Mech mod battery questions

[HopCloud]

Id first like to point out that I have read the blog posts of Baditude about mod batteries (parts 1 & 2) and that I have progressed from an eGo spinner to RBAs and a Sigelei Zmax V2. On the Zmax, I use the AW IMR 18490 and Panasonic 18650 PF batteries. I know the unprotected form of these batteries is fine because of the regulated nature of the Zmax. Now I have turned my attention to the mechanicals such as the Caravela and Origin. I gather through research that it now becomes important for a protected battery or the use of a "kick chip" or fuse. Im pretty sure I have a good understanding of what I need to look for, but I just want to be SAFE!

I cam currently using an eFest LUC V4 charger (corrected model that fixed the previous voltage issue) for my two battery sizes used on my Zmax. Im assuming this charger will be safe to use with the protected models I need for the mechanical mods. I like to keep my coils at about 1.5 ohms when I build and I check them with a reader before use.

what else do I need to know?

 

[Baditude]

I would suggest that you avoid the protected ICR batteries altogether and use only high-drain, safe-chemistry batteries no matter if you're using mechanical or regulated mods. You need high-drain batteries for regulated mods and mechanical mods using a Kick or RBA. If you use sub-ohm coils in a mechanical mod, you need ultra-high amp high-drain batteries.

Safer chemistry batteries (IMR and hybrid) are literally safer than protected ICR batteries. ICR batteries are a volatile/flamable chemistry and require the use of IC protected circuits to be even considered safe enough to use in electrical appliances. Should that rudimental IC circuit fail (and they do), the battery can go into thermal runaway venting hot gas and flames. In this day of modern battery technology there is no reason to be using a protected ICR battery in any mod. A safe chemistry battery can fail, but not as dramatically as an ICR and not with flames. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/129569-rechargeable-batteries.html



High drain batteries (IMR/hybrid/unprotected) should be used in variable voltage regulated mods because they use pulse width modulation circuitry to make higher voltage (requiring more amps than protected ICR batteries have). Otherwise you will not be able to enjoy the full benefits of your regulated mod. Technical - Why High Drain Batteries?

A large list of high-drain, safe-chemistry, IMR & hybrid batteries are in the following blog:

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?

A Kick and a Vape Safe mod fuse are two entirely different things. A Kick is a regulating module which will convert a mechanical mod into a regulating variable wattage mod. The Kick requires a high drain battery.

A safety fuse is circuit board which can hopefully guard against a hard short or short circuit and prevent a battery meltdown in a mechanical mod.

Kick on top of (positive end) a battery in a mechanical mod (click pic to enlarge)

Vape Safe goes on the negative end of a battery

 

[HopCloud]

Okay, so no need for different batteries. Glad we sorted that out. As far as the Kick vs VS fuse, what is the norm for use? What do people use between the two? It looks like the VS fuse is $10 and the Kick is $45. Granted the Kick does what the VS fuse does but does even more. How does the kick even fit in the mechs with the battery? Looks like there would be a need for more room. Im going to assume you would have to use a smaller battery than the 18650 to make it work.

 

[Baditude]

Okay, so no need for different batteries. Glad we sorted that out. As far as the Kick vs VS fuse, what is the norm for use? What do people use between the two? It looks like the VS fuse is $10 and the Kick is $45. Granted the Kick does what the VS fuse does but does even more. How does the kick even fit in the mechs with the battery? Looks like there would be a need for more room. Im going to assume you would have to use a smaller battery than the 18650 to make it work.

Exactly!

An 18650 mod would need you to step down a size to an 18490/18500 IMR battery to make room for the Kick. Some mod manufacturers have optional extender sleeves or end caps so that you can continue to use an 18650 battery with the Kick. (ie the AltSmoke Silver Bullet)

 

[HopCloud]

Exactly!

An 18650 mod would need you to step down a size to an 18490/18500 IMR battery to make room for the Kick. Some mod manufacturers have optional extender sleeves or end caps so that you can continue to use an 18650 battery with the Kick. (ie the AltSmoke Silver Bullet)

So which one do you use? The Kick or the VS fuse? (although I do have my suspicions that you control your batteries with jedi mind tricks)

 

[Baditude]

My mechanicals are gathering dust on a shelf. I prefer my 3 Provari's (occassionally my MVP). Since getting a Provari I've been spoiled by their consistancy, dependability and safety features. I prefer some Ikenvape cartos in an IBTanked cartotank for their flavor, dependability, and consistancy...no fuss vaping.

If I were to use my Silver Bullet, it would have to be Kicked for the output regulation and the protective circuitry it provides a mech. But why go through all that when I get the same thing with a variable voltage mod which is easier to use? To change the settings on the Kick, the entire mod has to be disassembled to adjust a tiny screw on the Kick. I change flavors 3 - 4 times a day, and I adjust the voltage depending upon the flavor. Too much fuss with a mechanical and Kick for me.



I've used RBA's on both Provari's and Silver Bullet. Too time-consuming and fussy (for me). One day I may revisit them, but for the time being I'm sticking with my cartotanks

I do recommend taking advantage of whatever added safety that you can add to a mechanical mod, so if you don't use a Kick, use a Vape Safe Mod Fuse. I had a protected battery explode in a mechanical mod early on in vaping (see the pic of the Trustfire above), so I only use AW IMR batteries in all of my mods.

Why Provari?

IBTanked Pyrex Cartotanks

 

[HopCloud]

Im sure this is covered somehwere, but I want your opinion Baditude - What charger is better, the eFest LUV V4 or the Nitecore? I know eFest was having voltage issues with the LUC V4 but they have told me that they have corrected the issue and are shipping corrected models out.

 

[Brennan4x4]

Im sure this is covered somehwere, but I want your opinion Baditude - What charger is better, the eFest LUV V4 or the Nitecore? I know eFest was having voltage issues with the LUC V4 but they have told me that they have corrected the issue and are shipping corrected models out.

do you have links to info about the LUC V4 and this voltage issue? I have one and would like to see this discussion. Cheers

 

[HopCloud]

do you have links to info about the LUC V4 and this voltage issue? I have one and would like to see this discussion. Cheers

Review of Charger Efest LUC V4

 

[Brennan4x4]

Review of Charger Efest LUC V4

thanks for that. do you know when the updated review was written? It looks like the first release he reviewed did not have the car charger, and his second review of the revised version does.... my LUC V4 did come with the car charger so I'm hoping mine is the new release.

thanks again.

 

[HopCloud]

thanks for that. do you know when the updated review was written? It looks like the first release he reviewed did not have the car charger, and his second review of the revised version does.... my LUC V4 did come with the car charger so I'm hoping mine is the new release.

thanks again.

Both the new and the malfunctioning models came with the car charger. The corrected models began shipping from eFest just after the new year. He did the review early/mid December 2013. Once eFest got informed of the problem, they corrected it and shipped out the new updated models. Its to my understanding that with the Japanese holiday, the new models are just now arriving stateside. I have a vendor that is waiting on his models to arrive still and he ordered right after Christmas. He said he would let me know once they are in. I hate to say it, but you may have the defective model. Contact eFest and let them know you are aware of the issue. It comes with a warranty and they should replace it for you. They have been very nice to me when I have spoken with them.

 

[Brennan4x4]

Both the new and the malfunctioning models came with the car charger. The corrected models began shipping from eFest just after the new year. He did the review early/mid December 2013. Once eFest got informed of the problem, they corrected it and shipped out the new updated models. Its to my understanding that with the Japanese holiday, the new models are just now arriving stateside. I have a vendor that is waiting on his models to arrive still and he ordered right after Christmas. He said he would let me know once they are in. I hate to say it, but you may have the defective model. Contact eFest and let them know you are aware of the issue. It comes with a warranty and they should replace it for you. They have been very nice to me when I have spoken with them.

I ordered mine in mid January this year. The vendor was out of stock and when they got their shipment in Jan I ordered it then. I'll try to contact Efest and see what's up anyway. thanks again

 

[Brennan4x4]

follow up for anyone interested about this LUC V4 .... I ordered mine in Jan 2014 and it seems to be the revised version. I have been using my DMM to test the battery's voltage and out of my four sony vtc4, after leaving them on the charger for a while even after they were fully charged, they read:

4.20v
4.21v
4.20v
4.22v