Larger Volume Replaceable Coil Cartomizer

[Vaporer]

[FONT="][SIZE=3]For those that want more cartomizer capacity, a replaceable coil and no burning[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3]
[/SIZE] [FONT="]this is for you. Simple to make from a couple old cartomizers and maybe and[/FONT]
[FONT="][SIZE=3]old atomizer if you want the mesh additional feed.[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3]
[/SIZE] [FONT="]In this picture you can see what's been done.[/FONT]

[FONT="][IMG]http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac46/Vaporer/carto1.jpg[/IMG][/FONT]

[FONT="]After stripping a few standard cartomizers I cut the tube off 2 of them.[/FONT]
[FONT="][SIZE=3]The tube edges were beveled and slid on a metal rod to keep them aligned while [/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3]
[/SIZE] [FONT="]soldering them together. You can smooth the joints then so it looks like one tube.[/FONT]
[FONT="][SIZE=3]I chose to use 3 tubes total as that gave me the final height I wanted if I used a [/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3]
[/SIZE] [FONT="]standard cartomizer tube on the bottom with the fitting.[/FONT]
[FONT="][SIZE=3]Mesh was removed from an atomizer for additional feed. It was wrapped around[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3]
[/SIZE] [FONT="]a large jewelers screwdriver flat tip to get the shape. I wanted it to spray directly[/FONT]
[FONT="][SIZE=3]on the coil. It was soldered on one side to the top of the tube, the last wrap has wick [/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3]
[/SIZE] [FONT="]under it.[/FONT]
[FONT="][SIZE=3]Next the coil sockets were soldered to stiff enameled wire (from the Rat Shack 3 pack) [/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3]
[/SIZE] [FONT="]and heat shrink applied. This prevents shorting the coil to the inner tube..[/FONT]
[FONT="][SIZE=3]A coil was made using the same IC sockets and inserted into them so the correct final height[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3]
[/SIZE] [FONT="]is known so the enameled wire can be cut to the right length. When the top section is removed you want the base sockets exposed enough to be able to easily plug and unplug a new coil if/when needed.[/FONT]
[FONT="][SIZE=3]the coil has long wick tails that go to the bottom of the cart.[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3]
[/SIZE] [FONT="]when this is all done it will look like this.[/FONT]
[FONT="][IMG]http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac46/Vaporer/carto2.jpg[/IMG][/FONT]
[SIZE=3]
[/SIZE] [FONT="]Wrap the filler of your choice around it all, slide it in the tube and press it on the connector. Be careful as there will be things sticking out the top when done. Still it's easy to squeeze it all together.[/FONT]
[FONT="][SIZE=3]No glue was used for when it needs to have the filler changed later.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT="]

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[FONT="][SIZE=3]Now you have a the bottom completed! The top is held on by the short split tube. It was made from another cartomizer tube. I cut the split with a dremel tool cutoff wheel. Then just squeeze it till it fits 1/2 way into the top section. The top can be full length or trimmed to the length you like. If trimmed, leave the factory uncut edge towards the bottom tube for a good fit.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT="]

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[FONT="][SIZE=3]Last, wrap it with wide vinyl tape of the color of your choice. Trim the ends and you're done. You can also cut a thin strip of tape to cover the joint of the top and bottom sections. you can have green for menthol etc...[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT="]

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[FONT="]Enjoy![/FONT]

 

[Pharaoh]

Very COOL!

 

[Scubabatdan]

Now the question everyone has... How does it perform? Does the mesh work how you envisioned it? And is the top open and the bottom crimped close so air is forced through the mesh?

I know this method allows for an enhance resevoir quantity since the tube is much higher than the original height. That is why I used the silicon tubing on mine to do the same thing. I will have to try the IC connectors, would make changing the coil out alot faster. I did get my shipment in yesterday BTW, I will be shooting out some of the thermeez to you shortly.
Good Job!
Dan

 

[Vaporer]

Thanks guys.

It works quite well. I prefer to post things that work. I already have the tools and materials to correct deficiencies if possible as I test them. So if someone decides to make it, it will work. My main concern is making it simple & serviceable with no special tools.

On this one I don't think I'd make it any taller. If you do, the wick will struggle to "feed up" as its depleted from use. It does vape a long time as is with good full vapes. I think you found in your Pill Fob mod that "wicking up" is different. If the wick dia is to small, you can run it dry or weak vapes and a "recovery time" needed. Not the best scenario.
I'd like to do another with the GreenCig type wick. It seems to wick better than the silica.

The mesh is crimped closed(bottom) and both lower corners folded in toward the post then it was tacked to the tube top. This way the air has to pass through it inside when drawing and the flow is shaped. The main concern was to spray the whole coil so it assisted wick refeed.

kcofohio has the horizontal coil posted http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/105366-rebuilding-cartos.html . In post#9 I mentioned I was planing to do this when I came back from vacation. Mainly to see if it would all work/fit in a standard dia carto tube. More of a "proof of concept". If the coil is wicked well enough honestly I'm not convinced yet the mesh is really needed. This was a 1 attempt at the design so all bases were covered, maybe a little over kill. You can squeeze the tube a little and the work the jewelers screwdriver in and form the top of the tube itself using small needle nose pliers. The coil height is all that's a concern so it gets the air stream. The next design won't have it to find out for sure. Less steps/work/materials is better!

The way it's designed now, when the top is pulled off, the IC sockets are 1/2 exposed. This makes the coil swap and alignment easy. It could be done in a single tube, but the tube would need removed from the connector each time to change it easily IMO. You'll lose volume since the filler and short stock tube are kept low for the sockets and coil. The long wick "tails" can be reinserted to the bottom with a paperclip looped on the end when changing the coil. The pin through the coil is removed last so the coil retains its shape. Removing it opens the wicking material for the capillary action to work.
There is also something to be said for the "volume chamber" above the coil. Not enough and it doesn't taste the same or is hot. If the coil is closer than 1/4" to the plastic cap, it can start melting it too.

This was basically for people that didn't want burning cartos, a replaceable coil and greater cart volume while keeping the original diameter and look.

I've thought of a couple simpler things that could be done and I'll post the pics as I do them with the outcome or include the changes to make it work in that style. There is a link in this area that someone posted for SS tubing source. That could open a lot of doors not trashing 3 cartos to make one. Still, the advantage of having one that is easily serviceable in all aspects wins IMO just like your Pill Fob.

Glad the IC sockets made it. Took 2x as long to get them. They didn't say they were coming from China and posted a 5-6 day delivery time. Right... lol
I use them on all my replaceable coils. Setting the height is the only issue and not really difficult. Since the middle section is hollow, they can literally be cut in 1/2 and still have usaeble holes for the coil wire and as the lower socket. Just trim the pin portion length to fit. A Dremel tool isn't needed as a triangle jewelers file will cut them easily.

I'm really enjoying all the people getting involved with the new ideas, design configurations and materials used. Personally, I think we have the burning issue resolved so its now "here is an easy decent carto to make" from what people find.

If anyone mods this design and has it working well, post pics here. Not a problem at all!

 

[hova]

i like it. i still think if you can seal the bottom well enough , you could run a wider wick and not need the filler. then i would suggest running like the e2 cartos with the nodrip washer.

i wish my soldering skills were better , id try this. i might give it a go since im layed up anyways.


i think youll find that this sort of thing would benefit a wetbox style really well. this is was i had envisioned with the carto centerpost , and a horizontal coil.

can you whip up a coil with really long wick leads , that you could use in place of filler...


im still working with fiberglass , but im motivated to give it a go. wish i had some liquid that was worth a damn...


-hov

 

[Vaporer]

hov,
You can make the wick tails as long or thick as you like. It still will only wick up so far as the fluid level falls. The ones in the pic go to the carto bottom +1/4". The filler is keeping the liquid from running back out the top if inverted.
It would be easy enough to thicken the wick tails right up to the coil so the silicone ring would slide in and over everything. The thicker tails would then keep the free liquid in the bottom and the tails go all the way down in the reservoir.
If you had a syringe, it could be refilled right down through the wick over an empty bottle till it dripped out the bottom down through the tube. If the mesh isn't used, you should be able to see tubes top to not over fill as it would be above the silicone ring.
As long as the solder job is good the tubing, it shouldn't leak. The center bottom can be siliconed to insure no leakage around the center connector. Some are tighter than others, by brand, so some may be a good seal without it, some may need it.

Might toss one together next time I'm working on them just to see. There are a few variations that can be tried depending on what you have on hand. It holds 2x as much now as a normal carto. I may even do it with the glass mat I have just to compare the wicking properties. I'd like to find some of the volcano type SS pads so I can try a wick of it as Kelemvor described Raidy used. Hate to buy a whole pad set for a test. It appears to be a proven method on the German forum. What situations it can be used in a person would just need some to try.

 

[Scubabatdan]

hov,
You can make the wick tails as long or thick as you like. It still will only wick up so far as the fluid level falls. The ones in the pic go to the carto bottom +1/4". The filler is keeping the liquid from running back out the top if inverted.
It would be easy enough to thicken the wick tails right up to the coil so the silicone ring would slide in and over everything. The thicker tails would then keep the free liquid in the bottom and the tails go all the way down in the reservoir.
If you had a syringe, it could be refilled right down through the wick over an empty bottle till it dripped out the bottom down through the tube. If the mesh isn't used, you should be able to see tubes top to not over fill as it would be above the silicone ring.
As long as the solder job is good the tubing, it shouldn't leak. The center bottom can be siliconed to insure no leakage around the center connector. Some are tighter than others, by brand, so some may be a good seal without it, some may need it.

Might toss one together next time I'm working on them just to see. There are a few variations that can be tried depending on what you have on hand. It holds 2x as much now as a normal carto. I may even do it with the glass mat I have just to compare the wicking properties. I'd like to find some of the volcano type SS pads so I can try a wick of it as Kelemvor described Raidy used. Hate to buy a whole pad set for a test. It appears to be a proven method on the German forum. What situations it can be used in a person would just need some to try.

Just a suggestion, you could buy a 2" 16ga needle and cut it to length and solder it to the atties center connection tube so it is one piece rather than multiples.
Dan

 

[hova]

Just a suggestion, you could buy a 2" 16ga needle and cut it to length and solder it to the atties center connection tube so it is one piece rather than multiples.
Dan

im pretty sure youre talking about a piercing needle , not a sewing type needle... dont know how easy you can find a 16g syringe , but i know you can order peircing needles online for about a dollar a pop.

 

[Vaporer]

K&S makes 1/8"dia 12" long SS tubing available for abt $3 from most hobby shops. They may make it in 1/16" also.

 

[Scubabatdan]

im pretty sure youre talking about a piercing needle , not a sewing type needle... dont know how easy you can find a 16g syringe , but i know you can order peircing needles online for about a dollar a pop.

Naw I ment the syringe type, you can get em at TS company. Just use a dremel to cut and blunt.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

K&S makes 1/8"dia 12" long SS tubing available for abt $3 from most hobby shops. They may make it in 1/16" also.

That would work, be nice to fit it over the existing carto center tube, cut to height and solder. Would look cleaner. Will have to mic the dia of the center tube to find one to fit over.
Dan

 

[Sci]

.5", 1", 1.5" blunt tip 16 ga. 50 for $8.49. Amazon.com: 16 ga blunt tip. They've got other sizes also. I've bought from(CML Supply) them & was satisfied.

 

[hova]

not sure what a blunt tip needle in that size is used for , but i was thinking that would be a pretty painful syringe...

then again i hate needles...


suprised no one has tossed some aluminum or ss on a lathe and made their own tube... specially you guys with garages , and taps and dies and fun stuff...


-hov

 

[Vaporer]

I think you can buy it cheaper than make it. I'd still prefer to stay away from aluminum due to possible leaching and the fact it doesn't solder worth a crap.
You could silicone it on , sealing it from leaking, but may isolate it from being used as a top point for a coil connection forcing a second wire from the bottom.

The 3 carto tubes I had open measured 0.082 OD (2.09mm).
The 1/8"(0.125) OD K&S SS tubes have a wall thickness of .028. Times that by 2 = 0.056. This leaves an ID of 0.069.
It's made to neatly sleeve the 1/16" tubing which has a 0.0625 OD.
The 3/16" K&S SS tubing OD is 0.1875. The wall thickness is still 0.028 leaving an ID of 0.1315. Well..a bit sloppy on fit with a diff of 0.0495. Still usable though. Keeping it centered for soldering is the issue.

It would easy to just get a 2.05mm drill bit Amazon.com: TITEX HSD-M205 2.05mm DIN 338 High Speed Steel Jobber Drill Bit, Bright Finish:… for $2 from here or other sources and just hold it with pliers if you don't own a pin vice and spin the tubing on it. It will chase the existing hole easily for the length needed.
You could trim the original carto tube to 1/8" tall so minimal drilling is necessary.
Make a virtual perfect fit to stay on center and solder. The diff of the 2.09mm carto tube and the drilled 2.05mm is only 0.04mm. Normally the drill will have that much slop if not carefully held in a drill press. Or you can use a fingernail file to the carto tube and in a few seconds have a perfect fit.

There are other sources of SS tubing with thinner wall thickness, but you pay a higher price. Personally, I'd prefer to gain a tool in the process I may use for something else.

 

[Quick1]

not sure what a blunt tip needle in that size is used for , but i was thinking that would be a pretty painful syringe...

When I was giving/selling plasma in college I think they were larger than that... drain a quart, spin it, put your red blood cells back in. Huge needle so they can drain it back into you in a reasonable amount of time. Lol, my veins are still all scarred up from when they missed.
[back to the regularly scheduled program]

 

[hova]

piss on that , i went with a kid when we were younger , and it looked like a bic pen that they were shoving in his arm. he ended up passing out walking out of the place. scrawny little ....... 'eh was...

-hov

 

[sweetniko]

I tried to donate...well sell..my plasma one time. They told me my veins were smaller than the needle and they rejected me.
They showed me the needle and I almost passed out when I saw it.
I did notice that the waiting room was full of men...I was the only woman.