Looking for a hybrid mech mod
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Personally, I don't like the whole idea behind the hybrid mods. When mech mods were in their prime, it was because they were the only things capable of hitting hard. With today's regulated mods, it makes the idea of a low internal resistance mech mod kind of outdated... and the whole idea behind a hybrid mech mod is simply dangerous and outdated. Most of the "exploding mech mods" have been because they were hybrids.. they're simply just dangerous.
However, if you do decide to go that route just for the sake of it being a hobby, let me first give the typical warnings... first, hybrids HAVE to have a perfect battery. Any scuffs on the side, or any dents in the positive connector means you should use a different battery. Make sure the center pin of the atomizer is WELL protruded from the sides. Most subtanks and RTA's aren't really made for hybrids, and I suggest you just don't use them with a hybrid. And lastly, most hybrids don't have locking rings to keep the resistance down.... so I don't advise it as an out and about mod.
Now, all suggestions and warnings aside, I'd personally get one that suits your looks. Unless you're just going for clouds, I'd say go for style and safety. make sure it has a delrin protector for the hybrid connector to minimize any battery shorting possibilities. I usually buy clones, and I think this twistgyre style combo will turn some heads. No reviews or comments, so it'd be a gamble on the quality. For simplicity sake, the 49 clone is cheap, and should do the trick. I'd probably pair it with the Derringer clone for taste.
For Authentic, your choices are quite limited.... Since most mod makers ask a premium for their art, I had a hard time finding any, and none made in the US.... perhaps you could find a used on.
Well, that is just my
worth...
However, if you do decide to go that route just for the sake of it being a hobby, let me first give the typical warnings... first, hybrids HAVE to have a perfect battery. Any scuffs on the side, or any dents in the positive connector means you should use a different battery. Make sure the center pin of the atomizer is WELL protruded from the sides. Most subtanks and RTA's aren't really made for hybrids, and I suggest you just don't use them with a hybrid. And lastly, most hybrids don't have locking rings to keep the resistance down.... so I don't advise it as an out and about mod.
Now, all suggestions and warnings aside, I'd personally get one that suits your looks. Unless you're just going for clouds, I'd say go for style and safety. make sure it has a delrin protector for the hybrid connector to minimize any battery shorting possibilities. I usually buy clones, and I think this twistgyre style combo will turn some heads. No reviews or comments, so it'd be a gamble on the quality. For simplicity sake, the 49 clone is cheap, and should do the trick. I'd probably pair it with the Derringer clone for taste.
For Authentic, your choices are quite limited.... Since most mod makers ask a premium for their art, I had a hard time finding any, and none made in the US.... perhaps you could find a used on.
Well, that is just my
worth...
Hybrid style direct to battery 510s are about looks, convenience and low manufacturing cost. But they are marketed and the common perception is that they are the 'next level' in terms of low voltage drop, this is usually not the case.
I recommend a Stingray X clone, small, very low voltage drop, self adjusting floating 510 pin, copper inner SS outer sleeve and pretty as hell. They can be picked up for about $25. They come with a 'hybrid' adapter should you wish to try it out but the difference in voltage drop is negligible.
I recommend a Stingray X clone, small, very low voltage drop, self adjusting floating 510 pin, copper inner SS outer sleeve and pretty as hell. They can be picked up for about $25. They come with a 'hybrid' adapter should you wish to try it out but the difference in voltage drop is negligible.
Hybrids can be very dangerous! Be very careful and learn battery safety before jumping into hybrids.
Thank you for replies. Is there a difference regarding safety authentic versus clones. [I.e] are more expensive mods any safer than knock offs?
I am not nitpicking your post, so please don't take offense, but i'm trying to make sure I am following you on the above quote. You do make a lot of very valid points in your post but it's not clear whether you are making a blanket statement towards all hybrids or not.
Does the quote above refer to the mods with "direct to battery caps" or are you referring to all hybrids in general? I feel a distinction should be made when you bring up the "exploding mech mod" debate since I own 7 true hybrids (not mods with direct to battery caps) and have never had any problem. I am careful about using good quality and condition, properly specced batteries and verifying coil resistance before use, which are rules that should be followed with any device. While I do agree with you on most points that mechs are potentially more dangerous than these "newfangled electronic devices", much like anything else these days (including driving) proper care must be taken to avoid dangerous situations.
If you are referring to mods with hybrid top caps, I agree that there is additional room for error (above and beyond normal mech and true hybrids) but I simply can't agree with your statement if you're also referring to true hybrids, such as the one shown by another poster above. A true hybrid is no more dangerous than any other mechanical but the same safety rules still obviously apply.
Having said that, if the OP is looking for a true hybrid, as opposed to a mod with a direct to battery cap, I suggest looking around for an iHybrid Pure. These can be found for very little money these days. Small and lightweight but not terribly attractive, it does provide a quality true hybrid experience on the cheap these days. I've seen quite a few new iHybrids available in the $20-$50 range. I just purchased one for my wife on clearance for $20 and she really likes it and uses it just as much as her higher build quality, nicer looking, and way more expensive M1 Juggernaut hybrid.
I got this copper Rune mod by Aria Built with a custom finish (the ones you can buy are usually just plain black). [Removed]
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Theoretically no, but in some cases, yes. One example I can think of, is a clone of a Tugboat RDA (the one hybrid I own). The original had a delrin piece that went on the top cap, and in the hybrid it was just missing. That is in one case, but that doesn't mean all clones are the same. Some clones are even better than the original, or totally identical. Just make sure if you get a review, you do some research as to what others have experienced.
One example of an authentic being worse than the clone, is the Manhattan Vs. the Fuhattan (sp?)... In the Authentic, there was some worries about proper battery venting. AV claimed it was safe, but one reviewer questioned it. When AV backlashed at the reviewer and threatened them, and it led to a backlash back at AV for being so harsh. That's where the Fuhattan came out... It was much cheaper, made almost identical, and they drilled some holes in the top for venting.
So, I don't have any preferences for authentic Vs. clones. It becomes a moral issue for 1:1 clones... other than that, I would review the clones as a totally different mod all together... just take the "style" as a rough idea of how it works.
A distinction must be made with the definition of a true hybrid and direct battery (faux hybrid) mod.
As izan pointed out, a true hybrid has no 510 threading between the atomizer and battery holder. Most hybrid mods have a dedicated juice attachment.
true hybrid mod and dedicated atomizer
A direct battery mod has threading for the 510 connector, but HAS NO CENTER PIN making contact with the battery. The top of the battery makes direct contact with the atomizer center pin. These devices must use an atomizer that has an EXTENDED center pin to avoid a hard short with the battery.
Note no center pin in the battery holder in the upper right image.
Extended center pin in the atomizer attachment
Direct battery, faux hybrid, and "hybrid-topped" mech mods can be extremely dangerous for inexperienced and uninformed vapers.
A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
As izan pointed out, a true hybrid has no 510 threading between the atomizer and battery holder. Most hybrid mods have a dedicated juice attachment.
true hybrid mod and dedicated atomizer
A direct battery mod has threading for the 510 connector, but HAS NO CENTER PIN making contact with the battery. The top of the battery makes direct contact with the atomizer center pin. These devices must use an atomizer that has an EXTENDED center pin to avoid a hard short with the battery.
Note no center pin in the battery holder in the upper right image.
Extended center pin in the atomizer attachment
Direct battery, faux hybrid, and "hybrid-topped" mech mods can be extremely dangerous for inexperienced and uninformed vapers.
A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
- Covers the differences between a mechanical vs. regulated mod, essential safety accessories, optional safety accessories to add layers of safety to your mech, routine maintanance, use of proper batteries, proper ventilation, low resistance vaping, and faux hybrid mods.
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First, I agree %100. but, it does pose a question.. is the only difference between a "true hybrid" and a Faux hybrid is the size of the connector?
Nope. A true hybrid can only use a dedicated atomizer that's designed to work with it. It is for this reason that true hybrids are some of the safest mech mods there are. Faux hybrids will accept any old 510 atomizer you decide to screw onto it, whether it's safe to do so or not. It is for this reason that faux hybrids can be highly dangerous in the hands of the uneducated and should only be used by knowledgeable experts. Despite the unfortunate similarity in name, there is a world of difference between the two.
There is no connector at all on a True Hybrid. The atomizer is the top cap, there is no other parts to it. If there is a separate top cap with threading to attach an atomizer, it's not a True Hybrid.
This is a True Hybrid:
Notice there are only 3 parts. The bottom button, the tube, and the atomizer which is the top of the mod.
This is a faux hybrid:
Notice how the top of the mod is just a threaded hole and you can screw in any atomizer you want into that hole?
That's the difference.
There is no connector at all on a True Hybrid. The atomizer is the top cap, there is no other parts to it. If there is a separate top cap with threading to attach an atomizer, it's not a True Hybrid.
This is a True Hybrid:
Notice there are only 3 parts. The bottom button, the tube, and the atomizer which is the top of the mod.
This is a faux hybrid:
Notice how the top of the mod is just a threaded hole and you can screw in any atomizer you want into that hole?
That's the difference.
Funny you mention the authentic simpl mod.. that is the product I was going to use as an example. The only difference between the top two, is the screw size the atomizer screws into. One screws into a 7mmx.5 thread, the other is propably a 20x.5 thread... that's it. There are three pieces on both.. a solid metal tube, an atomizer, and a button assembly. It just so happens that there's more atomziers that use the 7mmx.5 thread.. we happen to call it a 510. They have the exact same number of connection points, and the exact same number of threads to atomizer. I'd even guess to say if you put something like a derringer on it, you have fewer parts overall. In the SImple mod, the atomizer is the top cap.. since it's a solid piece of metal from the 510 all the way down to the button threads... so, the atomizer plugs the smaller hole.
So, does "not having a 510 sized hole" dictate what a hybrid mod is?
No. A hybrid comes complete with a mated atomizer. There's no "mix and match" with a true hybrid mod. You use the atomizer that was designed for it.
No, the atomizer is NOT the top cap.
Here's the difference in simple terms.
On the Simple, the atomizer is not part of the mod. It's a totally separate device. It has more resistance because it has it's own base that is separate from the top of the mod. It's effectively double the metal, which also doubles the resistance of the metal.
The other difference is that since the atomizer is not part of the mod, the atomizer may actually be dangerous to use with the mod. A REAL Hybrid has an atomizer that is specifically made for the mod. The mod will not work without that specific atomizer. With something like the faux hybrid you can throw any old atomizer on it, even ones that will create a dangerous short circuit.
So, pretty much you said it has to be a matched set with threading approx the size of the battery.
It's more of a curiosity question. I have an Origin/Aqua combo which is a hybrid, and I have a tugboat style "faux hybrid". Believe it or not, the pieces mix and match... I can put the Aqua on the tugboat body, and the tugboat hybrid connector on the origin connector. Same with the king mod if I take the 510 off of that. I can put the aqua on several bases. It seems there are only a handfull of threading variations... there's the 20x.5, and 20x1 for most mod tubes. The hybrid atomizer seems to work with other hybrid bases.. so mix and match is possible, albeit ugly.
The SMPL mod I will still consider a true hybrid base against other's recommendation. The only difference between the origin and the smpl top part, is the size of the hole. They're both solid tubes, one has a 20x.5 thread on the top, the other has a 7x.5 thread at the top. The Smpl just doesn't come with an atomizer. The Tugboat and 4nine I'll consider Faux hybrid direct connect, since it uses an adapter to convert from the tube connection to the standard 510 connection.
Let's add another variable to this confusing hybrid debate, shall we?
And then there are other hybrids which cannot and will never be confused with a "hybrid look" device. Here are 2 examples that are built without the ability to remove the atomizer from the tube. There is no way to unscrew the atomizer/top cap assembly (as shown in other pics) and stick it on another tube, which is still a true hybrid and a safer alternative than a pinless 510 cap since you don't have to worry about dead shorting the battery.
The way some of the true hybrids are constructed can make it confusing.
I think there are few key points to remember:
If you can remove the tank from the TUBE but NOT the top cap, it's a true hybrid.
If you cannot remove the tank at all, as demonstrated in the pic, it's a true hybrid.
If you have a direct to battery top cap with no pin that can take ANY atomizer/tank, which are apparently considered hybrids these days and is the source of confusion, these are the units that you need to exercise much more caution with since it is possible to dead short the battery.
And then there are other hybrids which cannot and will never be confused with a "hybrid look" device. Here are 2 examples that are built without the ability to remove the atomizer from the tube. There is no way to unscrew the atomizer/top cap assembly (as shown in other pics) and stick it on another tube, which is still a true hybrid and a safer alternative than a pinless 510 cap since you don't have to worry about dead shorting the battery.
The way some of the true hybrids are constructed can make it confusing.
I think there are few key points to remember:
If you can remove the tank from the TUBE but NOT the top cap, it's a true hybrid.
If you cannot remove the tank at all, as demonstrated in the pic, it's a true hybrid.
If you have a direct to battery top cap with no pin that can take ANY atomizer/tank, which are apparently considered hybrids these days and is the source of confusion, these are the units that you need to exercise much more caution with since it is possible to dead short the battery.
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