Major Button Mod - Firing Pin-ectomy

[ecitek]

Let me start this thread by saying that my reasons for doing this mod have nothing to do with the build quality of the REO, or the FANTASTIC customer service that Robert offers. Rob goes over-and-above when it comes to his support of his product.

Also - I am NOT suggesting you do this - I am just showing you what I did.

EDIT: This is probably NOT a mod that sub-ohmers would want to try - switch is rated 5 amps (thanks for pointing that out ChrisEU)

I was having problems with the firing pin and melted buttons. I noticed there were a lot of threads discussing this. I think it might have something to do with the fact that the point on the firing pin seemed to be pitting the tops of my batteries and that is where the bad connection would be. I was having a lot of trouble getting good contact, and that was making it take a good long while for the coil on my Reomizer to heat up. So I went WAY out on a limb... Here are pics of the battery and then my mod below.

So I decided to get rid of the Firing Pin altogether.

I found a button that would work and that looked good - the "horn style button" that Madvapes sells for under a buck.

I had to grind down the inside of the top edge so the threads would go through and the nut would catch.

Then I used a stepped drill bit to enlarge the original button hole to 1/2".

Then I cut an old firing pin in half and soldered a short wire to it. The button has two legs - I shortened one of them so it would not contact the battery, and the other is what the battery makes contact with.

Once it was in place I coated the short leg and wire end with JB Weld so it would not be able to come in contact with the battery for any reason. So as you can see the battery top comes in contact with one leg of the button.

I have been using it a couple of days and it works great. The atomizer heats up FAST and burns a lot hotter, so it seems to be getting a lot more power. I know I have to feed the juice a lot more and the hits are awesome. Here is the finished product.

I took a big chance drilling out my REO - I knew it would be success or buy-a-new-REO-time. Luckily, (so far) it ROCKS and I am happy.

 

[ChrisEU]

That switch is rated at 5 Amps - if you had problems with melting fire buttons you must be sub ohming. Anything under 0,8 Ohms or so will be outside the spec of the switch. Just a heads up.

Othe'n that - looks good =)

 

[ecitek]

I consistently run at 1.5 - 1.7 ohms. Never below - even when the switches were melting.

I think arcing at the battery, where it was pitted, was causing the heat that melted the buttons. But I am not electronics-smart, so just a guess - especially since I could never find a short and never had a spring collapse.

 

[ChrisEU]

O, that is news to me - never heard of melting buttons at those resistances. My apologies =)
How does the new switch feel, compared to the mechanical one?

 

[ecitek]

It feels great. I have always like these buttons and always used them when building mods was the only way to get a good e-cig.

I thought I might add a fuse just in case, but I think I am safe as I have used these buttons with 1.5ohm atties for many years.

 

[ChrisEU]

Yes, that's well within spec - and you can easily replace the button for a dollar =)

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

I was worried about the pin spiking the batterys aswell, this is a good mod...

 

[mackman]

Looks very clean and I salute your creativeness, for me Noalox keeps my batteries from pitting (at .7 ohm).

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

Looks very clean and I salute your creativeness, for me Noalox keeps my batteries from pitting (at .7 ohm).

my bad! I also thought it was the spike

 

[EagleTa2]

I havent seen any pitting on my batteries (aw) or melting of my button. I find my sweet spot is .8 to .9 ohms on a micro coil.

I commend your courage though. I couldn't bring myself to bore out my Reo like that. I would just buy new batteries and some Noalox.

Thanks
Geo

 

[ecitek]

I havent seen any pitting on my batteries (aw) or melting of my button. I find my sweet spot is .8 to .9 ohms on a micro coil...

That's weird because I use 6 batteries (AW/Panasonic) in rotation and ALL of them have pitting. And I DO use Noalox and clean my contacts. And I never had a heavy hand on the button. The last two firing pins I got were pretty sharp at the point.

I was pretty nervous about drilling it out myself, but I've built a lot of my own mods and knew there was a pretty good chance it would work. Still, I was dreading the moment that I would break it or "mod" it beyond repair.

 

[Justice]

I ran .5 ohms for a few weeks with no pitting I generally run about 1 or just under now no pitting if you are using noalox properly and are still melting buttons at those ohms you have a short in your mod or atty its that simple

 

[volta399]

I consistently run at 1.5 - 1.7 ohms. Never below - even when the switches were melting.

I think arcing at the battery, where it was pitted, was causing the heat that melted the buttons. But I am not electronics-smart, so just a guess - especially since I could never find a short and never had a spring collapse.

I was also melting buttons when running my coils at 1.5-1.8 ohms. I was using orbtronic black button top batteries, and they were sparking/arcing all the time. Ever since I switched to strictly AW 18650 batts, the problem has gone away.

 

[ecitek]

UPDATE - Couldn't be happier with this mod. Works better than ever. And this is how often I have to clean, file and noalox it - NEVER.

Dropped the unit once and physically broke the button - derp - my bad. Took a soldering iron and about 10 minutes (and less than a buck) to replace it with a new button.

 

[turbocad6]

that button may be rated for 5 amps but it's rated at 5 amps at **volts, so even if it's only rated to 5 amps at 12v it will still allow well over 10 amps at 4.2v and if it's rated at 5 amps at 120v which is probably more likely to be the case then your only real limitation is the battery.

this is about the same setup as a woody but the woody uses long runs of thin gauge wire where you are not. you may not realize it but what you have there really will be a sub ohm monster. would probably need to make the tab contact at the top of the battery a little more substantial as far as surface contact area to see full benefit but otherwise this is a great upgrade as far as functionality goes

 

[cessnapix]

Just heads up jb weld is conductive and cauld cause a short on the aluminum case.