What is the difference really? Just another way to get a good hit surely?
Is one method better than another?
Is one method better than another?
LV atty at 3.7v or HV atty at 6v?
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different people have different opinions on this, but here's mine: there are different kinds of vapes (hot, warm, somewhat cooler, etc) and there are many ways to achieve those different vapes. 3.7 w/ a LR atty, 3.7 w/ a standard atty, 5v w/ a standard atty, 6v w/ a standard atty, 5 or 6 w/ a higher resistance atty, 7.4v w/ a HR atty, and of course there's VV to play around with the numbers between 4 & 5 or 5 & 6. then of course there's also the difference between vaping w/ an atty vs. vaping w/ a carto...the list can go on and on. the point is to find what works for you, and i tend to find that i'm happiest in the 9-10.5 watt range, w/ a 510 atty most of the time, be it low res (1.5-2 ohms) standard (2.2-2.5 ohms) or slightly higher than standard (3-3.5 ohms). here's a link to a great calculator to calculate watts, amps, volts, or ohms (you put in 2, it solves for the rest): Ohm's Law / Watt's Law Calculator.
of course, remember that all devices are not made equal, so the same voltage will likely vape different on different devices (resistance of the mod itself or the circuitry involved is mostly to blame for this).
hope i was able to answer your question, and sorry if it got long-winded
of course, remember that all devices are not made equal, so the same voltage will likely vape different on different devices (resistance of the mod itself or the circuitry involved is mostly to blame for this).
hope i was able to answer your question, and sorry if it got long-winded
I took a stab at explaining (for non-technical folks like me) LR, HV, and volts/ohms/watts/amps in this article.
Indeed, either increasing battery voltage or decreasing atomizer resistance (never both at the same time) will increase the intensity of the vape. Increasing battery voltage has less of a negative impact on atomizer life than decreasing atomizer resistance (because of the difference in the formulas for watts and amps). So, in that way, an HV atty on 6V is better than an LR atty on 3.2V (e.g., eGo) to 3.7V (e.g., "Special Edition" Riva and "3.7V" mods).
Pragmatically, however, an LR atty on a fat batt is the less expensive and more convenient way to go. There is a much greater availability – and range of resistance levels – of LR atomizers and cartomizers than HV. And an LR atty or carto on a $30-$35 Riva is cheaper (and smaller) than an HV atty on an $80++ 6V mod. Also, the increased popularity of ~2.0 ohms rather than 1.5 ohms puts less strain on the atty or carto.
Indeed, either increasing battery voltage or decreasing atomizer resistance (never both at the same time) will increase the intensity of the vape. Increasing battery voltage has less of a negative impact on atomizer life than decreasing atomizer resistance (because of the difference in the formulas for watts and amps). So, in that way, an HV atty on 6V is better than an LR atty on 3.2V (e.g., eGo) to 3.7V (e.g., "Special Edition" Riva and "3.7V" mods).
Pragmatically, however, an LR atty on a fat batt is the less expensive and more convenient way to go. There is a much greater availability – and range of resistance levels – of LR atomizers and cartomizers than HV. And an LR atty or carto on a $30-$35 Riva is cheaper (and smaller) than an HV atty on an $80++ 6V mod. Also, the increased popularity of ~2.0 ohms rather than 1.5 ohms puts less strain on the atty or carto.
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