Low Voltage Cut Out

Status
Not open for further replies.

CapeCAD

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 2, 2010
232
25
Massachusetts
For those interested: I finally got a chance to test the resistor between Pin1 and gnd on an OKR 3 Amp converter, a value between 100k and 470k seemed to work best. At 500k and over the converter did not shut down when power was removed from pin 1.

*Edit: Tested with 3 Amp converter, 6 Amp or 10 Amp converters may need lower resistance (47k).
 
Last edited:

bstedh

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 5, 2011
1,551
581
Northern Minnesota
www.clear.com
For those interested: I finally got a chance to test the resistor between Pin1 and gnd on an OKR converter, a value between 100k and 470k seemed to work best. At 500k and over the converter did not shut down when power was removed from pin 1.

I am assuming you are using the zener modification to my drawing that you made? What ratting zener did you use?
 

bstedh

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 5, 2011
1,551
581
Northern Minnesota
www.clear.com
Can you expain how this works to a noob . It looks like power is supplied to pin 1 when the switch is open and when the switch is closed power is somehow cut off to pin 1 even though it is still connected to ground by the resistor ?

The OKR is normally in an on state. The resistor to ground turns it off by pulling the pin to -. + supplied by the switch turns it on. The zener will only conduct when the voltage across it is above its rating so the switch will do nothing if the batteries drop below this point.

The control pin circuit only uses a low current draw so you can use a low rated tactile switch instead of switching the main power load.

We are using a standard normally open switch.
 
Last edited:

skipdashu

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 12, 2011
503
245
71
Central Texas
What I have experienced is the battery closes to the Neg, always drains the most (lowest reading)
Me too. That's 'cause all them currents and raisins come out of the neg side. The other battery just used to push them out.



JUST kiddin' but serious about which battery seems to take the hit.
 
Last edited:

asnider123

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 30, 2010
1,389
1,244
The Original ModFather, USA
Now we'll need an alarm circuit for "Half way thru"! ;-)

Actually, there are simple circuits that you can set to any voltage level and will indicate, with an LED, when you go below the threshold level. Think I saw it here on ECF somewhere ????? Set it to change led color when it reaches 7.4v
 

skipdashu

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 12, 2011
503
245
71
Central Texas
For those of you that might use Linux there's a schematic editor/drawer in the Ubuntu/Debian repositories called "gEDA Schematic Editor". I've only used it's 'drawing' mode for some very simple mod circuits so far. Here's an example screen:

gEDA_screen.jpg


Hmmm, try this for a bigger pic. This one is good 'nuff to give u a quick look at it
 
Last edited:

skipdashu

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 12, 2011
503
245
71
Central Texas
Actually, there are simple circuits that you can set to any voltage level and will indicate, with an LED, when you go below the threshold level. Think I saw it here on ECF somewhere ????? Set it to change led color when it reaches 7.4v
I'll take a look 'round but I was thinking more like 6.2~6.5v if I was doing the z-diode thing.

Oh wait, we were talking about half way houses weren't we... nvr mind.
 

CraigHB

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 31, 2010
1,249
314
Reno, Nevada
For those of you that might use Linux there's a schematic editor/drawer in the Ubuntu/Debian repositories called "gEDA Schematic Editor". I've only used it's 'drawing' mode for some very simple mod circuits so far.

I'm not a Linux user, well not regularly, but from what I've read, gEDA competes with the best of them. It's a full PCB design suite. It also has a board editor that allows you to use your schematics directly in designing a PCB. Eagle is the suite I use for Windows and it's similar. Eagle has a big learning curve and can be downright frustrating at times, even after you're familiar with it. I'm sure gEDA is easier to use. One other really nice thing about gEDA is it has GerbV which allows you to view the plot files you send out for PCB designs. Eagle does not have that. There's a Windows version of GerbV so that's what I use.
 

skipdashu

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 12, 2011
503
245
71
Central Texas
I'm not a Linux user, well not regularly, but from what I've read, gEDA competes with the best of them. It's a full PCB design suite. It also has a board editor that allows you to use your schematics directly in designing a PCB. Eagle is the suite I use for Windows and it's similar. Eagle has a big learning curve and can be downright frustrating at times, even after you're familiar with it. I'm sure gEDA is easier to use. One other really nice thing about gEDA is it has GerbV which allows you to view the plot files you send out for PCB designs. Eagle does not have that. There's a Windows version of GerbV so that's what I use.

Wow, I had no idea. What u r doing is so far beyond how I'm using it... I installed it's device editor also but haven't spent any real time trying to figure that out.

Since it's stock libraries can draw caps, resistors, lines and some ICs that's about all I'm using it for at this point. Just to make pictures and get a visual. I have used it to send a schematic to my brother for 'how do I change this to..." questions and had thought if I had to I could do that here also even if it's just a screenshot.

Which reminds me that I need to go find that diagram where one of ya'll drew in the zener diode on the disable pin. I might get started on the V2 of the 'blue box' tonight.
 
Last edited:

skipdashu

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 12, 2011
503
245
71
Central Texas
Have I got all the parts in the right place with right values now?

S2 is a NO low amp momentary (mad vapes 8x8 tac)
S1 is SPST master power switch (the one spec'd in Dena pdf)
S3 is SPDT (with middle off) voltage selection for the display (the one spec'd in Dena pdf)
L1 is the atty
Z1 is either a 6.2v or 5.6v zener (online components)
R5 is a 200ohm trim pot (the one spec'd in Dena pdf)
U1 OKR-T/6 from mouser.com


Schematic

Thanx, Skip


PS: Red lines w/b 22AWG. Grey lines from B- to atty the same. All else is 26AWG.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread