Mechanical mod burning finger

[yppan]

i have a nemesis from atmomixani

the button on the end is becoming hot. too hot too touch, sometimes.. it is burning my finger. I think it is a grounding issue. the spring on the end was loose, is this going to be dangerous to use? I don't want it to explode in my face. Placing both feet firmly on the ground seems to eliminate the issue. while using both hands, makes me think it is a grounding issue. a short of some kind... please help me to know if this will be dangerous to use.

 

[edyle]

Does it get hot by itself or when you press the button?

 

[k702]

Take it apart and clean it. Use some alcohol and get the threads (especially around the switch) nice and clean then make sure the inside of the switch is cleaned out along with the spring.

Past that all I could think of that would make it get hot is a problem with the battery or the atomizer you're using.. But I'd clean it up first.

 

[sonicbomb]

I suggest you are getting micro-arcing in the switch or the surrounding threads. Try applying some Noalox or a similar product.

 

[yppan]

Does it get hot by itself or when you press the button?

When I press the button.

Take it apart and clean it. Use some alcohol and get the threads (especially around the switch) nice and clean then make sure the inside of the switch is cleaned out along with the spring.

Past that all I could think of that would make it get hot is a problem with the battery or the atomizer you're using.. But I'd clean it up first.

I noticed there is some black gunk around the 510 threading, tried to clean it out with water but it isn't working. Going to have to wait until I get some everclear I guess and soak it in that overnight. Could this be causing the problem?

 

[k702]

Edited. Not just the 510 the button itself when you take it apart will likely be nasty.


The gunk on the 510 connection could be juice that has collected there...

 

[edyle]

When I press the button.



I noticed there is some black gunk around the 510 threading, tried to clean it out with water but it isn't working. Going to have to wait until I get some everclear I guess and soak it in that overnight. Could this be causing the problem?

gunk on the threading introduces extra resistance, and causes your mod to get hot especially with low ohm coils.

How long have you been using that mod?

 

[rum87mage]

make sure u dry that off well what ohm you running and what bat whats the constant amps on the bat if you using a 10 amp bat on a .5 coil or something that the problem
to stop micro arching i use Amazon.com: CRC SL35903 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricating Compound - 16 wt. oz.: Automotive
its copper grease more conductive then noalox and dosent dry up like noalox does but dirt is bad you have to clean the mod about once a month is you using it alot and switching bats alot dust and grim build up stoping it from getting a good connection

http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/333994_LT6734.pdf

 

[yppan]

I'm running 0.93 ohms on a single coil. The battery says 35A on it.

Are these not compatible?

 

[classwife]

Moved to Mechmods from E-Cigarette Technical Issues

 

[Baditude]

I'm running 0.93 ohms on a single coil. The battery says 35A on it.

Are these not compatible?

You're fine with a 0.9 ohm build with that battery. However, there are no 18650 batteries with more than 30 amps continuous discharge rate.

If you're using the purple Efest 18650 2500mah 35 amp battery, it is REALLY only a 20 amp battery (continuous discharge rate). That battery is a re-wrapped LG18650HE2 which LG says is 20 amps continuous. The lowest coil build you should use with that battery is 0.3 ohms, and that's with no safe headroom figured in. You are also putting a lot of faith into your ohm reader being precisely accurate.

Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised

Battery Basics for Mods <--- list of IMR batteries with authentic specifications

Explain It to the Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations

 

[Kaoself]

I'm running 0.93 ohms on a single coil. The battery says 35A on it.

Are these not compatible?

Not sure what the battery is or how good it is; but yes, more than compatible.
That's only a 4.5 amp draw at 0.93 ohms.

 

[yppan]

I love the purple Efest batterys! ha

 

[Baditude]

I love the purple Efest batterys! ha

They are decent batteries, however be aware that the amp specs are not as advertised. Important to know should you sub-ohm.

 

[cryx]

Yes OP, this a shorting issue. A mod should never be more than slightly warm to the touch. Something is causing an excessive discharge rate and heating up the battery and mod. I'd recommend safely discarding the battery because it's likely been damaged.

As an engineer I look for the simplest answer. First ensure there's no damage, ie. tears, to the battery casing that may cause short with the tube. Make sure there's nothing conductive between the center pin and the threads like a small piece of kanthal. Are you perhaps using a hybrid cap? If yes, make sure the center pin is extended at least 1mm. It's possible the 510 threads are arcing. You may be this >< close to a hard short which will ruin your day. In the absence of reverse threading, screwing a mod together can cause a center pin to retract. Placing a few o-rings under the pin, or a few wraps of dental floss, may prevent this.

Last but not least, make sure you aren't inserting your batteries upside down - negative goes to switch. I once inserted a flat top upside down in the dark. The delrin on the hyrid top cap only encased the 510 hole. It must have arced from the outside edges of the battery's negative end to the top cap because on the 3rd vape I nearly blistered my finger and threw the mod on the floor. It takes one close encounter with a short before learning true appreciation and caution with your mod... Good luck.

 

[yppan]

There is no visible damage to the battery. When you say i'm this >< close to a hard short do you mean something like this? That would ruin my day! Should I go to the vape shop and ask if they sold me a bad battery? It only gets hot occasionally and it's not very hot.

I am also having trouble screwing the mod together all the way. It's as if the battery is too big for the mod. It won't close all the way. Any suggestions or advice? I want it to look flush.

 

[TKS]

I suggest you are getting micro-arcing in the switch or the surrounding threads. Try applying some Noalox or a similar product.

This is probably the culprit. But never ever apply Noalox or any sort of conductive agent within parts that rub along axis with one another. Main reason being is the little particles will cause premature wear on the threads. Especially copper.

The best thing to do would be. Take the whole thing apart. Toss it all into an ultrasonic with distiller water and leave for a 5 minute cycle. If you lack an ultra sonic. Take anything like a Q tip and dip in 99% ISO propyl alcohol and just go over all the threads till you see no black residue. Likewise with the contacts to and from the battery.

After that is done make sure everything is fully dried (very easy since alcohol at 99% has intense vapor pressure and will evaporate VERY fast). Then you can take some frog lube and apply around the threads and all over them and leave for around 30-60 mins and then wipe down. Make sure to not apply much anywhere where you can't reach with a microfiber cloth in some way. Also the reason you want to leave it in for an hour almost is because it will naturally remove and dip into metal micro pores to get rid of the last bits of oxides. You can then go over the threads once more with an alcohol tip or you can skip this step. Then take the frog lube and apply a VERY thin layer in and on the threads and leave for like 5 mins and wipe any excess away so nothing is visibly flowing when you screw the button or the top cap together.

Also clean the tips of your battery with alcohol as well to remove any oxide pitting. Don't go crazy with this and some are deep pits from intense subohming and micro arching. Let dry fully. Do the same with the atomisers and 510 connection from both sides if your mod uses one. Finally apply deoxit or noalox to the 510 connector. Make sure to do this in such a small amount where you almost can't see it but only a reflection can expose that it's still there. From here you can follow manufacurers recommendations. Either let the thing dry (this might take very long. Or just touch is with some cloth to take just a hair of any liquid off. Then assemble your build and you should be good to go.

I gararantee you won't have any hot button issues if you follow this instruction. It's annoying I guess, but it will prolong the life of your mod and keep it in tip top order provided it isn't wrecked and the threads aren't already trashed up. The frog lube won't be required for weeks again. But depending how low you build, alcohol application to the battery and the button and 510 connection might be a weekly to monthly thing if you want to be hot button free.

 

[TKS]

I am also having trouble screwing the mod together all the way. It's as if the battery is too big for the mod. It won't close all the way. Any suggestions or advice? I want it to look flush.

There is no way. It's as you say. Thr only thing is, the battery is fine, it's just the atomisers' 510 threading goes to far. This was done a lot back in the day for hybrid mods that needed atomisers with longer threads. Nowadays it's stupid long and half of my atomisers won't sit flush as well.

Even some adjustable 510's won't go down low enough to have the atty sit flush. Biggest failure of non standardization in the vaping industry if you ask me when pertaining to deminsions.

 

[duc916]

The Nemesis has a lot of threading in its current path, which is the downside to having compatibility with 18350/18500/18650 batteries. Anywhere metal meets metal (with air sandwiched in between) is going to have oxidation, adding resistance to your final battery load. Instead of your battery seeing a 1 ohm load from your coil, maybe it's seeing 2 ohms once it passes through your topcap/mod/switch. That added resistance results in heat where you don't want it.

The Nemesis switch is an old wonky/crunchy design that needs to be kept clean, and your description of the problem sounds like that is where your problem is. You definitely want to disassemble and fully clean it, then use a proper lube, everywhere metal meets metal in the current path. I wouldn't worry about surface wear from any lube. Removing the crunch from that switch will prolong its life compared to the dry, scraping that goes on in the Nemesis switch without it. As always, I recommend Ox-Gard. Several people in this thread cured their hot buttons with it:
SMPL Mod-Help | Page 2 | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[yppan]

OK so an update on my mod. Today I was attempting to clean the thing by disassembling it entirely. When I was removing the lock ring/switch to access the threads for cleaning, while putting it back on the threads became "cross threaded" I thought I may have put it back on backwards or something. I went through something similair to what was described here. I couldn't get it off so I am going to get a new tube. Problem is, I no longer have a lock ring. Can I still use the switch without a lock ring? I think I read somewhere else that that would work. Is there going to be a huge difference between the tube I had before (I believe was stainless steel) and the "Anodized Tube" colored replacements? (which are said to be aluminum) I saw something about a voltage drop on youtube. That is really unfortunate, I like high voltage!