vid). IDK. Its a new meter. The readings were all over the place and seemed to take a long time to make up its mind, and seem inconstant when I moved the probs. So I guess I'm gonna need a better meter before my next build.

I’ve had some problems and have cursed my multimeter when trying to make a nr-r-nr wire of a certain resistance. When I have these problems, the resistance reading will bounce around or be wrong (read higher that it should be). I believe that this problem can be attributed to a poor connection of the multimeter leads to the ends of the wire. You would see the same thing if you were measuring the resistance of an atomizer where the coil isn’t tightened enough to the posts (or whatever).

I’ve been able to improve the accuracy of my multimeter readings by making sure that there is a tight connection. In order to make this easier, I attach flat alligator clips like these to each end of the nr-r-nr wire: RadioShack Micro 1-1/8 Smooth Clips : Clips | RadioShack.com

I make sure that each alligator clip holds the wire tightly and I press my multimeter leads firmly to the alligator clips when I take a reading. If the reading bounces around a lot, I’ll readjust and make sure that the clips are securely holding the wire. The multimeter reading should be pretty stable if there is a good connection.

After successfully hitting a given resistance, I’ll measure the length of the resistance wire so I have a good idea going forward (when I use the same gauge wire) of how long it should be (I need 32mm of 32awg A1-Kanthal to hit 1.5ohms for example).

HTH

 

[DuffTime]

So what's everyone using to rebuild these? Should I go Silica or Cotton? Any specific "WOW" setups anyone has managed? I need to order wick and NR wire and maybe some ceramic cups, because I've only ever worked on genesis styles before, nothing Diver/Killer/Terminator like before.

 

[Firestorm]

I use 32awg Kanthal and nickel. 2mm silica works well. I've been using 2mm ekowool, but I think it's too thick. I hear that people prefer the 1.5mm ekowool, which I'm waiting for in the mail.

 

[DuffTime]

Same gauge for the Nickel then, 32?

 

[Innocuous]

I've seen people specify equal AWG for both wires, NR & R - but except when trying to ....-weld them, I dunno why it would matter within 2awg of each other. All you care about is a decent weld or knot or "splice"

 

[Kemosabe]

Is it true or is it just me , but using the terminator with a bigger tank works better? I was about to scrap this project then I remembered I had an old carto tank sitting around. I broke the term down queued up Todds video on the killer and started from scratch. But instead of screwing the bottom connector onto the tank, I screwed it into my mod. Then attached the unit with the tank onto the mod. Now I can see the juice control clearly. It vapes incredibly well. This works outstanding for $12 imo.

I think this is because the weight of the juice creates more gravity, feeding better. I've not used the small tank term but I do notice that a full tank feeds better than a emptier tank.

only real issue i have with it is, it is HARD to keep from flooding on my AGR tank when filling. even with the juice control closed and filler screw removed, more times than not it floods bigtime when screwing the top cap on! juice coming out the bottom too... tried filling using just the filler hole but thats not working for me either. i'm hoping when i get to try it in a X8 it wont be an issue.

Try filling upside down, pressing the bottom cap in just enough to make a seal, then flip the tank and complete seating the bottom cap. You'll get maybe 1 drop if any leak. That's what I've been getting anyway.

I’ve had some problems and have cursed my multimeter when trying to make a nr-r-nr wire of a certain resistance. When I have these problems, the resistance reading will bounce around or be wrong (read higher that it should be). I believe that this problem can be attributed to a poor connection of the multimeter leads to the ends of the wire. You would see the same thing if you were measuring the resistance of an atomizer where the coil isn’t tightened enough to the posts (or whatever).

I’ve been able to improve the accuracy of my multimeter readings by making sure that there is a tight connection. In order to make this easier, I attach flat alligator clips like these to each end of the nr-r-nr wire: RadioShack Micro 1-1/8 Smooth Clips : Clips | RadioShack.com

I make sure that each alligator clip holds the wire tightly and I press my multimeter leads firmly to the alligator clips when I take a reading. If the reading bounces around a lot, I’ll readjust and make sure that the clips are securely holding the wire. The multimeter reading should be pretty stable if there is a good connection.

After successfully hitting a given resistance, I’ll measure the length of the resistance wire so I have a good idea going forward (when I use the same gauge wire) of how long it should be (I need 32mm of 32awg A1-Kanthal to hit 1.5ohms for example).

HTH

thanks for this. That measurement is very helpful

I've seen people specify equal AWG for both wires, NR & R - but except when trying to ....-weld them, I dunno why it would matter within 2awg of each other. All you care about is a decent weld or knot or "splice"

What is a .... weld?

 

[Innocuous]

the '....' of the wires; placed end to end; and welded, (rather than overlapping or folding)

 

[DuffTime]

So, as I read earlier, it's possible to scavenge ceramic cups from old ce2 clearos. Who has had good luck with that?

 

[nelsonm64]

if anyone is in need of the ce2 cups i ran into a good deal the other day. theres other venders also.

10pcs CE2 Alumina Ceramic Replacement Rebuildable Atomizer Dripper Iatty Steam | eBay