Lubricating the threads?
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Noalox - http://www.amazon.com/Noalox®-Anti-oxidant-Compound-Oz-Bottle/dp/B0019KHHRE
Can be found at local hardware stores. Ex.( Ace, Home Depot, Lowes, etc
Can be found at local hardware stores. Ex.( Ace, Home Depot, Lowes, etc
Your best bet for thread lubrication is Noalox. Easy to find at a hardware store (such as Home Depot) in the electrical section. A small tube will run a couple of bucks and will last a long time. Another equally good product is Ox-Gard, but that can be a bit more difficult to find (I've only been able to get it on Amazon).
For either, put a small amount on the threads -- don't overdo it. Every so often (month or two) wipe it off with a rag and re-apply since it can collect dirt and grime.
For either, put a small amount on the threads -- don't overdo it. Every so often (month or two) wipe it off with a rag and re-apply since it can collect dirt and grime.
Ok I'll check it out when I get a few bucks. But in the meantime is there any household stuff that would work?
I mean it's not a huge deal I just don't like the feeling of the grinding when I screw down the telescope.
I mean it's not a huge deal I just don't like the feeling of the grinding when I screw down the telescope.
WD-40 will work in a pinch. Don't spray it on the SVD since you only need a little. Spray some on a rag, then wipe the rag on the threads. Or, just spray a bit on your finger then use your finger to apply. Noalox is the preferred option, however -- works better.
The threading is my only significant complaint about my SVD. Wished it was machined a bit better.
The threading is my only significant complaint about my SVD. Wished it was machined a bit better.
lol so what your saying is if it was a pack of lighters for your analogs it would be affordable? No offense meant but the stuff is so dirt cheap and is well worth it to protect the longevity of your device(s).
I couldn't afford a pack of lighters right now either hah. That's a big part of why I switched to vaping. It's cheaper.
Noalox won't really "smooth out" the threads on any mod. If trying to actually smooth out some rough threads, put a little polishing compound used for car paint on the threads and put back together and turn it back & forth working the compound in the threads. After some time unscrew it and clean all threads well with either ultrasonic or water & soap with an old toothbrush to remove all remaining compound. Works for removing micro burrs on fine threads.
Follow up with a light film of Noalox and it should be good to go. If still rough, repeat.
Follow up with a light film of Noalox and it should be good to go. If still rough, repeat.
That's probably the nicest method of taking care of the problem.
Nobody has answered the question of just using a small dab of pure VG on a rag though to help smooth the friction.
Nobody has answered the question of just using a small dab of pure VG on a rag though to help smooth the friction.
Don't put Vg on the threads. You whole device is an electrical ground. The body transmits the negative side of the battery up to the 510 connection at the top. If you put Vg on the threads, you could disrupt the ground.
Noalox, is recommended a lot, and it is decent. You need to work the Noalox into the threads with a old toothbrush. But the problem with Noalox, is never really solidifies. I use di-electric grease. Comes in a spray can and does solidify.
One of the problems with our mods, is they are made out of stainless steel. Really poor conductor of electricity. We would be better off if they were made out of aluminum, like a Maglite. If you have a choice, buy a brass mod. The copper in it is best conductor.
You will see mods with silver contact points, or Roduim coated springs, brass springs, etc., but the ground is still transmitted through the stainless steel body. So all those fancy bottom springs, are just a gimmick. As suggested, WD-40 is not bad, Noalox is better, and di-electric grease is best.
It is a good idea, using the polishing compound for taking the roughness off the threads. I use automotive valve seat compound. Smoothing out the threads makes for better contact between the threads, increasing the electrical ground through the body to the negative side of the battery.
Greg W.
Noalox, is recommended a lot, and it is decent. You need to work the Noalox into the threads with a old toothbrush. But the problem with Noalox, is never really solidifies. I use di-electric grease. Comes in a spray can and does solidify.
One of the problems with our mods, is they are made out of stainless steel. Really poor conductor of electricity. We would be better off if they were made out of aluminum, like a Maglite. If you have a choice, buy a brass mod. The copper in it is best conductor.
You will see mods with silver contact points, or Roduim coated springs, brass springs, etc., but the ground is still transmitted through the stainless steel body. So all those fancy bottom springs, are just a gimmick. As suggested, WD-40 is not bad, Noalox is better, and di-electric grease is best.
It is a good idea, using the polishing compound for taking the roughness off the threads. I use automotive valve seat compound. Smoothing out the threads makes for better contact between the threads, increasing the electrical ground through the body to the negative side of the battery.
Greg W.
Leo,
VG is vegetable glycerin which is vegetable fat which has been used as a lubricant for a gazillion years. It might help but it sure won't hurt anything. Give it a go, just use it sparingly so that it is not running down into you mod.
VG is vegetable glycerin which is vegetable fat which has been used as a lubricant for a gazillion years. It might help but it sure won't hurt anything. Give it a go, just use it sparingly so that it is not running down into you mod.
Actually, since most of the juice we use, has a synthetic base, the glycerin we have is classified as a carbohydrate.
Greg W.
Greg W.
Greg,
Thanks for the correction. Not that I didn't believe you but I looked it up and it is classified a carbohydrate. But I swear I read someplace that it was classified as a fat... Oh well organic chemistry was never my strong suit.
But as far as wetting the threads on his APV I wouldn't think it will hurt to try. I don't think it will do what he wants it to do but it will sure be easy to clean off if it doesn't perform.
Thanks for the correction. Not that I didn't believe you but I looked it up and it is classified a carbohydrate. But I swear I read someplace that it was classified as a fat... Oh well organic chemistry was never my strong suit.
But as far as wetting the threads on his APV I wouldn't think it will hurt to try. I don't think it will do what he wants it to do but it will sure be easy to clean off if it doesn't perform.
Just in case this is all it is -
On my SVD, if you turn the tube with no battery, it's smooth as butter.
It's when you are tightening with a battery in there that there's a sort of "grinding".
Is yours like that?
That's because you have a spring pushing against you, and pushing against the threading.
If you gently press the bottom tube "up" towards the top of the device WHILE turning, you're relieving the spring pressure and the threads don't have to bear all the resistance. It will be much smoother and make the threads last longer.
On the other hand, for like $2, I got a little tube of Noalox, rubbed a finger-dab into the threads, and now it just glides. It's a little 1/2 oz tube, and will probably last me 10 years.
On my SVD, if you turn the tube with no battery, it's smooth as butter.
It's when you are tightening with a battery in there that there's a sort of "grinding".
Is yours like that?
That's because you have a spring pushing against you, and pushing against the threading.
If you gently press the bottom tube "up" towards the top of the device WHILE turning, you're relieving the spring pressure and the threads don't have to bear all the resistance. It will be much smoother and make the threads last longer.
On the other hand, for like $2, I got a little tube of Noalox, rubbed a finger-dab into the threads, and now it just glides. It's a little 1/2 oz tube, and will probably last me 10 years.
Train2,
Clever suggestion about unloading the spring!
Do you happen to remember where you purchased the small tube of Noalox?
Clever suggestion about unloading the spring!
Do you happen to remember where you purchased the small tube of Noalox?
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