Manual vs Auto

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Coil

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My entrance to vaping was on an automatic and I couldn't stand it. I had the problems many face and complain about like going off in my pocket (even in an ecig case) which drained my battery FAST. It drove me nuts trying to vape while I drove to work and the BAT and atty would get really hot since the air conditioning would even make it go off.

It's the only auto I've ever tried but I'd be willing to try one that didn't have probs like this one. I personally like manuals. I hold the button with my thumb (so the button is faced down and my pointing finger and middle finger go over the top of the battery. WAY more comfortable for me =))
 

C8se

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It sounds like many people have had bad experiences with autos in the past, but equally clear from this post that many veterans who have tried the newer kr808d-1's (i.e. the ones from Smokeless Image, Bloog, V4L) believe the issues have been solved. I've only been vaping a few days, but this is a new members forum, so I'll add my very limited experience.

Just got a Volt and haven't had a single problem with it going off unintentionally. Walked around a festival all day, dropping it in my pocket and pulling it out for a few puffs over and over. Worked like a champ and always got as much vapor as I wanted. Maybe some peoples expectations change after they've been vaping for a while, maybe mine will, but at the moment I can't see needing anything more - except longer battery life and better juice. Can't imagine preferring manual when auto has been working so well for me.

Will be sure to update if experience leads me to revise my opinion :)
 
I used the newer style 808 for a while, and although i didn't have any problems with it turning on when i didn't want it to, what i did have a problem with was that the automatic batteries have a safety mechanism which limits the length of your draw. I guess this is to counter the problem of accidental activation. Anyway, long draws were out of the question and the only way to get a good strong vapor was to give it a powerful primer puff. So that did it for me, now all my batteries are manual and i can drag on them as long as i want.

On a side not, the gentleman who i sold my 808 to doesn't use it anymore because on the second day he had it, it turned on in his pocket and he said it burnt his leg before he realized it. Like i said, a problem i never experienced.
 

wv2win

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I've tried auto and manual, and it's true the manual don't have the hole, the manual makes possible to drip, the manual can be turned on before the puff.

Still I prefer the auto, and these new versions with no self activation issue, even better. It makes vaping just like smoking with no pressing buttons or other strange things. Also a good smart pcc is needed and the best is to get voltage regulated bats so they don't start at 4,1V and end at 3.3V.

The ones I use stay between 3.78 and 3.65V and when I want I charge them in the pocket, and nothing beats that. :vapor:

The preferred power level for many who vape is 4.5 to 5.0 volts. Can an auto battery provide that range?
 

Coiso

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I like 3.7 better than 3.3V or 4.1, 5V i've never tried but I'm gonna be doing a 5V passtrough in the next month to try it.

All I can say is, I've tried vertical coils, dual coils Lr, atty with cartridge, tanks, and none come even close to the performance of a bloog or kanger cartomizer. All the vaping world it's a big taste matter but what I'm seeing is that the only chance to conquer me to the mods and other big PV world will be the voltage, because if the voltage don't make the difference for me, I'll understand all the geekness in vaping but for me the opinion goes much like this vid ‪Smokeless Image Volt Review - The Chainsaw Test?‬‏ - YouTube :vapor:

And btw, I can say that because all the vapers made me so curious that I had to get and manual battery, and so far nothing special, I have to get the drip atty so I can use the manual battery in it's essence. :closedeyes:
 

C8se

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After a week of reading the ECF religiously I am just starting to notice that people advise against plugging ANY of the recharging devices or pass throughs into a computer's USB. I wish I had heard this earlier. Perhaps it should be in a sticky at the top of the new members forum?

It also raises the question of why all the vendors are selling nothing but USB chargers and don't warn anyone? Why would anyone guess there was a risk? Sure you can get a wall adapter (for their USB connectors), but none that I have seen specifically advise it. I bought the pro starter kit when I ordered my Volt and it only comes with a pcc that charges via USB and doesn't come with a wall adapter. I have one on order now, but it seems like borderline negligence for them to sell starter kits without them (or a warning), given all that I've been reading.
 

Puffadder

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It's perfectly fine to charge a battery or use a passthrough on a computer provided the passthrough uses a battery. It's the 5v pt's that draw more than the 500ma supplied from a typical usb connection. Also if you use a USB hub that plugs into an outlet for additional power you are safe.

Charging your batt's via usb is no different that charging your cell phone or mp3 player via usb. Hell I even have a scanner that is completely powered by usb
 

birdbrains

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If you've ordering one of the new-style 808 starter kits you can usually pick one of each. I use the Volt, which I can definitely recommend as a very nicely powered 808, and I prefer the manual battery personally.

In the end I think it comes down to the fact that if you keep vaping for any length of time, you'll eventually at least pick up a more powerful PV for when you're at home or in the car or something. I know the curiosity took me about 2 days after I got my Volt to think "hmmm I want to try these LR atties and dual-coil cartos" so I picked up an E-Power and then later on a REO. Those are all going to have manual switches, so now when I'm out and about with the Volt, I am really used to being able to hit that button and am more comfortable with it. The auto is perfectly fine too, though.
 
The first device I used was an auto. I guess being a recent non analog smoker the thought of harder draws = more smoke was etched into my brain. Eventually I realized that long easy draws was the way to go and felt a little... well... stupid. Since I got the manual switch on my eGo I have a new etching in my skull: "POWER ON."
 

cindycated

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I've only been vaping for 4 months and have already had to replace 2 manual KR808 batts with dead switches - but I love them so much more than the autos. The hit and flavor are always so consistent with manuals to me. Even with the new MF-style auto that I have, I consistently get lots of vapor, but I seem to have to concentrate and focus on how I'm gonna have to hit it to get that same flavor that I get with the manual. When I don't do it just right, all I get is tasteless vapor with no TH. Then all the work with the inhale always leaves me a little light-headed. With the manual, I just push the button and let all that warm, yummy goodness enter my mouth and roll over my tongue. Nice!

Holding it was never a prob for me. I hold it like I used to hold my analog 120s (or a pen) when not in use, and when I'm ready to hit it, I hold it with my thumb and index finger (like you're signaling "OK") and push the button with my middle finger. So used to it now that I find myself feeling for the button even when I'm on my auto batt.
 

C8se

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Charging your batt's via usb is no different that charging your cell phone or mp3 player via usb. Hell I even have a scanner that is completely powered by usb

OK. Thanks for the response. It certainly makes sense when you put it that way. I certainly have many USB powered devices as well. I just started noticing warnings on several different threads, and not all about passthroughs. A couple included first hand reports of fried motherboards, but they may have all concerned higher voltage devices, can't remember.

I did notice when my wall charger arrived today that its manual included this curious quotation, "If you do not have the available VOLT USB Wall Adapter you can plug the USB Battery Charger into an available USB Port. We recommend using a computer with at least a USB 2.0 Port."

I certainly do not wish to belabor the point if it is really not an issue, but maybe a tech savvy poster could speak to the USB 1.0 vs. 2.0 issue? My laptop is older and only has 1.0 ports.
 

Puffadder

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OK. Thanks for the response. It certainly makes sense when you put it that way. I certainly have many USB powered devices as well. I just started noticing warnings on several different threads, and not all about passthroughs. A couple included first hand reports of fried motherboards, but they may have all concerned higher voltage devices, can't remember.

I did notice when my wall charger arrived today that its manual included this curious quotation, "If you do not have the available VOLT USB Wall Adapter you can plug the USB Battery Charger into an available USB Port. We recommend using a computer with at least a USB 2.0 Port."

I certainly do not wish to belabor the point if it is really not an issue, but maybe a tech savvy poster could speak to the USB 1.0 vs. 2.0 issue? My laptop is older and only has 1.0 ports.

Not a problem - I've been repairing and building pc's for about 25 years now. Both 1.0 and 2.0 connections are rated at 5 v and 500ma. However 1.0 (technically 1.1 as 1.0 was the pre-release) was not designed specifically for charging devices and has a number of limitations in that regard. 2.0 was designed from the ground up with chargers in mind and will allow up to 1.8 amps or current by disabling the data connection.

Seeing as 2.0 has been the standard on pc's for about 10 years now I think it's time to consider a newer computer. In tyhe meantime if you use a Y-adaptor cable which splits the charging between 2 ports you should have not problems whatsoever and would likely be OK with a standard cable as well.

Mostly likely the stories of fried motherboards were more related to the computer having a cheap unregulated power supply than anything else. For reference ask in the mod section about using unprotected Li-ion batteries.

My advice (short of the new computer) would be to go to a Radioshack or BestBuy etc. and pick up a powered USB hub which has the added advantage of moving the USB connector to your desktop eliminating and cable length issues as well with a PT.
 
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