Mage RTA problem - very hot / Post pin Short?

[Doncoco]

Hi guys..

Im having problem with my authentic Mage RTA, which is this is my first experience with such problem which I couldn't fix it for moment.

Basically, it happens couple days ago.. while i done with routine cotton replacement. That time was bit difficult because the inside thread stuck a bit, so i used tools to help open it.
Then proceed as usual.

The weird thing is, when I'm vaping it seems normal but suddenly i felt uncomfortable temperature on the mage bottom part (which connected to my triade 250) its vry hot even when im not vaping it.

Then I checked and rebuild again.. but the problem is still there..

I've done built coil from khantal, ni80, ss but still got the problem.

I believe my mage is short in some way. But since i dont know how to tear it down.

Do u guys have any advice how to fix this mage? Or it just failed product?

Anyway, i've been using it since couple months and it was never been abuse or anything else. Tried attached it on my other mods and same issue.

Thanks guys for your help


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[classwife]

Moved you to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems - RTA from Ask The Veterans.
You need help now - not in a few days

 

[DaveP]

You need to check the resistance of the coil or coils with and accurate ohmmeter. You didn't say what power level you were at or the temperature level if you are doing temp control.

What was your target resistance? Have you measured it or does your mod show you amperage or wattage? You have a mod with a DNA 200 chip that can go to 250 watts, We don't know your settings, vape power level, or atty resistance.

Are the batteries getting hot when the case does? You probably need three 30A batteries in that mod if you vaping in the high wattage range with a low resistance coil.

My Wismec Relleaux 200W mod is similar to the one you have. The first thing I noticed about it was that it got hot around the display and the lower end of my Kayfun 3.1 while vaping at 10W. In mine the reason that happened is that there's more plastic in the mod than there is metal! So, the atomizer heat isn't sinked into the frame of the mod. I bought a finned 510 heat sink and installed it under my atomizer. That solved most of the heat and brought it down to some level of normal.

 

[Doncoco]

You need to check the resistance of the coil or coils with and accurate ohmmeter. You didn't say what power level you were at or the temperature level if you are doing temp control.

What was your target resistance? Have you measured it or does your mod show you amperage or wattage? You have a mod with a DNA 200 chip that can go to 250 watts, We don't know your settings, vape power level, or atty resistance.

Are the batteries getting hot when the case does? You probably need three 30A batteries in that mod if you vaping in the high wattage range with a low resistance coil.

My Wismec Relleaux 200W mod is similar to the one you have. The first thing I noticed about it was that it got hot around the display and the lower end of my Kayfun 3.1 while vaping at 10W. In mine the reason that happened is that there's more plastic in the mod than there is metal! So, the atomizer heat isn't sinked into the frame of the mod. I bought a finned 510 heat sink and installed it under my atomizer. That solved most of the heat and brought it down to some level of normal.

Hi Dave,
Thanks for your explanation. So sorry i forgot to mention it,
Im regular user for 0.2-0.3 ohm and 50-70watts power.

Build normaly on my other rta and rda is just fine. No excess heat on atty nor on mod.

I've checked the post pin and somehow it didnt stay firm like it used to be i guess.
I just can push it easily to move it, not firm anymore. Is it normal?

Do u have any video links that show how to tear down mage?

Thanks a bunch mate ^_^


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[DaveP]

The center post in most RBAs just unscrews from the positive post. It's what holds the positive deck section in place. The hollow tube you see under the wick is the top of the center post screw that you see on the bottom of the atomizer.

Normally, you just screw the center contact in all the way. That tightens down the positive deck component. If the screw is loose, so is the positive coil post contact.

 

[Doncoco]

The center post in most RBAs just unscrews from the positive post. It's what holds the positive deck section in place. The hollow tube you see under the wick is the top of the center post screw that you see on the bottom of the atomizer.

Normally, you just screw the center contact in all the way. That tightens down the positive deck component. If the screw is loose, so is the positive coil post contact.

Ahh let me cheeck then.. will get vack to u for the result.

Thanks lot dave


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[DaveP]

Ahh let me cheeck then.. will get vack to u for the result.

Thanks lot dave


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Take the deck off the atomizer and line the positive section up parallel with the other side and tighten down the center contact screw. The air hole in the shank of the screw should also line up correctly with the air hole duct to ensure proper air flow. That should happen automatically, since it's cut by design to match the air holes when properly installed.