Mechanical reos will be seeing some upgrades

[patrao_n]

I have a .3 ohm 22 gage

coil waiting to fire on my reo as soon as I get a kit! Rob thank you again for doing this official upgrade for us. We all appreciate your testing and production of these sub ohm kits.

Sent from my SM-N900T

 

[B2L]

I have a .3 ohm 22 gage

coil waiting to fire on my reo as soon as I get a kit! Rob thank you again for doing this official upgrade for us. We all appreciate your testing and production of these sub ohm kits.

Sent from my SM-N900T

Oooohhhh, nice coil! Did you make that out of a coat hanger?

 

[patrao_n]

Yes. Yes I did. 22 gage kanthal coat hanger lol. I figured I might as well stop triple and quad twisting 28 gage and just go to a bigger diameter wire. I havent built my other mechs with it yet. Reo comes first.

Sent from my SM-N900T

 

[B2L]

I just got some 24 to play with, let me know how you like the 22.

 

[patrao_n]

I couldn't find 24 at temco. Seemed they didn't stock it. Where did you buy yours from?

Sent from my SM-N900T

 

[B2L]

The vape Mesh Company.

 

[zmauls]

I have a .3 ohm 22 gage

coil waiting to fire on my reo as soon as I get a kit! Rob thank you again for doing this official upgrade for us. We all appreciate your testing and production of these sub ohm kits.

Sent from my SM-N900T

I'll let you know right now, that's not going to work. You'll be lucky if you can get 1 full hit between squonking, but, judging by your wraps to ohmage ratio, that is a micro coil, and because of the limited amount of cotton you'll be able to pull through that diameter, it's going to heat up way too fast for you to get a decent pull. Try less wraps around a bigger diameter and aim for the same ohmage.

Also, I hope you're prepared to drill your air hole out to at least 7/64" with that low of a reading.

Source: Exclusively sub-ohm for almost a year now.

 

[BlueSnake]

Yes. Yes I did. 22 gage kanthal coat hanger lol. I figured I might as well stop triple and quad twisting 28 gage and just go to a bigger diameter wire. I havent built my other mechs with it yet. Reo comes first.

Sent from my SM-N900T

Serious question. Won't that create a terribly hot vape that will eat through the battery power? I really don't know about this low sub ohm stuff. Just trying to understand. Thanks

 

[Bigflyrodder]

abort mission, commander....

Drats!!!!!!!

 

[Bigflyrodder]

Serious question. Won't that create a terribly hot vape that will eat through the battery power? I really don't know about this low sub ohm stuff. Just trying to understand. Thanks

Well, both are true for sure plus without sufficient airflow there is no reason to go below 1.0-1.3 or so. As someone above suggest one would indeed need to drill out the RDA. As I have no experiece with the RM2 I can't tell you how hard that would be, with an Igo-L it would be no problem but the heat is pretty intense in that little chamber.

Just my $.02 and my opinion based solely on sub ohm vaping not with a Reo as I don't have one yet.

Edit: The sub ohm without airflow isn't exactly true. You get a differnt more intense flavor, the airflow really has to do with vapor production but the RDA can get hot as (bleeeeeeeep).

 

[B2L]

Serious question. Won't that create a terribly hot vape that will eat through the battery power? I really don't know about this low sub ohm stuff. Just trying to understand. Thanks

I've gone as low as .4 without the vape, IMO, becoming uncomfortably hot but it certainly does eat up battery power.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

The RM2 is plated brass so it's very easy to drill

 

[zmauls]

Well, both are true for sure plus without sufficient airflow there is no reason to go below 1.0-1.3 or so. As someone above suggest one would indeed need to drill out the RDA. As I have no experiece with the RM2 I can't tell you how hard that would be, with an Igo-L it would be no problem but the heat is pretty intense in that little chamber.

Just my $.02 and my opinion based solely on sub ohm vaping not with a Reo as I don't have one yet.

Edit: The sub ohm without airflow isn't exactly true. You get a differnt more intense flavor, the airflow really has to do with vapor production but the RDA can get hot as (bleeeeeeeep).

This is my 0.20Ω build. I like a warm vape, and I have both sides of my RM2 drilled out to 9/64". With those air holes the vape is still very warm.

Edit: You are also correct about the chamber size. The air holes on an RM2 need to be bigger than they would on a 22mm or 19mm atty of the same ohmage.

 

[beckdg]

Well, both are true for sure plus without sufficient airflow there is no reason to go below 1.0-1.3 or so. As someone above suggest one would indeed need to drill out the RDA. As I have no experiece with the RM2 I can't tell you how hard that would be, with an Igo-L it would be no problem but the heat is pretty intense in that little chamber.

Just my $.02 and my opinion based solely on sub ohm vaping not with a Reo as I don't have one yet.

Edit: The sub ohm without airflow isn't exactly true. You get a differnt more intense flavor, the airflow really has to do with vapor production but the RDA can get hot as (bleeeeeeeep).

once you've drilled out an igo, the RM2 is like cutting through hot butter with a light saber.

 

[patrao_n]

Well it's wrapped around a .078" mandrel. I have wrapped a quad this small of diameter before. Thanks for the heads up though.

Sent from my SM-N900T

 

[patrao_n]

Also I will be opening the airhole more than it is now. I have loads of atomizers now for the reo. And if I mess up the cap or go too big then I can always order another from rob.

Sent from my SM-N900T

 

[zmauls]

Also I will be opening the airhole more than it is now. I have loads of atomizers now for the reo. And if I mess up the cap or go too big then I can always order another from rob.

Sent from my SM-N900T

Yep, I think I have 8 caps. I use three of them.

0.078"... My 3/32"s translate to .094". You are using 22G, so it will take slightly longer to heat up. You may be on solid ground. Good luck, vaping is a trial and error process. I hope it works for you.

Edit: When you said "quad," did you mean a quad-twisted wire coil? Because if so, that thing is going to have taken much longer to heat up than a single strand of 22G, despite the similar ohmage.

 

[patrao_n]

Yeah I twisted 4 28 gage wires together. Couple of primer puffs and it was. A good vape. Also found out that the cool was hiding Juice. When I dry burned the coil it would whistle because of trapped eliquid im the wraps. It was a trip. That coil was wrapped for a different mech though. Didn't want to melt the button . also the lag time is why I wanted to do 22 gage.

Sent from my SM-N900T

 

[zmauls]

Yeah I twisted 4 28 gage wires together. Couple of primer puffs and it was. A good vape. Also found out that the cool was hiding Juice. When I dry burned the coil it would whistle because of trapped eliquid im the wraps. It was a trip. That coil was wrapped for a different mech though. Didn't want to melt the button . also the lag time is why I wanted to do 22 gage.

Sent from my SM-N900T

Been there brother, I used to love my dual tri-twist coils on my IGO-W. Used 28G, came in around 0.24Ω if I recall correctly. I stopped using micro coils a couple of months ago, and stopped using contact coils shortly after that. I'm so satisfied with my current build that I see no need to alter it in any way. To each his own.

Vape on.

 

[glassgal]

Was wondering when the subohm kits were going to be ready, but guess at least another week or so?