But at that point, how did the vape from the pod taste? I've had more than one occasion when a coil and wick looked disgusting but still tasted ok.
- Status
But at that point, how did the vape from the pod taste? I've had more than one occasion when a coil and wick looked disgusting but still tasted ok.
I almost wish I had one of those 2nd accounts that ECF frowns upon.....but here goes.
Flavor on any atomizer is pretty much determined by air flow.
The air need to hit the coil at the right area and with the correct amount of force.
Here I have cut the end from a pod to expose the air path, note the air outlet size.
You decide what's up here.
Flavor on any atomizer is pretty much determined by air flow.
The air need to hit the coil at the right area and with the correct amount of force.
Here I have cut the end from a pod to expose the air path, note the air outlet size.
You decide what's up here.
I thought does this need that much air the area around the coil to keep the surrounding area from melting?
So I take a wet 0.5 pod and fire it with no air and fire it for the 7 seconds max puff time that it is set to on mine. I did this 4 times in a row, it didn't seem to damage it but I really need to cut it open for a better look.
So I take a wet 0.5 pod and fire it with no air and fire it for the 7 seconds max puff time that it is set to on mine. I did this 4 times in a row, it didn't seem to damage it but I really need to cut it open for a better look.
Brandon, in his thread on Evolv forum, explain the lockup to be caused by the circuitry remaining in a state of waiting for a signal from a microphonic draw sensor, which is disabled on their board.
The reset shown above, is a permanent fix, or the risk that a combination of operational parameters may bring the device again waiting for input for a draw sensor that doesn't exist?
For me here in EU, it is 100% certain to get a device made before October if I buy an Orion. What are my options for buying a bug-free Orion now?
The reset shown above, is a permanent fix, or the risk that a combination of operational parameters may bring the device again waiting for input for a draw sensor that doesn't exist?
For me here in EU, it is 100% certain to get a device made before October if I buy an Orion. What are my options for buying a bug-free Orion now?
I maybe wrong RayofLight62, but I thought it was only the first ones with the possibility of the problem popping up. What Jaybo did in this video looks like to me that he is fooling the DNA Go board that the draw sensor gets activated, which the Orion doesn't use.
I also heard a rumor that this problem seems to occur if the battery gets too weak to turn on. I have 4 Orions and I got them all before September 17th. So I guess they are all early versions. I've never ran them down low enough to not turn on. Nor have I experienced this bricked problem whatsoever. I am not sure, but I believe I heard it said to have the Orion on before plugging in before starting charging and you will never see this problem. But don't quote me.
I also heard a rumor that this problem seems to occur if the battery gets too weak to turn on. I have 4 Orions and I got them all before September 17th. So I guess they are all early versions. I've never ran them down low enough to not turn on. Nor have I experienced this bricked problem whatsoever. I am not sure, but I believe I heard it said to have the Orion on before plugging in before starting charging and you will never see this problem. But don't quote me.
I'd love to try the Orion but after having the breeze and being able to taste the plastic from the pods in my juice I just don't use the breeze much anymore. would be nice if they made a pod where the plastic doesn't leak into the juice
Wow really Rockford? Lots of juice is sold in plastic bottles. Some squonkers use plastic bottles. I dunno, I think some plastic leeches into the juice and some does not. Back in the ego days I remember tasting plastic (and hated it). But I can't remember other plastic taste in other things including the Orion. But maybe you are more sensitive than me.
I maybe wrong RayofLight62, but I thought it was only the first ones with the possibility of the problem popping up. What Jaybo did in this video looks like to me that he is fooling the DNA Go board that the draw sensor gets activated, which the Orion doesn't use.
I also heard a rumor that this problem seems to occur if the battery gets too weak to turn on. I have 4 Orions and I got them all before September 17th. So I guess they are all early versions. I've never ran them down low enough to not turn on. Nor have I experienced this bricked problem whatsoever. I am not sure, but I believe I heard it said to have the Orion on before plugging in before starting charging and you will never see this problem. But don't quote me.
I just initiated a return of my 2nd Orion with this issue. It has been so incredibly frustrating. I have a sneaking suspicion it is the fact that I'm charging it from a powered USB port? Perhaps too much power putting it into safe mode? If that's the case then these guys will be absolutely flooded with returns. Most papers do not pay attention to which cord they use and what power source. I personally have a suorin air and drop, a small innokin cool fire I use for rebuildable MTL's etc and just charge them wherever whenever. It's really disappointing because the Orion, in so many ways, is head and shoulders above the rest of the pods. I am also not the tinkering type who has any confidence in my ability to reset this thing. I am relieved however to see that others are having the issue...
I had my first pod leak. Bottom of the pod is all wet and bottom of the Orion is all wet. I can't see how it got from the pod to the bottom of the Orion. Either outside and it dried, or through the inside of the Orion. The Orion seems to be still working fine, go figure.
I know what juice it was in that pod. It was Yeti Vape RY4 Double. Maybe that juice is bad for plastic pods, I dunno. Oddly enough that bottle of juice is marked as 24% nic. That can't be right, my ears would be ringing if it was that high. I ordered 24mg nic. I guess they forgot to print the decimal point.
I know what juice it was in that pod. It was Yeti Vape RY4 Double. Maybe that juice is bad for plastic pods, I dunno. Oddly enough that bottle of juice is marked as 24% nic. That can't be right, my ears would be ringing if it was that high. I ordered 24mg nic. I guess they forgot to print the decimal point.
That was very interesting. But, you clearly know more than I about such things.I almost wish I had one of those 2nd accounts that ECF frowns upon.....but here goes.
Flavor on any atomizer is pretty much determined by air flow.
The air need to hit the coil at the right area and with the correct amount of force.
Here I have cut the end from a pod to expose the air path, note the air outlet size.
You decide what's up here.
So, help me understand what you're pointing out.
I haven't had anything I would describe as a leak. I've regularly had moisture on the bottom of my pods. But, I'm not at all sure I understand the physics of the Orion. I've had leakage on other attys from the 510 pin, which I understood. Not sure where the juice could be coming from in the Orion. The post above from @dwcraig1 should have helped me but didn't.I had my first pod leak. Bottom of the pod is all wet and bottom of the Orion is all wet. I can't see how it got from the pod to the bottom of the Orion. Either outside and it dried, or through the inside of the Orion. The Orion seems to be still working fine, go figure.
I know what juice it was in that pod. It was Yeti Vape RY4 Double. Maybe that juice is bad for plastic pods, I dunno. Oddly enough that bottle of juice is marked as 24% nic. That can't be right, my ears would be ringing if it was that high. I ordered 24mg nic. I guess they forgot to print the decimal point.
The bottom section is glued into the pod, it is possible for it to leak there or where the electrical contacts are.
I thought we learned that the pod is actually ultrasonic welded in Jaybo's video when he visited Lost Vape in China?
I number my pods and log a history on them. And the one that leaked on me didn't leak on the contact side, but on the other side. Plus it worked for over 2 months without a problem. So I am wondering if some juices may weaken the seam and may start leaking in time.
- Status
Similar threads
