So I have my Ego V V2 and my MVP2, but I was thinking about getting into mech mods. What is the difference between all the battery sizes? What are the benefits of mech mods? And the atomizers I see on mech mods don't look like they hold much juice, seems like people only have as much as the wick will hold. Is this true?
Mech Mods
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the atomizer has nothing to do with mech mods. you see a lot of people these days running sub ohm RDA atomizers on mech mods but you could run just about anything on a mech mod. i recommend getting a cheap rebuildable and a Digital volt and ohm meter before you get a mech mod. if you dont know what your doing you could vent "explode" a battery
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...cussion/498945-my-build-ego-octopus-mini.html
^ simple RDA build.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...cussion/498945-my-build-ego-octopus-mini.html
^ simple RDA build.
Mech mods are basically setup to deliver a full voltage/full amperage blast into a low ohm coil to produce massive amounts of vapor. Altho you can make coils that reduce the vapor production, increase battery life to a degree, and get heads that are not just dripper heads ( genisis (sp?) tanks allow for mech usage without the consistant need to refill after every 5 hits). The Mech users I have talked to normally have 4-7 fully charged batteries on hand to last thru the day... something to think about. They also go thru 4-8 ml of juice a day too ( the guys I talked to... this is probably not the norm but listening to them it seems to be). Dripper heads are setup to be re juiced after several hits since the wick is the only source of juice - no tank- no pre loaded source of juice other than what you put into it once the wick runs dry. Kinda like having a tiny glass of water when you really need the MEGAMIGHTY BUBBA-KEG drink cup for all day thirst satisfaction
There are three common battery sizes for mech mods: 18650, 18500, 18350. They all operate at 3.7 volts, the primary differences between batteries being capacity (larger ones last longer) and drain (max amperage output). There is different battery chemistry or chemical makeup of these batteries. Pretty much all use Lithium ions, but the ones you want to use are IMR (which use magnesium), as they are far less likely to explode on your face than ICR, and are therefore called "safe chemistry". These are recommended for any mods, but are a must for mechs.
The benefits of mech mods are:
1. The most practical benefit is they allow you to use low-resistance atomizers you have built yourself (RBAs). In regulated mods these are detected as a short and will not fire.
2. They look really nice and have a small form factor (compared to my MVP). They're a bit bigger than Egos but they have greater battery capacity.
3. Another benefit is they are completely mechanical--no wiring, circuts, LCD/LED. The thinking is that there's far less to fail, they're essentially a battery housing with a mechanical switch and 510 threading, so they can last indefinitely.
It is not necessarily true that there is smaller capacity, as the atomizers are a separate topic. RDAs (rebuildable dripping atomizers) are very popular and are a good starting point, but there are rebuildable tank atomizers, some with even more capacity than a Protank or other comparable tanks. Additionally, since they have 510 threading, you can pop your Protanks or any 510 clearomizers on a mech mod. Most won't take Ego threading (with the threads on the outside) though.
From my experience, this is not necessarily true. I go through 2 batteries/day on a fairly heavy day. Probably use 2-4 mL of juice (which would be about a full Protank or so), and can last a good 12-20 hits after a drip. However I am definitely more conservative with my builds, I run about 1.0-1.2 ohms.
The benefits of mech mods are:
1. The most practical benefit is they allow you to use low-resistance atomizers you have built yourself (RBAs). In regulated mods these are detected as a short and will not fire.
2. They look really nice and have a small form factor (compared to my MVP). They're a bit bigger than Egos but they have greater battery capacity.
3. Another benefit is they are completely mechanical--no wiring, circuts, LCD/LED. The thinking is that there's far less to fail, they're essentially a battery housing with a mechanical switch and 510 threading, so they can last indefinitely.
It is not necessarily true that there is smaller capacity, as the atomizers are a separate topic. RDAs (rebuildable dripping atomizers) are very popular and are a good starting point, but there are rebuildable tank atomizers, some with even more capacity than a Protank or other comparable tanks. Additionally, since they have 510 threading, you can pop your Protanks or any 510 clearomizers on a mech mod. Most won't take Ego threading (with the threads on the outside) though.
From my experience, this is not necessarily true. I go through 2 batteries/day on a fairly heavy day. Probably use 2-4 mL of juice (which would be about a full Protank or so), and can last a good 12-20 hits after a drip. However I am definitely more conservative with my builds, I run about 1.0-1.2 ohms.
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All the batteries that we use in mods provide between 3.5 - 4.2 volts, but are known as 3.7 volt lithium ion batteries. Batteries size will determine the capacity in mAh (determines how long a battery will work before requiring charging). Larger batteries have more capacity, so will work longer than smaller/shorter batteries will. People like the smaller batteries for when they are out of the house as they don't have to carry a long mod around with them, but may still need to carry some spares with them to replace the spent ones.
The size will also determine it's reserve capacity in amps (rated in continuous discharge rate). This last spec is extremely important to know if using sub-ohm coils on an RBA/RDA on a mechanical mod. The lower in ohms you go, the more amps that you pull from the battery. Over-drawing a battery past its limits is extremely dangerous. Therefore, larger batteries are preferred for high amp drain applications such as an RBA.
Mod batteries are of three different chemistries: IMR & hybrid (high drain, safe chemistry), and protected ICR. IMR and hybrids are preferred in almost all applications.
The atomizers you've seen are likely RDAs, or rebuildable drip atomizers. It's true they don't hold a lot of juice, only what the wick will hold. There are rebuildable tanks (RBAs) which do hold more liquid, but many of them must be kept upright or they can leak juice. This is why they are not an ideal delivery device for out of the house and RDAs are preferred as they are not as likely to leak.
For myself, the only benefits of a mechanical over a regulated VV mod is that they can do sub-ohms while regulated mods can not because of amp limits or their protective circuitry. Some just like the looks of a mechanical mod. Some believe a mechanical mod is much more durable due to no electrical circuitry to stop working.
A mechanical mod has no built-in protection, so the best safest batteries must be used of the correct chemistry for which your application is. A Vape Safe fuse should be considered. A mechanical which uses vent holes and a collapsable hot spring is strongly preferred should a battery become too stressed and decide to vent hot gas.
Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?
Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries
The size will also determine it's reserve capacity in amps (rated in continuous discharge rate). This last spec is extremely important to know if using sub-ohm coils on an RBA/RDA on a mechanical mod. The lower in ohms you go, the more amps that you pull from the battery. Over-drawing a battery past its limits is extremely dangerous. Therefore, larger batteries are preferred for high amp drain applications such as an RBA.
Mod batteries are of three different chemistries: IMR & hybrid (high drain, safe chemistry), and protected ICR. IMR and hybrids are preferred in almost all applications.
The atomizers you've seen are likely RDAs, or rebuildable drip atomizers. It's true they don't hold a lot of juice, only what the wick will hold. There are rebuildable tanks (RBAs) which do hold more liquid, but many of them must be kept upright or they can leak juice. This is why they are not an ideal delivery device for out of the house and RDAs are preferred as they are not as likely to leak.
For myself, the only benefits of a mechanical over a regulated VV mod is that they can do sub-ohms while regulated mods can not because of amp limits or their protective circuitry. Some just like the looks of a mechanical mod. Some believe a mechanical mod is much more durable due to no electrical circuitry to stop working.
A mechanical mod has no built-in protection, so the best safest batteries must be used of the correct chemistry for which your application is. A Vape Safe fuse should be considered. A mechanical which uses vent holes and a collapsable hot spring is strongly preferred should a battery become too stressed and decide to vent hot gas.
Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?
Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries
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I won't repeat what such knowledgeable others here have told you, they gave you the straight scoop. What is it about mech mods that interests you? Why are you considering that move?
I went from EGO rigs, clearos and a Protank straight to mechs and RBA's, never looking back. I love my mechs and RBA's, that's all I use. In this these forums were of great help as were the videos on YouTube, particularly those of PBusardo. If you want something that holds a goodly amount of juice there are many attys to choose from. Just be sure you follow the advice posted above. There's a learning curve, don't take short-cuts.
Do you have a certain atomizer in mind?
What he said!!
There are no safety features in a mech mod so monitoring the battery becomes is entirely up to you.
This is particularly important. I also use my mech mod almost exclusively, but make sure you do your research first. Familiarize yourself with batteries, warning signs and what could possibly go wrong, and Ohm's Law--basically all you need to know is that current (amps) = voltage (4.2) / resistance (ohms). So if you build a 0.5 ohm coil, at 4.2V it will drain 8.4 amps. Also there are many videos on youtube which will give you a feel for building atomizers.
I also forgot to mention a very huge draw to mech mods for me personally was the freedom to build my own attys. I was concerned about the health implications of prefabricated coils and not knowing what went into their manufacture. Plus I was sick of buying replacement coils; you can build a coil for pennies. I did a lot of research and found that your best bet health-wise is probably a cotton wick build, for which you can find many tutorials on youtube. Cotton wicks need to be replaced more frequently though. Also waiting on a genesis-style atomizer from China to try out ceramic wicks.
I like the looks of many of the mechs, very sleek and seamless. I don't think they are right for me. The whole dripping every few hits is pointless because I use mine alot in the car doing deliveries. I can't be dripped every 20 hits. So I prefer a tank. I am gonna try out rebuilding the Protank coils, ordered 28,30,32 guage kanthal, 2mm, 3mm silica, and 3 mm cotton.
I recently got a couple of mechs due to low price, sleek looks, easy to use buttons, and high durability.
I run Evolv Kicks and Artisan Crowns in them with some form of tank most of the time (KayFun style my current favorite). The kick devices allow VW/VV capabilities, as well as slew of battery safety features.
This move allows me to stick with a common battery platform, yet have an assortment of mod sizes/shapes/purposes tricked out and ready to go.
Occasionally, I'll drop in a good 30 amp battery and build myself sub-ohm quad coil vape monster rig, as I have that 'option' now. It's not something I do every day however...as it is quite the juice and amperage hog.
In short, owning mechs and a variety of kick devices gives me lots of options.
I run Evolv Kicks and Artisan Crowns in them with some form of tank most of the time (KayFun style my current favorite). The kick devices allow VW/VV capabilities, as well as slew of battery safety features.
This move allows me to stick with a common battery platform, yet have an assortment of mod sizes/shapes/purposes tricked out and ready to go.
Occasionally, I'll drop in a good 30 amp battery and build myself sub-ohm quad coil vape monster rig, as I have that 'option' now. It's not something I do every day however...as it is quite the juice and amperage hog.
In short, owning mechs and a variety of kick devices gives me lots of options.
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I use panasonic 3200 mah li-ion double protected batteries (18650), I wrap my single coil about .7 ohms of resistance. I use both of these batteries up by 6pm and go through about 6-7 ml (at least) of juice per day using a RDA. I drip about 10 - 15 drops and it lasts me approximately 8 hits or so. Running it on a magneto.
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A mech will work fine with a tank, I use one with my vivi-nova and evod tanks with about 2.0-2.5 ohm coils. I get a nice full, warm and flavorful vape on a Kamry K100 Express Kit - EVcigarettes.com (they're on sale right now...
) You can use one to drip on a double, triple, fourple, fiveple coil at 0.5 ohms but it certainly not required to get clouds of vapor.
It's not necessary to drip or to use a sub-ohm coil to vape with a mech but you do need to control the heat (watts) to your coils with the fire button, just pulse it a bit if it's too hot, and if too cold, make your next coil fewer ohms.
I've also wanted to increase the amount of smoke as well. Please if you use names or brands describe what the item is. Not very literate in all things vape.
Well about the dripping thing, you don't have to use that kind of atty. You can go with many other kinds, carto-tanks, Protanks, or even RBA's like the RSST, which is a particularly fine atty for beginners. I have one and I just love it. It holds 3 ml of juice and you can vape for hours on it, no dripping required.... BUT.... it's another learning curve.
I have a dripper, but I don't use it much, other than to work up new juice mixes. Many vapers are really in love with them though, because they do deliver very good flavor and vapor.
Many mechs are indeed nice looking, simple, and rugged, and you can use a kick in them to tame them for certain attys that can't take the straight voltage they deliver. A kick is a little round green circuit board device you put in there on top of the battery and has an adjustment on it for wattage. This is a good idea of you want to use a Kanger Protank on your mech. I tried it without a kick and went through 1.8 ohm coils pretty quick.
There's a lot to know about mechs if you plan to get into them, and they may not really be for you, or they might be just the thing. Look into it
The link in my last post was for a Kamry K100, nice inexpensive mech, and you can choose a battery or two and charger from the same place (and a fuse is also a good idea). The ones they list are good quality for a mech to use with tanks at normal resistance 2 -2.5 ohm. My vivi-nova are Vision brand and I've been using 3 of them for well over a year. The Evod I picked up recently to try, since it has been talked about so much.
I want a mech that is a bit nicer. I don't want to have alot of rigs. Basically I want to buy the best/coolest one right away and not putz around.
How is the Russian 91% tank? Looks like something I may be interested in. Rebuildable and its a tank.
How is the Russian 91% tank? Looks like something I may be interested in. Rebuildable and its a tank.
I am really an e-pipe Guy. I quit tobacco years ago, but I simply miss the class of the pipe. Looking for info and, as I tinker, probably going to DIY a Holmesian style pipe
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