Looking to Upgrade

[Vapoor eyes er]

thanks, i like the vision spinner, seems easy for a beginner. thanks for all of the help from all of you

Here's a good price on a Spinner Kit. Don't buy the chrome as the voltage markings wear off quite quick- also scratches easily and is a fingerprint magnet.
As for clearos the iClear are highly rated as are the ProTanks- if buying the ProTank get the "Mini" as it looks better on the Spinner. ProTanks are glass and "acidic" juices won't degrade them. Acidic juice can damage plastic clearos.
http://www.myvaporstore.com/Vision_Spinner_Joye_Ego_C_Twist_Combo_p/vvs-c.htm

 

[NiNi]

Well, it's all been said above!
Welcome to ECF!

 

[pufZeppelin]

thanks, i like the vision spinner, seems easy for a beginner. thanks for all of the help from all of you

here is a good price on this one color for some reason... ?

Vision Spinner - 1300mah - White

 

[90quattrocoupe]

I started out with a eGo c-twist... moved to a provari, bought an eVic too... then bought a Vamo... was happy, really happy - then my eyes were opened with my buddies K100 he gave me for free (mechanical mod)

The only time I will ever go back to an ego, provari, or evic would be maybe if im traveling, and can't rebuild coils.

I completly stopped smoking one I got my first mechanical mod w/ rebuildable atomizer... I was able to lower my nic level to 6mg also.

I recommend a K100 mod w/ IGO-W RDA... 3mm Silica and 28g kanthal... after you get hooked then you can shell out for the $200.00 mod plus atty

The device that made me fall in love with vaping and stop smoking:

Yea, don't do this for a while. Take your time, try different toppers before you start doing clouds of vaper. It is a pain in the a** to drive, walk around the mall, go the fair, with having to carry spare batteries and juice bottle around with you.

The sites I am showing you are being given for illustration only.

I have the Davide Glassomizer, Mini David, a Protank 2, mini Protank 2, Dbox Puritank. These are all basically the same thing with small differences. The Dbox Puritank is larger than the Protank 2. I like the mini Davide and the Puritank the best. But if you use these only use Kanger Protank replacement heads. The heads that come with the David and Puritank, are c**p. Save the heads when they start being hard to draw or burnt. You may get into rebuilding them later and save a few bucks. Kanger Tech heads come in black boxes and say Kanger on them.

Mini Davide Glassomizer
Davide Glassomizer
Kanger Protank 2 Pro Tank Glassomizer
Electronic Cigarette | E Cigarette | myvaporstore
http://www.vaporbeast.com/DBox-Carto-PuriTank-Polished-p/70-0188-004.htm


I would get a cartomizer tank. Either a Phiniac or IBT tank. I would only get XL cartos, as the tank is bigger and you can carry more juice without having to refill as often. I like Boge carto, but everyone has an opinion. These are the best two tanks around. IMHO.

The Phiniac Tank - Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks

IBTanked - Get Tanked With Us!


Greg W.

 

[ohmyidontthinkthisworks]

It's all price point stuff. I started with a G6 then ego twist then vamo. In lower price ranges since you trying to find your way. I would say if you can find a Innokin mvp v1 for a easy VV mod or a Vamo v2/v3 for VW.. I just got an aspire bdc tank this week and it is prolly one of the best easy to use tanks I have bought with killer vapor. I love carto tanks they are easy no fuss once primed. I use agr tank but some people have issues with them. I got a fogger v2, which is currently my favorite ato, though it's love hate at times. Trail and error eventually you will find your perfect set up.

 

[90quattrocoupe]

eventually you will find your perfect set up.

I don't think this true. We keep stumbling along blindly, trying different stuff, thinking that the next set up will be the one. Personally, I think this whole vaping thing is the blind leading the blind.

Greg W.

 

[ph0kused]

K100 Mechanical Body Unit - Gold - with Safey Fuse

Great vendor with great prices and service.

Keep in mind that this is a mechanical mod. There is no means of regulating voltage or measuring the resistance of your atomizer with that system. That's not saying that it isn't great (I'm sure it is) but mechanicals and rebuilding atomizers can have something of a steep learning curve.

That's a big misconception...

Mechanical mods don't have a learning curve. If you can put a battery inside the device, you're set.

+ It's the rebuildable atomizer that has a bit of a learning curve. Here's where I learned how to rebuild coils for my first (and in my opinion best beginner's RDA) the IGO-W ($14.99)
- Build: Dual Coils & What You Need to Know - YouTube
*MCVapes has a great channel, watch his videos on batteries, resistance, and airflow. Every vaper should watch that imo.
another tutorial....
- IGO-W Dual Coil Dripper - YouTube

IGO-W Atomizer:
IGO-W Rebuildable Atomizer

The IGO-W is basically the Chinese knock-off of these 2 atomizers... Don't be fooled though, the IGO-W is extremely well built, I love mine!
(USA-Made) Patriot RDA: Patriot RBA
(Filipino-Made) Nimbus RDA: Nimbus Drip Atomizer

have fun, and feel free to PM me questions..moving to mech + dripping atties was the best thing ive done... my provari & evic weren't cutting it with their resistance limitations. Now with 2 coils firing around .5ohms, i was able to completely stop smoking and drop my nicotine level to 6mg... I'm getting move vapor now much faster, and i dont have to keep sucking on my device all damn day, like I was with my lil provari + Kangar/vivi tank...

Hope this helps your journey into staying smoke free!

 

[ph0kused]

Yea, don't do this for a while. Take your time, try different toppers before you start doing clouds of vaper. It is a pain in the a** to drive, walk around the mall, go the fair, with having to carry spare batteries and juice bottle around with you.

The sites I am showing you are being given for illustration only.

I have the Davide Glassomizer, Mini David, a Protank 2, mini Protank 2, Dbox Puritank. These are all basically the same thing with small differences. The Dbox Puritank is larger than the Protank 2. I like the mini Davide and the Puritank the best. But if you use these only use Kanger Protank replacement heads. The heads that come with the David and Puritank, are c**p. Save the heads when they start being hard to draw or burnt. You may get into rebuilding them later and save a few bucks. Kanger Tech heads come in black boxes and say Kanger on them.

Mini Davide Glassomizer
Davide Glassomizer
Kanger Protank 2 Pro Tank Glassomizer
Electronic Cigarette | E Cigarette | myvaporstore
http://www.vaporbeast.com/DBox-Carto-PuriTank-Polished-p/70-0188-004.htm


I would get a cartomizer tank. Either a Phiniac or IBT tank. I would only get XL cartos, as the tank is bigger and you can carry more juice without having to refill as often. I like Boge carto, but everyone has an opinion. These are the best two tanks around. IMHO.

The Phiniac Tank - Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks

IBTanked - Get Tanked With Us!


Greg W.

This guy couldnt be more wrong lol...

We need to change this stigma with the whole mech vaping subculture... I dont carry any extra batteries with me lol...i dont understand how driving with a mechanical mod and vaping it is any harder than driving with a VV device and vaping it? For both devices I use my hand to hold it and lungs to inhale off it lol

As far as re-dripping... a lot of people that are into the VV devices like Greg here, truly believe that you have to be re-dripping every 5 seconds... this is far from the truth...

and if walking around with a bottle for soaking your coils really bothers you... take a look into the Kayfun 3.1 or RSST by smoketech, get a the benefit of dual rebuildable coils, and the convenience of a tank system.

The one thing that a lot of people misunderstand with the whole mech vs VV device debate is that the ONLY reason why people end up choosing mechanical/rebuildable over a starter device like a Provari, is the vapor production... unfortunately it's one of those things that you have to try first, and then it will click for you. We can talk about it all day, but for example, you may try to take a pull off greg's RDA w/ his custom coils - he may suck at building coils, and it may permanently turn you off from the whole RDA thing.

I'll just say that mostly all of us vapers who use RDA/RBA/RTA systems started off with devices like Greg's... we all had something like an eGo at one point. I used to be like Greg, I had my VV Device, and I was activly looking for new tank systems with cool glass and good vapor production all the time. But bottom line is... mostly all "high-end" tanks for VV devices, produce around the same vapor, it's splitting hairs compared to some of the RDA/RBA/RTA systems out there...

I guess my final point was that, I was using my Provari every 5 minutes at work it seemed like, I was vaping 18mg nicotine... it was constant. I spent well over $600.00 in tank systems just for my provari... they all preform right around the same in my humble opinion.

When my eyes were opened into rebuildable atomizers, a guy who runs a vape store let me take a dragg of his device, and I was blwon away. Then I was even more blown away when he told me it was only a 6mg nic. strength... Now I'm able to spend 5 minutes on my mod, and put it away, it's not attached to me like a baby with it's pacifier like my Provari/eVic

 

[cope]

welcome
start with something you like and works good i like the kanger pro tank works well for me cheap to replace the coils
i get em for 6 bucks for 5.
i got a few vv mods 1 is a provari...why well why not its bullet proof..well almost but it does have a warranty option
but i have other cheaper just as good battery mods too that i use and perform just as well
have fun and enjoy vaping insted of smoking good choice BTW

 

[Sknawt]

i dont understand how driving with a mechanical mod and vaping it is any harder than driving with a VV device and vaping it? For both devices I use my hand to hold it and lungs to inhale off it lol

When I think mechanical mods, I think sub-ohm vaping, which could be harder since you're blowing huge clouds of vision-impairing vapor inside of the car cabin. I was actually joking around about that with some of my friends who vape and we all agreed that someone could potentially crash.

If you're going to go with an RDA/RBA on a mechanical mod, make sure you read and fully digest everything from these links:

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?

Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

Advice & Tips for New RBA Users


Why is there so much stigma around sub-ohm vaping and why is it dangerous?:

Basically, the voltage of the battery matched with the resistance of the rebuildable generates way too many amps. Most batteries have an amp capacity of about 10-12amps. Doing the math, a 4.2v battery on a .3ohm rebuildable generates 14 amps. Most batteries arent intended for that many amps.

Look up the amp capacity of your specific battery and the principles of Ohms Law to learn more for yourself

Why exactly would the 1600 mah AW be better than the 2000 mah though? I am kind of confused by that

The 2000mah is only rated for a 10a output.

IMR18650-1600 Specifications :

Nominal Voltage : 3.7V
Capacity : 1600mAH
Lowest Discharge Voltage : 2.50V
Standard Charge : CC/CV ( max. charging rate 4.5A )
Cycle Life : > 500 cycles
Max. continuous discharge rate : 15C
Operating Discharge Temperature : -10 - 60 Degree Celsius

At 15C continuous discharge on a 1600 mAh battery, to calculate the amp limit, you take the C rating (15) and multiply it by 1.6, resulting in 24A limit. The reason you multiply by 1.6 is because 1 amp = 1000 mAh (milliamp). You could multiply 15 by 1600, but you'll have the limit in milliamps which needs to be converted to amps.

Ohm's Law Calculator

I don't want to scare you and make you think that no matter what you do, it's dangerous. As long as you're informed and understand how to 'baby' your battery, you'll be safe.

 

[dusty123]

you can check ou t Vaporin | Electronic Cigarettes | Vaporizer | Ecig | E-Cigarette | E Cigs | Oil Pens they have different types of vaporizers, liquid etc you can also use the coupon code couponism20 to get 20% off good luck

 

[niczgreat]

Bottom Feeding Rules, you get the great taste of dripping without the hassle

If under $200.00 is your goal.

Buy a
Bogger Box Standard Bottom Feeder
than start out with atomizers from
empire Mods

Other alternative is the
Vapeage Vmod

Also many like the Vapeage Atomizers.

Later you can move to
an RBA liked the Reomizer V2

I purposefully don't mention the Reo Grand.

 

[ph0kused]

I can rebuild my coils in under 10 minutes for both of them, you don't have to do sub 1.0 ohm...

Theoretically, it's not that much different from re-wrapping coils for the kangar tanks, so I just look at it like, if you're going to be putting new coils on your device, give an RDA a shot sometime in your lifetime, who knows - you may end up liking the vape.

On a side note - I still use my provari too... i use it when im traveling in airports... I dont want to get hasseled by the TSA, so i use a provari with a lil clearo-tank.

But in my opinion, the vape from a VV device compared to an RDA running duals isnt even close. Even if you're not cloud chasing, i just feel you definitely get more bang for your buck.

Just get informed, read up, watch some videos...

For some reason there's this group of vapers on here that uses VV or eGo devices w/ a standard tank system, but are always first to chime in on RDA's even though most of them don't actually own one, and always hit you with the "be careful your device will explode" - that's good advice, but lets not act like 25% of mechanical mods turn into pipe bombs, it's a pretty rare occurrence... we're all adults here (hopefully)... It's like saying "dont drive on freeways because you may flip your car and get burned to death, stay on surface streets, people drive slower". Do some research, go into your local Brick and mortar vape shop, ask them to build a coil for you so you can see it in action. If you can't retain that type of information than RDA's def. are not for you.

Buy the correct battery, wrap some 28g kanthal around some silica wick 3 full rotations, attach the positive end/negative leads to your device, trim the extra silica so you can get your cap on and vape!

let's not make this sound any more complicated than it really is...

 

[Smokke]

start out with a Vamo V2 or V4 (sometimes called V5). Get some good batteries and a good charger. A good charger that has the "smart" feature will stop charging the batteries when they are full. I use LUC Efest chargers because they show voltage and have they are smart chargers. Chargers that keep charging after the battery is full can pose as a fire hazard and also shorten the life of the battery.