Looking to buy a vaporizer today within a budget, in need of suggestions.

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I am ready to finally order my own vape online. I went in person to my local vape shop and they had a lot of nice vapes but the prices were way too expensive and for that reason, I will order everything I will need for my vape online. So before I ask for any suggestion, I would prefer something that is going to total less than $100 for both a mod and atomizer (even cheaper would be nice) I don't need to include battery or charger in my budget as of now because my brother already has a couple he will give me. I want something that is not ridiculously expensive, within my budget, and that works great, also great reviews won't hurt either. I love the vapes that have the very wide mouth pieces. I'm just worried about ordering something online and I receive a garbage vape which is why I am asking the best site for suggestions. I'm basically asking for suggestions on an ENTIRE vape including all accessories such as wire (what gauge?) A couple days ago I had an Apollo mod by AmeraVape I believe and an El Diablo Mephisto V3 clone atomizer and I liked it but would prefer to have a different one than him. I really do not mind if it is tank or drip. I have only had the chance to try dripping and never have tried a tank, they look neat though. Here are two pictures of the vape my buddy let me borrow for a week and I love the wide tip and the venting it had. Also some vapes have a locking mechanism at the bottom so if you set down it will push the firing button on which I would not prefer a locking mechanism on the button.Here are two pictures of the one my buddy let me borrow and I did like it but would be nice if I can get something better, drip or tank is fine.. 20150313_034125.jpg 20150313_034459.jpg . Before I posted this question, I did a bit of research but the options are limitless lol. Since I am new to vaping and have never used a tank, I'm not sure all the parts I would need for a tank instead of a mechanical mod since I've never used a tank but would love to use one. Here is what I was thinking, all input is greatly appreciated;

Atomizer: Dark Horse RDA Clone $19.99 - VividSmoke.com or Plume Veil v1.5 RDA Clone [White] $19.99 - VividSmoke.com
Mod: Buster Mod Clone [SS] $33.99 - VividSmoke.com or https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10009160/1448300-nemesis-style-mechanical-mod or https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10009322/1795000-stingray-x-style-stainless-steel-copper
Wiring: Kanthal A-1 Wire 24g AWG $1.99 - VividSmoke.com (my buddy uses 22 gauge, no idea what the difference is besides size)
Already have battery, charger, cotton, and all the tools needed for the coils for now. Thanks so much again
 
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Brandon David

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Pick up some 26g wire also. Your battery will last a good bit longer and the ramp up time will be shorter. Be sure you are familiar with ohms law and know what to look for when building so you don't short and vent your battery.

A regulated device would be what I'd go with since most have reverse battery protection and short protection etc..... at least until you get a bit more familiar with the ins and outs of building.
 
Pick up some 26g wire also. Your battery will last a good bit longer and the ramp up time will be shorter. Be sure you are familiar with ohms law and know what to look for when building so you don't short and vent your battery.

A regulated device would be what I'd go with since most have reverse battery protection and short protection etc..... at least until you get a bit more familiar with the ins and outs of building.

Thanks so much for the quick reply, can you suggest any particular mechanical or box mod and atomizer? Or are the ones I posted fine? Also why 26 gauge over 22? Just curious I want to place this order asap!
 
It will be all personal preference, but my go to mods are currently a sigelei 100w+ box, an istick 50w, and a vanilla mech. I carry a lemo drop and a veritas.

I also forgot to mention that you need an ohm meter if you are going mech.

Never even knew of an ohm meter for a mechanical mod, my buddy bought one from a local vape shop and I have never seen him use one, maybe they set it up for him when he bough it?
 

Brandon David

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It's not for the mech, it's to check the resistance of your build before you put it on the mod. You need to know the resistance to know if the build is safe to use. If it isn't, you could vent the battery which in some instances, have been known to go boom or catch on fire.
 

mightymen

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  • Nov 22, 2012
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    No you can't
    As had been said but worth repeating it's a personal preference.

    I've collected a few mods and my suggestion for a startup kit - is get a regulated mod that goes up to 30 watts with a 510 connector, I love my IPV mini - 5 to 30 watts has PWM and DC-DC, with PWM you set it and leave it alone if you want DC it's there also. I have a special need sometimes to use the 5 to 5.5 watt setting it's good to have. I picked it up for $39.95 also my goto tanks are three fogger 5's and a mini fogger - all top fill tanks. fogger 5 around $25.00 or less
     

    Topwater Elvis

    Vaping Master
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    Dec 26, 2012
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    IMO, starting off with a mechanical & rba set up is going to have a steep learning curve, especially a mech with a hybrid top cap.
    When using a mech / rba set up the only safety feature is the one between the users ears, understanding battery safety, ohms law and the warning signs of unsafe conditions before using is always a good idea.
    There are a couple types of RBA's, rebuildable drip & rebuildable tank, then there is the replaceable head style like the Atlantis, subtank, melo etc...

    Are these borrowed batteries of good quality with a sufficient CDR to safely power your intended resistances ranges?
    If they're aged or off brand or unknown you'll need to add batteries to your shopping list along with a way to accurately measure resistance and check battery voltage to prevent over discharging your batteries. A dvom comes in handy.

    I'd suggest a regulated APV with built in safety features & display screen that shows power level, battery charge status and an Ω reader such as an istick 50 or one of the ipv variants with a replaceable head system delivery device.
    Unless you just like the look & enjoy the fiddle factor of a mech / rba setup the high power APV's are IMO the way to go, safety, stable output, display showing info, adjustable power and convenience in one package.
     
    IMO, starting off with a mechanical & rba set up is going to have a steep learning curve, especially a mech with a hybrid top cap.
    When using a mech / rba set up the only safety feature is the one between the users ears, understanding battery safety, ohms law and the warning signs of unsafe conditions before using is always a good idea.
    There are a couple types of RBA's, rebuildable drip & rebuildable tank, then there is the replaceable head style like the Atlantis, subtank, melo etc...

    Are these borrowed batteries of good quality with a sufficient CDR to safely power your intended resistances ranges?
    If they're aged or off brand or unknown you'll need to add batteries to your shopping list along with a way to accurately measure resistance and check battery voltage to prevent over discharging your batteries. A dvom comes in handy.

    I'd suggest a regulated APV with built in safety features & display screen that shows power level, battery charge status and an Ω reader such as an istick 50 or one of the ipv variants with a replaceable head system delivery device.
    Unless you just like the look & enjoy the fiddle factor of a mech / rba setup the high power APV's are IMO the way to go, safety, stable output, display showing info, adjustable power and convenience in one package.

    Yes the batteries were Efest 18650 35 Amp 2500 MAh Flat-Top
     

    The Dog Guy

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    Jan 4, 2015
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    IMO, starting off with a mechanical & rba set up is going to have a steep learning curve, especially a mech with a hybrid top cap.
    When using a mech / rba set up the only safety feature is the one between the users ears, understanding battery safety, ohms law and the warning signs of unsafe conditions before using is always a good idea.
    There are a couple types of RBA's, rebuildable drip & rebuildable tank, then there is the replaceable head style like the Atlantis, subtank, melo etc...

    Are these borrowed batteries of good quality with a sufficient CDR to safely power your intended resistances ranges?
    If they're aged or off brand or unknown you'll need to add batteries to your shopping list along with a way to accurately measure resistance and check battery voltage to prevent over discharging your batteries. A dvom comes in handy.

    I'd suggest a regulated APV with built in safety features & display screen that shows power level, battery charge status and an Ω reader such as an istick 50 or one of the ipv variants with a replaceable head system delivery device.
    Unless you just like the look & enjoy the fiddle factor of a mech / rba setup the high power APV's are IMO the way to go, safety, stable output, display showing info, adjustable power and convenience in one package.

    I'd love to "super-like" this
     

    Topwater Elvis

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Dec 26, 2012
    7,116
    16,502
    Texas
    The efest 35a is a re wrapped & erroneously labeled LGHe2 which is a 20a CDR battery not 35a.
    Using it with an Ω range that is beyond the 20a cdr maximum capability will result in dangerous situations.

    Not trying to sound rude or harsh, but, if you don't know how to pick the correct batteries & basic battery safety mechanical's are not a good place to start off or play with.
     
    The efest 35a is a re wrapped & erroneously labeled LGHe2 which is a 20a CDR battery not 35a.
    Using it with an Ω range that is beyond the 20a cdr maximum capability will result in dangerous situations.

    Not trying to sound rude or harsh, but, if you don't know how to pick the correct batteries & basic battery safety mechanical's are not a good place to start off or play with.

    No offense taken, I just want a couple suggestions of specific mods and atomizers from a couple people from these forums.
     

    Spanky Payne

    Senior Member
    Mar 7, 2015
    74
    23
    Jasper Missouri
    Start simple and work your way up one of the common misconceptions when first vaping is "this is the set up I'll always be happy with" which is completetly untrue when it comes to smaller tanks and ego's, but mech's and rebuilding take alot of learning to be safe when using them, my suggestion is if you want to skip the crap ego stage, and want something a little bit like dripping buy a sub ohm tank such as the aspire atlantis or kanger subtank mini, plus the kanger subtank mini comes with an rba (rebuildable deck) which is a good way to get into building, secondly if you skip the internal battery stage or you buy a good enough internal thats apropriate for sub ohming, you MUST RESEARCH battery safety while sub ohming. Long story short I recomend buying a subtank or atlantis with an aspire cf sub ohm battery, it is like a ego but with the power of a mech mod, or if you want to do a little reseach buy external batteries and a good charger, if you choose to do external, don't be cheap, you need a good set up. Almost forgot the subtank and atlantis are about 30 to 40 dollars and I do believe the cf sub ohm is like $40.
     

    shuggibear

    Full Member
    Mar 8, 2015
    40
    39
    pa, us
    I don't have the Kanger subtank mini so I can't speak of it, even though it sounds great. I love my RSST because rebuilding isn't too bad with it. The spring lock makes the connections feel solid and for the price I can't complain either, just be careful of what juice goes inside if you opt for the plastic one. As other people have said, if you wanna rebuild, you should use an ohm meter. Even if your mod won't fire it because it's regulated, it's a great habit to do if you eventually decide you want a mech..... And if you do get a mech, it's not really an option, get a meter. Lastly don't skimp on anything that has to do with batteries. Get the plastic cases, get the awesome charger, and do research on the particular type of battery you want to use. Between here and youtube, you can pretty much find out almost everything you need to know about ohm's law, battery specs, and battery safety.
     
    Start simple and work your way up one of the common misconceptions when first vaping is "this is the set up I'll always be happy with" which is completetly untrue when it comes to smaller tanks and ego's, but mech's and rebuilding take alot of learning to be safe when using them, my suggestion is if you want to skip the crap ego stage, and want something a little bit like dripping buy a sub ohm tank such as the aspire atlantis or kanger subtank mini, plus the kanger subtank mini comes with an rba (rebuildable deck) which is a good way to get into building, secondly if you skip the internal battery stage or you buy a good enough internal thats apropriate for sub ohming, you MUST RESEARCH battery safety while sub ohming. Long story short I recomend buying a subtank or atlantis with an aspire cf sub ohm battery, it is like a ego but with the power of a mech mod, or if you want to do a little reseach buy external batteries and a good charger, if you choose to do external, don't be cheap, you need a good set up. Almost forgot the subtank and atlantis are about 30 to 40 dollars and I do believe the cf sub ohm is like $40.

    Ok I will definitely look in to that! Hoping for some more suggestions kind of more like the first pics I posted but will check out this stuff
     
    It will be all personal preference, but my go to mods are currently a sigelei 100w+ box, an istick 50w, and a vanilla mech. I carry a lemo drop and a veritas.

    I also forgot to mention that you need an ohm meter if you are going mech.

    Infounds the Veritas clone and the Vanilla mod clone together for less than $50 do you like yours a lot?
     
    As had been said but worth repeating it's a personal preference.

    I've collected a few mods and my suggestion for a startup kit - is get a regulated mod that goes up to 30 watts with a 510 connector, I love my IPV mini - 5 to 30 watts has PWM and DC-DC, with PWM you set it and leave it alone if you want DC it's there also. I have a special need sometimes to use the 5 to 5.5 watt setting it's good to have. I picked it up for $39.95 also my goto tanks are three fogger 5's and a mini fogger - all top fill tanks. fogger 5 around $25.00 or less

    Awesome man thank you for the specific suggestions.
     
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