Mechanical Mod Maintenance & Tips
- Thread starter yvaiwhy
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I basically do the soap and water thing for all my mechs. Then I dry and go over with high percentage alcohol.
I only use abrasives such as Autosol on used/ older new gear to clean up surface scuffs etc. Im always worried that if I use abrasives too much, that I will wear them out?
I use a conductive gel (NO-OX-ID) on my devices that squeak or are not as fine threaded. Its always a toss up, sometimes keeps things good for a longer time, on some devices seems the threads get dirtier?
I use brass cleaner on brass bits. Found this stuff when I searched for cutlery safe brass cleaner, figured if its safe on forks , spoons etc, its safe on our stuff. Its easy to use and rinses off and doesnt leave a strong smell: Weiman Brass Polish.
Sometimes if im in a good mood I use gun wax for a shiny look. I have cape cods, but was told to be careful by some modders as they can wear off logos and other engraved decor.
I like to use alcohol on 510 areas often.
I only use abrasives such as Autosol on used/ older new gear to clean up surface scuffs etc. Im always worried that if I use abrasives too much, that I will wear them out?
I use a conductive gel (NO-OX-ID) on my devices that squeak or are not as fine threaded. Its always a toss up, sometimes keeps things good for a longer time, on some devices seems the threads get dirtier?
I use brass cleaner on brass bits. Found this stuff when I searched for cutlery safe brass cleaner, figured if its safe on forks , spoons etc, its safe on our stuff. Its easy to use and rinses off and doesnt leave a strong smell: Weiman Brass Polish.
Sometimes if im in a good mood I use gun wax for a shiny look. I have cape cods, but was told to be careful by some modders as they can wear off logos and other engraved decor.
I like to use alcohol on 510 areas often.
I used to be all about Ox-Gard for mech threads and would recommend it here constantly, but I've since converted to DeoxIT. I've been using the red stuff D100L , 100% concentrate in a 25ml needle bottle. That stuff is awesome. Clean and long lasting, doesn't cake up like Ox-Gard does. My SMPL is more of a beast than ever because of it. The internals of the SMPL switch love this stuff, but I'm not one to recommend something like this unless I see data that proves its worth. What was more shocking was what I saw on some other electronics devices that I could actually measure. On a portable USB power bank (Anker 26800maH) that I carry everywhere, whenever I charged it, the charging current used to top out around 1.4 amps, with the current jumping around any time the cable was touched/wiggled, etc. After putting a tiny drop of DeoxIT in its micro-USB charging port, it's been rock solid at 2 amps. 
Don't try that with lithium grease.
The next time my car's crank position sensor craps out (went through 3 of them in the last 10 years) I'm definitely gonna try this stuff first.
Don't try that with lithium grease. The next time my car's crank position sensor craps out (went through 3 of them in the last 10 years) I'm definitely gonna try this stuff first.
Attachments
Last edited:
Soap, water, dry. Then I use a q-tip with 91% alcohol to clean 510, threads, contacts, etc. The I use a dab of NO-OX-ID (got a HUGE tube of this stuff I can pass to my great great grand-kids).
On atties with orings (or any orings) I use Bert's Bee Wax lip balm on a q-tip to make them smoove
Also, on my Provaris I use a white eraser to polish up the brass 510 - a trick pass down from the sages of the time and still works flawlessly.
On atties with orings (or any orings) I use Bert's Bee Wax lip balm on a q-tip to make them smoove
Also, on my Provaris I use a white eraser to polish up the brass 510 - a trick pass down from the sages of the time and still works flawlessly.
Soap, water, dry. Then I use a q-tip with 91% alcohol to clean 510, threads, contacts, etc. The I use a dab of NO-OX-ID (got a HUGE tube of this stuff I can pass to my great great grand-kids).
On atties with orings (or any orings) I use Bert's Bee Wax lip balm on a q-tip to make them smoove
Also, on my Provaris I use a white eraser to polish up the brass 510 - a trick pass down from the sages of the time and still works flawlessly.
You have some unusual tips but I'll try them out, specially the bees wax on the o-rings [emoji4]
2+2=5 [emoji102]
I stole that from watching Qorax videos - he does this with all orings
I stole that from watching Qorax videos - he does this with all orings
Oh well, I'm pretty sure that's a better option than having to put some juice on them rings every once in a while [emoji23]
2+2=5 [emoji102]
It's been a while since I posted anything here but thinking this might help I thought I'd share it here.
You know how the tube get all scratched up and dirty and what a pain it can be to polish them out? Right, my first thought was to get a special too which is made for that. But then I thought, why waste money when we can simply get away buying a screw, a couple of washers and a nut of the same thread to get the same results? So I went down to a hardware store, bought them and took a drill and this is the end result. I'm not trying to dis the 510 cleaning tool in anyway or not do I have anything against the manufacturers of them, I'm just sharing a cost efficient way of getting things done.
For this particular mod, I took the firing pin off and set the screw (head inside the tube with a washer, threw on another washer under the switch housing and tightened the nut where the button goes in. Yes I'm too lazy to post all those pictures here but then again if you keep mechanical mods in use you should be able to figure it out already.
As for the cap, there are two ways you can do that. One way is to put the cap on the atty and screw it into the top hat to polish. The second method is the one I prefer because I had a fresh build on the deck and trust me, you don't want metal polish to get into the coil through the air holes which seems inevitable.
Go crazy [emoji1317]
2+2=5 [emoji102]
You know how the tube get all scratched up and dirty and what a pain it can be to polish them out? Right, my first thought was to get a special too which is made for that. But then I thought, why waste money when we can simply get away buying a screw, a couple of washers and a nut of the same thread to get the same results? So I went down to a hardware store, bought them and took a drill and this is the end result. I'm not trying to dis the 510 cleaning tool in anyway or not do I have anything against the manufacturers of them, I'm just sharing a cost efficient way of getting things done.
For this particular mod, I took the firing pin off and set the screw (head inside the tube with a washer, threw on another washer under the switch housing and tightened the nut where the button goes in. Yes I'm too lazy to post all those pictures here but then again if you keep mechanical mods in use you should be able to figure it out already.
As for the cap, there are two ways you can do that. One way is to put the cap on the atty and screw it into the top hat to polish. The second method is the one I prefer because I had a fresh build on the deck and trust me, you don't want metal polish to get into the coil through the air holes which seems inevitable.
Go crazy [emoji1317]
2+2=5 [emoji102]
- Status
