thx for that, now to find some here in canada! sofar no luck....
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i have decided that i do indeed want to use nr in my builds. its my first foray into NR, so i dont know if the gauge matters much. im pretty sure that i'll want no larger than 32, just to be sure that the wire fits properly in the bulb threads. the thing im wondering is if 32 vs 34 would make much of a difference. those experienced in nr, please reply.
this is what ive got in my cart right now. anyone have an opinion of how this will work in my killer clones?
Pure Nickel Wire 32 Gauge RW0219 - 100 FT 0.008 in. dia non resistance AWG Ni200 Nickel 200
this is what ive got in my cart right now. anyone have an opinion of how this will work in my killer clones?
Pure Nickel Wire 32 Gauge RW0219 - 100 FT 0.008 in. dia non resistance AWG Ni200 Nickel 200
Ah ... I see what you're talking about now. I totally missed the 5 pack for $16.95. I may order them and get the adapters, too.
Thanks for pointing that out.
A little OT here, but would you also recommend 32 gauge for rebuilding stuff like VapeOnly Megas and ProTanks? I bought some 28 gauge kanthal for my genesis builds and am having a devil of a time making tiny wicks.
First impressions: too wobbly!
I don't think that it will fall apart in my pocket, but as you open the juice flow, it gets more wobbly. I have it in a 22mm XL IBTanked tube. I also accidentally took a chip out of the stock CE2 a bit (with a 2.5Ω coil) trying to get it off the pin. I tried to be careful, but they really wedge it in. I sanded the pin a bit before putting in my own CE2 with a 1.5Ω coil and it's much better now. I think that the nest is much bigger than the Killer's and it can hold more silica and juice. Otherwise, it seems to vape just fine. I would definitely get more and recommend it to others if the thing was more stable, but at this point I'll stick with one (unless they come out with a less wobbly version). I'll probably vape it empty and then pack it away and stick with my Killer and Divers. I will try to write a review of all three and perhaps include the AMP Tank.
I don't think that it will fall apart in my pocket, but as you open the juice flow, it gets more wobbly. I have it in a 22mm XL IBTanked tube. I also accidentally took a chip out of the stock CE2 a bit (with a 2.5Ω coil) trying to get it off the pin. I tried to be careful, but they really wedge it in. I sanded the pin a bit before putting in my own CE2 with a 1.5Ω coil and it's much better now. I think that the nest is much bigger than the Killer's and it can hold more silica and juice. Otherwise, it seems to vape just fine. I would definitely get more and recommend it to others if the thing was more stable, but at this point I'll stick with one (unless they come out with a less wobbly version). I'll probably vape it empty and then pack it away and stick with my Killer and Divers. I will try to write a review of all three and perhaps include the AMP Tank.
thanks but im talking about the non resistance wire, not the resistance wire.
P.S. dont forget to use the discount code on their homepage to shave a couple of bucks off your order
yep, 32g is nice for rebuilding tiny heads like the nova, so im sure the same will hold true for the bcc, t3 and protank.
i too was put off by the wobble... after my new favorite homemade juice is cracking my nautilus tank today i think i'll give these another chance. My idea to reduce the wobble: teflon plumbers tape to tighten up the threads on the adapter... i'll let y'all know how that works out
on second thought im not sure if that will work, it would keep the ground from touching... i'll see what i can figure out
on second thought im not sure if that will work, it would keep the ground from touching... i'll see what i can figure out
I had an idea to fix the wobble, but never got around to actually doing it. I had planned to cut some slots in the top of the 510-510 adapter. Basically cut in a similar fashion to how the top of most 510 connections on PVs are cut. This would allow the main part to screw down tightly onto the 510 adapter, getting rid of the wobble, but juice could still flow into the holes in the bulb's base via the slots cut into the 510 adapter.
If the cuts are too deep down, there might be issues with leaking juice through the connector, as well as failing to seal against your tank's o-rings, if you cut down into the area where the o-rings seal against the adapter. You would also loose the ability to control juice flow, however well the cuts feed juice is what you are stuck with. Maybe having a few different adapters with a few different sized or number of cuts would allow you to customize the flow to the juice being used.
It might be best to line up the holes in the terminator's bulb with the slots being cut, simple scoring the bulb part where the holes line up, and then marking that spot on the adapter once the bulb is screwed down would be the easiest way I'd imagine.
If the cuts are too deep down, there might be issues with leaking juice through the connector, as well as failing to seal against your tank's o-rings, if you cut down into the area where the o-rings seal against the adapter. You would also loose the ability to control juice flow, however well the cuts feed juice is what you are stuck with. Maybe having a few different adapters with a few different sized or number of cuts would allow you to customize the flow to the juice being used.
It might be best to line up the holes in the terminator's bulb with the slots being cut, simple scoring the bulb part where the holes line up, and then marking that spot on the adapter once the bulb is screwed down would be the easiest way I'd imagine.
thats a great idea. and thats kinda what a normal 510-510 unsealed adapter looks like- its got the cutouts, looks like the top of a castle/rook. if only the pos pin on the adapter wasnt recessed, id have that accomplished without even making any cuts. maybe i can poke this pos pin in the right direction...
im bumping my post in hopes of someone knowing the answer to that^^^
i noticed that in the adapter for the KC the positive pin is spring mounted... this allows the +pos connection to stay constant through the travel of the bulb in screwing for juice flow...
maybe if this spring was stronger it would resolved the wobble?
should make no difference as it is NR wire. however if you are trying to twist a thinner NR wire with a thicker R wire (or the other way around) it can be difficult to do
OK folks--here is some "good news/bad news" info about the Terminator RBA with regards to some of the tanks we've been talking about.
First the bad news.
The Terminator bulb is too high for it to fit into an X8 tank or an AMP tank with the standard-length tubes. You CAN fiddle with the tanks and get them to seal on both the upper and lower o-rings, but it's pretty dicey fit, and the caps and tank tube won't seat completely together.
Now the good news.
The AMP tank I got in the mail today came with 2 short tanks, but it ALSO came with 6 Cisco-Spec LR attys,so it's not a total loss for tonight. It IS, in fact, all it's cracked up to be, and is a pretty amzing bit of kit. The Second piece of good news is that the longer tank tubes that Avid makes for the AMP have plenty of room in them for the Terminator, and I had presence of mind enough to order one the same day I bought the AMP Tank on the Classies here. It should arrive tomorrow, so I'll try it as soon as it comes in, and give a full report, with photos...
And another bit of good news--it looks like the plastic tank on the X8 has an external diameter of 24 or 25mm, so I should be able to get a Pyrex XL-length tank made special for it from IBTanked. I just need to find my micrometer and take some accurate measurements...
Again, photos will come soon, so stay tuned!
First the bad news.
The Terminator bulb is too high for it to fit into an X8 tank or an AMP tank with the standard-length tubes. You CAN fiddle with the tanks and get them to seal on both the upper and lower o-rings, but it's pretty dicey fit, and the caps and tank tube won't seat completely together.
Now the good news.
The AMP tank I got in the mail today came with 2 short tanks, but it ALSO came with 6 Cisco-Spec LR attys,so it's not a total loss for tonight. It IS, in fact, all it's cracked up to be, and is a pretty amzing bit of kit. The Second piece of good news is that the longer tank tubes that Avid makes for the AMP have plenty of room in them for the Terminator, and I had presence of mind enough to order one the same day I bought the AMP Tank on the Classies here. It should arrive tomorrow, so I'll try it as soon as it comes in, and give a full report, with photos...
And another bit of good news--it looks like the plastic tank on the X8 has an external diameter of 24 or 25mm, so I should be able to get a Pyrex XL-length tank made special for it from IBTanked. I just need to find my micrometer and take some accurate measurements...
Again, photos will come soon, so stay tuned!
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Looking forward to it! The AMP tank is entirely outta my budget range but I always enjoy other peoples' experiments. I hope it works out as well as it should!
I myself have been fighting some kinda bug for the past few days so I STILL have not successfully used the Killer Clone. I might have the energy to try again tonight, and this time (thanks to some "for dummies" directions from a board member) I will try to use my AGR tank.
I myself have been fighting some kinda bug for the past few days so I STILL have not successfully used the Killer Clone. I might have the energy to try again tonight, and this time (thanks to some "for dummies" directions from a board member) I will try to use my AGR tank.
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