lower temp on rta's?

[mechhunter]

I usually vape around 450 on rda's. When I try 450 on tanks, it feels warmer and temperature protection almost never kicks in. I tried setting it to 350 and it seems to work better. Is this normal? Do you set your temps lower on tanks? tanks I have tried with nickel coils are the subtank mini, lemo drop, taifun gt2, a few others.

 

[dr g]

what device? you have to say device.

 

[nilly]

On rda's like marquis and veritas i usually set around 440-460F and on kayfun 4 with the small chamber i need to push around 490F for a decent vape. So quite the opposite for me.

 

[mechhunter]

what device? you have to say device.

Waidea vaporflask clone

 

[TheBloke]

I expect to set an RTA lower than an RDA. 380 - 400 is where I usually am with most of the tanks I've used so far, on both my IPV4 and DNA40 clones.

Pbusardo in his review of the sx mini M described setting the Kayfun 4 and Squape as low as 300, compared to 450 on an RDA. He then demonstrated with his FLIR camera (a camera that visualises and measures temperature) that setting a Kf 4 to around 300 actually reached 450 or more.

I guess it's the much greater amount of metal between mod and coil that affects the temp calculations on an RTA. So presumably the more complicated the path the more adjustment potentially required.

Sent by fondling my slab.

 

[Treeburner1983]

There's often a big difference in airflow between RTAs versus RDAs, which I would expect to affect the temperature setting you find comfortable.

-Treeburner

 

[TheBloke]

There's often a big difference in airflow between RTAs versus RDAs, which I would expect to affect the temperature setting you find comfortable.

-Treeburner

That's definitely a factor as well, yeah. But beyond that I believe they are also causing the temp sensing to be less accurate - ie the chip thinks it's ~300 when it's actually 450; an issue that happens far more with some tanks than others, and doesn't happen much at all with RDAs (at least from my experience and what I've seen on some videos.)

 

[dr g]

Generally I find RTAs, especially with vertical coils/premade heads, to run higher temperature settings. This is with genuine DNAs.

This is to be expected given the design of these coils.

 

[ChrisCanal]

I use only the rebuildable tanks, and i tend to like them around 360 or so up to about 400, depending on the tank. RDA's i tend to be around 400 to 425 or so. I cant speak for the premade coils, however. It probably depends a lot on the design of the actual device you are using however.

 

[Croak]

I run about 450-520 on my Kayfun V4, juice dependent, 70% VG runs lower than Max VG, and I rarely use something as runny as 70% VG since I detest PG.

That's still nearly double what Phil showed in his video. But guess what? Phil had a bad build. 280f on my K4 is almost like not pressing the fire button at all.

Anyway, in the 450-520f range on my K4 and 25-40w settings with my typical 0.18 to 0.22 30ga single strand builds, it's actually still a warm to lukewarm vape, something very close to running the same atomizer with a 1.2ohm Kanthal coil at the 13w range in regards to temp, but with a lot more flavor and vapor. Actual power once it's firing steady varies between 15w-25w.

I need to run over 500f to get what I consider a passable vape with Subtank prebuilts, though that's relative, since I personally think the Subtank nickel coils fellate donkies.

EDIT: I should note that while my temps may seem high, do keep in mind that I use thick juices and VG has a 500f+ vapor point, unlike PG which boils away below 400F. If you're into runny juice, my temps will probably taste burnt to you. It's not something I'm going to experiment with myself, I'd rather smoke a real cigarette than vape high PG juice.

 

[TheBloke]

Oh, interesting! What did he do to the build to require such a major temperature offset?

 

[Croak]

He used an unmodified Kayfun V4 and used the juice control. The 510 and the positive terminal on the build deck are connected by a loose spring that compresses/uncompresses as you open or close the juice control, and it can throw resistance off a LOT (for Ni200 builds). Several solutions, the simplest being, get a good connection with the juice control in the open position, and just leave it open, which means bottom filling with a syringe/needle-tip bottle.

Just to give you a rough idea how bad it can be with a Kayfun 4, I've had 0.12 ohm (verified) builds read as high as 0.6 ohms, on a cold coil. That's the extreme, but it's pretty common to be off by more than 0.05 after simply closing the JC to fill, then opening it again. 0.05, as you know, makes a huge difference with nickel builds. And once again, that's on a cold coil.

Subtanks have a somewhat similar problem, or at least the original 25mm and the version of the Mini I have, in that the 510 pin floats, which is not a good thing, and it's made worse when using prebuilts and those (for Ni200) long-arsed coil legs.

 

[TheBloke]

Ah OK, and that's separate from the "Spring Update" to the KF4? Even with the spring update, juice control should be avoided?

I'm pretty sure he does have the updated spring, as it was from him that I first heard of it.

 

[Croak]

Spring update doesn't solve the problem.

 

[nilly]

Just some toughts about the KF4 spring, i stretched out my spring quite a bit, and it doesnt change ohms at all when twisting the juice control. not a bit, have tested this several times, and always top fill with adjusting the juice control. and recheck the ohms after each refill, it never ever changes.

So my tip is stretch out that spring, it wont reposition on you. and btw my tempretures in the post above is with no PG, very high VG with just a dash of distilled water, should have mentioned this.

 

[mechhunter]

I tried nickel with the kf4 and it was too much of a hassle to keep the ohms steady. I even got the updated gold spring and it was still jumping.

Side question for those that have used the 4s kit on their kf4. It only comes with one peek insulator for right below the build deck. But there is another insulator underneath that goes around the airflow tube. Should I be concerned with it melting when going subohm, especially using nickel when trying temp control?

 

[Croak]

I wouldn't sweat it, that insulator is surrounding the airflow tube, which is, well, air-cooled, and isolated from the build deck by the PEEK insulator. Plus there's very little real surface area of the airflow tube exposed to coil heat, which will be nowhere near enough to offset cool air coming in.