Loving my new mini tank!

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Suncruiser

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Got my new tank today and I love it :) Never had a tank before and was a bit worried after reading about SO many issues with them (not M&P's just tanks in general) but this thing is working wonderfully - no leaking and super easy to fill. I saw the video on filling (very helpful for a newbie like me) but nothing on how to change the carto. Anybody have any advice on how you change the cartos? TIA :vapor:
 

thehangdude

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pwyll

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Umm... I have no video, but it should be fairly easier to describe. The instructions assume that you already have the old carto out and the new carto punched (or pre-punched):

1. Put a grommet on the carto, bottom of the grommet flush/even with the bottom of the sleeve.
2. Slide the acrylic tube over the grommet so that the bottom part of the grommet (under the o-ring if you use them, or under the gap if you don't) is inside the tube.
3. Slide the second grommet around the top and down the carto sleeve until it contacts the tube all the way around. Gently push the grommet inside the tube a little at a time, turning the whole assembly as you do so to keep it even all the way around. If it is always upright, you should be fine just sliding the grommet in; if you ever lay it on its side or drop it, you may want to go ahead and slide the top grommet down past the gap/o-ring as well.

:)
 

P0P

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Wuzz up folks!! I will see if i can get a video from beginning to end on the Tank procedure to try to help. I think that would be best with that said and you folks try it. I have clearly noticed after i vape about half a tank and remove the screw for just a moment the tank depressurizes and juice flows in to the carto easier once again once you get to the point the screw is almost all the way out go real slow and you can feel what takes place. Its very simple the more juice that is used in a closed system it has no choice but to build a small amount of pressure for lack of a better example it is like holding your finger on a straw and letting go. I have read more on dry hits with tanks but not Mom and Pops give this a try its another advantage using this design.This is my personal observation and simply wanted to share it with folks
 

VIPOD

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Tried one sub-tank on my first order, and sold on the ease of use compared to the rest of them, and I've tried most.

My next order of juice should make it's way up here this week, along with 3 other sub-tanks (2reg,1mini).

BTW...I plan on trying my 801 Fusion Cart within the mini, I think the results could be tremendous.;)
 

pwyll

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Tried one sub-tank on my first order, and sold on the ease of use compared to the rest of them, and I've tried most.

My next order of juice should make it's way up here this week, along with 3 other sub-tanks (2reg,1mini).


BTW...I plan on trying my 801 Fusion Cart within the mini, I think the results could be tremendous.;)

Been planning the same thing myself--but I've only got one 801-capable mod so I've been waiting for the Fusion on it to die. May have to just take it off and punch it...
 

VIPOD

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Been planning the same thing myself--but I've only got one 801-capable mod so I've been waiting for the Fusion on it to die. May have to just take it off and punch it...

LOL...I think we have all the same issues, I got a Kanger on my REO at 3.7v....the carto will not die, nor does it have a burnt taste...closing in on 6 weeks.
 

pwyll

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LOL...I think we have all the same issues, I got a Kanger on my REO at 3.7v....the carto will not die, nor does it have a burnt taste...closing in on 6 weeks.

To be fair, I do rotate through PV's, often using three or four in the same day. I'll just have to pop a 510-801 adapter on something and put up with the extra quarter-inch...
 

VIPOD

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the Kanger carto's come in 1 size, and will fit the mini sub-tank perfectly, while with a 510-510 extender, will fit into the reg. sub-tank.

Essentially, they are the same size as the M&P boge carto's. However, the flavor advantage of the Kanger is in it's unique horizontal coil, that actually helps in the longevity of the carto. That being said, I find one hole is needed when in a tank, as close to the bottom without covering it.

The Kanger's come in two resistances, 1.9-2.0Ω (great for standard 3.7v), and 2.7-3.1Ω (preferred for 5v and VV mods). I normally set my VV at a range of 4.2 to 4.8V, depending on the juice viscosity.
 

FriedLiverAtack

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Seems like you are making a real simple task very complicated.

If you have a tank with juice in it and have to change cartos just pull the carto down a little and stick the other one in the grommet going the opposite direction. When the top of the new one gets in far enough flip it over and pull the old one out.

Alternatively you can put your finger of the open end flip it upside down, pull the old one out, stick the new one in and flip it back over. You get a couple drips of juice on your finger but no big deal.

Either of these methods takes under 10 seconds.
 

FriedLiverAtack

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I have not used these specific tanks, but since it doesn't require disassembly of the tank, and the carto passes through the grommets just like any end caps, I don't see why it wouldn't. Unless the grommets aren't securely in the place, but I don't know why anyone would design a tank like that. But since I haven't used these specific tanks, I cannot say anything for certain. I does work with the 5 or 6 different designs I've used.
 

pwyll

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Caps are hard/inflexible. The vinyl grommets are flexible. They will seal on cartos no matter how out-of-round, which is an advantage over the hard caps. They are also very cheap, which is an advantage over hard caps. While they provide a liquid-tight seal, they also tend to grip the carto more than the acrylic tank during disassembly--which means you cannot simply slide them through as you could with a hard cap. Think of the difference between plate-mail armour and leather clothing. Both offer protection and both have their advantages and disadvantage, but they require different approaches to care and usage.

As to why someone would design a tank like that, Vermonster13 came up with the original design as a $1 DIY alternative to the hand-tooled tanks that started at $30 at the time. The basic style on which Mom and Pop's tank is based is the primary reason tanks are becoming more affordable--when people started making and selling the grommet tanks for $15, paying $40 for a delrin-capped tank became a lot less attractive to a lot of people. The delrin- and metal-capped tanks have their advantages (one of them is being able to change the carto using the method you described), but a lot of people see being able to pay 1/3 to 1/2 the price for the same function as the bigger advantage...
 
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