Let's Talk Hardware
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That's it. I hate seeing you (KK) frustrated to the point of thinking about buying a pack of cigarettes. Wish I could stop by and sit at your table and see what's going on and how I maybe I could help.
I had the Aqua 2 going in single coil. I decided to wait on the double coil until I got the Kayfun going. I wasn't tinkering with the Aqua 2, the o ring came off. I put it back in. That is not tinkering. I had already mentioned to someone that the threading didn't seem right on the plastic tank. I was afraid it was going to leak. It held, I was surprised. As you started it, it was fine, somewhere down the line, it skipped a thread, or that is what if felt like. The o ring must have been the cause. It is not seating as tightly as you would think it should.
I have learned a lesson though, don't get me wrong. I did not think putting an insulator in a hole was going to be a huge deal. Now I know different. Lesson learned. I like to have the maintenance done, so I don't have uh ohs later. I don't like uh ohs. It was my understanding when I bought the Kayfun kit, that it would work for my Kayfun, even though it said Kayfun Lite I think it was.
Now on to the Panzer. I wasn't tinkering with the Panzer until I was locking it. (then I was going to sit it down) It went more than it should have, and I wondered why it was taking more turns than before. Just as I was thinking that, the Panzer firing button fell off in the floor. There began my journey down that path. I was taking the end cap off and putting it back on to check the battery voltage. I did not want to depend on guessing as to when it was low enough. I believe the trouble was from that round pin backing off. I tried to use just finger tightness, but that didn't work. I hated to do it, but used pliers to lock it in. Then I got it it too tight twice, while putting it back together, if I am remembering that right. The folks who have helped me, I do appreciate it. I just want you all to understand my thoughts on this. I am taking a break temporarily from it. I just want to see the Aqua2 diagram. I think the threads cut the o ring. I am going to have to get my magnification headgear on to see it better.
I have learned a lesson though, don't get me wrong. I did not think putting an insulator in a hole was going to be a huge deal. Now I know different. Lesson learned. I like to have the maintenance done, so I don't have uh ohs later. I don't like uh ohs. It was my understanding when I bought the Kayfun kit, that it would work for my Kayfun, even though it said Kayfun Lite I think it was.
Now on to the Panzer. I wasn't tinkering with the Panzer until I was locking it. (then I was going to sit it down) It went more than it should have, and I wondered why it was taking more turns than before. Just as I was thinking that, the Panzer firing button fell off in the floor. There began my journey down that path. I was taking the end cap off and putting it back on to check the battery voltage. I did not want to depend on guessing as to when it was low enough. I believe the trouble was from that round pin backing off. I tried to use just finger tightness, but that didn't work. I hated to do it, but used pliers to lock it in. Then I got it it too tight twice, while putting it back together, if I am remembering that right. The folks who have helped me, I do appreciate it. I just want you all to understand my thoughts on this. I am taking a break temporarily from it. I just want to see the Aqua2 diagram. I think the threads cut the o ring. I am going to have to get my magnification headgear on to see it better.
As I mentioned to you previously (and I see others are starting to do the same), use your Kayfun and put the rest of your gear to the side. Become a Kayfun pro to the point you can spin one on your fingertip. Then go back to your gear pile.
Bronze, I tried being a "pro" on the Kayfun, remember? I am trying to sort out somewhere between if it ain't broke don't fix it, and knowing it inside and out. From the photo on the pdf file, it looked like such a simple thing. I can take an old fly reel, and clean it up, and make it just about like brand new. Yes it isn't the exact same, but it is not that far from it. When people talk about 1A, 1B, 1C in a Kayfun, they were looking at a diagram. Maybe they have it all down with a photographic memory. I don't have that. I like pictures, and videos. If that doesn't get it, I ask for help.
rdsok, thank you. Yes, it is that kind of knowledge that I seek. I think most devices have some little quirk with it. You have to know it, and account for it. I had an old Chevy Nova. It had a butterfly valve that would stick on it. At first I didn't know what the heck, and couldn't get the car started. But after someone told me what the problem was, I could get out, pop the hood, and adjust it.
I cannot afford to keep myself up with Aspire coils. Plus I am wondering just how safe they are. I needed a fresh coil every 3 days. Not bad if you just have one tank maybe. I had several, and used them all everyday. I may try to rebuild some of those, now that I have wire. But not right now. I have my hands full at the moment.
I cannot afford to keep myself up with Aspire coils. Plus I am wondering just how safe they are. I needed a fresh coil every 3 days. Not bad if you just have one tank maybe. I had several, and used them all everyday. I may try to rebuild some of those, now that I have wire. But not right now. I have my hands full at the moment.
I couldn't tell you what a 1A, 1B, or 1C on a Kayfun was if it meant saving my life. All I know is there are eight pieces. A drip tip, top cap, 3 tank segments, a base, chimney, and tin man's hat. And the only one that needs any tinkering is the base w/build deck. None of the other parts matter. If you're telling me you can break down fly fishing reels and bring them back to new then there is no doubt you can master a Kayfun.
Just remind yourself...you can't vape with a reel and you can't fish with a Kayfun. They require different levels of maintenance and (I speak from experience), the Kayfuns are much simpler. Disassemble only what needs to be disassembled. If you have a dud Kayfun (or transformed it into a dud), then start over with a new one.
So you never check the collector tank to see if it needs to be drained? I read somewhere to do that, once in a while. I think it said when you replace your coil. I have a pretty good feel for the Kayfun 3.1...I am not a pro by any wild stretch of the imagination. The center pin screw goes into the insulator, which goes into the bottom called a collector tank. From the picture it looks cut and dry. Obviously it is not. I looked for videos on it, but found none on the Kayfun. According to a pdf file from the Kayfun folks, I have everything set in the right way. I am going to try the o ring trick first, that Retic mentioned. There is no more tweaking that needs to be done. I've changed everything out. In the future though, I am going to try to resist a bottom insulator change out, if at all possible.
So you never check the collector tank to see if it needs to be drained? I read somewhere to do that, once in a while. I think it said when you replace your coil. I have a pretty good feel for the Kayfun 3.1...I am not a pro by any wild stretch of the imagination. The center pin screw goes into the insulator, which goes into the bottom called a collector tank. From the picture it looks cut and dry. Obviously it is not. I looked for videos on it, but found none on the Kayfun. According to a pdf file from the Kayfun folks, I have everything set in the right way. I am going to try the o ring trick first, that Retic mentioned. There is no more tweaking that needs to be done. I've changed everything out. In the future though, I am going to try to resist a bottom insulator change out, if at all possible.
Oops, I forgot you have a 3.1. I have Kayfun Lites. Slightly different animal. No collector tanks on a KFL Lite. The Lites are simpler than the 3.1's. Same vape, just a little simpler.
Most of us have the KFL's, not the 3.1. I know for a fact that April, Bronze, Robin and I do, along with a couple others. No collector tank on the KFL's.
R
*RJ*
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See if this helps Kelly...
So you never check the collector tank to see if it needs to be drained? I read somewhere to do that, once in a while. I think it said when you replace your coil. I have a pretty good feel for the Kayfun 3.1...I am not a pro by any wild stretch of the imagination. The center pin screw goes into the insulator, which goes into the bottom called a collector tank. From the picture it looks cut and dry. Obviously it is not. I looked for videos on it, but found none on the Kayfun. According to a pdf file from the Kayfun folks, I have everything set in the right way. I am going to try the o ring trick first, that Retic mentioned. There is no more tweaking that needs to be done. I've changed everything out. In the future though, I am going to try to resist a bottom insulator change out, if at all possible.
I think RD is the only one with a subtank...or was it something else?
Okay folks, I am pleased to announce the Kayfun 3.1 ES is in working condition now. Thank you Retic. I couldn't find an o ring to fit. But I decided to try a small punch. I didn't think I'd have one that worked. But I had a cheapo set from Harbor Freight. There was one in there that was small enough. I barely tapped on it maybe 5 light times. It is working now. I didn't want to give it a tighter snug that had to be on there, because I was cutting it close. I did not want any metal on the bottom of that hole exposed. The Kayfun is filled, and I'm vaping it now. Thank goodness. I was starting to sweat. Retic you are the man!
The Subtank is great... it's much airier than I'm used to and had to get used to that but once I got past that... I haven't touched my KFL or KFL+ v2
I got mine Dec 18th, so just shy of a month. Using MyVapeJuice's OurRY4 30PG/70VG ... I've only gone through two heads and I switched out the first early because I wanted to try the 1.2Ω head out. I've been vaping it between 23w-25w without having settled on a favorite setting yet.
Re-wicking is way too easy... you've got to be a little easy taking the old wick out since it's a spaced coil... so wiggle out the original wick, thread in some new japanese cotton through the side holes, trim and your done.
Re-coiling is only slightly tougher... remove the bottom pin and insulator... remove old wick/coil... wrap a new coil on a 3mm mandrel and drop it in... use a rod or something to keep the coil aligned with the holes on the side of the coil head.. re-insert the insulator and 510 pin... rewick through the side holes.
I'll be picking up the new 22mm Mini as well as the 18mm Nano versions once they are released. I'm uncertain if I'm even going to use the RTA deck with how easy the rewicking/recoiling on the heads are.
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