low ohm reading

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errolng

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hey everyone

just got my provari a few hours ago.
i noticed this happening every time my AW IMR 18350 battery drops to around 3.7V.

My provari mini will just not fire and when i check the resistance, it would have dropped from 1.7-1.8 ohms, all the way to 1-1.1 ohms.
it does not happen on a fully charged battery.

i've tried on 2 different kanger protank 2s, and a vivi nova.
i've also tested the batteries and clearomizers on my evic and my vamo and have no issues.

started using the provari mini less than 10 hours ago and i've had to change my batteries 4 times (swapping between 2) so far and i have only gone thru about 3ml of e liquid.
btw i have been vaping at around 3.8-4 v.

help!!
 

EddardinWinter

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hey everyone

just got my provari a few hours ago.
i noticed this happening every time my AW IMR 18350 battery drops to around 3.7V.

My provari mini will just not fire and when i check the resistance, it would have dropped from 1.7-1.8 ohms, all the way to 1-1.1 ohms.
it does not happen on a fully charged battery.

i've tried on 2 different kanger protank 2s, and a vivi nova.
i've also tested the batteries and clearomizers on my evic and my vamo and have no issues.

started using the provari mini less than 10 hours ago and i've had to change my batteries 4 times (swapping between 2) so far and i have only gone thru about 3ml of e liquid.
btw i have been vaping at around 3.8-4 v.

help!!

Is it giving you an error message? E-1, E-2, E-4. Something like that?
 

The Ocelot

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hey everyone

just got my provari a few hours ago.
i noticed this happening every time my AW IMR 18350 battery drops to around 3.7V.

My provari mini will just not fire and when i check the resistance, it would have dropped from 1.7-1.8 ohms, all the way to 1-1.1 ohms.
it does not happen on a fully charged battery.

i've tried on 2 different kanger protank 2s, and a vivi nova.
i've also tested the batteries and clearomizers on my evic and my vamo and have no issues.

started using the provari mini less than 10 hours ago and i've had to change my batteries 4 times (swapping between 2) so far and i have only gone thru about 3ml of e liquid.
btw i have been vaping at around 3.8-4 v.

help!!

Okay, I'm a bit confused. Am I reading the correctly?

1) The battery isn't fully charged, you're getting a lo ohms* reading and it won't fire?
2) When the above is happening you have a LR device on it? The resistance is dropping from 1.7-1.8Ω down to ≈ 1.1Ω? What does the resistance read when tested on the eVic/Vamo (I don't mean will they fire, I mean what are the numbers?)
3) The above issues don't happen with a fully charged battery?

Were the 18350s fully charged when you started using them? Are you chain vaping?

ETA: Is it throwing an "E" code or the actual low code? This may sound simplistic, but have you tried wiping the contact pin with a q-tip? I've had a tiny drip of liquid from a Protank get down in there and make the connection go wonky. My Sigelei throws a 9.9 code when the same thing happens.
 
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errolng

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No error message at all.

Yes after i take it off the charger, it seems to work fine.
For example, it vaped fine last night. when i woke up this morning, battery had 3.9V but it wouldn't fire. checked the resistance and it had dropped to 1 ohm.
i tested the resistance on the vamo and it reads 1.7.
swapped for my other aw imr 18350 and it works fine.

yes the 18350s were full charged and can't be because of chain vaping as in this instance, it happened over night.
tried your suggestion of cleaning the contact pin but still has the same problem.
 

bosun

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The coil resistance shouldn't change like that. Correct?
Battery charge shouldn't affect coil resistance. Correct?
If the 'toppers' work fine on another PV, then the problem is with the (dare I say it?) the Provari.
If there is something wrong with the Provari's circuit board (it is electronics and problems can happen to electronics at any time), wether reading the coil's resistance or the battery charge then that might be the problem.
Recommend contact Provape and see what they want to do.
 

BernieVideo

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I blame the Kangars. They often either trigger an E1 error code, or fail to be read (0 ohms) on my mini. They are wonky in general.

I have to remove them. Wait a bit. Reinstall them. Fiddle with how tightly I wind them down onto the connection.

I never have this issue with cartos, only with the Protank. Oddly I dont have this issue with the hyper tanks which have the same coil and similar base as the Kangars.




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The Ocelot

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i'm really hoping its the batteries.
i noticed that the connection point in the battery tube is quite dirty.
gonna try cleaning it as soon as i find some rubbing alcohol.
praying that is the reason.
if not i'll get some new batteries tmr and test em out.

really hoping i don't have to send it back to provape tho

Cleaning is a very good idea. It sounds like something isn't connecting somewhere. You could also send an email to ProVape and explain your situation. They can suggest things you can try to resolve issues, before considering sending it in for service.
 

errolng

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Cleaning is a very good idea. It sounds like something isn't connecting somewhere. You could also send an email to ProVape and explain your situation. They can suggest things you can try to resolve issues, before considering sending it in for service.


yea i did but their suggestion was to send it back haha
 

errolng

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ok i cleaned it with a dry q-tip and everything has been working fine so far.
battery down to 3.4V and still working good.
will do a proper clean tmr once i get some 99% rubbing alcohol.

question is, why is the contact pin down the battery tube dirty if its new?
only got it yesterday.
ordered from pink mule.
thought they were supposed to be reliable
 

The Ocelot

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I don't know why the connector was dirty, maybe a bit of something left on during manufacturing? A little dust on the top of the first battery that was put in?

Despite the Magic that is ProVari, it's a piece of machinery. Personally, as long as cleaning off the connectors has it working now, I wouldn't worry too much about why it wasn't working before. I don't think you will find an answer. Sometimes things just need to be used for awhile to get all the pieces working together as they should.

The first time I put a new Protank on one of my brand new mods (I can't recall if it was a Vamo or a Zmax) it threw an error code. I cleaned off the 510 connector and it worked fine. It hasn't had a problem since.

With regard to battery life:

You may want to try using devices with a higher resistance. When vaping we generally use up more mAh than a battery is rated for, especially with variable power devices (VV or VW). Plus, using low resistance and low voltage to produce the same watts as higher resistance and higher voltage uses more amps and can shorten the battery charge. At the settings most of us vape though, the shortened life may not be noticeable, but perhaps to some people it is.

The 18350 batteries I use in my mini are listed as 700mAh. You will often see on the forum that 100mAh equals = 1 hours of "use," but that's rarely, if ever, the case and not the whole picture.

mAh (milli-ampere hour) is a capacity rating that measures how much current a battery will discharge over a specified period of time (typically a one hour period). Higher mAh ratings do not necessarily reflect how fast current can be drawn, but rather, how long a current can be drawn. For example a 2000 mAh battery will sustain a 2000 milli-Amp draw for approximately one hour before dropping to a voltage level that is considered discharged. A 1700 mAh battery will sustain a 1700 milli-Amp draw for approximately one hour. Overall capacity will be influenced by other factors including what power level the device is set at (no matter if it's VV or VW) and if the battery is regulated or unregulated.

In less technical terms: 100mAh doesn't equal roughly 1 hour of producing watts, it equals roughly 1 hour of current being drawn from the battery. It's a very fine distinction and not terrible important to an average vaper (in fact, I recommend you forget everything I just typed, except for the general concept). It might come into play if someone is obsessed with why their batteries aren't lasting exactly the mAh that's listed on the wrapper, but if they care that much they should really get out more. To the majority of us 100mAh ≈ 1 hour of use is an adequate analogy - although it's still safer to knock a couple of hours off when applying the time to vaping (I say 700mAh lasts about 5-6 hours. If it lasts longer, Yippee! If it doesn't, you were prepared for it).

Now what was this amp thing I was talking about?

As noted above, battery life is determined by the amps you're pulling.

I changed the order of quadrants around on the wheel, but the formulae are all still correct.

yo2.gif

P = power (watts)
V = volts
R = resistance
I = current (amps) I forgot why it's "I"

Voltage x voltage ÷ resistance (ohms) = power (watts)

4.5v²/2.2Ω = 9.2w

Voltage ÷ resistance (ohms) = I (current/amps)

4.5v/2.2Ω = 2.05 amps

3.7v²/1.5Ω = 9.1w

3.7v/1.5Ω = 2.47 amps

Even though a 2.2Ω atty at 4.5v and a 1.5Ω atty at 3.7v are producing the same amount of watts (+/- 9), when vaping low-res the amps increase, which draws more from the battery.

Since 9 watts is 9 watts, an average vaper isn't going to notice a difference in the temperature of their vape (I'm sure I will be corrected about this by someone really smart, but I am an "average" vaper writing for other average vapers); however, if the vaper is watching the clock, they might theoretically be able to tell the battery isn't lasting as long, but these are similar to people who can calculate the exact moment a microwave begins to generate heat in a potato.

ProVape recommends using 3.0Ω devices, since it offers a broader range of voltage settings to find your "Sweet Spot."

I won't even touch coulombs. rawr
cheetah_icon_by_topazdragon19-d35u537.gif
 
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