Let's Talk Hardware

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Bimini Twist

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Would just need a AFC cap since I have everything else but yeah I've noticed. Impossible to find. I know the vapor trading co had em on site but haven't been there in a while. Knowing them if they had em in shop they'd want me to buy entire unit.
Its cool I'm going to go the clone route to learn how to convert.
My LP will be here Monday with a lp rm2 so I'm good for now technically.
Kind of regret getting rid of the patriot and the nimbus now. Both look good on the LP.

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I ended up having to buy complete units a few months ago just to get the AFC cap. It never failed that right after getting them, a cap-only was available.

And I just converted one of the top-feeds to bottom feed. I messed up the 510 threads when I first tried extracting the positive post. So I ordered a die from Amazon to at least get it operational again. I didn't notice that I purchased from a slow-boat vendor on Amazon, but it finally got here.

Fixed the threads and decided to go ahead and convert it to BF. I went with the groove-in-the-insulator method and it works great. Better than the mfr'd BF version with its feed hole too far up the post.

I saw some black AFC caps somewhere recently. I think I'll go on the hunt here, too.
 

Bimini Twist

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Would just need a AFC cap since I have everything else but yeah I've noticed. Impossible to find. I know the vapor trading co had em on site but haven't been there in a while. Knowing them if they had em in shop they'd want me to buy entire unit.
Its cool I'm going to go the clone route to learn how to convert.
My LP will be here Monday with a lp rm2 so I'm good for now technically.
Kind of regret getting rid of the patriot and the nimbus now. Both look good on the LP.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

I ended up having to buy complete units a few months ago just to get the AFC cap. It never failed that right after getting them, a cap-only was available.

And I just converted one of the top-feeds to bottom feed. I messed up the 510 threads when I first tried extracting the positive post. So I ordered a die from Amazon to at least get it operational again. I didn't notice that I purchased from a slow-boat vendor on Amazon, but it finally got here.

Fixed the threads and decided to go ahead and convert it to BF. I went with the groove-in-the-insulator method and it works great. Better than the mfr'd BF version with its feed hole too far up the post.

I saw some black AFC caps somewhere recently. I think I'll go on the hunt here, too.
 

Bronze

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My SVD has had it's share of run in's with the ground and my Fasttech 3.1 hit the ground hard enough to separate the top tank section from the plastic middle section , I thought the threads would be stripped but they weren't , it screwed back together with no problems and no leaks , pure luck , but I'm only out $22 if I mangle that one so it's perfect for hazardous duty . :)

Headers have been well documented on the Kayfun thread. Most of the time the plastic segment lifts on one side. People just give it a pop with a hammer and it straightens out with no repercussions. I would consider it luck as well. :)
 

jefsview

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Headers have been well documented on the Kayfun thread. Most of the time the plastic segment lifts on one side. People just give it a pop with a hammer and it straightens out with no repercussions. I would consider it luck as well. :)

Yes. The cheap Rocket knockoff that I was gifted -- the plastic threads broke just unscrewing the top cap. The threads on that were always tight and the outside was hard to grip when vacuum sealed. Cheap through and through to thin material and rough threads, chrome-plated tinfoil.

But it got me interested in pursuing KFL-style devices and gacve me firsthand experience building and troubleshooting them, so the month or so I had with it was worthwhile and I found better quality products afterwards.

Now I know these things can withstand a fall. I'm grateful I didn't have my Fogger with me, with the glass tank. I would have been SOL :)
 

Bronze

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Yes. The cheap Rocket knockoff that I was gifted -- the plastic threads broke just unscrewing the top cap. The threads on that were always tight and the outside was hard to grip when vacuum sealed. Cheap through and through to thin material and rough threads, chrome-plated tinfoil.

But it got me interested in pursuing KFL-style devices and gacve me firsthand experience building and troubleshooting them, so the month or so I had with it was worthwhile and I found better quality products afterwards.

Now I know these things can withstand a fall. I'm grateful I didn't have my Fogger with me, with the glass tank. I would have been SOL :)

In other words, you get what you pay for. :)
 

LAwaters

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Yes. The cheap Rocket knockoff that I was gifted -- the plastic threads broke just unscrewing the top cap. The threads on that were always tight and the outside was hard to grip when vacuum sealed. Cheap through and through to thin material and rough threads, chrome-plated tinfoil.

But it got me interested in pursuing KFL-style devices and gacve me firsthand experience building and troubleshooting them, so the month or so I had with it was worthwhile and I found better quality products afterwards.

Now I know these things can withstand a fall. I'm grateful I didn't have my Fogger with me, with the glass tank. I would have been SOL :)

Good to know they are hardy - but sorry you had that drop experience! I did some speed reading to find out if your KFL survived. Phew.
 

DavidOH

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Speaking of KFL+ clones, Tuesday of this week as I was walking across the parking lot at work, I pulled out my mech with Legend filled EHPRO KFL+ on top and I lost my grip. The devices plummeted to the asphalt from my cargo pants pocket -- the KFL+ top cap POPPED! off.

I quickly picked up the pieces looking to see if I lost any parts before all of my LEGEND leaked out since with the KFLs I don't bring a back-up JDS. I found a bench and tried to get it back together. Usually the top cap sticks to the chimney and I end up unscrewing the chimney top when I remove the parts to clean it, so I thought the M-tank threads had broken with the fall. Surprisingly, they hadn't and I managed to get the top back on, but the seal HAD been broken and I had major leakage through the air hole and spent several minutes vaping the tanks upside down and blowing out LEGEND, but, finally after over-nic'ing myself and getting LEGEND in my mouth, it stopped leaking and the negative pressure was restored with 1/3 liquid left.
:)
Wednesday I finished the tank and disassembled to clean and found a nice scuff mark on the M-tank, but no threads were broken and all O-rings were intact. My poor Sentinel M16 clone had another gouge in it, but didn't short out of vent. My coil assembly was fine as well.

So, just a cautionary tale demonstrating the virility and build-quality of the EHPRO KFL+ clone -- even with the Mtank they providied, it takes a licking and keeps on ticking ;)

I can't look LEGEND in the face right now, so when I filled the tank I switched it out to Caramel Apple Tobacco.

No backup? Tsk tsk. I carry the KFL I'm using and one that is coiled and wicked but not filled. It's the backup and yes I have needed it already.
 

Bimini Twist

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jefsview

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No backup? Tsk tsk. I carry the KFL I'm using and one that is coiled and wicked but not filled. It's the backup and yes I have needed it already.

Yes, even though the hold enough for a full day of work, stuff does happen.

When I used Ego batteries, I always had a spare in the pocket. When I used the MVP for work, I always took an extra T2 besides the one attached to it. But for some reason with the mech in 18650 mode and a 2500 mAh battery inside and the KFL clones, I've only taken those. Silly me.

Kind of wish I still had those Ego batteries since their easier (and lighter) than the MVP and it has to be pocketable, since I am not leaving batteries in a car's interior in the heat of summertime.
 

jefsview

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Good to know they are hardy - but sorry you had that drop experience! I did some speed reading to find out if your KFL survived. Phew.

Yes, and I was nervous the entire time at work. Every chance I had I was feeling inside the pocket where I carry in checking for leaks or a hot mod.
 

Pappy

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When I got my first post-Twist mod it was a lavatube. I dropped and kicked that thing so many times it wasn't even funny. That poor PV was so abused! I finally wrecked it (and about a half dozen toppers that were on it). With the next mod, I started to take care of it better. Now I hardly ever drop them. The Provari has taken a few headers but it keeps on going. Never damaged my KFL.

I was driving my 4Runner one day and had my Provari and HC KF3.1 laying on the seat between my legs. I forgot about it when I got out and it dropped onto the concrete from seat level.

It's now got a little rough spot on the metal drip tip, but no other damage. I was impressed with its toughness.
 

Bronze

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I was driving my 4Runner one day and had my Provari and HC KF3.1 laying on the seat between my legs. I forgot about it when I got out and it dropped onto the concrete from seat level.

It's now got a little rough spot on the metal drip tip, but no other damage. I was impressed with its toughness.

What do you suppose the damage would be if it were a Nova?
 

LAwaters

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I was driving my 4Runner one day and had my Provari and HC KF3.1 laying on the seat between my legs. I forgot about it when I got out and it dropped onto the concrete from seat level.

It's now got a little rough spot on the metal drip tip, but no other damage. I was impressed with its toughness.

Again, good to hear. I'm so in love with my gear - especially my KFs - that these stories are gonna give me nightmares.
 

Bronze

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I've dropped those too. It usually bends the 510 stem so that the Nova sits at a funky angle and leaks to high holy heaven.

That's what happened to Robin's in her Provari. But it left a skin sunk inside the Provari threads and it was, for all intents and purposes, welded in there. I couldn't have done that if I tried. :)
 

Bimini Twist

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True, true. Okay, I'm just gonna hang onto the endings. I can be a bit clumsy, and it's a relief to know my gear is likely to be able to survive.

Most definitely. Don't let my shattered R91 pics scare you. As I said, the plastic was already weakened by tank cracker juice. I've dropped my KFL and KFL+ on concrete and one of them got that little nick in the mouth piece. Small enough that I didn't even feel the need to buff it out (I'm not inflicted with OCD ;)
 

DavidOH

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So I checked both my KFLs. On both of them the air hole does not line up with the slot on the post head. Both are just to the right of it. On one the air hole in the post lines up with the air hole in the body. On the other it's 1/8th off. Putting a spacer in will raise the block to high. So I may look at taking a little off the spacer if it's thick enough. Darn OCD.
 

retic1959

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    So I checked both my KFLs. On both of them the air hole does not line up with the slot on the post head. Both are just to the right of it. On one the air hole in the post lines up with the air hole in the body. On the other it's 1/8th off. Putting a spacer in will raise the block to high. So I may look at taking a little off the spacer if it's thick enough. Darn OCD.

    Be careful David , I kinda feel bad for telling you now .
     
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