Massive Voltage Drop Testing - Requests

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Ed_C

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Oct 11, 2013
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Seligman, MO
Nice work. I'm sure many here will be interested in the results. I know you said you would include which are clones in the final and I think this would be of importance. I hope you'll include which companies supplied these clones as well. Hopefully you'll have comparisons of originals to 1:1 clones, as it will be interesting to see if they perform the same or just look the same.
 

edyle

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Oct 23, 2013
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Hey team ECF,

I'm about to start a round of voltage drop testing that I hope will be some of the most comprehensive ever attempted. I've managed to get my hands on a large number of authentic and 1:1 mech clones, and am putting together a test rig to streamline the process for consistency.

While I still have mods arriving daily, I'd like to get started ASAP so I can return some of the mods to their rightful owners. With that in mind, I want to ensure that I cover all bases with these mods before I send them packing, so I'm giving a shout out to the ECF world to see what you'd like to see included in these tests.

Currently, my test rig is setup for the following:

- Support for 1 or 2 18xxx or 26xxx batteries, in series or parallel
- 0.0, 0.1, 0.25, 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 ohm loads
- Battery sag under load / internal resistance
- Real time voltage and resistance capture to software

Using a separate circuit, I can actually test battery sag under load, which means I can calculate absolute voltage drop by subtracting this value. I'm also going to be able to test many of these with magnet upgrades installed, as many have come to me with both magnets and the original spring.

Here's a small sampling of what I've got on deck:

IMG_5909.jpg


Suggestions and feedback appreciated! I am an engineer by training, but certainly a layman when it comes to this kind of testing. All comments good and bad are welcome.

Also, if you are local to me and/or willing to lend me a mod for testing, I'd appreciate it!

Cheers

A 1 ohm load could be used as the standard for testing/measurement purposes - at least for voltage drop measurements.

The condition of the battery itself is going to affect measurement; as a control, you could keep a mod on standby where you measure voltage drop at 1 ohm at the start of testing, and periodically check it again when using a battery as a way of crosschecking that your battery is up to mark.
 

politbureau

Senior Member
Sep 24, 2014
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Ottawa, Ontario
Wow, awesome work, props to you mate.

Just wanted to tell you that your study/research/test helped me a lot in buying my first mod.

Just ordered a stingray x and a 4nine.

A big thanks to you
Cheers, and glad it helped.

I wanted to update the original posts with details on the mods, including brands and material differentiations, but it appears ECF does not allow edits past a certain time frame. Kind of a waste, as it prevents users from posting detailed long term usage or updates on products they are reviewing.


Jjshbetz11 said:
Thanks for the stingray/tobh test! Pretty much spot on with my own testing, and they were NOT the same clones! Guess we debunked that theroy
All the Stingrays I've tested have been roughly the same, regardless of manufacturer (Tobeco, Hcigar, Infinite, SXK), due mostly to a well designed switch.

Being in the manufacturing and resale trade myself, I must refute a lot of the claims that clones are wholly different from the originals. What typically happens in an overseas manufacturing scenario is that the original designer pays to set up the tooling, selects materials and finishes, and then gets several runs of product. This product is then shipped to the designer on a net-term scenario, allowing them to sell the product and repay the mfg costs. Once the original runs are complete however, the manufacturer has the opportunity to use the tooling and dies to make further runs of the product at a significantly lower cost than if they'd had to pay for the original design and tooling.

In my business (clothing) they will change the design slightly to ensure it does not have branding, or to change the the fabric patterns, spec lower cost parts, or to address issues in the original design. They do NOT change the materials however - this would require re-tooling the line, so would not be practical or cost efficient. The line is setup to make a specific product out of a specific material, using specific tools. Changing the design or the materials would require the mfg to re-setup the tooling for the new materials and design, so it wouldn't make financial sense. This is why clones are so often 1:1 and use the same materials, but with slight changes to logos, button springs, insulators, etc. The problem with saying clones are worse is that the product you are often getting from the original designers are first run, while the products you are getting from the 'clone' maker often has some of the initial run issues addressed. That said, it is just as possible for the clone maker to make a worse product by speccing lower cost parts. It could go either way.

If the product then becomes popular, the factory will often sell off the tooling and design specs to other companies to make, again at significantly lower cost than designing and tooling a line from scratch.

Obviously there are exceptions to this rule, but this cycle happens constantly in my industry, and is considered normal. I see my products on shelves in various markets with different fabrics and under different brand names all the time. The factories we use are adding my product to their demo-rack, and selling the design to other companies who come looking for that factory to do their production.

All this to say that yes - there will be slight differences in the voltage drop of clones and originals, but who is to say which will be better? I own an original Cartel in copper and an infinite clone, and the clone has lower voltage drop. Conversely, my original Chi You has lower drop than the clone - until you swap in the magnets included with the clone, which then takes the lead.

As a closing comment, I will re-iterate what I said in my earlier post, which is that mods with high voltage drop under load are almost invariably let down by a poor switch - and very rarely by poor materials. I've often seen stainless mods perform better than 100% copper ones due to a well designed switch. The Caravela's are a case in point. It's all well to make a mod out of 100% copper, but if you blow the switch design, it doesn't really make a difference.
 
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sir_puffs_alot

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Feb 27, 2014
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your test confirmed what I have figured out with alot of these mods mostly the xxix, and stainless 26650 carte(the boss) as well as some others. I was really suprised with the boss 266540 cartel. For a stainless mod it hits very hard and the switch is great too. I always stayed away from the cartels cuz they had brass contacts but when I saw this one with the silver plated copper pins I snatched it up and now its my fav(owned) 26650 mod. One odd thing I noticed is that the xxix hit harder than the manhattan untill crazy low ohm builds when the manhattan seemed to hit harder. Hard to tell with the manhattans as there is so much variation between clones. The fuhattans switch sux and is all wobbly but the clone I have has a super solid switch with literally no play which is why mine probly works so well. got it off ebay and seller would not tell me the maker, I wanted to know cuz the quality was that good, but he said he was having them made thru a factory in china he didnt want to give up. Also have the king v2 and while I adore the mod I did notice higher than average volt drop and could find the source at first...took the contacts out to polish them and bam they were copper plated brass, lol got the fatdaddy kingv2 h80brass contact kit(80 percent copper brass)then plated and properly plated magnets and the mod hits like a dream now. Just saying this cuz iI love the mod and dont want people turned away cuz of the bad showing on this test. Do you know if it was the clone with brass contacts?
 

sir_puffs_alot

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ECF Veteran
Feb 27, 2014
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Hillsborough, NJ, USA
Also wanted to say i have noticed the same thing with velas...they hit hard as shicacca...I had one yeashmo clone and the darn thing had a .34 drop at .29...i know hard to believe but i swear on it... it was my first mod and i beat it to hell and dont use it cuz its 21mm. had gold plated brass topcapgold plated ss tube and gold plated brass contacts.
 
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