So long as the aluminum threaded contact points aren't anodized then you should be completely fine, aluminum is more conductive than stainless steel for the same sized piece of material, if anything...performance should improve so long as the threads aren't anodized as most anodizing is NOT electrically conductive.
Mechanical mod burning finger
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I have been having this issue as well. I run a SMPL mod, and im pretty sure its not shorts. The battery itself does not get hot or warm, and I run 0.2-0.4 coils on a vtc4. yet the button gets hot sometimes which im guessing is because the battery is arcing to the switch. it has been getting worse over time so i just stopped using those mech mods now. I also have these black specs on the botton of the battery in the circular shape of where the bottom switch contacts the battery when pushed. It looks like a circular ring, and people have suggested it was carbon buildup from arcing - yet I tried to rub it off, ive even gone as far as try to lightly scrub it off with one of the abrasive dishwashing sponges, and it wont come off.
the battery still works in my regulated devices, but the longer I used them in my mech mods the more black buildup I couldnt remove, so i completely stopped using my mechs as of the past couple days =\
the battery still works in my regulated devices, but the longer I used them in my mech mods the more black buildup I couldnt remove, so i completely stopped using my mechs as of the past couple days =\
You get some wiggleroom/adjustment from the bottom cap threading; take the bottom cap off, screw up everything else, then thread on the bottom cap until it meets the battery.
Oxidation of your switch is causing arcing... Read the remainder of this thread starting here:
SMPL Mod-Help | Page 2 | E-Cigarette Forum
I'm assuming my nemesis isn't genuine if the threads got all crappy and locked on me. Also I looked at this post the loop on the b doesn't touch. So I haven't really lost anything irreplaceable here right? It was gifted to me by a friend... I thought it was real so i nearly cried but the more I think about it, it probably isn't real.
By using the mod without the lock ring it will look ugly.. but I should have less resistance right? less parts = less resistance
By using the mod without the lock ring it will look ugly.. but I should have less resistance right? less parts = less resistance
Functionally, I wouldn't get too hung up whether it's real or authentic... but if you were scammed into paying for an authentic and got a clone, that's something else. The switch in the Nemesis clones are copies of an authentically bad design. 
I've had several Nemesis clones that worked great with routine preventive maintenance, but neglect a Nemesis and it will let you know it. Your hot button woes will not be cured by removing the lock ring.
I've had several Nemesis clones that worked great with routine preventive maintenance, but neglect a Nemesis and it will let you know it. Your hot button woes will not be cured by removing the lock ring.
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Update #2 The tube i got is too small for my 18650. It says its a tube for 18490. Where Can I find these?
Here is a pic, stuff next to it for scale.
Here is a pic, stuff next to it for scale.
I got one of these batteries
its too big for my tube by about 1 cm
is there a difference between 18500 and 18490? a 1cm difference? It still fits but damn it looks ....ed up.
its too big for my tube by about 1 cm
is there a difference between 18500 and 18490? a 1cm difference? It still fits but damn it looks ....ed up.
I have the same issue with my Magneto. Lots of threads = lots of cleaning.
Yep. Unscrew the round contact pin from the switch (careful not to lose the tiny rice pin in there), drop a microcoil down the hole, screw the contact pin back in.
Here we go:
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