Let's Talk Hardware
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That's fine... you may want to wait just a bit then...
There are issues reported with the insulator in the RTA deck using juices that can crack plastic tanks and such... it's getting melted. They are going to replace that with something more durable now.
i see. a shame. a beautiful tank and they scrimped on a part that probably cost them a penny
I'm not much on the on conspiracy theories... I think they just plain ole messed up on that one and didn't see it coming.
Thank you RJ. I had seen portions of that when I first got the Kayfun. I wasn't up to more experienced parts of that build though at that time! I don't wick like he does at all. I mainly use Japanese cotton. His insulator just popped out. He obviously has the right fit for one. The one in mine would not pop put for anything. I put it in very hot water, no luck. I tried to pry it out, no luck. I finally got a cauterizer and worked on it with that. Once it got hot enough in there, the bottom 2/3 of it slipped right out. It was a beast I tell you. Even with the one in there now, it is not going to come out easily. I put a tiny bit of mineral oil on there, hoping to be able to get it to slide easier. (if I ever wanted to take it out without having a repeat scenario with the cauterizer) It looked flush. I added the pin, and when I tightened it barely, it made the insulator go down just a hair too much. I tried mashing it with my finger. I don't remember now how I got it to go back up just flush again. I did not think about using a small punch though. Not to worry, I don't plan on pulling that thing out again, unless absolutely necessary. At least now I have a better idea what to do. I even thought about cutting off a part of another insulator, and adding that on top of the other to give it a tiny bit more in height. That would not be easy because that is fairly hard plastic like material, and it is rather small. Anyway, I appreciate you looking this up for me, and posting it!
Good , I'm glad you got it running again , I know you're curious but try to keep the exploratory surgery to a minimum until you've got backups for your backups .
Just for future reference KK , the only time you need to change an insulater on a Kayfun is if you suceed in melting them , it would take a low subohm build and chain vaping or a stuck fire button to accomplish that .
You should check the collector tank every time you rinse and rewick , it holds water as well as juice .So you never check the collector tank to see if it needs to be drained? I read somewhere to do that, once in a while. I think it said when you replace your coil. I have a pretty good feel for the Kayfun 3.1...I am not a pro by any wild stretch of the imagination. The center pin screw goes into the insulator, which goes into the bottom called a collector tank. From the picture it looks cut and dry. Obviously it is not. I looked for videos on it, but found none on the Kayfun. According to a pdf file from the Kayfun folks, I have everything set in the right way. I am going to try the o ring trick first, that Retic mentioned. There is no more tweaking that needs to be done. I've changed everything out. In the future though, I am going to try to resist a bottom insulator change out, if at all possible.
What I would like to know is, Why has the Collector tank never come up in conversation before?! 
R
*RJ*
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I think you are way ahead of the game kkay! You are doing fabulously!! And you are probably helping a lot of folks along the way in your journey. Keep asking questions...this is what it's all about.
And you are probably helping a lot of folks along the way in your journey. Keep asking questions...this is what it's all about.
got to thinking about PWM and how so many people were fussin about it not providing a consistant vape.... but in reality it doesnt matter cuz when you inhale, you cant create a consistant airflow due to variations of lung draw and heartbeat...
My squape R clone by EHPro logo less arrived yesterday. It came in a lovely lined box with spare parts and all 3 decks. It appeared clean and was easy to take apart. I let it soak and warm sudsy water overnight. I'll give it a good scrubbing today (although this seems unnecessary as it's very clean). Looks easy to build on as it has a deck with a groove to hold the drill bit/screw etc in place while you mount it. And that groove also holds the proper amount of wick. I'll have some time later today to get it up and running.
I really find this Square R interesting. I can't wait to hear what you think about it.
Pulse width modulation. Specifically (as BK refers to it), low frequency PWM. It's a voltage delivery method. Its effect is that it burns hotter at the same voltage settings as non-LF PWM mods. No need to concern yourself with it other than I recommend staying away from low frequency PWM for now (the iStick uses it).
Ah yes. The iStick is hotter than the MVP2. I don't care for that on the lower ohm. It can't handle a 1.5 or 1.6 ohm atty without being too hot, at the very lowest setting. For the 1.8 clearomizers though, it was spectacular, as long as you went on average 2 watts below normal.
This has to be the easiest tank in the world!
3mm machine screw fits perfectly in the W deck groove.
A little video on taking the screw out
http://youtu.be/T4Ml_wGuQXM
Beautiful!
Now it's wicked and ready to go!
Vapor is about 10x what I get on the KFL, flavor about the same. A million times easier to build a nickel coil on that fits easily.
3mm machine screw fits perfectly in the W deck groove.
A little video on taking the screw out
http://youtu.be/T4Ml_wGuQXM
Beautiful!
Now it's wicked and ready to go!
Vapor is about 10x what I get on the KFL, flavor about the same. A million times easier to build a nickel coil on that fits easily.
I am so happy for you dear! That sounds WONDERFUL. 
I am going to watch your video later. I can't wait to see it!
I have the Aqua2 going again. Turns out I believe it was a sharp point on the thread, that cut into that o ring. I worked on it a little, and now it is buttery smooth. Another sigh of relief. I tried to put it on yesterday, and it still didn't feel right. Now the plastic tank is not skipping a thread anymore either. I checked all the threads, and felt for sharp spots. I like to do this with a q tip. If the q tip catches, look right there, and work on it. (a little trick from working on on old fiberglass fly rod gudelines) Buttery smooth. I am so relieved it is not even funny.
I am going to watch your video later. I can't wait to see it!I have the Aqua2 going again. Turns out I believe it was a sharp point on the thread, that cut into that o ring. I worked on it a little, and now it is buttery smooth. Another sigh of relief. I tried to put it on yesterday, and it still didn't feel right. Now the plastic tank is not skipping a thread anymore either. I checked all the threads, and felt for sharp spots. I like to do this with a q tip. If the q tip catches, look right there, and work on it. (a little trick from working on on old fiberglass fly rod gudelines) Buttery smooth. I am so relieved it is not even funny.
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No clue why that double posted. KK I think you'd find it very easy. The groove holds the drill bit or screw perfectly so it's not sliding all around while securing the legs. It's a little loud and gurgles a smidge, might even be leaking... Not sure. Need some more time with it. I imagine the original doesn't at all. I'll keep you posted.
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