Hello guys! I have been searching for a good mech (tube). By good i mean a mech that hits hard. I already have the nemesis clone. Its ok but i think i can go further(it is not hybrid btw) . I recently saw the reuleaux machina. What are your thoughts on this? If you have something good to suggest with outstanding performace(a mech better than nemesis, maybe hybrid too and cheap) ill appreciate the help! Thanks a lot!
Mech tube suggestion
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Out of interest, why a hybrid (or faux hybrid if we are being accurate)? I have many and they are good, but I ask because people get sucked in thinking they “hit the hardest”. Ido t find this tbh.
Avoid the reuleaux. The switch doesn’t come apart which makes it a glorified and expensive disposable imo.
Avoid the reuleaux. The switch doesn’t come apart which makes it a glorified and expensive disposable imo.
Hi and Welcome,
What batteries are you using?
What topper are you using?
How do you build? Wire type/single-dual/target resistance?
What color/material do you want?
Budget?
Are you located in the US/CA/UK/EU/AU?
Do you want an online vendor or a local shop?
Cheers
I
Broadside Brizo!
I think maybe a hybrid is better than my nemesis. Look i dont know much about mechs, thats why i am asking help for someone that has experience with them. I dont know what is the definition for a mech that performes good, i say hits hard, but lets dont stick to the defition
I use vtc6 and ijoy for 20700. I live in greece. For resistance i use an mtl so its high ohm, or sometimes something like clapton coil on single coil deck rda. Also i prefer something cheap like a stated above, aprox 30euros.
25 watts is 25 watts.
IMO, a mech is not your best option.
Perhaps take a peek at the EHPro 101 or something like the Aspire CF 18650 device.
If you build below .5Ω take a look at the EHPro Armor (Prime).
HTH
I
If you are MTL, a faux-hybrid isn't going to make it "hit harder." The purpose of the direct battery connection is to eliminate voltage drop in the connector pin. This is not an issue in the MTL wattage range (or any other range so long as the pin is copper or silver). Your gain in voltage drop will a lot better in that regard by switching to a mod of copper construction rather than brass or stainless or aluminum, rather than the direct battery connection.
The other idea for (some of) the faux hybrid connections is to shorten the assembly and change the appearance by removing the top cap. This, of course, only works on those mods using a faux hybrid connection plate that threads down into the tube entirely. Most of them, nowadays, don't seem to bother. They just use a thinner version of the top cap with no pin assembly. I can't imagine why. Assisted suicide, maybe-- those things are IMHO dangerous-- or because that's what their customers want-- many unsophisticated mech users do-- or to save the cost of assembling a proper top cap. Who knows?
Bottom line: frankly, 30 Euro isn't going to buy a hard hitting, top of the line mod anywhere. The best mods for voltage drop are made of Sterling silver or coin metal, and are only available from custom mod makers. They will be very expensive.
Next choice is a copper mod. I have a copper Nemesis clone very much like yours and it hits harder than the stainless clone versions I also have, but not as hard as the authentic Atmomixani Nemesis in stainless I also have. (This is because the real loss of voltage in a mech mod is not in the connector pin but rather in the button/switch. A good button on a mech is what you pay for; the rest is just a piece of pipe.) Most copper mods in your price range will be made of pure (C110 or electrolytic tough pitch or ETP) copper with a very low oxygen content. That's great for electrical conductivity, but not so great for mods because C110 is, mechanically, not a good casing metal. Too easy to bend, and too hard to machine.
The best compromise I have yet found for a copper mod metal is C145 Tellurium Copper. Adding a bit of Tellurium to the alloy yields a metal with about 95% of the conductivity of C110, about 85% of the machinability of 360 brasses, and nearly double the modulus of elasticity (stiffer, harder to bend before it deforms). Unfortunately, C145 mods are also hard to come by. They're generally only available from custom mod makers who really know what they're doing and, while acres cheaper than a silver mod, are still quite high in price. Partly at least this is because C145 is not available from any foundry I know in tubing; thus most of the metal must be wasted boring the mod from solid bar. You'll not find one easily under any circumstances, unless you choose to buy new from a custom maker. People who have C145 mods usually know what they're doing and they don't sell them. Estate sale after somebody dies, maybe. I have two, both bought used; one from an estate sale as I said and the other from an idiot who didn't understand it wasn't hitting "as hard as it used to" because he never cleaned it.
I don't like the whole "minimum voltage drop, maximum hard hit" thing anyway, or not in mech mods. Better choices are available unless you are a cloud competitor who is restricted to mechs. Ask me, the best, and best looking, mechs available for everyday use are in 316 stainless-- not as chrome-y looking as 304 when polished, and simply beautiful when finished matte-- and that is the lowest conductivity of the common tube mech metals.
To make what you have hit harder, without spending much money:
1) Clean it! Take it apart and scrub it with hot soapy water and a toothbrush. Soaking it in a mildly acidic solution first will also loosen the gunk, but very mild. Use citric acid powder in water, or Coca-Cola, or ketchup-- do they use ketchup in Greece?-- or vinegar, not any kind of a strong acid. If your Nemi clone is a 1:1, the button will disassemble. Take it apart and clean it also. An electrical supply house will yield a tube of electrolytic grease, a grease than does not impede conductivity. Applying a tiny (really small, use a toothpick) amount on the button parts and the threads will make the mod "smoother" in operation and protect the joints from oxidation, which does impede conductivity.
2) Replace your button springs with magnets. FastTech sells them cheap and there are other vendors.
3) Try winding your coils .2Ω lower than normal. That will do a lot more to pick up the "hit hardness" than anything you can do with a mod. As always with a mech, be sure of your batteries and the amp loading you are putting on them before anything else.
Mod suggestions:
Within your price range, and only if you really want to upgrade, try a top-quality clone of your Nemesis in copper. You can keep it polished or let it patina-- I prefer the latter-- but this will improve overall conductivity. I don't think you'll notice a lot of harder hitting, but batteries will last a small amount longer.
The rest is going to be higher than 30 Euro, but something you may want to look at down the road. There are a number of really excellent mech mods manufactured in Greece, which may reduce your cost. Depending on what you like, I can recommend any of these to anyone:
1) While there is some variance of opinion (some, lol!), many people think the GP Paps series of mods by Vaporart have the best button feel in the business. I agree. Very nice machines.
2) Gus mods, also in Greece, makes some fine tubes. I don't have one, and won't buy one, because their button assembly contains a fuse to protect the user from an over-current condition and I think I'd blow it all the time vaping in my normal range, and because the idea of a fuse in a mech makes my head swim. Fuse? Mech? What? It's a mech or it ain't, make up your mind. But never mind the rant, they're supposed to be superior gear; I've never heard anything bad about them. The fuse isn't going to bother a low-watt MTL type.
3) Atmomixani still makes the Nemesis, and the Nemesis is still one of the best mechs ever built. Superior button, great quality, you just can't go wrong. They make it in stainless, copper and brass, mix and match, with both polished and matte surface treatments.
4) If you can find one-- they're no longer made, you'll have to buy used-- Metal Madness Vapors made the Poldiac side button and the Nanos short-throw bottom button mechs. Either one-- I have both-- are truly superior, although some think the Nanos is not as safe as it might be because of the twist-to-lock button assembly. I will confess I have set it down with the button unlocked myself, with unpleasant results. MMV used Rhodium plated silver switch parts. It doesn't get any better than that. Period. Very nice buttons, with about as little voltage loss as is technically possible this side of semiconductor electronics.
5) And the best (I think so, anyway) for last-- Fakirs mods, in Turkey rather than Greece, makes some of the best gear I personally own. Love the button and they also offer true hybrid atomizers to match their threading, none of this 510 direct to battery stuff. An FX-22 with the Troy II hybrid dripper is about as close to heaven as I think I'll ever get.
Hope all that helps some. Really, you don't need more or better gear for harder hits as you are MTL. Just wind your coils a bit lower and it'll go just fine. The harder hit, faux-hybrid stuff is for people who are already operating on the ragged edge of the safety margin anyway. You aren't anywhere close in the MTL regime.
The other idea for (some of) the faux hybrid connections is to shorten the assembly and change the appearance by removing the top cap. This, of course, only works on those mods using a faux hybrid connection plate that threads down into the tube entirely. Most of them, nowadays, don't seem to bother. They just use a thinner version of the top cap with no pin assembly. I can't imagine why. Assisted suicide, maybe-- those things are IMHO dangerous-- or because that's what their customers want-- many unsophisticated mech users do-- or to save the cost of assembling a proper top cap. Who knows?
Bottom line: frankly, 30 Euro isn't going to buy a hard hitting, top of the line mod anywhere. The best mods for voltage drop are made of Sterling silver or coin metal, and are only available from custom mod makers. They will be very expensive.
Next choice is a copper mod. I have a copper Nemesis clone very much like yours and it hits harder than the stainless clone versions I also have, but not as hard as the authentic Atmomixani Nemesis in stainless I also have. (This is because the real loss of voltage in a mech mod is not in the connector pin but rather in the button/switch. A good button on a mech is what you pay for; the rest is just a piece of pipe.) Most copper mods in your price range will be made of pure (C110 or electrolytic tough pitch or ETP) copper with a very low oxygen content. That's great for electrical conductivity, but not so great for mods because C110 is, mechanically, not a good casing metal. Too easy to bend, and too hard to machine.
The best compromise I have yet found for a copper mod metal is C145 Tellurium Copper. Adding a bit of Tellurium to the alloy yields a metal with about 95% of the conductivity of C110, about 85% of the machinability of 360 brasses, and nearly double the modulus of elasticity (stiffer, harder to bend before it deforms). Unfortunately, C145 mods are also hard to come by. They're generally only available from custom mod makers who really know what they're doing and, while acres cheaper than a silver mod, are still quite high in price. Partly at least this is because C145 is not available from any foundry I know in tubing; thus most of the metal must be wasted boring the mod from solid bar. You'll not find one easily under any circumstances, unless you choose to buy new from a custom maker. People who have C145 mods usually know what they're doing and they don't sell them. Estate sale after somebody dies, maybe. I have two, both bought used; one from an estate sale as I said and the other from an idiot who didn't understand it wasn't hitting "as hard as it used to" because he never cleaned it.
I don't like the whole "minimum voltage drop, maximum hard hit" thing anyway, or not in mech mods. Better choices are available unless you are a cloud competitor who is restricted to mechs. Ask me, the best, and best looking, mechs available for everyday use are in 316 stainless-- not as chrome-y looking as 304 when polished, and simply beautiful when finished matte-- and that is the lowest conductivity of the common tube mech metals.
To make what you have hit harder, without spending much money:
1) Clean it! Take it apart and scrub it with hot soapy water and a toothbrush. Soaking it in a mildly acidic solution first will also loosen the gunk, but very mild. Use citric acid powder in water, or Coca-Cola, or ketchup-- do they use ketchup in Greece?-- or vinegar, not any kind of a strong acid. If your Nemi clone is a 1:1, the button will disassemble. Take it apart and clean it also. An electrical supply house will yield a tube of electrolytic grease, a grease than does not impede conductivity. Applying a tiny (really small, use a toothpick) amount on the button parts and the threads will make the mod "smoother" in operation and protect the joints from oxidation, which does impede conductivity.
2) Replace your button springs with magnets. FastTech sells them cheap and there are other vendors.
3) Try winding your coils .2Ω lower than normal. That will do a lot more to pick up the "hit hardness" than anything you can do with a mod. As always with a mech, be sure of your batteries and the amp loading you are putting on them before anything else.
Mod suggestions:
Within your price range, and only if you really want to upgrade, try a top-quality clone of your Nemesis in copper. You can keep it polished or let it patina-- I prefer the latter-- but this will improve overall conductivity. I don't think you'll notice a lot of harder hitting, but batteries will last a small amount longer.
The rest is going to be higher than 30 Euro, but something you may want to look at down the road. There are a number of really excellent mech mods manufactured in Greece, which may reduce your cost. Depending on what you like, I can recommend any of these to anyone:
1) While there is some variance of opinion (some, lol!), many people think the GP Paps series of mods by Vaporart have the best button feel in the business. I agree. Very nice machines.
2) Gus mods, also in Greece, makes some fine tubes. I don't have one, and won't buy one, because their button assembly contains a fuse to protect the user from an over-current condition and I think I'd blow it all the time vaping in my normal range, and because the idea of a fuse in a mech makes my head swim. Fuse? Mech? What? It's a mech or it ain't, make up your mind. But never mind the rant, they're supposed to be superior gear; I've never heard anything bad about them. The fuse isn't going to bother a low-watt MTL type.
3) Atmomixani still makes the Nemesis, and the Nemesis is still one of the best mechs ever built. Superior button, great quality, you just can't go wrong. They make it in stainless, copper and brass, mix and match, with both polished and matte surface treatments.
4) If you can find one-- they're no longer made, you'll have to buy used-- Metal Madness Vapors made the Poldiac side button and the Nanos short-throw bottom button mechs. Either one-- I have both-- are truly superior, although some think the Nanos is not as safe as it might be because of the twist-to-lock button assembly. I will confess I have set it down with the button unlocked myself, with unpleasant results. MMV used Rhodium plated silver switch parts. It doesn't get any better than that. Period. Very nice buttons, with about as little voltage loss as is technically possible this side of semiconductor electronics.
5) And the best (I think so, anyway) for last-- Fakirs mods, in Turkey rather than Greece, makes some of the best gear I personally own. Love the button and they also offer true hybrid atomizers to match their threading, none of this 510 direct to battery stuff. An FX-22 with the Troy II hybrid dripper is about as close to heaven as I think I'll ever get.
Hope all that helps some. Really, you don't need more or better gear for harder hits as you are MTL. Just wind your coils a bit lower and it'll go just fine. The harder hit, faux-hybrid stuff is for people who are already operating on the ragged edge of the safety margin anyway. You aren't anywhere close in the MTL regime.
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Since you MTL and have a Nemi, I suggest looking for a Kick II (clone if they are still made) if your Nemi came with a kick ring (short extension). Now this will turn it from a mech to adjustable but with higher resistance, you'll see a performance difference.
Then you could go with a Noisy Cricket or or a Tesla Invader III (not a mech, though). These are the only 2 things I can think of that will get you more power. In high resistance, a series (stacked) mod will do what you want but they are beasts and safety is very important.
Mooch tested the machina and iirc its volt drop was embarrassing compared to the other mods tested (could have something to do with the big cutouts they made in the body). So if you're looking for something that hits hard then you can forget about that one.
Look out for copper or brass tubes, those seem to perform the best (but will need more cleaning of contact points/threads).
Look out for copper or brass tubes, those seem to perform the best (but will need more cleaning of contact points/threads).
Hardest hitting are my pure silver Pilak's from 2JNT, they are the hardest and smoothest Mod's I own (a pure work of art) but are expensive. Best bang for the buck with outstanding quality and performance are the Kennedy's. Another great Tube is the Squape Mecanic, I really enjoy that one allot also.
But for 30 Euro's, you're not going to find much for that price range. You will need to set your budget for a bit over 100 Euro's.
But for 30 Euro's, you're not going to find much for that price range. You will need to set your budget for a bit over 100 Euro's.
Is there a reason you want a mech given your wattage and nicotine levels? For one, you could just switch to freebase nicotine, that hits plenty hard. You could get a more powerful MTL device, that might give you more options than you have now.
If you want to MTL a mech (given your current preference) you are going to have to be really looking at the right battery and the right build for MTL, and even then I'm not entirely sure why you would select a mech but if you do get a hybrid for safety probably. Your build and battery are going to determine what you get, so you will need a MTL RDA with a fairly high ohm's build. If you use a mega "hard hitting" battery with a very high rating, I am going to guess that you won't like the experience. You need to learn ohm's law as you decide and select your build, and I'm fairly certain given where you are in your vaping experience you may not be ready for a mech, you may not enjoy it, and it might be wiser to look at some regulated MTL options more powerful than you have now but that will give you the "hit" you seek.
Good luck,
Anna
If you want to MTL a mech (given your current preference) you are going to have to be really looking at the right battery and the right build for MTL, and even then I'm not entirely sure why you would select a mech but if you do get a hybrid for safety probably. Your build and battery are going to determine what you get, so you will need a MTL RDA with a fairly high ohm's build. If you use a mega "hard hitting" battery with a very high rating, I am going to guess that you won't like the experience. You need to learn ohm's law as you decide and select your build, and I'm fairly certain given where you are in your vaping experience you may not be ready for a mech, you may not enjoy it, and it might be wiser to look at some regulated MTL options more powerful than you have now but that will give you the "hit" you seek.
Good luck,
Anna
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