Mechanical Mods....
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Ok so if I'm understanding correctly one just can't detect a large difference in the vape experience across the voltage drop on a mechanical mod? That seems to run against what I've experienced with basic VV where often a few tenths of a volt up or down is noticeable in vapor production, flavor, and/or throat hit (like eGo Twist and Vivi Nova or Boge SR carto). But I have no experience with mechanicals or RBAs, so no frame of reference.
So with a 1.0 Ohm coil, if I'm doing this right, the power range is 16W to 11.6W, with half the time spent between 14 W and 12.3 W. That still seems like a big range, but like you are saying in practice it must be OK or people wouldn't be so enamored with the unregulated mechanical mods and very low resistance coils - especially considering they cost more than the common regulated units like the Vamo.
Is it the thicker wire used to get the low resistance coils produces a more consistent temperature output across the wider power range than the thinner wire used in the standard resistance heads (that then makes the standard resistance coils more power sensitive)?
Or again are the mechanical fans just putting up with more variation because they have to in order to get the low resistance vape they want while it is in the sweet spot (i.e. they put up with the rest because the sweet spot is so good)?
At 1.0 Ohm, 4.0 V is 16.0 W
3.9 is 15.2
3.8 is 14.4
3.7 is 13.7
3.6 is 13.0
3.5 is 12.3
3.4 is 11.6
A few tenths of a volt may matter on a cotton wick set up since the heat is concentrated on the coil. With a ss mesh wick, a lot of heat is transferred to the wick, and the difference is much less noticeable: say a 4W difference, instead of being on a tiny coil making a difference T in temperature, now gets evenly distributed and makes only T/n difference, with n being weight of wick+coil/weight of coil. (extremely rough calculation just for demonstration purposes). N is very large, as you can imagine. So T/n is substantially smaller than T.
I would say much more than half the time is spent in the sweet spot, at least 80%. Like i said, you have to factor in that at higher voltage, capacity is drained faster, so the difference in time is much more than what is perceived from the chart you posted.
Also keep in mind that you can determine the range of variance just by choosing when to stop vaping and charge your battery.
This is wayyy too much physics for someone who has stopped doing physics.
Not sure if it was mentioned, but, you'd probably end up switching batteries and throwing them back on the charger every 10 mins or so when playing around with SLR gennies to keep the voltage in the sweet spot.
3.7v @ 1ohm = 3.7 amps. A 18650 2000mAh battery will run down in about half an hour with continuous push, probably less. 18350 is only rated 700mAh roughly 10 mins continuous. Depending on your vape pace, tolerance for voltage drop, battery health, etc, you might just have to keep cycling through batteries.
It's fun to do when you're just sitting at your desk, but not very practical for everyday carry.
3.7v @ 1ohm = 3.7 amps. A 18650 2000mAh battery will run down in about half an hour with continuous push, probably less. 18350 is only rated 700mAh roughly 10 mins continuous. Depending on your vape pace, tolerance for voltage drop, battery health, etc, you might just have to keep cycling through batteries.
It's fun to do when you're just sitting at your desk, but not very practical for everyday carry.
I saw this same remark on another thread, and since I have several cheap LED flashlights that worked for a week and then quit, I'd be kinda interested in giving this a try. One in particular would look pretty cool. Is it possible to replace the bulb with a 510 connect without being a machinist or an electrician? Anyone care to offer a brief tutorial? Thanks!
Thanks kanj.nguyen,
It does make sense that more of the heat from the coil would be absorbed by the wick with steel mesh wick as opposed to silica wick.
It does make sense that more of the heat from the coil would be absorbed by the wick with steel mesh wick as opposed to silica wick.
Good info. I was wondering about that too i.e. How practical are the very low resistance setups from a daily carry perspective? I'm personally less interested in what one can do at home in "lab conditions" than what can be loaded-up and taken out for the day's activities, and that is part of what I'm trying to get to the bottom of - are these very low resistance setups practical or more for fun/conversation (at least right now).
A good quality battery like an AW IMR stays at 3.7volts for a good while, even with low resistance setups. Not for carrying with you all day of course, but you are definitively not changing batteries every 10 minutes either. Not by a long shot. 
I got The Curve from inhaler. It's a nice SS mechanical mad with brass top and end caps . I got it for $115. I think it's going for $130 now though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRkuDvCSAD8
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A good quality battery like an AW IMR stays at 3.7volts for a good while, even with low resistance setups. Not for carrying with you all day of course, but you are definitively not changing batteries every 10 minutes either. Not by a long shot.
I'm sure you don't HAVE to change the battery every 10 mins, it's just something I do to keep the vape consistent. I really like that fresh battery feel.
Just my numbers. 700mAh/3700mA*60min/hr*60sec/min= 681 seconds. Divide that by 10 sec per "puff/inhale/whatever" that I do average = 68 puffs if I were to run that 18350 battery down. If I'm just sitting on my desk, I just throw the battery back in the charger, and put in a fresh one when I feel a dropoff.
An 18650 would give me 194 puffs with the same calculation, which would last a good while, but there's still that pocket friendliness issue that gennies lack. As far as portability goes, I've found that genesis style is not very pocket friendly. They remain, my at home rigs.
Your mileage may vary, of course.
YMMV indeed. I bring a genesis to work once in a while, but it's usually not what I use for out and about, there a Reo VV really shines.
As an engineer "seeing the math" really helps. Thanks.
And this assumes that the entire 700mAh is available above your "good vape" cut-off voltage. If that were say 3.5V then some fraction of the number of puffs would be below that and you'd have to reduce the total number of "good vape" puffs. I'm going to wrap my head around this eventually with all of you guy's help.
just make sure when you use a vivi nova or a carto, that they are low ohms. thats really all their is too it with mechanicals.
however, rebuildables and mechanicals go together like bread and butter. just my 2 cents. hahaha
however, rebuildables and mechanicals go together like bread and butter. just my 2 cents. hahaha
i kind of want to give the legacy a try. if i like it then i can get a kick and turn it up a notch.
I had vv devices for very long time but after i got my first WORKING mechanical mod they started to get dust.. After first mechanical mod i got my first WORKING rba. Now hitting 0.6-0.8 ohm coils and the vapour and flavour is just unbeliveable. Ofcourse i still got my pinky provari but i think it's going for sale soon..
yeah, i want to get into rba's too. i went to electrician school and that is like childs play to me. i might as well get a solid vape since i have the knowledge. i'd rather have a small vape that is durable that i can tweak myself instead of a big light saber with a screen. i don't want to carry that in my pocket and pull it out at work and have to worry about dropping it or getting food on it or whatever. (i'm a cook)
Most RBA's aren't very practical for pocket use, for your work you would be much better off with a quality cartotank with a 1.5ohm carto, or even better, a Reo, which you can use with bottomfed RBA's .
i really dont like regulated mods mainly because i run RBAs and i like to keep my ohms roughly around .8 ohms. most regulated mods wont even fire that so ill be forced to go to a 1.2 which is alright.. just my opinion
Most RBA's aren't very practical for pocket use, for your work you would be much better off with a quality cartotank with a 1.5ohm carto, or even better, a Reo, which you can use with bottomfed RBA's .
that's kind of why i haven't pulled the trigger on one yet. that and i'm waiting to see if i can get my hands on a billet box. it's small and durable it seems. even though it isn't mechanical.
i don't know anything about bottom feeders. do you squeeze them everytime you want to take a pull? are they easy to floor or burn?
damn man, now you just got me looking at reos. they mini is TINY. i'll probably just get one of those. the "squanking" doesn't sound like that big of a deal.
i just want something that's better than my inferno vapor wise and i can just throw it in my pocket and isn't bigger than an altoids box or around that size.
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