Leaford:

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leaford

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Leaford,

How are the new filler cartos holding up cleaning-wise? One of the strong points of the filler-less E2's is the ability to rinse and dryburn them repeatedly. Some members have reported using the same E2 for a month or more.

Some people get that with Kr8s, too. Regular cleaning helps. Personally my record is 17 days, but I've never ben in the habit of cleaning them.

And I honestly havent tried cleaning these yet, I guess I should do that next. I haven't even done a lot of refilling yet, just once each for a handful of them. I've mostly been concentrating on testing them to destruction, to make sure they are as consistantly burn-resistant as they appeared. So, thanks for the reminder, my next phase of testing will be to keep one carto going as long as possible, and then clean it and see if it keeps going. :thumb:
 

leaford

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OK Leaford, I guess after digesting that I will have to think about possibly getting some of these KR8 4.2V Batts. when you say 4.2v is this a true 4.2v Batt or a 3.7 with a max output of 4.2 on a full charge, and what Batt are you particularly speaking about if I may ask if it's a particular one, I'm just so stuck on my Ego/Riva 510 Batts & all my different mods that I haven't been using the KR8's since my early days with V4L, fill me in please ? Also is the carto your making have a slotted bottom on it, I think I have some of these and liked them and have been using them with an adapter on my Ego/Riva, I thought they where from Bloog but I'm not sure as I have so much different stuff right now I could open a store with it all, hahah,, if there is a way you could post a picture of this fusion I would like to see it or give me a link to look at it that would be great just so I know for sure what your speaking about. Thank You Leaford

All KR8 compatibles should be at 4.2v, and yes, it stays at 4.2v until near the end of the battery charge, when it drops, and you can easily notice the resulting drop in vapor.

And yes, the new model still has the slotted bottom.

Here's a link to the current Fusion: Electronic Cigarette Starter Kits

I have to say I have used just about everything in the industry Atty,Carto, Batt and mod wise but I'm new to these CE2 carto's and would really love to see them become perfected as no filler sounds awesome to me. Every carto I have tried and that's quite a few of them, all have some kind of taste that doesn't agree with me, I use to like the idea because I thought it was almost like a filter and grabbing any impurities in the liquids before turning them to vapor but I think that idea is now out the window and just vaping vaporized liquid straight out of a carto with no fabric in them seems like the cleanest way to me, however even the rope in the latest CE2 R3's I have has a taste to it unless it's something else but I don't know what else there could be, there is no glue in them, I dissected them. I have a pack of the CE2 R4's that should be in the mail box tomorrow and I'm hoping they are much better then the R3 version I have now, and a large order coming straight from CN Liquid shop that I'm preying are really good ones,,, fingers crossed on that one too

Well, I will see whether the R4 CE2s have any bad taste. I haven't noticed any bad taste from the new Fusion replacement I am looking at. But I do know the taste you mean. Kind of perfumy, kind of flowery, kind of chemically? Usualy subtle, but with some liquids it comes through stronger than others?

That drove me crazy when I was working at V4L. I was trying everything to solve it, and every time I thought I had it, it cropped up again and proved me wrong. First I thought it was the liquids, then I thought it might be from handling errors, my last theory was that it was the filler material Kanger uses. Either the filler itself, or something that got on the filler either in processing or from the environment.

V4L stopped having those problems when we switched to different carto manufacturers. And like I said, I haven't detected it on the cartos I am looking at now. I really think the problem is particular to Kanger.
 

mwa102464

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All KR8 compatibles should be at 4.2v, and yes, it stays at 4.2v until near the end of the battery charge, when it drops, and you can easily notice the resulting drop in vapor.

And yes, the new model still has the slotted bottom.

Here's a link to the current Fusion: Electronic Cigarette Starter Kits



Well, I will see whether the R4 CE2s have any bad taste. I haven't noticed any bad taste from the new Fusion replacement I am looking at. But I do know the taste you mean. Kind of perfumy, kind of flowery, kind of chemically? Usualy subtle, but with some liquids it comes through stronger than others?

That drove me crazy when I was working at V4L. I was trying everything to solve it, and every time I thought I had it, it cropped up again and proved me wrong. First I thought it was the liquids, then I thought it might be from handling errors, my last theory was that it was the filler material Kanger uses. Either the filler itself, or something that got on the filler either in processing or from the environment.

V4L stopped having those problems when we switched to different carto manufacturers. And like I said, I haven't detected it on the cartos I am looking at now. I really think the problem is particular to Kanger.

So all my V4L batts are 4.2, wow I never knew that I always thought they where 3.7, learn something new everyday
 

br5495

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All KR8 compatibles should be at 4.2v, and yes, it stays at 4.2v until near the end of the battery charge, when it drops, and you can easily notice the resulting drop in vapor.
I'd like to learn more about the 4.2 volt battery. Since it stays at 4.2 volts until near the end of the charge, does this mean that it has a somewhat higher voltage that is regulated to maintain 4.2 volts? Also, what is the charging voltage?
 

leaford

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Well, I still can't find that thread, which was a comparison between voltages of several different model's battery voltages, but I found plenty of other threads to 1) prove me wrong, and 2) refresh my memory a bit. :oops:

IIRC (this time), the KR8 batts start at 4.2, but drop to 3.7 for most of their charge. Whereas most other models, like the 510 for example, start at 3.7, but run at 3.1 for most of their charge. THAT is the voltage advantage I was thinking of. But, it looks like I was wrong about it staying at 4.2 throughout its charge.

Sorry to mislead, I should have checked before I opened my mouth. :oops:
 

br5495

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I am checking with the engineers to make sure I am correct. But my initial answer was based on testing done by a forum member, I will see if I can find that post.

Thanks for the reply leaford. The 4.2 voltage caught my eye because that is the voltage that I measure on a charger when a 3.7 volt battery is fully charged. The rig I have allows me to measure this voltage while the battery is being charged, and also measure the battery voltage while it is in actual use.
 

br5495

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Well, I still can't find that thread, which was a comparison between voltages of several different model's battery voltages, but I found plenty of other threads to 1) prove me wrong, and 2) refresh my memory a bit. :oops:

IIRC (this time), the KR8 batts start at 4.2, but drop to 3.7 for most of their charge. Whereas most other models, like the 510 for example, start at 3.7, but run at 3.1 for most of their charge. THAT is the voltage advantage I was thinking of. But, it looks like I was wrong about it staying at 4.2 throughout its charge.

Sorry to mislead, I should have checked before I opened my mouth. :oops:

I understand and you are forgiven, heheh. I always admire a man who owns up to his mistakes. Your current findings agree with my prior measurements.
 

Turbo

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Well, I still can't find that thread, which was a comparison between voltages of several different model's battery voltages, but I found plenty of other threads to 1) prove me wrong, and 2) refresh my memory a bit. :oops:

IIRC (this time), the KR8 batts start at 4.2, but drop to 3.7 for most of their charge. Whereas most other models, like the 510 for example, start at 3.7, but run at 3.1 for most of their charge. THAT is the voltage advantage I was thinking of. But, it looks like I was wrong about it staying at 4.2 throughout its charge.

Sorry to mislead, I should have checked before I opened my mouth. :oops:

I was going to quote 'scottbee's test but thought you may be working on something different. But still, the 808 is the only true 3.7volt stock device he tested under load.
 

BanjoMan

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TO be honest my personal knowledge is a bit out of date. The last sample I had was the original version, which we all know had problems with the wick burning. :laugh:

That was just before my mother got sick, and after that I followed the first thread about the CE2 through the first revision or two. But after that I wasn't following much of anything, I kinda withdrew from everything for awhile.

Next week I will tour their factory again, and get samples of the latest revision, and can tell you then what I think. I like what I've heard you guys say about the R4, though. And I want to give BIG kudos to badkolo, and everyone else who followed up on this model and helped push Microcig/Royalsmoker to improve it. As I said, I dropped the ball, BK picked it up and ran, ran, RAN with it! BIG thumbs up! :thumbs:

Any updates to report here, Leaford?
 

leaford

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Any updates to report here, Leaford?

Sort of. I picked up a couple of Mega CE2 cartos, and am waiting for them to finish making some more samples for me. First impressions are good. No burnt wicks, no leaking, no glue taste. Refilled them both a couple of times, although I have to admit neither were empty yet. I'm just not that patient. :laugh:

Anyway, I have the real samples coming, in a couple of different resistances, to find the best resistance level for KR8 batteries.. I think they're pretty good, and we might just pick them up. But I can't say for sure until I put them through their full paces.

But I want to ask you guys, is there anything I should be on the look out for? Any problems you've experienced with the latest version you want to make sure are solved?
 
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badkolo

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the diameter needs to be bigger, we need a fatter e2.

the wicks in the mega e2 need to be longer since they are to short now.

with the new sleeve around the cup that prevents leaking it also takes up space between the cup and the wall of the e2 which doesnt give enough room for juice to flow upwards through the wick.

a new wick would be nice but they wont budge on that. the wick does work but a fatter e2 would solve many issues as we have discovered with the tank mod. thanks
 

BanjoMan

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Sort of. I picked up a couple of Mega CE2 cartos, and am waiting for them to finish making some more samples for me. First impressions are good. No burnt wicks, no leaking, no glue taste. Refilled them both a couple of times, although I have to admit neither were empty yet. I'm just not that patient. :laugh:

Anyway, I have the real samples coming, in a couple of different resistances, to find the best resistance level for KR8 batteries.. I think they're pretty good, and we might just pick them up. But I can't say for sure until I put them through their full paces.

But I want to ask you guys, is there anything I should be on the look out for? Any problems you've experienced with the latest version you want to make sure are solved?

From what I've read from some recent shipments two things come to mind: A few people have taken the XL's apart and found that the wicks on some of them are far too short, making them impossible to use after the carto is more than half empty. Others have reported wicks with a yellow stain that smelled of urine. Hopefully this is all QC stuff that will be straightened out, but it's disturbing at this late date they're still having issues like this. I have another shipment due in a few days but I'm not using any of them until I pull the plugs out and inspect the wicks. I don't like surprises. :)
 

br5495

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I believe that it is possible and maybe even more practical to eliminate the holes in the ceramic cup for the coil wires. This will eliminate the need for the extra shrink wrap on the cup. I honestly believe that the wires can lay in the same slot along with the wick. If done correctly, I don't think it will reduce the wicking capability. The wires should lay in the square corner of each slot and actually reduce the possibility of leaking. I don't believe that it will be a problem to hold everything in place. If this can be made to work, then assembly will be much easier and quicker, and the production cost will be less.

I've been thinking about trying this modification, but have been too busy with other experiments to get around to it yet.
 
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