Let's Talk Hardware

[Dusty_D]

Quick ErlPrinz question for Dusty... I tried again to do a non-leaking refill. Only lost half a mil of juice this time.

After it's closed up and cleaned up, it works perfectly with no leaks. I have no wicking problems even if I chain vape.

It didn't begin to leak immediately when I was refilling. I know that more juice in the tank increases the pressure on the vacuum seal, making it more likely to leak. It seems like I can't go past about 75% fill before it starts leaking.

My question is - could this be a problem with my wick "shoulders" not being tall enough, or fluffy enough to keep the seal? If not, I'm stumped. I used a soft squeeze bottle with a green luer lock plastic tip. juice went into the tank at a nice, smooth pace. Not too much force, and not too slowly.

I'd love to see a picture of your wick setup before you put the chimney back on.

Here's my process for wicking the ErlP. I pull the wick through the coil. Pull a few fibres from the bottom side of the wick towards the channels. These fibres will reside in the channels and cut to length. The rest of the wick, I align my scissors in line with the curved section of the deck, and cut straight through the wick. This leaves me two puffy bow-ties on either side of the coil, with a few fibres going straight down into the channels. Once the chimney is screwed on, the fluffy part of the wick forms a seal that prevents liquid from flooding the chimney. This is also what helps when refilling.

What method are you using to refill, and how long does a refill take you? I use a syringe and am in and out in under 5 seconds. No chance for the pressure to build up to push the liquid to the point of flooding.

 

[LAwaters]

I'd love to see a picture of your wick setup before you put the chimney back on.

Here's my process for wicking the ErlP. I pull the wick through the coil. Pull a few fibres from the bottom side of the wick towards the channels. These fibres will reside in the channels and cut to length. The rest of the wick, I align my scissors in line with the curved section of the deck, and cut straight through the wick. This leaves me two puffy bow-ties on either side of the coil, with a few fibres going straight down into the channels. Once the chimney is screwed on, the fluffy part of the wick forms a seal that prevents liquid from flooding the chimney. This is also what helps when refilling.

What method are you using to refill, and how long does a refill take you? I use a syringe and am in and out in under 5 seconds. No chance for the pressure to build up to push the liquid to the point of flooding.

My wick process is the same as yours, and the bow ties were like the ones in your pic. I think speed might be the problem. I'll try to remember to post a pic on the next rewick.

Should the tank be upright while refilling, or tilted like is recommended with the Kayfuns?

 

[Dusty_D]

My wick process is the same as yours, and the bow ties were like the ones in your pic. I think speed might be the problem. I'll try to remember to post a pic on the next rewick.

Should the tank be upright while refilling, or tilted like is recommended with the Kayfuns?

I fill mine pretty much upright. My syringe only holds around 3 or 4 ml, so usually requires approximately 2 fills. I close off the fill holes on the ErlP while I am refilling my syringe with juice.

 

[LAwaters]

I fill mine pretty much upright. My syringe only holds around 3 or 4 ml, so usually requires approximately 2 fills. I close off the fill holes on the ErlP while I am refilling my syringe with juice.

Thanks! Yeah, that was my mistake the first time - not closing it up while I refilled the syringe. The bottle holds 15 ml, that's why I switched to it, so I could fill it up in one go.

 

[retic1959]

I'd love to see a picture of your wick setup before you put the chimney back on. Here's my process for wicking the ErlP. I pull the wick through the coil. Pull a few fibres from the bottom side of the wick towards the channels. These fibres will reside in the channels and cut to length. The rest of the wick, I align my scissors in line with the curved section of the deck, and cut straight through the wick. This leaves me two puffy bow-ties on either side of the coil, with a few fibres going straight down into the channels. Once the chimney is screwed on, the fluffy part of the wick forms a seal that prevents liquid from flooding the chimney. This is also what helps when refilling. What method are you using to refill, and how long does a refill take you? I use a syringe and am in and out in under 5 seconds. No chance for the pressure to build up to push the liquid to the point of flooding.

Looks like a mullet haircut from the 1980's .

 

[Dusty_D]

Looks like a mullet haircut from the 1980's .

Thank goodness that craze stayed here in the U.S and didn't make it across to India!

I still see folks these days with Mullet haircuts, usually on those rare visits to Walmart!

 

[kkay59]

Okay my batteries came in, with the wire, and Kayfun o ring kit. (plus bottles with blunt tips) So I put the batteries on the charger to make sure they were full, and the same volts. They both said 3.6, and they weren't charging. Strange. They should be 3.7.... So I got out an older battery, and tested it with my battery charger. It said 4.0 volts. So I put it on my multimeter, and it said 3.99 volts. So those EFest batteries should be reading 3.7v. What is going on with that? I got these from Lightning Vapes. I tried to check on the Efest site where the authenticity check is, but I didn't find it. I emailed them and asked where it was. That was BEFORE I realized it was 3.6 volts. Since the charger didn't charge it, it thought it was full. Very strange. Thoughts?

 

[kkay59]

Retic, I looked. My Aqua2 is still in CHINA.

 

[retic1959]

Okay my batteries came in, with the wire, and Kayfun o ring kit. (plus bottles with blunt tips) So I put the batteries on the charger to make sure they were full, and the same volts. They both said 3.6, and they weren't charging. Strange. They should be 3.7.... So I got out an older battery, and tested it with my battery charger. It said 4.0 volts. So I put it on my multimeter, and it said 3.99 volts. So those EFest batteries should be reading 3.7v. What is going on with that? I got these from Lightning Vapes. I tried to check on the Efest site where the authenticity check is, but I didn't find it. I emailed them and asked where it was. That was BEFORE I realized it was 3.6 volts. Since the charger didn't charge it, it thought it was full. Very strange. Thoughts?

They should charge , do you have different settings on the charger or is it automatic ?

 

[retic1959]

Retic, I looked. My Aqua2 is still in CHINA.

Don't believe everything tracking says , according to it my Aqua was still in chicago this morning .

 

[MostlySunny]

How much does that ErlP hold? Dusty, I sent you a 10 ml syringe which I thought was overkill but maybe you'll find it usefull? I personally don't like the extra pressure required to push the plunger on anything larger than 3ml.

I'd also like to clarify something with the DNA40. It is temp protection, not temp control. You set it for your high end limit, adjust the watts to your preference. The pre-heat will take you to 100 degrees less than your limit. Some people will use it as a temp control and it's not what it was designed for. Any vape while the TP is flashing is very choppy (I saw this also in PB's P3 video). The idea is to get your build and watts to what is enjoyable without hitting TP. The TP is more of a warning, something's too hot in here! Which is either wicking or the tank is almost empty.

Good luck Lori on your leaking issue. It's fun to read about all the little nuances.

 

[PapawBrett]

Prototype Glow in the Dark Resin Reos Grand. If we take up a collection and buy one for BK, how many hours / experiments would he spend staring at this ?

For more information you could look here, but the first five or six pages are nothing but "ooohh Rob", "Oh my, Rob" and "Way to Go Rob !'. You would think some of these Vaping Personalities were Cultural Icons or something........

http://www.e-cgarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/638073-resin-mods.html

 

[Dusty_D]

How much does that ErlP hold? Dusty, I sent you a 10 ml syringe which I thought was overkill but maybe you'll find it usefull? I personally don't like the extra pressure required to push the plunger on anything larger than 3ml.

I'd also like to clarify something with the DNA40. It is temp protection, not temp control. You set it for your high end limit, adjust the watts to your preference. The pre-heat will take you to 100 degrees less than your limit. Some people will use it as a temp control and it's not what it was designed for. Any vape while the TP is flashing is very choppy (I saw this also in PB's P3 video). The idea is to get your build and watts to what is enjoyable without hitting TP. The TP is more of a warning, something's too hot in here! Which is either wicking or the tank is almost empty.

Good luck Lori on your leaking issue. It's fun to read about all the little nuances.

I usually fill the ErlP with around 6 or 7 ml.

 

[kkay59]

Retic, there are no settings. It tells you exactly where it is. It shows when it is charging, each battery. It can do four at one time. When one is full, it stops charging that one. It continues the rest until they are full. I got tired of fooling with those cruddy chargers. I wanted something good. I loved this thing when I got it. It has digital read outs the whole time.

Automatically selects charging modes based on the battery loaded
http://www.fenix-store.com/fenix-are-c2-advanced-multi-charger/
<<<The charger is capable of charging four different rechargeable batteries simultaneously. The LCD display keeps you informed with readouts of voltage and charging statuses. Utilizing Fenix's exclusive accelerated charging technology, the charger takes only three and a half hours to fully charge four ARB-L2 (2600 mAh) 18650 rechargeable batteries.>>>

They should charge , do you have different settings on the charger or is it automatic ?

 

[Dusty_D]

Retic, there are no settings. It tells you exactly where it is. It shows when it is charging, each battery. It can do four at one time. When one is full, it stops charging that one. It continues the rest until they are full. I got tired of fooling with those cruddy chargers. I wanted something good. I loved this thing when I got it. It has digital read outs the whole time.

Automatically selects charging modes based on the battery loaded
Fenix ARE-C2 Advanced Multi-Charger - Fenix-Store
<<<The charger is capable of charging four different rechargeable batteries simultaneously. The LCD display keeps you informed with readouts of voltage and charging statuses. Utilizing Fenix's exclusive accelerated charging technology, the charger takes only three and a half hours to fully charge four ARB-L2 (2600 mAh) 18650 rechargeable batteries.>>>

Kelly, put the batteries on the charger and leave them there. It could be that they ship without a residual charge and need to build up their charge first..

 

[Bronze]

Kelly, put the batteries on the charger and leave them there. It could be that they ship without a residual charge and need to build up their charge first..

I second the motion.

 

[rdsok]

Okay my batteries came in, with the wire, and Kayfun o ring kit. (plus bottles with blunt tips) So I put the batteries on the charger to make sure they were full, and the same volts. They both said 3.6, and they weren't charging. Strange. They should be 3.7.... So I got out an older battery, and tested it with my battery charger. It said 4.0 volts. So I put it on my multimeter, and it said 3.99 volts. So those EFest batteries should be reading 3.7v. What is going on with that? I got these from Lightning Vapes. I tried to check on the Efest site where the authenticity check is, but I didn't find it. I emailed them and asked where it was. That was BEFORE I realized it was 3.6 volts. Since the charger didn't charge it, it thought it was full. Very strange. Thoughts?

I meant to answer some of your battery questions from last night... but got caught up with trying to see Comet Lovejoy and forgot

The batteries we typically use have what is referred to as a nominal voltage of 3.7v ... that isn't what it's voltage is when they are fully charged. It is their "middle" voltage charge they have... it is also referred to by some as their storage voltage since it's the voltage they are most stable at. When these batteries have a full charge... they should have 4.2v and no more ( charging beyond that is very hard on them and ends up limiting their potential lifespan ). When they are "empty... they still have about 3.2v of charge left in them but taking them down to that level is also hard on them... most recommend only taking one down to 3.4-3.5v at most.... the 3.4v equates to them having used 80% of their total capacity.

The capacity of a battery is listed in Amp Hour ( ah ) or Milli-Amp Hour ( mah ). 1 ah is equal to 1000 mah. If you use up 80% of the batteries capacity ( which would leave about 3.4v ) then with a 1000mah battery you will have used 800mah of it's total charge.

The amperage discharge rate for a battery is rated with a C rating. The C rating is based on the total capacity of the battery so a 1000mah battery with a 1C discharge rating can discharge at 1 amp ( ie 1000ma )... at a 2C rating it would be able to put out 2 amps of power. There is also a charge rate for the battery also using the C rating method. The discharge rating is usually much higher than the batteries charge rating. So knowing both the charge and discharge C rating is important but they still often don't tell us both ratings, I suspect for marketing reasons. Another marketing ploy we see is a battery just advertised at it's maximum burst amperage instead of its max constant discharge amperage... so watch out for this... it just means those types of batteries can put out that amperage for just a short while usually a few seconds at most.

Now let's put some of that info to use in an example battery... the new AW 18650 2200mah battery let's say. It's max constant amp output is 20a and it's max charge amperage is 2.2a ... that means the discharge rate is about 9C ( 2.2a x 9 ) and the max charge amperage is 1C ( 2.2a x 1 )

Most, but not all... batteries can be charged at 1C safely but if you don't know... don't exceed 500mah ( 1/2 A ) just to be safe.

 

[PapawBrett]

OK, I've been reading up on the prototype Resin Reos. So far the answers I've gotten are 1) Woodvil sized 18650 mods. 2) Top Deck Fire Button (uhg !) 3) Low Profile Only. Rob is now only offering the 'Classic' Juice Wells in metals. (mostly for older customers who have a preference) 4) these Mods, as all newer Reos, will contain the Gold Plated (sub-ohm) Contacts. 5) These will also contain the new 510 Connectors 6) No Quantities, Price or Sale Date mentioned yet.

Numbers 2 and 3 are probably deal killers for me. Top Deck Fire Buttons are awkward on a mod that large, even for my long fingers. And I guess I am one of the 'old farts' who is gravitating back towards the Classic Grand / RM2.

 

[Bronze]

OK, I've been reading up on the prototype Resin Reos. So far the answers I've gotten are 1) Woodvil sized 18650 mods. 2) Top Deck Fire Button (uhg !) 3) Low Profile Only. Rob is now only offering the 'Classic' Juice Wells in metals. (mostly for older customers who have a preference) 4) these Mods, as all newer Reos, will contain the Gold Plated (sub-ohm) Contacts. 5) These will also contain the new 510 Connectors 6) No Quantities, Price or Sale Date mentioned yet.

Numbers 2 and 3 are probably deal killers for me. Top Deck Fire Buttons are awkward on a mod that large, even for my long fingers. And I guess I am one of the 'old farts' who is gravitating back towards the Classic Grand / RM2.

Is he straying from his expertise by going with resin?

 

[PapawBrett]

Is he straying from his expertise by going with resin?

I don't know if he's straying or expanding. There are those who Love the Woodvil (like me) but question it's durability (like me). I think Rob is trying to provide an alternative to the Classic Aluminum Grand that might be more durable. The Lower Profile for the newer RBA / tank market, the gold plated contacts that allow for sub-ohming and the Stainless Steel one-piece 510 Connectors are apparently permanent upgrades.